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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

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    bigslivbigsliv Member Posts: 2
    Found these links helpful...

    Circuit diagram:
    http://www.weberchevrolet.com/service/tech/wire1.gif

    Troubleshooting guide:
    http://www.4x4posi-lok.ca/pdfs/troubleshootguide.pdf

    Would check 25A 4x4 fuse first. If this ok, then would suspect TLA (Temperature Linear Actuator); threads into transfer case on passenger side.
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    gmc2004crewgmc2004crew Member Posts: 1
    Mike,

    I had a 1997 Ext. Cab (GMC) 1500. I had the same problem
    you are having and they replaced something called an EVO sensor and it fixed the problem right away. The feeling it gives in the steering is very odd and it is almost like the steering skips. Ask about the EVO sensor/? and see if that can be done to your truck.
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    noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    For more info: EVO = 'Electronic Variable Orifice'. Have not determined its function or the degree of difficulty of its replacement.

    -David
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    sierra4sierra4 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there. I am in the same situation as you were with your brakes on your GMC Sierra. Mine is a 1998 so is not included in the recall so we have taken it to a dealership and paid ourselves to have the maintenance described in the recall to it. It is still not working . Furthermore it has started to engage the antilock brakes when the gas pedal is still being depressed. Did you get your problem repaired? If so, was it done thru the recall or did you go to another technician? I am looking for anyone who may know what else I can do for my truck as nobody (3 mechanics) can figure it out.
    Thanks in advance
    Sherry
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    crazzeecannukcrazzeecannuk Member Posts: 1
    Just thought I would pass on the solution to a problem I was experiencing after some gasket work done on my engine. After trial and error of everthing from sensors to the computer and all parts in between. It was a faulty pickup in a brand new distributor. A defect from the factory that cost me 11 hours or mechanical trial and error. Goes to show you that even new they break down :blush: Thanks again from Canada.
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    rjflrjfl Member Posts: 1
    how do you disconnect daytime running lights and does anyone have any suggestions for the headlights in gerneral..they are kind of dim at night
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    mikec8mikec8 Member Posts: 16
    I had a discussion thread on the same subject but for a '97 Sierra (Mar 05) Due to the helpful advice of people here, I fixed the problem. It turned out to be corrosion on the mounting surface for the ABS sensors. Here's a web link provided to me that explains it all. Good luck

    http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/gb0804.pdf
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    05sierraslt05sierraslt Member Posts: 1
    Anyone know where the fuel filter location is on a 2005 Sierra with the 5.3HO?
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    bobyoungbobyoung Member Posts: 2
    04 GMC Sierra-won't turn over but lights, radio all work. This is an intermittent problem.
    Any clues what I need to check?
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    bobyoungbobyoung Member Posts: 2
    When the weather temp is hot/warm (S. Texas) it is harder to start than when the weather temp is cool (S. Texas).
    It is harder to start in the am before it is driven.
    After the vehicle is driven, it may or may not, start right up.
    Does this sound like a fuel delivery problem or throttle position?
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    worm007worm007 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 GMC sierra 1500 and the only problems I have ever had with it were the ABS recall and the tailgate latch. Today I went to start the truck and no dice. All dash lights came on. Tried a jump, checked small fuses, cleared the codes from the passlock system(turn key to on position and let sit for 10-15minutes) still didn't start. Had to be a starter problem. Before you have it towed like I did and get a call 5 minutes later with the problem, take this easy advice...UNDER THE HOOD IN THE FUSE BLOCK, PULL THE SQUARE STARTER RELAY AND SWITCH IT WITH THE WINDOW DEFROSTER RELAY, THIS WILL LET YOU KNOW IF ITS AS SIMPLE AS THE STARTER RELAY BEING BAD.
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    12run412run4 Member Posts: 3
    Your loopty loop light is the engine preheat light and comes on to tell you that your engine preheater is on. It may also be a wait to start light as you should wait for this light to go out before cranking the engine.
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    12run412run4 Member Posts: 3
    I'll almost guarantee you that your problem with your duramax not starting is your injectors. GM knows that the injectors fail and have extended the warranty to 300,000km.(aprox 180,000 miles) Mine needed to be replaced after 40,000 miles. The injectors start to leak fuel and the pressure will not build high enough for cold starts.
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    12run412run4 Member Posts: 3
    more than likely it is your actuator threaded into the front differential. Check for power at the plug first. There is a change up available that uses an electic motor to engage the hubs instead of the heat actuator. This new system is faster and alot less troublesome.
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    willl3willl3 Member Posts: 1
    Ken,
    Have 2005 -3500 auto, same problem..It made this noise (gear) & was checked out before leaving lot. Said they had to reset computer? Still makes this whine & hangs a little in firstgear. Also sound like popcorn popping behind dash...this noise is not always there. I didn't think the 2 problems were connected, but maybe...I'll be taking it in after Christmas. Will update-Bill
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    gmcdriver3gmcdriver3 Member Posts: 1
    I own two 2004 Sierras. A crew cab and a regular cab. The regular cab has the AM/FM/Cassette/CD and is having a similar problem. But, I am 3 radios ahead of you. That's right. Today, the local GMC dealership installed the 4th radio within the past 4 months. Guess what! Within a couple hours of leaving the dealership, it lost channel memory too! Every radio has had the same problem It loses the memory postion of the stations. Actually, it don't lose them all. Some of them just skip to the next button position. Others are gone completely. AM and both FM categories. I honestly don't know what to do now. This is getting ridiculous. I thought it might be losing the ground, as the compass and thermometer would occassionally go blank. As well, the electronic transfer case lights would go out and the message would read "service 4 wheel drive". But, they also replaced the transfer switch, and the new one does it too. Since the clock does not reset when the radio loses its memory, I have convinced myself that it is not a power or a ground problem. I believe it is either the computer or a software problem. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had this problem, and any possible solutions. Thanks.
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    kidcamaro69kidcamaro69 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 99 GMC Sierra Ext. Cab and my rear window latch came off of the window. The whole black plastic piece to keep it closed just fell off glass. I tried some of that rearview mirror adhesive and that didn't work at all. Any idea's on what to use? Dealer wants $300 to put a new window in.

    Thanks
    Brett
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    geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    They might have some "wonder" fix...........
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    fallsalotfallsalot Member Posts: 3
    Help! I hope someone out there in GMC Sierra land has a solution. When my "97" 1500 sits for more than 8 hours I have a heck of a problem getting it to start. I turn the ignition switch on for about 2 seconds at a time for about 20 times before it will even attempt to ignite. Then it will take about another 20 tries before it will actually start. After it starts it will run fine. I brought it to the dealer a month ago and they said it was a loose engine ground strap. $150.00 for that B/S.
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    mikec8mikec8 Member Posts: 16
    I can't answer your problem but, is it just me, or have GMC dealers forgotten how to actually troubleshoot so they just guess. Then, we get to pay for their wrong guesses. Whatever happened to good mechanics that understood the mechanical theory and design of a vehicle so they could actually think through from symptom to fix. Mr. Goodwrench my a--!
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    fallsalotfallsalot Member Posts: 3
    Well put Mikec8!
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    cajunladycajunlady Member Posts: 1
    :sick: while driving the engine light will come on, the message across the "dummy center" reads, engine power low.
    There is no acceleration, hardly no brakes, and the engine revs up to 15-1600 rpms and stays there, no rough idle, no low volts.

    Funny thing is you can shut the truck off for about 10-15 minutes, restart and it runs fine, talk about felt like a fool after a 75 dollar tow bill and a mechanic looking at me funny and saying there are no codes for anything.

    Mechanics suggestion was to clean the throttle body which I myself did, it ran fine until today.

    anyone had the same problem?
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    bear11bear11 Member Posts: 1
    I was driving two days ago and truck just died right in its tracts. It would turn over but wouldn't start. I immediately assumed Fuel Pump. I checked the pump and its running. I replaced the fuel filter and thought that would fix it but it didn't. Still just turns over and no start.

    Next I changed the coil out and no change. I looked at the rotor and the distributor cap and they look fine. I have pulled two spark plugs and neither one show that they are getting any fire. I am really stumped here as to what to look at next. Any suggestions? Thanks
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    geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Bear.......i assume you have a distributor correct?
    You have no spark correct since you changed the coil
    (in cap or seperate)
    also...........

    Heres my bet..........

    Inside the dist. there will be a "ignition module"
    It is sorta square flat plastic piece with bent
    ends and 4? plugs on it. They have a habit of failing.
    Cost about $20 bucks. If they go you will have NO
    spark also.

    Have a look inside your dist. Or call your local
    parts store to see if your year has one..........
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    adammcadammc Member Posts: 1
    My Girlfriend has a GMC Sierra(Around 90-93 I'd say) and about 2-3 weeks ago she noticed the thermostat gague was going up, so she popped the hood and I noticed there was no coolant in the reserve tank, so we took it to a gas station and grabbed some basic coolant and put it in, but about a week ago she was driving and said it started smoking, so I took a look at it and it appeared that there was no oil in it, so I added 2 quarts and we took off back twards her house, but it started overheating again, and was smoking from a central location in the tubing located about center of the engine. One thing of note is that if you turn the heat on high, you don't get a blast of hot air like you do on traditionally hot engines. I was just wondering if this had happened to anyone else or if someone had experienced this problem, sorry for being vague, and thank you for helping if you can
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    bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    When you checked the oil was there any coolant in the oil? I could be way off since im no mechanic, but sounds a lil like a head gasket possibly.
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    ad5vpad5vp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GMC Sierra on which the cruise stopped working. When I turn it on (truck is stopped), I hear a click like it is on. When I get to speed (60 mph), hit the button in the turn signal, nothing happens. I have tested continuity from the steering column to the connector at the cruise module and all switches/buttons work. Before I go out and spend $400 on a new module, is there some thing else that I can try or do to check? Is there a separate servo to change? In the repair manual, it looks like the servo and module are all in one.
    Thanks
    Bren
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    woody12woody12 Member Posts: 1
    this is a gmc 4x4 2500 with a 5.7 liter

    I have had this truck for about 4 yrs and it has had this problem about 9 times (turns over great but will not fire) usually after about 3hrs to 3 days it will start and run great. I can't find out what is causing this problem. I have been lucky in that it never quits while running just after sitting a while.
    I have done these tests
    replaced the icm module,put a pressure gage on the fuel line and I get 60 psi with key on,I have spark at all the plugs, Have sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body while trying to start it.
    Thanks for any input Dan
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    donwpdonwp Member Posts: 1
    2001 4.8 hard to start when engine is cold have to put your foot on the foot petal for 1 to 2 minutes and then the engine will run fine then it will restart and run fine
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    rcampbellrcampbell Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 GMC 4.8 had the same cold starting problem (#1299, donwp) a month ago when the morning temps were around 0 degrees. I changed back the plugs to platinum (0.058 gap) from AC Delco Iridium (0.040 gap), changed the PCV valve, and cleaned the carbon build-up from the throttle bore. It didn't completely solve the very cold starting problem, but it'll start normally about 15 degrees colder now and the service engine light turned off the next day. We haven't had any single didget temps since then, but it's been running fine. Let me know what you find. rcampbell
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    maffu123maffu123 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 that does the same thing. Was told it was a chip in my key,that year doesn't have a chip. It is intermittent after it happens will run fine for 2-3months but started doing it more after hitting 100k miles. Have read on other forums that changing the ignition doesn't help. I get 12 volts to the ignition switch with key off.And 12 volts coming out with key on.STARTER RELAY has been replaced twice just to be safe.Checked small fuses.
    Today I went to start the truck and no dice. All dash lights came on.Wll not turn over or fire.

    ANY info is helpful.... Truck is in driveway stranded as I type.
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    wingsh00terwingsh00ter Member Posts: 9
    Did replacing the Hub assembly fix the issue? I have the abs problem and brought the truck in for the recall work. The dealer said the sensors are working properly and the cause of the abs activation is due to the hub assembly. Hub assembly is not covered under recall and wants $500 to replace assembly. Burns me that they did not include the hub assembly under the recall. I filed a complaint for what it is worth. Will GM refund your money for the hub assembly? Not sure if it is worth fixing the problem as it sounds like it will most likely resurface again as it gets dirty.

    Neighbor had work done even though she did not have the abs activation. Two months later, she now has the issue. Broke something that worked. The dealer had her bring it back in and replaced a sensor. Problem gone.
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    travis77travis77 Member Posts: 63
    I currently have a 04 sierra 4x4. It's the worst vehicle i have owned thus far. It only has 24k miles on it and has been in for numerous warranty issues. So here is a list from the start with what has happened with it.

    clunks in transmission ,, yoke replaced,, didn't fix

    clunks in drivetrain,,,, they said it was normal (pish posh)

    power steering

    radio antenna won't stay on tight

    radio loses volume, i can turn it down and then try to turn it back up and get no sound

    driver and passenger window motors went out

    squeaky doors- every bump they squeaked

    passenger door speaker quit

    speedometer goes crazy- go about 65 on highway and speedometer pegs out @ 120 then stays stuck on 30 when i stop

    when i come to a stop sometimes it won't shift down into first gear and trys to take off in second gear

    I am now in the process of trying to have general motors buy the truck back,, i'm not paying another penny on it,, not worth the money they ask for. So if they don't buy it back then i guess i'm just gonna take it back to them and do a voluntary repo,, i already bought a new car so the repo won't affect me as far as that goes. I can't sell the truck do to the pay off being more than the truck is worth. GM doing there rebates don't help either as far as value goes. :mad:
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    gmcjoegmcjoe Member Posts: 11
    Yes, I replaced the left front hub assembly (which included a new sensor) and the symptom disappeared and has not returned. I diagnosed the left side to be at fault in two ways - by the way the vehicle pulled when the anti-lock activated and by monitoring the sensor output voltage while rotating the tire/wheel with the truck in the air. The left side had the lower voltage reading.

    Since the repair, I received my recall notice but have yet to bring the truck in. I really doubt that GM will reimburse me for anything but the amount it would cost to complete the procedures in the recall notice.

    I also think it stinks that they are not willing to include the sensor and hub assembly in the recall. After all, they function as a unit to send the necessary voltage pulses to the ABS computer. They took the cheap way out on this one.
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    surrfurtomsurrfurtom Member Posts: 122
    I buy an extended warranty. It has paid for itself especially with those occasional intermittent problems that require the dealer to throw parts at it.
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    travis77travis77 Member Posts: 63
    Well General Motors said they wounld not buy my truck back so i guess i'm gonna take it back to them.
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    mykaveli1208mykaveli1208 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1997 GMC Sierra SLE and I haven't had any problems with it until today. I was behind this person just sitting in the street ( in their car obviously ) and waiting for him to move, finally realized he was waiting for someone and went to put my truck in reverse, when I did this, I felt the engine pull real hard, like it jerked, and then it didn't reverse, it just became nuetral. And now when i am in Drive it seems to have a hard time switching gears, instead of hitting 10 - 15 and going to second, it struggles and revs real high (about 3 rpms) before it hits either 2nd gear, or skips and goes into 3rd. Any ideas on what the problem might be?
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    bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Sounds like what my old dodge ram did when it dropped the transmission. Just hope its cheaper than the rams $2500 to fix. :sick:
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    glennmergglennmerg Member Posts: 1
    I am here looking for the same answer. My 2000 it was inside the frame in front of the gas tank. I have been all over this truck and cant find it anywhere. Did you have any luck?
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    geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Guys.........The filter is inside the gas tank
    and part of the pump unit/module and is "supposed"
    to be a LIFETIME part on 04? and up fullsize pickups.
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    fuzzy2fuzzy2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 GMC with a 4.8. It pops back thru the intake at 4000 rpm. and up. The engine doesn't seem to miss.Dealer replaced the intake gasket,vent solenoid,and new Pcm. with all new updates. Still same problem. Really noticeable in passing gear. Dealer thinks maybe now, oxygen sensor bad.Any ideas.
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    thompson4thompson4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Sierra with the V6. I drive for miles and the temp gauge doesnt move. All of the sudden the gauge begins to move rapidly and peeks out at 240 degrees (check engine light comes on) but the thing is not overheating. Ive replaced the Coolant Sending unit three times, thinking I had a bad unit. Any suggestions?
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    wingsh00terwingsh00ter Member Posts: 9
    The latest: I brought my truck to the GMC dealer and paid for the 2nd opinion. Told them I brought it to Chevy dealer and they could not fix the sensor without hub replacement. Had them check the sensors. They called me later and said the sensors where clean, but the mount surface was not. It cost me $160. GMC told me to submit to Gm for reimbursement. Got the check today.

    Went to Chevy dealer and asked for an explanation why the GMC dealer fixed the issue without having to replace the hub assembly. They did not have a good answer. I may file a formal complaint against that dealer if the ABS issue does not reappear. I felt like I was getting rooked. But your email sounds like the hub assembly can be an issue.

    Not sure what luck you will have in getting reimbursed if you did your own work.

    Class Action has been opened in Ill. You can call Jim Smith (312) 372-8822 if you want to be added to Class Action.

    GM may have to issue a recall on the hub eventually. Don't give up.

    Good luck and I will let you know if it resurface,

    Norm
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    orchards6thorchards6th Member Posts: 1
    1999 GMC Sierra ( New body Style )the truck in the morning is hard to turn to the right, ( seems like no power assist) but to the left seems fine. Started this way only in the morning, but now happens in the morning always and intermittenly while driving. What is wrong and can I fix it?
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    denton1denton1 Member Posts: 1
    Did you find a answer to this problem
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    mikec8mikec8 Member Posts: 16
    It's been suggested that the problem I'm having with my steering wanting to jump an extra amount when I am going around a right curve might be caused by the EVO going bad. Anyone know if that's possible or what else might be causing it. I've posted before on this problem. It's a 97 K-1500. Dealer can't find it and wants to experiment, probably at my expense. I e-mailed GMC corp customer service but that didn't help either. Apparently it's a part of the steering system. Thanks....Mike
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    noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Mike; When you mentioned this before I looked in my manual and about all I could find then was the definition of EVO. I'll search again and try and get back to you this week-end.

    -David
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    mikec8mikec8 Member Posts: 16
    Thanks David. I appreciate the help. The steering issue is getting more frequent, sometimes "jumping" a couple of times in one curve on the highway. It is interesting that it only does it when turning the wheels to the right....Mike
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    mikec8mikec8 Member Posts: 16
    Regarding the 97 1500 steering problem. You mentioned awhile back that you had the EVO sensor replaced. Do you recall the cost. I'm willing to try it, I think. My dealer's garage tends to experiment without exhibiting much real knowledge or confidence. If too much, I might try to do it myself. Thanks....Mike
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    noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    Mike; Couldn't find much help in the service manual. But, here's a couple of links I found by Googling 'Electronic Variable Orifice' and 'EVO sensor':

    http://www.delphi.com/pdf/ppd/chsteer/str_evo.pdf

    http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/april2005/techtips.cfm

    and this at: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3707/is_200504/ai_n13499665

    "Steering Shake

    IHAVE A 1998 GMC SUBURBAN 1500 4WD with the 5.7-liter engine. I recently put a new set of Goodyear Fortera HL tires on. This is when I noticed a shake in the steering wheel between 30 and 40 MPH. It doesn't happen all the time, but it can occur at any time and at any speed between 30 and 40 MPH.

    A mechanic and I ruled out the cause being a bad tire by swapping tires around, using known good tires and wheels. The mechanic subscribes to an online database/chat room for mechanics. After researching this site and asking questions, he narrowed the problem down to two likely causes, the EVO sensor (which I believe goes around the steering column under the dash) and an actuator valve at the power-steering pump that regulates pressure for the speed-sensitive steering. Neither of these corrected the problem. However, when the connector at the pump actuator is disconnected, the problem is gone.

    RANDALL COWAN

    Middle River, Maryland

    The steering-position sensor is used to tell the computer the position of the steering wheel and how fast the driver is turning the wheel. Based on that information and also on vehicle speed, it will vary the steering effort by controlling the bypass orifice to relieve powersteering-pump pressure. There are two likely conditions that will cause the system to malfunction - a lifted suspension or oversized tires with extreme rim offsets. Both of these will change the force to the steering gear and cause a hydraulic oscillation. In layman's terms, the steering wheel will shake.

    The easiest way to diagnose the problem is to apply the brakes on dry pavement and turn the wheel lock to lock (while the vehicle is stationary). If it takes some strong-arm work to move the steering wheel, then the pump pressure is not high enough. Correct that first and then look at some type of tuned hose that acts as an accumulator to dampen the hydraulic oscillation. A spiral-wound spring inside the pressure hose will help dampen the fluctuation of pressure. You should be able to find a local custom-hose builder to do it. You could also temporarily install stock-type and stock-size tires up front and drive the truck to see if the problem goes away, which would further help you isolate the source of your shaking. - K.F."

    You might, just as an experiment as suggested in the above, disconnect the electrical connector at the actuator (rear of the pump) to see if that eliminates the problem . If it does, you won't know if it's the actuator or the EVO sensor, but at least it puts you in the ballpark. Let us know how it turns out.

    -David
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