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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

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  • gmctruckgmctruck Posts: 186
    Your post only proves that GM/GMC quality hasn't changed for the better as they claim. GM has been fighting steering shaft problems since the first model year '99 NBS trucks. Get ready to lose your shirt and then some at trade-in time.
  • I know full well I'm going to take a beating on this.I paid 26 grand plus for this truck,plus a LEER cap.I know they are going to try an give me like 13 grand for it even though Edmunds and KBB have it at 15 grand +.I also just put a set on new tires on it 2 months ago.If I don't get 16 for it,no deal end of story.I've already begun my research on the Frontier and Tacoma.I'm pretty good at bargaining,I'll wait to the last day of the month etc to make a deal on this truck.
  • Anyone ever heard of a Front Disc Breather.....part of the differential and transfer case? This is off a 2000 1500 Sierra SLT 4WD. I had my transfer case serviced a while back due to a "leak" (see message 1095 dated 20 July). At this time they serviced the transfer case and replaced the seal. Anyways, I went out of town on business for an extended duration and I came home and seen a puddle under the truck. Took it back to the dealer and they tell me that the Front Disc Breather is bad causing the leak. They don't have the part on hand so they have to order it, but I am requesting they give me the bad part upon replacement. I am just curious if anyone ever heard of it. Could not find it in my Chilton's manual either. Kind of makes me wonder if that was the original problem the first time around.
  • weelsweels Posts: 33
    My steering shaft went and had it changed last mont . Truck is less than a year old. Most of the problems these trucks have are common to the breed but you'll never get a dealer to admit it. Most of the time they'll play dumb like they aren't aware of a common problem.
  • weelsweels Posts: 33
    Probably the front DIFF. (differential) breather.
  • From the reading I have done here,this seems to be a very common problem.My concern is this.I have brought my truck into the dealer from day one.Why did they wait till I was just outside of the warranty period before they noticed this problem?I dropped the truck off there at 730 am this morning,I called there at 430 an they told me truck wasn't going to ready today because it needed another part,a steering gear.Like I stated in previous post,I'm done with American cars or trucks.I should have either a new Frontier or Tacoma by next week,providing they don't try to screw me over too bad with my trade.
  • A few weeks ago i was planning on leaving my drive way. I started my pickup just fine but as it was in idle it was sputtering like it was going to die. It did this untill i pressed the gas then it ran fine untill this morning when it did it again. But instead of being fine after i pressed the gas it was sputtering for a while longer. Also while on the free way it felt as though it would loose fuel for split seconds at a time every few minutes. Anyone have any suggestions? thanks
    Ryan
  • Didn't get my truck back till late today.Speaking to another service advisor,she even said off the record that there should have been a recall on the steering shaft.She stated that last year they were back ordered up the ying yang.I will write GM a letter in the am,and tell them how unhappy I am with this truck.I stopped by the Nissan dealer on the way home and they are going to locate a truck for me sometime tom.Good bye GMC :P
  • I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD crew cab. Ever since I purchased the vehicle last April (2005) I have had nothing but problems with the RADIO. I have taken the truck to 3 different dealers in 3 different states. They reprogram the radio and days or weeks later it returns itself to the factory settings. I have lost 2 cd's and my patients in the meantime. After contacting General Motors about the problems, they told me I have a programming problem and at the current time there is NO fix. I am supposed to live with this problem until a FIX comes out. I am going into ARBITRATION through the BBB on Nov 14 to decide the fate of my lemon-truck. Anyone having similar problems let me know and I will let you know how the Arbitrator sided.
  • I have a '05 Duramax/Allison truck that I bought new. It has ~3000 miles so it's not broken in yet. I love the truck's smoothness, comfort and power,but I have one complaint that GM won't fix or do anything about.

    When and only when I'm pulling a trailer(16ft enclosed trailer, 5000 lbs loaded, more wind drag than anything), in long, rolling hills, the cruise control will let the engine reduce speed down 4 mph beneath my set speed. Then it will accelerate very hard to get back up to speed and it overshoots by 3 mph. This is a killer on fuel economy and is a pain when it is fluctuating by approx. 7 mph. The truck has plenty of power for the load, it doesn't even have to shift down when it "floors it" to get back up to speed. I can hold the accelerater pedal with my foot and hold a more constant speed than the cruise does. But I didn't pay $48,000 to hold my foot on the accelerator pedal.

    I took it to my GM dealer and they said it will do that per document ID# 1579256 "04-05 LLY 6.6L Diesel Hesitation or throttle delay-kw LLY driveability pedel performance cruise accelerate apply shift# PIP3272- (Dec 21, 2004)"

    I didn't think that was acceptable from a new truck so I called the GM customer support line and accomplished nothing other than "your complaint has been filed"

    I am a true GM fan and I love this truck, but if I had known of this problem, I would have gotten the 6.0 powerstroke. This truck was bought for pulling and it disappoints me while pulling but is excellent while driving empty.

    Oh, and I was told that an exhaust, intake, and computer controller would nearly take this problem away, but that is $1500 for that kit from Edge and it will void my warranty. Major bummer.

    Does anybody have any solutions, input or related issues???? I'd like to get to the bottom of this.

    Thanks
  • ken34ken34 Posts: 1
    Purchased this truck in May 05. After 3 days I had to take it back for a first gear transmission problem. It's an automatic but in first gear it would whine and make a sound like metal clashing. It sounds fine when it shifts into the other gears. After 4 days in the shop they said they had to replace part of the first gear. Well, now the same problem is coming back. The noise is getting louder and I'm taking it back soon. Anyone else have a similar problem? I also have a thumping noise behind the dash and I can't locate it. It's intermittent and drives me nuts.
  • I have an '05 D-Max/Allison truck, that I have racked 18,000+ miles on since May when I bought the truck new, using it for everything from pulling trailers, hauling loads, to road trips, to my daily commuter. I have found that my truck does something similar when hauling a trailer like yours. I think the problem is the computer isn't compensating for the extra drag that is being put on the truck when it's towing, thus resulting in the lack of holding speed, and the surging. I know that it's very annoying, but when I'm in that situation I will just hold the pedal myself, and not worry about. I understand the whole thing about paying a lot of money for the truck as I paid about the same price for mine. As for buying a 6.0 Ford, the Ford might have the same problem. Not to mention that I have heard numerous stories of 6.0's "blowing up" after anywhere from 8-15,000 miles due to the new emission controls that Ford put on the motor and didn't properly test. I have heard of dealers talking people out of buying diesels for that reason. I have relations with Ford 6.0's both professionally and personally and I can say I'm glad I have my D-max.
  • I cannot remove the petcock on my 98 GMC Sierra 5.7L V8. It seems loose (i.e. it wiggles a little back and forth) but won't come loose. I have tried pushing and pulling while turning. It is a green plug on the drivers side of the radiator. Any suggestions?>
  • Thanks for the reply!

    Very true, the Fords might do it too. That's not really the point. Mine does it and it should be fixed.......

    I could understand the truck losing 4 mph if it went up a quick accending uphill, but these are long hills that shouldn't catch the truck "off gaurd". It has plenty of time to react.... I sit there and watch the speedo go down and down before it finally decides to hammer it.

    A GM rep called me today. I need to call him back tomorrow so I will see what he says.........
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Are you towing in overdrive?
  • Absolutey! The Duramax/Allison auto has no problems hauling the load in overdrive. It will not be put in drive and ran early redline at 75mph to pull a fairly light trailer. IMO, the idea of not letting the tranny shift to OD would be used on a vehicle that is underpowered/not enough tranny strength for the job. This truck is built for this job. It never down shifted to drive b/c it had plenty of power. Power and/or gear selection isn't the problem. The cruise is just too lazy when pulling trailers............
  • weelsweels Posts: 33
    I hate to see that happen but I can't say as I blame anyone for jumping over, the way you get treated with some of these dealers is what will kill the big 3.
  • weelsweels Posts: 33
    The radios have a security lock in them that is programed to each individual vehicle. I changed from one style to a different one, (both factory models) and had the dealer program it for my truck's code and it works fine. I don't see why they can't just give you a new radio and set it up for your truck.
  • weelsweels Posts: 33
    Thumping noise is the intermediate steering shaft. Take it in and make them put a new one in. My 04HD has made a whine-hydraulic flow type noise since it was new. Not sure that it's the same thing you're talkin' 'bout. I'm not too concerned with it, I figured that was a characteristic of this tranny. (4l80E ?)
  • tengatenga Posts: 20
    Just in case someone has the same problem with the electric seats, I found out what the reason why the seat wouldn't move.
    There are two cable that run from the both sides of the seat, to a electric motor in the middle. If you put your hand under the seat, they are about 5-6 inches from the front edge. The main drive motor, turns the two cables, which drive the rail sprockets, that move the chair forward or backwards.
    These cables (speedometer type), are about 6 to 7 inches. Here is what I had planned to do; 1/ go to the dealership and order (2) two of the speedometer type cables; 2/ Install them both myself; 3/ Be happy as a lark.
    No! No! No! It doesn't work like that. Remember vehicle designer don't design things, to make it easy on the mechanic (or you), and your wallet.
    Those two (2) 6 to 7 inch cables, will cost me close to $400. BECAUSE you have to buy the whole under-carriage.
    They haven't got my money yet. Hopefully, I can locate the cables through a parts place, junkyard or from a place that makes speedometer cable.
    Anyway, I hope this helps someone down the line. I'll keep the forum informed, on the results.
    Tenga
  • Just changed the anti freeze on my 01 Sierra Z-71. A mechanic friend told me to drive up to temp. then drain it, fill with water then drive it, drain again, fill with water, drive and drain. The last drain was just a shade pink. No gunk at all. Filled it with a 50/50 mix dex cool [distilled water]. good to go. 37,000 miles Total cost $13.00 and 2 hours waiting
  • I have a 99 1500 sierra with the 5.3L, I have experienced this every year for the last 3 year, whenever it gets below 20 degrees the engine refuses to idle, it drives perfectly perfect, I do not have this issue from spring to fall, only when it dips below 20. the code produced was a P0171 & P0174, I had the dealer replaced the air flow sensor but that didn’t work, then they said to replace the fuel tank? What? This is a problem below 20 and I am going to buy a new tank and fuel pump? This makes no sense. These are the same people who told me my heater blower was fried and to buy a new one @ 350.00 when all I needed was the 35 dollar resistor, I was also told I needed a complete transfer care repair for my 4 wheel drive service light when all I needed to do is replace the auto switch control on the dash. Any help would be much appreciated
  • I have a 2003 2500 hd duramax diesel and i keep having to change the fuel filter. The problem is the truck sometimes takes a little longer to start and once it does it runs great like the day i bought it and their is no problem. Then other times it will not start. I had it looked at and they found out it was the fuel filter the first time. Well the problem seems to just keep repeating its self in the worst situations; like in the morning before work, out in the woods, and at job sites. It has happened 6 times. I keep a spare filter in my truck and an oil filter wrench. I thought it might be bad gas but it has happened so many times in lenghty time periods where I fill up at differnt stations. This is getting way to expensive and I do not know what to do next. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
  • Sounds like you might be able to help me out with my problem..I have a 2005 Sierra 1500 with limited slip rear-end. When purchased the salesman said service rear end at 10,000 mi. (new lube, new fluid, etc.) When I called to set up the appointment the service manager said it should be done every 12,000 mis.I checked my service manual and there is no guideline. What is your opinion or can you tell me where I can find out?
  • Hey, i have a GMC Sierra 2500 Diesel with the optional auxiliary fuel tank. I was told the truck drew from both of the tanks equally, due to the absence of a tank switch that I could find. I filled one of the tanks with 10 gallons of fuel and the gauge went from 1/4 to 3/4, indicating that it was only reading off of one tank. So, my question is, is there a tank switch? If so, where is it? And if there's not, what do you suppose is up?
  • I was just curious if any one here knew what this light meant. It popped on yesterday when we were driving home and went out but i couldnt find anything about it in the owners manual, I found every other light meaning except the one i was looking for. it shows it on the diagram, but theres no explanation. It is on the left hand side, the second light from the bottom (its on the row with the check engine light). We kept calling it the loopty loop light. kind of embarassing.... but if any one knows what it means please help! We have also been noticing the truck "kicking" a lot when it gets going from a light or anything, also when trying to reverse it sometimes feels like it is in neutral. we are gettting these things looked at, just curious if anyone else has had that same problem.
  • I have an 01 Duramax which just turned 73K and I just started having the same problem. I replaced the fuel filter and one week later I took it into the shop and they told me the filter was clogged. They said I was pulling 5" of vacuum at the filter and it should only be about 2.5". Before they accomplished the recall (one time change of filter), I decided to pull the tank and check for contamination. I did find some contamination and some water in the diesel. Had the new filter installed and after two tanks of fuel the same problem came back. Usually if I just drain the fuel from the filter, and re prime it, the engine usually starts right up and runs fine. In my case, I noticed the problem usually happens when the truck has been setting for a short time (i.e. at a restaurant, at work, overnight in the driveway, etc.). It will start after setting, run for about 30 seconds and then quit. The only way I can get it re started, is to drain the filter and reprime it. Were you able to get any help on yours?
  • I recently replaced my factory exhaust with a flowmaster kit. Since the installation, the truck sounds great, but the computer seems to be a bit confused. It idles high at times, and doesn't seem to change gears the same. Does the modification of factory exhaust require any kind of engine tuning or adjustments to the computer? I've heard that disconnecting the battery will help the computer "relearn" everything. Any help would be great.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Did you disconnect the battery?

    After doing so see how it responds.
  • disconnecting the battery worked out great. Drives and sounds perfect now. What did disconnecting the battery do for me?
This discussion has been closed.