GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

weels · June 2005

HUH?

dsessoms · June 2005

I recently hit the ditch trying to miss a deer. The steering column in my truck now moves up and down. Being a do-it-yourself type person I took apart the dash to see what is broken or has came alose. There is a bracket on the column that has to V-shaped hooks that to triangle shape pieces hook into and the column then bolts to this. But I can not seem to get the column to come up enough to line this back up. Is there sometype of adjustment bolts somewhere I cant see or dont know about. Please help

mgomaize · June 2005

Hello,

First post here. I have browsed the achives and have found a dizzying array of posts that seem somewhat related. I am hoping I can get some direct advice. I have a 99 GMC Sierra 5.3L Ext. Cab 4x4 that has developed what I would call a shudder that you can feel and hear, and especially feel in the pedal. It mainly happens acceleration in the 55-75 MPH range, sometimes lower. It is a bit out of alignment which I intend to take care of this week. I am hoping I can get a diagnosis on the shudder so I can decide if I can hadle it or so I can point a mechanic in the right direction.

Thanks,

Tony

weels · June 2005

Our 98 tahoe did that and I eventually changed the rear u-joint out. The original really didn't look bad and I wasn't able to get any play in it by trying to move it by hand, but (knock on wood) after I swapped it out it's been good. I grease it every time I change the oil and right before any big road trips.
-Good luck. - Tim

canamguy · June 2005

The ground wire didnt solve the problem. Were having 90+ weather with humidity and its back to not starting when it sitts for more than 4 hours. I had it in to a GM dealer, at the time the truck wasnt acting up so their best guess was the fuel pump relay. Not sure what the fuel pump relay has to do with it, but I put a new one in, didnt fix the problem. Any ideas anyone? :confuse:

hockeydawg · June 2005

I posted a message on the same problems about a month or so ago and haven't gotten any responses. Let me know if you find anything out.

1) My noise occurs mostly at low speeds or low rpms in each gear. But I took everything loose out of the truck and checked for loose parts to rule out just a vibration. Still haven't isolated it. The dealer didn't know and was hesitant to start tearing things apart without a direction to go in cause the bill might grow big.

2) I looked up a few things on the internet about replacing the digital readout, but I'd have to tear it apart myself and send it in. They could have it replaced in less than a week. This is from an aftermarket installer..

Thanks.

97trk · June 2005

My truck does not have hydroboost power brakes. It has a normal vacuum booster so the power steering fluid level has nothing to do with the brakes.

mruss · July 2005

after driving it seems like any distance, and walking away from my truck i'm beginning to hear a noise almost like a pressurized gas tank popping. i've only got about 50,000kms on it and i haven't heard this noise before...anyone else heard this?. i'm going into the dealership in about another 3,000kms for service and would like to address this with them...

jerrymcshane1 · July 2005

What's the difference between the 4.1 axle vs. the standard one found on a Sierra 1500 SLT 4WD extended truck? THANKS.

dcraig · July 2005

Bought a 99 GMC 1500 today, it's started making a constant beeping noise whenever the truck is moving - in forward or reverse. (like the dinging noise it makes when the doors open ect. There are no warning lights on, and it has plenty of gas. The noise stops as soon as the truck comes to a stop. But as long as it's moving, it's beeping.

Please help!!

iltski · July 2005

Hi, I just bought a 2002 GMC Sieraa 1500 4x4 that often produces a drive train clunk/clang when accelerating from a complete stop. I assume that the transfer case has a worn or stretched chain. Did you determine what caused or is causing your problem?
Mike

iltski · July 2005

Had a similar problem with a 2000 Astro (4.3) as some days it would start and other days it would not. After replacing various electrical parts including the coil and checking the fuel pressure (was OK) I changed the distributor rotor and also cleaned the cap then sprayed both the inside and outside of the cap with silicone and the starting problem was gone.

gmctruck · July 2005

Make sure the emergency brake pedal is fully released. If you drive the truck with the "E" brake on, it will beep. Your "E" brake pedal might not be pressed down enough to turn on the brake light, but it could be pressed down enough to where the computer thinks the "E" brake is on. That's all I can think of that would cause a beep while moving. I also have a '99 1500. The only time I've ever heard a beep while moving is when I had forgot to release the "E" brake.

gmctruck · July 2005

This is a very common trait with the GM NBS trucks. There are several things that can cause this. Your truck should already have the newer nickel plated yoke which was one fix. But sometimes the driveshaft had to be removed to grease the splines. In some cases, that was a short term fix and the clunk returned. Do a google search and you should have no problems finding lots of information. I thought GM would have fixed the clunk by now, but I guess not. My '99 does it too, but only under certain conditions. :sick:

duramax1 · July 2005

duramax1 · July 2005

The truck is only 6 days old and already my fuel gauge reads MT when the tank is full. The low fuel light is on also. I know it is on warranty but I don't have time to bring the truck into the dealer. Does anyone have a known fix for this problem that I can do???

gmctruck · July 2005

Take it back and tell them you need a loaner while your new truck is being repaired. How much time does it take to drive to the dealer compared to the time you will spend trying to fix it yourself. They might have to drop the fuel tank... do you have time to do that yourself? Take it back and let it be the dealers problem. You paid for the warranty... use it!

rickytbone1 · July 2005

my 2004 sierra does it to.had it fixed at dealer (replaced some internal module)but it happened again last week.GOING BACK TO DEALER AGAthe clunking they say is normal.I DONT THINK SO!!!!
My personal mech.says its something to do with the tranny or drive train

duramax1 · July 2005

Thank you for the info. I will make an appointment and get the gauge checked out by the dealer.

mike157 · July 2005

Same problem here. 2001 GMC 2500HD w/8.1L engine, 65,000 miles and the transfer case is leaking. It is at dealer now. They state that a spring broke and bored a hole in the case. I have the extended warranty, but they had to call the "insurance Adjuster" ? to grant the claim. Will let you know what happens if you are interested. The truck has never been abused, and serviced per factory specs.

lee23 · July 2005

My '99 GMC Sierra's air conditioner and passenger side window will stop operating sometimes. It seems to be induced by a bump in the road, or if I just go to turn it on it won't work right away. and then a ways down the road it will finally start working again. Please help!

gmctruck · July 2005

Check for loose or bad ground wire connections. The AC and windows should be on different circuits, so a bad ground connection is one of the few things that could affect both at the same time. Loose ground wires are a common problem on GM vehicles. I can't tell you where they are located for sure, but look around on the back of the firewall. Your "bump in the road" description would indicate a bad or loose connection some where. I also have a '99 Sierra, but have not seen this problem on mine... (knock on wood).

boozer · July 2005

Ihave the simular problem whit my 2003 sierra but it pulls to the left makes it difficult to keep strait especialy in windy days ...or/ and at hyw speed. brought it to the dealership numberous times to have them tell me that they cant duplicate the problem. one dealership did noticed it and couldn`t find a fix...then told me that it was normal caracteristic of the truck. wow hein! gm sells trucks that swerve all over the road...and to think that they say that there professional grade.
since new it has had problems on just about every powertrain components,change some part in the transmission. later changed the transmission; had to fight for this to happen until itgot to the point that the transmission would slip when engaging the passing guear. And even at that point they were checking for abuse of any kind just to try to make me pay the bill.
diff was worked on,tranfercase, 4x4 modual, drive shaft,brakes, brake booster, steering shaft,reprogram the computer x number of times and still today it drives like a geman tank. what a :lemon: what i noticed was that everytime they reprogram the transmission it drove like on a cloud...whit no pull.
I think from my experiance that gm has computer problems (some glitch in the computer) becouse the shifting problem or the pull goes away sometimes after turning the key off and starting it again as I`m driving in nutral :sick:

onefbi · July 2005

I have a 1999 Z71 1500 5.3 engine. I have problems starting it, usually taking 2 or 3 times to start and trouble shifting gears. However I took the pressure regulator off and put it back on and the truck ran O.K. for a little while.
Has anyone had these problems?? :sick:

rickytbone1 · July 2005

:mad: just got my truck back after 3 days in shop.yep NOTHING GOT FIXED.FREAKING GM DEALER.THEY REPLACED TRNSFER CASE MODULE
MADE IT WORSE(NICE JOB).CLUNKING, THEY COULDN'T HEAR(SHOCKER).ITS THERE TRUST ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
KNOCKING IN MOTOR WHEN COLD, NORMAL THEY SAID.
I SHOWED TSB(TECH. SERVICE BULLITEN)TO THEM, STILL DIDNT FIX THE PROBLEM.(OIL SCREEN O-RING IS BAD)
SO MUCH FOR PROFESS. GRADE TRUCKS I THINK THERE GRADE SOULD BE AN FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF. :mad:

gmctruck · July 2005

"I was wondering if anyone has heard a gurgling sound/ rattle coming from the dash area(passenger side more). It only occurs when truck is under load in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear, you don't hear it in overdrive."

If the sound is coming from the center area of the dash, you might have an air pocket in the heater core. You can easily fix this by doing a "purge" procedure on the cooling system and the gurgling sound should go away. I have a '99 Sierra and this procedure worked for me. I just copied this from another forum and take no credit or responsibility for it's content or creation. The procedure does work if the gurgling noise is coming from the heater core.

Here ya go:

Get a jug of DEXCOOL (Havoline brand is GM approved).
Park on level ground.

The engine needs to be cool, or just slightly warm is fine too.

Add fluid in the surge tank until the level is slightly above the split line on the tank (an inch or so).

Put cap back on loosely, don't allow it to build pressure.

Start engine and let it idle for a minute.

Then, cycle the engine from idle to 3000rpm in 30 second intervals until the engine coolant reaches operating temp and the thermostat opens.

Shut off engine and remove the cap.

Start engine and let it idle for a minute. Fill the tank to 1/2 inch above the "Cold Full" mark on the tank & put cap back on loosely.

Cycle the engine like before and wait for the thermostat to open again, then shut off the engine.

Put more fluid in if necessary, the fluid should be a half-inch or so above the Cold Full mark.

gmctruck · July 2005

Sorry to hear you're still having problems. The best advice I can give you is to call GM Customer Assistance and open a case file. This is important because it creates a formal record regarding your complaint which may be critical if you exercise your rights under the lemon laws of your state. GM Customer Assistance will also work with you and the dealer to help resolve the problems. You can go to another dealer... all service departments are not created equal. Some service departments get offensive when you pull out a TSB because they feel as if you're telling them how to do their job. Other service departments appreciate it when you show them a TSB because they don't have to spend time looking up the TSB information and it saves them diagnostic time. I've had both experiences!!

After going to three different dealers, I found one that took care of all the problems my truck had in one visit without giving me any hassle or run-around. Guess which dealer gets my service business now? I know that all brands have their share of crappy dealer service departments, but I think this is one problem area that GM has failed to address that turns people away from buying GM products. All brands have their share of problems, but the actions taken by the manufacturer and the dealers to resolve those problems is what makes a difference. They can't just say "it's normal" and send you on your way. Make them show you a brand new truck on the lot with the same noise if it's "normal". If you were out of warranty, I'll bet they would find something wrong to generate service revenue and get money out of your pockets. Try another dealer if you're not happy with your current one. :lemon: Don't give up because that's what the "stealer" wants you to do!

ssdpturner · July 2005

Has anyone had problems with the transfer case starting to leak? I just bought my 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4X4 a few months ago. It had 52530 miles on it. I got a 3 year/36000 mile warranty with it when I bought it. Anyways, has anyone had problems with the transfer case at all and does anyone know if a the GM Warranty would cover this?

gmctruck · July 2005

I have heard of some leaks caused by a bad seal, Since the transfer case is part of the drive train, I would imagine that the warranty would cover it. But those warranties have all kinds of fine print these days, so it's hard to say for sure. If there are any signs of past abuse by the PO, you could get stuck, but I doubt it since you haven't had the truck for very long.

ssdpturner · July 2005

One more question to my problem......When I go to 4HI or 4LO, it acts funny, but as long as I am in 2HI, it seems to drive alright. Is it safe to still drive as long as I stay in 2HI? If you have not noticed, I don't know to much about engines other than minor troubleshooting and minor maintenance, i.e. changing oil, alternators, coolant.

noobie1 · July 2005

Your right on about GM and their lack of support. A lot dealers have learned how to work the company: charging the company for fixes that don't fix the problem. Instead of spending time analyzing it through the methods spelled out in the manuals they'll change out parts hoping for success. When that fails then it's "normal". I've had that happen. Afterward, I showed the service writer a TSB relevant to the problem who, in my presence, threw it in the trash without reading it! I haven't been back. GM surely knows about all this and presumably because of a bottom line mentality in the board room does nothing. If it weren't for all the wonderful, dedicated people working there I'd say they deserve to go belly up.

-BTW: I still love my truck.

-David

j_appleseed · July 2005

Hi, I drive a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500, 4.8L, automatic with 57,500 miles on it. I bought it used with about 21000 miles on it. Everything is stock except for the muffler (Magnaflow, single 3 inch entry and single 3 inch exit) and the air filter (K&N). My supposed problem is this, while I'm driving there's a fluttering/slight knocking noise coming from the engine. It is most audible when I go to accelerate uphill in fourth gear/overdrive, before the transmission downshifts. For example, the cruise control is set to 75 mph and rpm's at about 2000 to 2100, I'm approaching a hill, nothing terribly steep, beginning at the base, when the computer senses the truck slowing down due to the oncoming incline and starts to counteract it by pulling on the throttle cable, you can hear a fluttering noise from the engine. But when I place the transmission in neutral while driving at about 65 mph on a flat surface and revving the engine up to about 4500-5000 rpm you don't hear it. A friend of mine has a Chevy of the same design (1500, 4.8L, etc.) with an aftermarket muffler, headers, and air filter and he has the same problem. He thinks it's because of a loss of back pressure on the exhaust valves and it's making them flutter. After looking through a Haynes repair manual, I suspect maybe one or more bad spark plugs, or a vacuum leak. Thanks for reading my novel, lol. Any advice is very appreciated.

obyone · July 2005

Try manually shifting it to "3" and no flutter.

For the 99-02 there is a transmission program update that will downshift a little "quicker" to avoid the flutter or lugging.

j_appleseed · July 2005

Thanks for the reply. My friend suggested the same thing. If you have any more info on that transmission program update, where to get it, how much $, etc., I'd be glad to hear it. I did a Google search, but found nothing really useful. Thanks again.

obyone · July 2005

The update was performed over three years ago when the truck was still under warranty. There wasn't any particular TSB associated with it at the time.

I would think that your friendly GMC dealer service department might be able to help you out.

giant44s · July 2005

clean the ground strap terminal(body to frame) on the drivers side. if this wont cure the fuel level problem you will need a new cluster

mdnow · July 2005

I have a 2004 sierra 5.3l which stalls out. started at 50,000 miles. when slowing down it stalls. Have had diagnostic test run and nothing until service engine soon light came on and they stated misfire, nothing else. I am at a lost myself.

gdhgmc95 · July 2005

My a/c works, but will not blow through the vent that aims at face level.It makes noise,and blows through the side window defrost vents on the sides of the dash. The window defrost and the floor all blow cold air, but again when the switch is on the face level vents, it only makes a strong blowing noise. It's almost like something is not opening up in order to let the air flow through the vents. I know it's not the switch because I bought a new one, and have tried both back and forth.

Thank's

jay84 · July 2005

Recently my 84 GMC Jimmy started having a serious starting problem. A few months back it started dying while I was driving it down the road. It would sit for 10-15 minutes and then it would start fine and run for a week or so before doing it again. Then the problem began to become more frequent and it would take longer to start. At times if I jumped up and tapped the distributor it would fire right up. Eventually it got to where I had to have it towed back home and it would sit over night and then fire right up. So I changed the ignition control module and it fixed the problem for a few weeks and then the same symptoms came back. 4 ignition control modules later and I was still having the same problem. My buddy is an electrician and tested for grounding problems; none to be found. We came to the conclusion that the computer that controlled the ignition control module was bad so I replaced the distributor with an older self contained HEI distributor out of a 78 malibu. The truck started and ran great for a week and then the same symptoms started happening. I replaced the coil and the ignition control module aging last night and the truck started right up. I have been through a total of 2 caps, 2 rotors, 5 ICM's, 3 coils 2, distributors and im still having the same problems. My trucks is grounded from the block to the body, the body to the chassis, and from the negative on the battery to the body. Before I burn up another ignition control module does anyone have any ideas? Could it be my voltage regulator or alternator?

mbat · August 2005

In response to the 2004 with the 5.3L engine:
I have a 2000 GMC with the same motor. It started to get difficult to start and wanted to stall when I came to a stop. Solution was a part called a Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve. As you open the hood the part is on the right side of the motor towards the back. There is a small vacuum tube coming off of this part (the whole part is about the size of a buckeye). When the truck is off pull the tube off. If fuel runs out its bad. What happens is the motor gets flooded out causing the hard start and occasional stall. Part cost $66 from the dealer and fixed the problem. Not sure if that's the problem, but its easy to check and I heard a lot of 5.3s have had this problem.

mbat · August 2005

See Message #1107 about pressure regulator. May be bad

skeeter2 · August 2005

my low coolant light stays on but the coolant level is OK. anyone have an answer?

lsnapp · August 2005

Hello All... I went out tonight to put my 1999 GMC Sierra truck in the Garage and it would not start. No lights, no emergency flashers, no electronic nothing. I tried to check what fuses that I could but they looked ok. After trying to jump start the truck using my SUV I finally got a dome light and enough juice to roll the window up. Could this be a battery issue, or could this something more serious and should I have the local dealer check it out (meaning that I would have to have it towed there as it sits now)..

Thanks in advance

gmctruck · August 2005

What model year....? If it's a NBS (New body style) then it's one of two things. A bad reservoir cap was known to cause that, or it could be a bad sensor located on the bottom of the coolant reservoir tank. Try taking off the reservoir cap and put it back on tight, or borrow a cap from another truck and see if the light goes out. Those caps have been redesigned three times and a new one will cost around $10. I'm not sure how much a new sensor would cost, but there should be a way to test it first to see if it's bad. I had a low coolant light only once. I took off the reservoir cap and put it back on and haven't see the low coolant light again for several years now.

gmctruck · August 2005

This is a long shot... but here it goes. Check the screws on the battery cables and make sure they are tight. If so, take off the positive battery cable and look for leaking battery acid or corrosion on and inside the battery cable connector. GM had a problem with using lead washers on the cable. The lead washer would be crushed when the cable screw was tightened on the battery which allowed the screw to go too far into the battery causing a leak. I also have a '99 Sierra and had to replace the battery and battery tray, plus repaint some metal brackets due to battery acid damage. I was lucky because I caught the leak early before more serious damage was done. I now have an Optima yellow top battery in mine. You need to keep an eye on your Delco battery positive side and watch for leaks to develop. That was a known problem that happened to lots of owners.

My '99 Grand Am had the same symptoms as your truck. It turned out that the positive battery cable screw was loose and the car started right up after I tightened it up.

Good Luck!

gmtruckguy · August 2005

I have a 2000 Sierra 1500, 2wd 4.3L V6. Within the last 10,000 miles, I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor and spark plugs. Recently, it had been very reluctant to start in the mornings. I sent it in to the shop, had the fuel pump replaced. Then it only seemed to not start on humid mornings. Sent it back and had water in the distributor cap cleaned out. Now in the mornings when I put the key in and turn it to the run position all of the lights and radio come on fine, but then when I turn it to start, everything dies. The radio turns off and instrument panel dies, basically the car loses all power. Tried to shift gears to start it thinking it might be the neutral safety switch, and no luck. Then I'll go back to start it that afternoon and it will start up and run fine. And I know it's losing power because I have to reset my favorite radio stations when it does start. Checked the battery terminals and they are fine. Is this an ignition switch failure, bad wire, fuse, or something else. I just don't know what can keep causing intermittent starting problems like this?? Please help! I've already put $1000 into it.

pathy58 · August 2005

Sounds like an ignition switch to me. I had one go out on a Olds and had to have towed into dealer and have them replace.

boozer · August 2005

Hey could anyone help me out? I have a 2003 sierra slt that is very weird to drive and acctualy scary on the hyw. I wounders all over the road I herd that it had something to do whit the powersteering pump or guear box...Does anyone know if there is a technicle bulletin for a fix and what would be the # of the TSB.
I would apreciate it very much as this truck is scary to drive. It feels skidish and folows the holes or dips on the road execively. even after new michelin tires and numberous alignements & balancing.

noshowjoe · August 2005

this may sound dumb but can anyone tell me what the sle stands for and if gmc made an ss model in 1990 i just traded a guy for for mine and it has ss 350 stickers on the rear of the bed and on the front fenders? and does anyone know where i can get the new sle graphics for the bed i have looked every where thanks joe

txyank1 · August 2005

Don't know what the letters actually stand for, but the models are (or were) SL, SLE, and SLT. GMC never made a "SS" model that was just Chevy. GMC did however have a "GT" which was just a trim package like the Chevy "Sport" pkg of the '90's. The "350SS" decals you see are add-ons. The only Pickup SS was the '90 - '93 Chevy 454SS.
Do a search for "auto decals" and you'll find loads of companies that specialize in them.

GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

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GMC Sierra: Problems &amp; Solutions

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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions