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I've heard that the tranmissions in Mazdas like the 626 were not good. They have Ford powertrains I believe.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
The newer Hyundais/Kias-2005 and above are pretty good in reliability.Avoid the older ones.
1 or 2 year Hyundais/Kias are a great deal if buying used--good price with 5yr/60k mile warranty intact.
Although I expand my list a bit. I think the Focus and Saturns are decent for the money, too. And lets not forget the Chevy Prizm, which is a Corolla underneath (although I suppose that technically makes it a Japanese car).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Wait, stop, reverse that...the auto trans was a Mazda unit, not a Ford.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I think there many be a lot of fine print involved in the warranty details like the original owner being required to follow the recommended maintenance schedule at a Hyundai/Kia dealership--or else it voids the warranty.
Also, which particular Hyundai and Kia models are recommended?
A used 06-07 Hyundai Sonata is a great bargain,, a good sized sedan,good reliability and fuel economy!!
Are these costs more expensive compared to other imports or domestic cars?
And are there problems finding mechanics (other than Hyundai dealerships) who know how to fix Hyundais/Kias?
Primera, actually - a somewhat larger FWD platform, available in Europe as a Nissan. I had both an older Sentra and and a G20 (both manual), and the drives could not have been compared (G20 much nicer.)
That would likely not be it.
Do you have an age range or mileage constraints? Are any features manditory? You might be interested in anti-lock brakes, stability control systems, and various air bags to help young drivers stay out of trouble and mitigate injury should it be necessary. Does it need to be a sedan? Automatic or manual? Do you have a target fuel economy in mind? Does it snow where you live?
Nothing's going to be more reliable and provide a "European" type feel that's just right for the average driver. I't's the only car in the last 5 years or more that I drove and it reminded me of the old 1990s Volvos. Tight, controlled, and a great car to drive.
The IS250 is underpowered and pricey for what it is.
The IS350 is more of a muscle car - it doesn't have the same light on its feet feel as the older IS300.(plus is hugely expensive, even used)
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=u&car_id=262303550
Good example. Built to last 15-20 years, so 7-8 years old isn't a problem at all.
Huh. Ummmm..... huh.
Sooo... when you say "sporty" you obviously have a very different definition than me. Can you be more specific?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have a soon to be licensed driver who I may be buying for. Right now my plan is for her and I to split two cars - our Ody van and my Celica convertible. If I could find a cheap Mazda 3 or some such thing maybe I'll yield...
How about for used cars? Besides KBB, how and where would you start negotiation? It would be impossible to compare the same models because the trim level is not always disclosed.
As an example, we're trying to buy a 08 RX350 CPO starting at 31,999. To start, should I undercut this price by 3K?
If you offer 3K less than 32K for this used RX350, the salesman would set the hook and you would have paid about the same for a used vehicle as for a brand new one. The way people drive today and abuse their vehicles with jackrabbit starts and hard braking, used vehicles are only worth the risk if they are very cheap. Every used car cost the dealer something different and you have no idea what that is. Unless you are a professional negotiator by trade, you will be at a significant disadvantage. I would take 3 days minimum to negotiate for this car and would not pay more than 22-23K with the known risk of walking and allowing it to become a lot queen.
Are there no new ones around you? The incentives are listed as expiring 7/6/09 which is monday. There is no way of knowing if they will be extended. The salesmen don't know either, so the playing field is level.
In considering the advice you receive here remember that when you say "sporty" to the mostly male members of this board, they think in terms of performance and handling, not looks. So a sporty car for guys might be pug ugly to your daughter.
I must admit a bias in favor of Chryslers. They do have a lot going for them in the looks department. Reliability is as good as any domestic and in my experience somewhat cheaper to fix.. I have owned several including a Cirrus which was later re-named Sebring in the four-door version.
For 2004 you have 3 Sebring choices. The sedan which is a newer version of my Cirrus. Reliable transportation. You also have the Sebring convertible which I don't think is sporty looking but young people like those drop tops. Finally you have the Sebring coupe which I think is the most sporty looking of the three. The coupe is based on the Mitsubishi Eclipse and most of the mechanical parts are identical.
None of the Sebrings is a "sports" car but should be able to provide safe, reliable transportation with good looks. Good luck shopping and please come back and tell us how everything goes.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
For 2-doors, I'd look at the Honda Civic Coupe and Toyota Celica. Even a well-maintained 2002-2003 Acura RSX would be a very good choice.
According to the Edmunds incentives page, the $5000 marketing support - cash to dealer, went from 6/02/09 through 7/06/09. There should be no problem finding a dealer passing this savings on to the buyer. Check again in a few days to see if this continues after the 7/06 date.
Many will tell you to get a corolla or civic and i will say that those models are in too much demand to be worth the inflated used car prices. The condition is more important than the label. Have it fully checked out by a mechanic - best $50 to $100 that you will invest before getting down to negotiations. Don't fall in love with any used car for sale. I am subaru-biased, but I think a subaru impreza with the 2.2 engine only is a great used car buy. It has the AWD for safety - many kids crash in single car accidents when they lose control - so control is most important (that is why the very worst vehicle for a new driver is a small pickup truck). Look for a 99-01 Impreza with the 2.2 only. Mazda protege and Chevy Prizm (same car as the Corolla but cheaper) of same years. Even a well cared-for Chevy Lumina, saturn SL-2, Volvo 240, 740, 940 - if you have it fully checked out. If you have a regular mechanic, talk to him - some mechanics have excellent used cars for sale or can recommend one. If you don't have a regular mechanic, I have had great luck with this site (my son found a wonderful mechanic 2 miles from his college using this site:
http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/
Saturn SL1/SL2
'02- Better than average
'00-'01- Average
Ford Focus-
'02-'05- Average
Ford Taurus
'00-'03- Average
'04-'05- Above average
I went on AutoTrader.com and found at least one local example of each with under 100,000 miles on it for $4k or less!
I also found several '99-'01 Nissan Altimas for under $4k, but they had from 110,000 to 135,000 miles on them. A well-maintained Altima (even with mileage in the low-mid 100's) would be a very good choice, too!
Ideally, you'll get the most for your money buying from a private seller. The best case scenario is buying from the original owner (and they have maintenance records)! Depending on the laws of your state, you may or may not pay sales tax if you buy from an individual (we don't here in Georgia).
Before buying from a dealer or indivdiual, I highly recommend having the car checked out by an independent mechanic!!! It's well worth the $50-$75 they'll charge you to avoid buying something that needs major repairs!
I'd suggest a brief talk with your insurance agent, or in my case with his aide who is an agent herself training to take his spot when he retires. Get him through the first 6 months and 1 year without an accident.
I suggest a used Crown Victoria, Gran Marquis, Chryslery product that's full-size and not chic, or an older Olds 88, leSabre, etc. I'd include the older Malibu/Lumina, Taurus, and so on with some miles left. Low cost insurance--almost a throwaway if it does get wrecked.
The older car has something of a culture to it. The other kids don't encourage carelessness with it leading to the showing off in the sporty, loud-mufflered, flashy colored cars. Then he/she can get a different car after a year. I noticed a few non-chic cars seeming to be traded down to newer drivers at the school my son attended.
Before someone says my values aren't workable, my now 17 year-old had a 10 year old leSabre. Didn't hurt his ego a bit. Band practice during summer. School parking lot for rest of year. Now we picked up a newer smaller economy GM car that he can use along with the leSabre (a two car high schooler) and I can use the newer car (2008) when I have some longer drives).
I had kept the leSabre with this in mind. But I'd be shopping the for sale signs and local store post it boards for a similar 10-year old with 100K and more on it for that first car for $3000 and less. The older GM cars of that period are actually in demand at the low end of the buying price range for adults wanting cars with life left in them.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I'm new to this forum and purchasing used cars. I've been looking at 2004 Audi A4 & TT's, 2004-5 BMW 3 series coupes and convertibles. All seem to be in the price range but only have miles around 70K-80K.
Is it worth buying a used car with that many miles whether a "luxury" car or not?
If not, I'm also thinking buying a 06-07 VW jetta that's "pre-loved" or certified. I'm worried about the lack of a warranty on the older models I mentioned. I'd rather have peace of mind with the car rather than luxury (i think - convertibles are pretty appealing).
Are Certified pre-owned worth the extra costs? Or is buying un-certified used, getting it checked out and relying on it's good condition and AAA enough?
ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!!
THANKS!!!
Everyone will tell you that old high mile European cars are expensive to keep up and they are correct. Not only repairs but maintenance as well. If the thought of keeping up an older car is too daunting,stick with the newer CPO car.
Here is my own personal short list given the same criteria and price range(though I also want manual, which is highly recommended but YMMV of course )
- First gen CTS with the 3.6 engine.
- 2004 GTO (almost 30mpg with manual and 350hp!) *added exception - not "luxury"*
- previous generation G35 sedan (ie not the G37)
- IS300
If you add in automatics, the list grows by quite a bit. Top of my "automatic models" list would probably be the GS300 or a Buick Lucerne CXS(eerily like driving a late 90s S420, which for GM is/was a huge step forward)
The problem with the newer BMWs and most of the other luxury European brands is that they all source from Bosch and similar mostly German electrical companies. It's why a VW/Audi has a solid engine but the switches and radio and so on self-destruct at 7-10 years age almost every time. It used to be that these premium brands were really built better, but now it's all plastic and cheap underneath with a plush covering to hide the corners that were cut.
BMW and Audi are out. Mercedes is as well - too expensive to run used. Maintaining any of these three brands will cost nearly the same as a new vehicle would in monthly payments. Things get stupefyingly expensive for the most basic stuff. It makes even Toyota's overpriced insanity look reasonable. I know - I've had Mercedes in the past and it gets insane - like $60 for a shifter knob and upwards of $5K for a transmission rebuild. You really should only own these brands, even used, if you can afford them new. Or lease them and avoid the idiocy.
Which convertible would you guys recommend for me and why? how do 2004-2005 Sebring, Mustang, Eclipse, etc hold up against each other? I tried to find a side by side comparision using google, but didnt find any.
Mitsubishis are fairly rare around here (MI), and the few people I know who had them were not pleased with parts availability and prices. You may wish to ask around; they may be a good value, depending on where you are.
If you're buying an older car with the intention of keeping it, I think the Mustang is a much better choice. Fairly simple technology, any mechanic will know what to do, great parts availability.
The question there is value... I don't know how Mustang convertibles depreciate; at any rate, you picked the right time of year ;->
Good luck,
-Mathias
An '04 sebring 4-cyl will run you more like $6500-$7k.
To get your ideal '04 w/60k for $6k ... yer gonna have to look for one that is beat to hell or has a bad history.
If you are driving 12k in 2 years, that is far below average, actually. At just 6k per year, I'd be looking for something a bit nicer, maybe with higher miles. For example, off the top of my head, you might find a '98 BMW 323 vert with 75k miles for $6k-$7k. After 4 years, you are still just under 100k on it. Same goes for a '98 C70. You could try to find a low mileage '00 mustang GT and probably pick it up for around $7k.
In any case, spending $6k on a convertible and asking it to give you 6 years of no-to-low upkeep cost is a TALL order!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I just ran a search on AutoTrader for all convertibles within 100 miles of my Zip Code and I found several low mileage, very good condition examples of the following-
Toyota Solara Convertible
Volvo C70 Convertible
Saab 9-3 Convertible
Personally, I find the C70 to be most appealing and the Saab 9-3 comes in a close second. It's very ironic that the Swedes built two of the best convertibles of the last decade...I doubt they sell very many of them in Sweden (I hear it's kinda chilly).
Regardless of which model you choose, take it to a mechanic for a thorough inspection and be sure to pull a Carfax report for it. Convertibles are structurally weaker than the fixed-roof models they're based on. A good analogy is comparing a box with a lid, then without the lid and see how much easier it is to flex and twist it with the lid removed! For that reason, I would definitely avoid any convertible that has been wrecked before. The already weakened structure is almost impossible to fully and correctly repair. A good mechanic will be able to tell if it has been repaired and the Carfax will reassure you of the car's past.
Done. Nothing will work better or cost less to keep running in your price range.
Here are the percentages that said YES-
Mazda Miata- 86%
Volvo C70- 70%
Chrysler Sebring- 51%
The median/average percentage for this class of car (convertibles) is 72%. The Sebring was by far the lowest rated with barely half of the owners saying they would buy it again....which implies 49% aren't happy campers.
The reason you find more late model Sebring convertibles at dirt cheap prices than any other model is because they depreciate worse than any other car on the road! On a brand new one, at 36 months it's only expected to be worth 28% of the original price and at 60 months, just 18%. In comparison, a Mustang convertible will be worth 57% at 36 months an 44% at 60 months. I truly pity anyone who a Sebring convertible new...can you imagine buying a car with a $28k sticker price and, just one year later, it's barely worth $10k!!! But very few individuals buy a Sebring convertible brand new, the overwhelming majority are sold to rental fleets. And I can almost guarantee that the used ones you're finding are former rental cars...
I still think your safest bet in terms of mechanical reliablity, reasonable maintenance and repair costs, decent fuel economy and driving dynamics (comfortable, easy to drive, plenty of power) is the Toyota Camry Solara Convertible. I found several within 300 miles of my zip code that are in perfect condition and being sold privately by their original owners! A one-owner private party sale is always the best way to go with any kind of vehicle. If you can locate one that you like and you either have cash or can arrange a loan thru your bank or credit union, you'll get the best and most car for your money...
I found a 2002 Solara SLE conv for $8200 from a private seller in VA. It's silver, has 85k miles and the leather interior looks like it belongs in a Lexus. Just do a search on AutoTrader.com and use zip code 23602 (that's where the car is located).
I also found an identical looking (silver with gray leather) 2001 SLE conv in Florida in pristine condition. It only has 68k miles and priced at $7900. Clean Carfax history, but not sure if it's the original owner, but it is private sale.
I just went through this same search myself, but my limit was $6k. I did not find one Sebring that didn't look like it had been through a war. I couldn't locate a Mustang GT that fit the bill, nor a C70. Wound up with a '99 Saab 93 SE with 120k in very good condition for $4500.
You aren't getting much feedback on the Eclipse because most folks don't know anything about them. They are rather unpopular cars.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Sebring for the price because they depreciate quickly. Roomy for a convertible. Eclipse for reliability and not too bad performance. 2005 Mustang V-8 for performance and looks (forget the V-6) 2004 Mustangs and earlier were built on an obsolete 1970's frame and are less desirable.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Basically it's a Camry and a Corolla - Convertible. And as reliable as a normal Toyota. Oh, FYI - my last Toyota I finally sold a few weeks ago with 375K on it. And it still ran just fine. Anything else will just simply cost you a LOT more to fix and maintain.
The MR2 also qualifies, but it's dangerously small and underpowered, IMO. The MX5 also has this problem - I just can't physically fit in the seats and it's asking to get punked in a crash. Yes, it's a blast to drive, but tiny is no good these days, especially when slightly larger convertibles and roadsters work almost as well but might save your life in a crash.
Note - if you had 10-12K, I'd recommend a 1996 Corvette. It's a world better than most of the competition and is a serious deal for the money. The LT1 engine is about as bulletproof as it gets and repairs are pretty reasonable as long as the car isn't used up and worn out.(note - most are - shop carefully)
Why get this specific year? It's the last year of the fourth generation run and isn't as flashy as the new models. It's a good "sleeper" option and is under-appreciated. The replacement model didn't have a convertible option until 1998, and it's still 15K for a good example.
http://www.kenora.net/kenoracorvettes/1996convert.jpg
Not too bad looking, actually. Even better in black.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=282131262
A typical private party example.
http://www.corvettephotographs.com/article_why_c4_great_buy.html
Don't take my word on it, either. This is a solid choice and has a soon to be "classic" look as the new models keep getting more and more like a giant jellybean.
However, when I checked online and craigs for sale, the only Solora or Celica convertibles close to 8k with less than 80k miles were 95-99 models. Anything that was 2000+ had either 95k+ miles or had accidents on its carfax. Eclipses on the other hand were ranged 6.7-8k for 2000+ models with less than 75k miles. I do need a FWD for the snow and do not want to buy a seperate winter car. Hence the focus on these cars. Have found hardly any other FWD convertible in this area.
I do want to buy the Toyota due to the good reviews for its dependablity, but the extra 2.5-3k is confusing me a bit since the Eclipse doesnt seem to have bad reviews by itself and even had good reviews in some places. Hopefully, some research or a good car selling in my area will resolve this.
Used Toyotas and Hondas go for way too much in my opinion. Look up reviews of the Eclipse on Motor Trend's website. They reviewed the latest generation in a long term test and had ZERO problems after 40K miles and the car was faster and handled better at the end than when new. Toyotas may or may not be better cars but you're going to pay plenty for the PERCEPTION that they are.
As for all the Sebring bashing going on, I owned the sedan version of that car which I bought used and got well over 100K miles with minimal repairs before I sold it.
Have a mechanic check any car you plan on buying and then make your own decision based on the cost-benefit TO YOU.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
The sticky wicket here is that the "Sebring" sedan was, at least at one time, a thinly disguised Mitsubishi, and the "Sebring" convertible was a Stratus with a softtop. A totally different car, totally a Chrysler, and not very good.
Maybe that's no longer true for the more recent ones, but that's what I remember from ~ 10 years ago.
FWIW, the Solara ragtop is waaay too flexy according to the reviews I've read. Plus the Solara sedan it's based on is one of the boringest cars out there .. but at the same time a great road trip car because it's solid and quiet... my guess is you're giving up the coupe's main strengths to get the convertible.
The Eclipse is starting to sound better all the time.
Cheers -Mathias
This is *exactly* the model that you want to be looking at - the 98-99 ones. They stopped making convertible Celicas after that and the Solara is basically a convertible sedan(nothing special)
Though, I'd still save a bit more and get the 96 Corvette(last year of that style). The LT1 engine is really close to bulletproof and yes, purists go on about how they hate the automatics, but it's really easy to find a mint condition one with Automatic for a very reasonable price. 300+HP and automatic is still a shockingly fast ride.