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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • fuzzy2fuzzy2 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 GMC with a 4.8. It pops back thru the intake at 4000 rpm. and up. The engine doesn't seem to miss.Dealer replaced the intake gasket,vent solenoid,and new Pcm. with all new updates. Still same problem. Really noticeable in passing gear. Dealer thinks maybe now, oxygen sensor bad.Any ideas.
  • I have a 1993 Sierra with the V6. I drive for miles and the temp gauge doesnt move. All of the sudden the gauge begins to move rapidly and peeks out at 240 degrees (check engine light comes on) but the thing is not overheating. Ive replaced the Coolant Sending unit three times, thinking I had a bad unit. Any suggestions?
  • The latest: I brought my truck to the GMC dealer and paid for the 2nd opinion. Told them I brought it to Chevy dealer and they could not fix the sensor without hub replacement. Had them check the sensors. They called me later and said the sensors where clean, but the mount surface was not. It cost me $160. GMC told me to submit to Gm for reimbursement. Got the check today.

    Went to Chevy dealer and asked for an explanation why the GMC dealer fixed the issue without having to replace the hub assembly. They did not have a good answer. I may file a formal complaint against that dealer if the ABS issue does not reappear. I felt like I was getting rooked. But your email sounds like the hub assembly can be an issue.

    Not sure what luck you will have in getting reimbursed if you did your own work.

    Class Action has been opened in Ill. You can call Jim Smith (312) 372-8822 if you want to be added to Class Action.

    GM may have to issue a recall on the hub eventually. Don't give up.

    Good luck and I will let you know if it resurface,

    Norm
  • 1999 GMC Sierra ( New body Style )the truck in the morning is hard to turn to the right, ( seems like no power assist) but to the left seems fine. Started this way only in the morning, but now happens in the morning always and intermittenly while driving. What is wrong and can I fix it?
  • Did you find a answer to this problem
  • mikec8mikec8 Posts: 16
    It's been suggested that the problem I'm having with my steering wanting to jump an extra amount when I am going around a right curve might be caused by the EVO going bad. Anyone know if that's possible or what else might be causing it. I've posted before on this problem. It's a 97 K-1500. Dealer can't find it and wants to experiment, probably at my expense. I e-mailed GMC corp customer service but that didn't help either. Apparently it's a part of the steering system. Thanks....Mike
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    Mike; When you mentioned this before I looked in my manual and about all I could find then was the definition of EVO. I'll search again and try and get back to you this week-end.

    -David
  • mikec8mikec8 Posts: 16
    Thanks David. I appreciate the help. The steering issue is getting more frequent, sometimes "jumping" a couple of times in one curve on the highway. It is interesting that it only does it when turning the wheels to the right....Mike
  • mikec8mikec8 Posts: 16
    Regarding the 97 1500 steering problem. You mentioned awhile back that you had the EVO sensor replaced. Do you recall the cost. I'm willing to try it, I think. My dealer's garage tends to experiment without exhibiting much real knowledge or confidence. If too much, I might try to do it myself. Thanks....Mike
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    Mike; Couldn't find much help in the service manual. But, here's a couple of links I found by Googling 'Electronic Variable Orifice' and 'EVO sensor':

    http://www.delphi.com/pdf/ppd/chsteer/str_evo.pdf

    http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/april2005/techtips.cfm

    and this at: http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3707/is_200504/ai_n13499665

    "Steering Shake

    IHAVE A 1998 GMC SUBURBAN 1500 4WD with the 5.7-liter engine. I recently put a new set of Goodyear Fortera HL tires on. This is when I noticed a shake in the steering wheel between 30 and 40 MPH. It doesn't happen all the time, but it can occur at any time and at any speed between 30 and 40 MPH.

    A mechanic and I ruled out the cause being a bad tire by swapping tires around, using known good tires and wheels. The mechanic subscribes to an online database/chat room for mechanics. After researching this site and asking questions, he narrowed the problem down to two likely causes, the EVO sensor (which I believe goes around the steering column under the dash) and an actuator valve at the power-steering pump that regulates pressure for the speed-sensitive steering. Neither of these corrected the problem. However, when the connector at the pump actuator is disconnected, the problem is gone.

    RANDALL COWAN

    Middle River, Maryland

    The steering-position sensor is used to tell the computer the position of the steering wheel and how fast the driver is turning the wheel. Based on that information and also on vehicle speed, it will vary the steering effort by controlling the bypass orifice to relieve powersteering-pump pressure. There are two likely conditions that will cause the system to malfunction - a lifted suspension or oversized tires with extreme rim offsets. Both of these will change the force to the steering gear and cause a hydraulic oscillation. In layman's terms, the steering wheel will shake.

    The easiest way to diagnose the problem is to apply the brakes on dry pavement and turn the wheel lock to lock (while the vehicle is stationary). If it takes some strong-arm work to move the steering wheel, then the pump pressure is not high enough. Correct that first and then look at some type of tuned hose that acts as an accumulator to dampen the hydraulic oscillation. A spiral-wound spring inside the pressure hose will help dampen the fluctuation of pressure. You should be able to find a local custom-hose builder to do it. You could also temporarily install stock-type and stock-size tires up front and drive the truck to see if the problem goes away, which would further help you isolate the source of your shaking. - K.F."

    You might, just as an experiment as suggested in the above, disconnect the electrical connector at the actuator (rear of the pump) to see if that eliminates the problem . If it does, you won't know if it's the actuator or the EVO sensor, but at least it puts you in the ballpark. Let us know how it turns out.

    -David
  • My battery went down (due to lack of driving)on my 96 GMC Sierra 1500 so hooked up the battery charger. When I did the Code Alarm activated and the speedometer needle bounced around. Once I shut the alarm off the speedometer is stuck on 100 MHP. Any ideas?
  • take a look at this site for some good background on EVO
    http://forums.vmag.com/suvtahyuk0301/messages/5078.html
  • I purchased my 03 GMC Sierra 3500 mid December 2005 with 118,000 miles. It now has a little over 119,000 miles and now I have been told all injectors and the pump must be replaced. I was not being able to get it to start. One time it would, next time could not do anything to get it started. Do you have any reference I can go to regarding the extended warranty to approx. 180,000 miles. Dealership has told me this would be covered under warranty but now they are saying it will not and they can't get the GMC rep to do anything about it. Any help would be MOST appreciated.
  • My light has been on for awhile, I have has oversized 35" tires on my truck for years. Just recently, the light came on and stay on. The scanner was put on and it said that BOTH front wheel sensors were bad, after resetting in park and engine off, the right one kicked the light on immediately. Does anybody have any ideas on how to repair? I have been getting 2 stories about the sensors that they clip into the hub and the other that they are attached to the wheel hub and must be purchased as a whole unit. Help me out guys!!!!
  • I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 4x4 with only 7,000 miles on it. Just after 6,000 miles, it began to show a really bad vibration/shudder when the brakes are applied. I brought it to the dealer who of course could find nothing wrong (typical excuse). Now when I lightly apply the brakes, the truck begins to shudder and it seems like 30 mph and under is the worst. It begins to shake and it gets so bad that that I can actually hear a knocking sound! It is an awful sound. I am not 100% sure that it could be warped rotors......and I would almost think it could be ABS, but no lights come on. The truck did sit in a garage for some time, like 5-6 months and there was some rust build up on the rotors that has since worn away and they are shiny. Can anyone offer some help on this, it must be fixed!
    Thanks! :mad:
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Do you wash your truck at car washes and apply liquid wax? Or use products like ZipCar wash in a bucket of water and handwash the truck? If wax gets on the brake rotors, it will contaminate the pads and possibly cause horrible griding and screeching noise when brakes are lightly applied. I had something like this happen with a passenger car. The solution was cleaning the rotors with acetone, and lightly sanding them by hand with 100 grit sandpaper to remove the glaze. Also, I replaced the brake pads and made sure that the caliper sliding pins were lubricated and sliding freely. This solved the problem for good.

    Rotors can get warped by uneven lug nut tightening with an air impact gun (unless they use a torque extension with it). Did you have your tires rotated and did they use an air gun on your lug nuts to tighten them? However, warped rotors usually cause pulsation it the brake pedal and chatter when braking hard at high speeds. Brake chatter at low speeds under light braking conditions can also be caused by sticking cliper sliding pins.
  • I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 4wd, just recentley installed K & N cold intake kit and then programmed with Hypertech programmer, while programming a dtc(diagnostic trouble code) came up (B0229) Is there a web site where i can go to to check what this code is? Truck runs great, and there is no check engine light on.

    Thanks barry
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    Barry;
    I know of no site where they're listed. Maybe someone else does.
    DTC B0229 relates to HVAC Recirculation Door Position. Whether it's induced by your programmer or is just one of those maddening coincidences is anyone's guess; since both PCM and HVAC Control Module involve 'memory' it may not be coincidence. If your recirculation controls are working properly I'd clear the DTC and not worry about it unless it recurs.
    If your controls are not working properly you may need recalibration or some other action which means a trip to the dealer, (after restoring factory program).

    -David
  • Thanks David, I did find a site where you can enter codes, It is very helpful for anyone. www.obdii.com
  • I on occasion use the car wash, put never use the wax feature, just the regular soap, then rinse. When washing at home, I have many times used ZipWax car wash, but I never would think that I could have gotten enough on the brake rotors to make a difference. As far as the tire rotation, I do the work myself and installed the newly rotated tires by hand with a torque wrench per the specs in the manual. I had read somewhere online that if a vehicle sits for a while, like mine had, and the rotors get the chance to rust, that when you use them again some of the rust on the rotor could transfer onto the pad and cause a pulsation? I never really had any problems like this in the past with other trucks......not with this few miles on them. I am concerned that it is a ABS issue, possibly rusty sensors or something?
    Dave
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    If your dealer can't/won't fix the problem I would try another dealer. If you don't have any luck with that one then go for the manufacturers rep.
    What you are describing sounds to me like a problem with the ABS system. Either way it is a warranty issue and should be addressed by the dealer.
  • mikec8mikec8 Posts: 16
    Regarding the 97 Sierra steering problem (& EVO): Thanks for all the help. The cumulation of the articles gave me enough info to act on. I sure appreciate the assist.....Mike
  • Hi, new member here! I have a 93 GMC sierra 1500. I just put a new crate engine in the beast and thought with new sensors that the SES light would go out! (That wasn't the only problem with the old engine-long story). I still get a code 43! That's the anti-knock sensor. It's a brand new one! Will it hurt the truck to run it with that going on? Will there be any long-term damage? The mechanic I who put the motor in seems to be avoiding me about this problem. any help would be appreciated. :cry:
  • gmc1500gmc1500 Posts: 1
    My 2006 four door 1500 GMC is at the dealership due to the right side door windows not working. I'm told the problems maybe in the multiplex wiring.

    When did GM begin using Multiplex wiring?

    Has anyone else experienced this type of problem?
  • psmittypsmitty Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 GMC Sierra with the 5.3 engine--50,000 miles. Occasionally the truck will not accelerate. The engine rpm's will go to about 1800 and the truck will not accelerate past this point for a short period of time. There appears to be a backfiring type noise. I have replaced the fuel filter and the complete module in the fuel tank. The engine runs fine if you are in park--no hesitations through the entire rpm range. This problem only occurs with the transmission engaged. No codes are showing up in the computer. Any help will be appreciated.
  • I have a 1994 GMC sierra 1500 that cuts out when idling but once I give it gas it is fine. I have replaced the fuel filter and it hasn't helped. When it starts to cut out the brake light on the dash lights up, is this significant? Someone told me that it could possibly be something in my gas tank causing the problem, is that something I should get checked? I also changed the plugs and wires in case it was a faulty plug causing the problem. If anyone has an idea of what I should do next please let me know. Thanks!
  • kawijgkawijg Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 gmc sierra, i was interested in adding homelink to my truck, i am tired of looking for the remote. Can i just purchase the overhead consul that contains the homelink buttons and replace mine with it. Is it the same electrical hookup, or do things go much deeper then that. Any help would be appreciated
  • nunzionunzio Posts: 1
    hi everbody.
    I just recently baught a 2006 GMC Sierra crew cab 5.3L. I am just wondering, if any of the problems from the past years such as 2003 on are still problems on the new 2006's. If so what are the problems and what should i be keeping an eye on. Any help would be appreciated. thanks
  • keefe1keefe1 Posts: 1
    I have a2005 GMC 1500 4x4 at 3800 to4000 thousand miles I started to have brake problems at 40 mph and up the dealer could not find it since that time it has been back 3 more times and each time they turn the front rotors and rear drums to me this is patch job I did not buy a used truck what can I do.
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