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Subaru Forester

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  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That's a decent price. We charge around $315 for a 30k/60k which includes:
    Oil Change
    Coolant Drain/fill
    Brake Flush
    Fuel Filter (if it's not in the tank)
    air filter
    Trans/Diffy/Rear Diffy Fluid change
    Various checks

    We charge about $65 more for Synthetic fluids
    We charge about $90 more for plugs

    -mike
  • brainlessbozobrainlessbozo Member Posts: 36
    Thanks. But I'm a little confused now. :confuse: Upon inquiry, I was told that the automatic transmission filter and the differential (front/rear) fluid are all "non-serviceable". I guess that means its not to be changed unless something is the matter(and too late?).

    I plan to buy the tune-up kit from subaruparts.com (sp-plugs, air-oil-fuel filters) and PCV valve, and go to someone nearby, that has worked on Subies. The website mentions that the PCV valve needs to be changed only if needed. So, unlikely, I'm going to go to the dealer to do stuff I don't need.

    Any further thoughts?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    The differential fluid is definitely serviceable and should be serviced regularly! It might be worth the effort to run from that shop! ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yup ATF should be changed every 20k-30k, Diffys should be done at 30k or 60k but definitely at 60k min.

    -mike
  • brainlessbozobrainlessbozo Member Posts: 36
    Any thoughts on the PCV valve? What exactly does that do, and how often does it need to be changed? Also, I got a heck of a deal ($29.99) on 5 quarts M1 5W30 + Mobil 1 premium oil filter. Its a 98% high efficiency filter, whatever that means, with a bypass valve, and that's supposed to help in cold starts. Anyone ever used M1 oil filters?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You can test the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve.

    Remove it, and it should let air travel in one direction, but not the other. It either works or it doesn't, pass/fail style.

    If it's clean at 30k, you should be fine, but I'd change it at 60k regardless.

    I'm with mike on the diff fluid intervals.

    My Miata, at just 30k miles, had what looked like melted chocolate in there when I drained it. It was nasty, clowdy and brown. It was 8 years old, so I'm sure it was age.

    My Forester wasn't that bad at 60k miles, but it was a lot less than 8 years at the time.

    Don't wait 8 years, no matter the mileage.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Mike, the poster had one more question regarding AT filter. Do you know about that? I know that in the pre-99 cars, it was an internal filter which required removal of the pan, but in '99 it was moved to an external location. Did it stay that way? Is this a regular service item?

    I think my Haynes book, while it did outline the procedure for removing the filter, never indicated that it should be replaced on a regular interval. I changed the fluid in the car several times, but I never replaced the filter. 220K miles, no problems with the transmission.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd change the spin-off filter on the ATF as well. I would NOT have the AT flushed though, just a drain/fill which only gets out 1/3 the fluid but that's why I recommend it every 20k miles.

    -mike
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    I just had my XT in for a 30K service at a local independent. Did suggested maintenance as in the book, except for fuel filter. If I'm following, you recommend an AT drain/fill and filter, and both diffs at 30 as well?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It's cheap preventive maintenance for the diffys and the AT.

    -mike
  • kaaterskillkaaterskill Member Posts: 2
    Hello all - my first posting on this board - from what I've read through in the past everyone seems really helpful... so thanks in advance for any advice you can give.

    So I'm considering taking a kayaking trip in the Adirondacks and one of the access points requires a fairly substantial stream crossing (outlet from a lake actually). What is the maximum water depth I should consider driving through to avoid damaging the car (engine). The water level fluctuates but it's at least a couple feet deep - maybe around 3 ft. at high water; last year I went through with a friend who had a Honda Element and it made the crossing several times without a problem.

    Does Subaru actually specify a maximum depth for the car ?
  • tifightertifighter Member Posts: 3,604
    Fording depth on a Humvee (military H1) is 2.5ft without a deep water kit, so no, I would not cross 3ft of water in a Forester. Or an Element. Are we talking about a true 3 feet here?

    23 Civic Type-R / 22 MDX Type-S / 21 Tesla Y LR / 03 Montero Ltd

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If the element made it you can make it too.

    3ft is highly unlikely though.

    Where in the Adirondacks are you going? I have a place up there.

    Also if you do it, get a K&N Filter, I've used them in all my offroad vehicles and they are real good at preventing water/mud intrusion from such crossings.

    -mike
  • brainlessbozobrainlessbozo Member Posts: 36
    So, I found a place in Cincinnati that will charge me $322+tax for:
    Oil & filter (which is all I'll provide)
    Fuel filter
    Automatic transmission fluid service
    Change F+R differential fluids
    Brake fluid flush
    Air filter
    Coolant Flush

    Its amazing how much prices vary between service locations. Joseph Subaru in Florence, KY, charges about $55-60 to install a cabin filter (parts+labor), while Beechmont Subaru in Cincinnati (28 miles away) charges $90! I think I found a good independant guy. He also deals in Nokians. I plan to replace my worn Falkens with the Nokian WR, and not worry about changing tires in winter.

    Thanks for all you guys' help. Any one ever used the WRs on their Subies?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Clearance is about 3" more than the Element, but 3' in either one sounds risky.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Risky! The Subaru's intake would definitely be submerged at 3'. Even 2' is taking quite a chance, but is it a real 2', or estimated 2'? People tend to estimate deep (which is not a bad thing, actually!).

    Either way, it is definitely worth checking/replacing fluids after the trip to ensure no water is hanging out in differentials, etc.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'll have to find the pics of Juice taking his Forester through a water crossing in the pine barrens years ago. Good fun!

    -mike
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    I would love to see it. Every time I do something "fun" in my Subaru, there is no camera to be found.

    I am a "too bad I did not get a photo of that!" kind of person.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    This was fun, indeed, but fact is this wasn't even a foot deep, I suspect.

    Any how, here's that pic....

    lark6 has the black one, mine's the green one.
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    Youtube offers nothing very deep:
    Brat water crossing

    old school subie (must be over 2 ft in spots)

    Outback Sport crossing the (pretty shallow) Sandy River

    WRX water crossing

    and just for fun:
    Forester crossing a log
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    Here's one more. I posted this before (a long time ago). This vehicle is currently listed in the Seattle ares Craigslist for $3600. :P

    modified subie GL wagon river crossing

    Craigslist
  • kaaterskillkaaterskill Member Posts: 2
    Thanks everyone for the replies - I was definitely doing an estimate on the water depth but I realistically would say last year when we went through it was probably very close to 2 ft deep; I'm judging that based partly on wading into it and also the by the way the Element pushed the bulk of the water rather than spraying thru it as would happen if it wasn't particularly deep - it resulted in kind of a tsunami effect where it piled the water up toward the far shore...

    Anyways - I'll now be able to judge better whether to risk driving through there or just leave the car on one side and portage the kayaks in...

    BTW the location in the Adirondacks is called Chaney Pond and it's a great spot north of Lake George to do some kayak / canoe camping...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm sure rainfall and other issues will affect just how deep it really is. Just be careful and go with someone that has a tow strap, just in case! :shades:
  • acleme2acleme2 Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone. Thanks for reading my post. I'll get right to it. I recently purchased a 2001 Subaru Forester L. It has a manual transmission, and 88,000 miles. It is my first Subaru, and I am very excited. The car has been well cared for and the previous owners kept meticulous records.

    After driving it for a few days, I began to notice several things that could be potential problems. I had a Subaru dealership check it out (they did the basic $70 used car 1,200,063 point check). It got a clean bill of health except that it has a small leak in a valve cover that is leaking into the plug chamber (i hope i got that right). He said tht it was not something I needed to worry about right away, but something I would want to get fixed in the future - and then he sent me on my way.

    I will now list out the other things that I think could potentially be wrong. Any insight into these problems would be very much appreciated. Here goes:

    1. The rear brakes are squeeling when coming to a stop at low speeds. It's a high-pitch squeel, and only when I come to a stop. Wouldn't the dealer have seen poor brakes when inspecting? Any ideas?

    2. The rear-end jumps and shakes the car when I let-off the clutch in first gear? The car bounces, and I have to re-engage the clutch and let it out slower. Is this an AWD thing (I have never owned an AWD before), or is it something I should be concerned about?

    3. The clutch feels like it might be slipping. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd, or from 3rd to 4th, there is a delay from when I let off the clutch, and when the gear catches. I let off the clutch, and then there is a 1-3 second delay, and then the gear catches (you can feel it and hear it).

    4. Puff of blue smoke when starting in the morning. I believe this could be from the oil leaking into the plug chamber. After first startup, the exhaust looks and smells very clean.

    So sorry for the incredibly long email. I'm just worried that our new (to us) Subaru might have some issues. I need to figure this out before it is too late to go back to the seller with the problems. Thanks so anyone who can help me out with this.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would probably go ahead and have someone change the valve cover gasket, it's not that hard. You do not have to drop the engine like some myths would have you believe.

    The rear brakes are drums, so it's probably just collecting some dust inside and causing the squeeking. I would spary in some brake parts cleaner and see if that helps. While you're down there go ahead and spray some lithium grease on the sway bar links.

    The rear-end jump is probably caused by a bad wheel bearing. Have those inspected. Up until MY2003 that was a common occurence.

    Good news is I don't think any of those issues are very serious. Enjoy your Forester.
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    I have a 2001 Forester S, purchased new, which currently has 168K miles. The leak around the spark plug is common with these engines. I've found that I've needed to change these gaskets (a rubber o-ring, actually) every other spark plug change, or 60K miles. The shaking sounds like the clutch "judder" problem, which affected several years, including 2001. This would be most noticeable upon a cold start, and more noticeable in damp weather. The fix for this is to replace the entire clutch assembly. Subaru has some newly designed parts, which eliminated the "judder" problem. Some other common problems include defective rear wheel bearings and a leaking head gasket (the number 4 cylinder...check under the car for leaking below the driver's side rear cylinder).

    My Forester has experienced all of the above issues, and a few more. Despite these problems, all of which have since been repaired, I really love my car, and would probably buy a new Forester again. Best of luck with yours.

    Len
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    At 88k miles you may be due for a clutch.

    As for the jumping in 1st gear, it's common that 1st gear really can't be used on a subaru while moving. You can use it to start out but you can't go back into 1st until stopped.

    Smoke is probably from the valve cover gasket leak.

    -mike
  • brainlessbozobrainlessbozo Member Posts: 36
    I must say, you guys are a splendid resourse. Thanks for all your suggestions/pointers.

    Finally got new air, fuel and oil filters and the fluids changed (transmission, diffs, brake, coolant, oil). Since the Falkens were worn down to the wear-bars, I finally got the Nokian WRs for $136 each (balanced, mounted, alligned, tire-disposal, free lifetime balancing & rotations). After those Falkens came off, it was like driving a new car.... where was all that road noise? These Nokians are quiet... The car rides smooth. Now I'll sell my Blizzaks, and save the yearly switching expenses.

    The total for all but the tires was about $365, taxes included. I only provided the oil & filter.

    By the way, should I always stay with 5W30? I hear people with higher milage going to 10W30. That's not what the manual states. I plan to stay with Mobil 1, and aim to run this car into the ground. If the change is advised, at what milage can this change take place?

    BB

    PS: 4-Blizzaks WS50 215/60/16 for sale!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If anything I'd run 0w30 in the winter. 10w30 will yield worse milage and generally isn't suggested.

    Mobile 1 is ok, but I'd suggest going to Amsoil or Redline as they have a better synthetic than M1.

    -mike
  • cgrocho47cgrocho47 Member Posts: 12
    Tire replacement time... I'm thinking of replacing the stock Geolandars (blech) to some 225/55s on the stock 16" wheels on my XT (2006). Anyone know if there's enough wheel well clearance to do this safely? Also, anyone have any opinions on the Conti Extreme Contact? Tirerack seems to like them.

    Thanks, Chuck
  • kavoomkavoom Member Posts: 181
    >>Anyone know if there's enough wheel well clearance to do this safely?<<

    You can put your head in there if you want. They put 17 inchers on the XT's so you shouldn't have any problem. SubaruForester.org has every question you might have answered...
  • brainlessbozobrainlessbozo Member Posts: 36
    Thanks for the tip. I'm going to look for one of those here in Cincy, OH. I was in South Dakota, and never had an issue with M1 5W30 even in the heart of sub-zero winters. Always had good, smooth starts. Oil analyses were consistently good, without any sign of engine wear or break-down. Oil changes were twice/year in Spring/Fall, and averaging about 7500 miles per change.

    Maybe, as the engine ages, I'll try the Redline/Amsoil. I plan to change filters every 3.5K miles, and change oil every 7K.
  • brainlessbozobrainlessbozo Member Posts: 36
    Why are you planning to change the size? I wanted to do the same thing, but the feel I got from this forum was there is an argument for and against both options. I did not want to change the full-size spare, so I elected to go with the stock size of 215/60-16. I went with Falkens (512s) 3 years ago. After those wore out, I went with Nokian WRs in the stock size (2 weeks ago). I had forgotten how much fun the car could be, and how quiet it could get. There previous deafening road-noise is history. Just amazing. And the traction is nothing to scoff at. I haven't noticed any drop in milage. I keep the pressures at 38 psi.

    Other than Nokians, there are the Michelin Exaltos and Bridgestone Potenza G009s to choose from. Hope this helps.
  • kavoomkavoom Member Posts: 181
    Subaru Forester.org has a thread re rumor 09 that may have pics of the new 09. It is from a Japanese magazine...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'll go check it out, but note that the Japanese magazines tend to be WAY off when it comes to predicting what the final cars will look like. Look at the sketches for the Impreza and STI recently.
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Interesting. It may be a photochop, but I like the look. Hope they bring the diesel over with the 09.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I wonder if we saw the same image.

    Gold one, with a sagging front end?

    Looks like a Forester with an Outback nose that melted slightly.

    I found it hideous and I'm praying it's not accurate.
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Front end looks odd, but I liked the sides. No more strange creases. I'm guessing the real thing will look much cleaner. Given the more generic look of the new Tribecca, my guess is Subaru will stick to a pretty conservative design.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,790
    Cannot seem to find it.... anyone willing to just post the image? :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Page 14 of this thread.

    http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=242881&postcount=206

    http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=7829&d=11884- - 29087
  • cgrocho47cgrocho47 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the tire recommendations. The reason to go to 55s that are a little wider would be for a larger contact patch, and less sidewall. My thinking is that this will improve handling while remaining very close to the original tire circumference. Also, the 06 spare is a donut, so that's not a consideration...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's very grainy and clearly a sketch. At best the person who penned it has seen a photo of the real thing.

    The smooth sides are OK, I suppose, but I'd be worried about door dings. Creases add strength.

    Where's the cladding? It's too slab-sided.

    It really does look like they took an old one, a 98-01 model at that, and grafted an Outback-like front end. The drop in the headlights look weird, though I like a similar design on the GMC Acadia, so if executed properly that could look good.

    In the same thread people discuss the Forester as a downsized Tribeca rather than an upsized Impreza. I have mixed feelings about that. The Forester might get too heavy and expensive. Plus it will cannibalize the Tribeca.

    They really have to make the Tribeca bigger for the next generation to differentiate it more. If the Forester grows much it'll basically be the same size (like the RAV4 and Highlander were for a while).
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Only bad thing about creased door panels is that if you get a ding you rarely can do paintless door repair on it. A smooth one can be repaired easier.

    -mike
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    Where's the cladding?

    Sadly, there is little point of cladding any longer, since (I believe) they have done away with the unpainted cladding on the Forester.

    What is the point of painted cladding? There is some dent resistance, no doubt, but you will still get chips and more visible scratches than the unpainted cladding would suffer.

    I guess it's all part of the perpetual "upscale" mania that auto manufactures suffer. Dag-nabbit, give me "Inexpensive and built to stay that way" or in Honda-speak, "We make it simple"... or was that Burger King? :P

    crotchety old-timer, james ;)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm sure there are plenty of used cars out there that will fit your bill. :)

    -mike
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Well, I bought a used 05 specifically for the unpainted cladding. Also don't like the 06+ front end. Would of made more financial sense to go with a new one.

    Here's hoping they offer a diesel model with unpainted cladding and steel wheels for 09.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Don't count on it. Maybe Steel Wheels but the other 2 I highly doubt. I don't think we'll see a diesel here til 2010 or even later.

    -mike
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    Geez! Steel wheels?! A man after my own heart. I must admit that (many) alloys are attractive, but on most cars they are just silly. They put "mags" on minivans for crizsakes.

    Steel wheels, with hubcaps are cheaper, WAY easier to clean, and in many cases, lighter than alloys. I must confess that I did put 16" aluminum wheels on my pickup, but I'm considering going back to the smaller steel stockers with my next tire replacement.

    james
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    However they are significantly heavier, which brings down gas milage and reduces handling. Same reason why they used AL in the hoods and roofs of a lot of cars.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hey now, my van has alloys, but they serve two functions: less unsprung weight, and no flimsy wheel cover to break off and get lost. Looks are just a bonus.

    Still, Subaru has been changing directions lately. 2 years ago we kept hearing the word "Premium" which annoyed me to no end.

    Since then, we've seen the arrival of the Outback Basic, with steel wheels. The Forester has always been slotted slightly beneath the Outback in the lineup.

    So all signs are for the 2009 Forester base model to get a similar de-contented model. On that one steel wheels and unpainted bumpers (and or cladding) would make sense.

    I'm not sure what to think of a baby Tribeca style Forester. Sure, it would be nice, but the Forester sells well now and I really think pricing it higher will backfire.
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