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Comments
I have a 2012 CX-9 GT but I will probably be trading it on the upcoming diesel Mazda6. As long as it comes in Grand Touring trim and looks the same. I've been a Mazda owner for almost eight years (2006 Mazda3 5-door before the CX-9). It's very impressive to see what they can do without being limited by Ford or compromising their design so Ford could water it down and/or stretch it in every direction and make a mediocre product from it.
Sales of the 2014 Mazda6 in May were 3,944, the best May sales figures since 2008. Their sales goal is only 30,000 for 2014. As of May end of month, they're sold 17,828 but that figure also includes 2013 models. Still, if sales continue at 4k per month, they'll sell another 28k before year end.
I bought the CX-9 because I wanted something distinctive that I wouldn't meet on the road every five minutes. I've heard other 2014 Mazda6 owners talk about the attention their cars get and how people compliment and ask questions about it. Somehow, I feel confident that never happens to Accord and Camry owners.....
If I was in the market for this car in an area that has a decent level of competition, I personally would shoot for a selling price of a couple hundred dollars over dealer invoice.
Car_man
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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
I'm leaning towards buying, since the lease isn't working out to be as good of a deal as it seemed it would be.
Thanks.
hope this will help. just leased silver GT MSRP $30,290 and i qualified for $1000 rebate as current mazda owner. $500 down + $332 (including Mass 6.25% tax) for 36 months and 12000 miles per year. this is including all fees and taxes.
I think this was a good deal and I love the car.
Thanks for all the helpful information here.
My lease is 20,000 miles per year for 2 years. Please take that as a given as I need these parameters.
MSRP: $31,190 (2014 GT with FoW and MRCC)
Invoice price : $29,421
Residual: 67%
Money factor: 0.00022
Money down of $1,984 (made up of bank fee 595, tax 950, first months payment 439)
Monthly payment (inclusive of tax): $439
Any thoughts would be gratefully appreciated.
Thanks!
Who is the leasing company? Is it Chase (Mazda Capital Services) or a third party leasing company. That money factor seems low and considering the residual percentage for a 36 month, 10K/yr is 60% (see post 408) these days, a 67% residual for a car with 40K miles, even only two years old, looks high. If it is a third party leasing company be careful, check out the disposition fees and know they will hit you with excess wear and tear charges that Chase would not. They have to make money somehow and they are not making it based on the MF and residual. Also, you should put all the fees into the lease. Should the car be stolen or totalled in an accident, you lose everything you paid at inception.
Thanks in advance.
I'm in MN - looking for July MF and residuals.
I'm considering either the Touring w/ tech package or GT model. 12K miles per year.
Thanks much.
Can you please provide the lease numbers for a 2014 Mazda 6 GT, 36 months, both 12 and 15k.
Thank you
I'm looking to lease a Mazda 6 GT on tuesday. Can you send em the Mazda Finance lease figures. The MSRP on the car I like is $30,290 what is a fair price?
My goal is to zero down and pay as close to $300 as possible. The Residual they offered is 60% for 36 months with 12k miles per year.
Thanks,
JLHouston
Cap cost (including fees) $28,800 (remember white is $200 more expensive)
Money Factor for July is Pennsylvania is 0.00023
Zero down payment
$355 per month including taxes (it is 9% for me)
Due at signing: $220 (registration)..1st payment is waived
I'm getting the remote starter installed $470 (paying it cash upfront)
This car doesn't include the MRCC FOW package
Ah! I didn't qualify for owner loyalty, military or any other discounts
There was $2,600 in Leasing fees - which I can deal with later and get them down. But their estimate at $0 down was a payment of $430 which seems ridiculous given that's more than what I would pay for a C250 with $0 down
Car_Man can you help me out with the residual and MF for Texas on the Mazda 6 GT at 36 months with 12k miles per yr
Thank you,
JLHouston
Monthly payment - $395
MF -.00053
Residual - 60%
Walk away just first month payment of $395
Car_Man - can you send me the figures for this month and also comment on what the cap cost they are using breaks down to? I can't understand how they are trying to get this car sold at such a high payment. Now I understand why they don't move anywhere near the volume Honda and Toyota move even though its a better car in my opinion.
Thank you,
JLHouston
Could you please post the MF and Residual for a 2014 Mazda 6 Touring and Sport with an auto transmission. I am looking at 36 months with 10k or 12k per yr. Any lease cash or support on this vehicle yet? I am in KY. Thank you.
2014 Mazda 6 gt
12 k miles/year
42 month lease
$299 a month (before 6% taxes)
$700 down (includes ttl and first month)
Gap insurance included
Car is under warranty for 6 years or 60k miles
Is there anything I am missing or that I need clarification on regarding this proposal? Thanks in advance.
I took my April lease, kept the money factor, lowered the residual by 2% (I know that the residual is the same for 36 or 39 months but don't know about 42 months), changed the paid at signing to $700 and changed the term to 42 months and came up with the same $299 before taxes and I have the GT with MRCC/FOW package so if Im guessing the dealer is making about the same on both of us plus/minus a few hundred.
Post the actual pieces and you can get some opinions.
What I do find crazy is that it appears the dealer is paying for an extended warranty to 60 months when you are only leasing the car for 42 months. I know it's unlikely you will need to use the warranty between 36 and 42 months but if the warrantly appears legit (take a look at it closely) it's a pretty smart way to go since you'll still be enjoying the car after 36 months at a lower rate.
The true car price he quoted was $28,623.
I just wanted a quote on the very basic Mazda 6 i-sport.
After the test drive and talking with the guy i asked for a quote on a 3 yr / 12000 miles lease.
He came back with the following numbers
Capitalized cost: $25400
Residual: $13275
MF: 0.00069
Down payment: $0
Monthly: $388 including taxes
Immediately i thought the Capitalized cost was way wrong. Turns out these guys had a $895 dealer fee. They also used the MSRP in the calculation.
I started talking about negotiating the price and that $22000 was pretty much the fair price for this and that the dealer fees were way high. The MF appears to be high but that may be because i am in a different state from the 0.00045 i saw earlier.
I said i wanted to negotiate the price and get much closer to the invoice price and maybe waive some of their fees. My goal is to get a lease at or around $300 tax in. I got quoted an Accord LX at $320 tax in and i had not even started to negotiate. Now, some might argue that the Mazda 6 is a better car than the Accord. As a matter of fact the salesman was talking about engine compression and stuff. I don't really care about that. Bottom line is Horsepower is the same, the gadgets are the same (CTV transmission, backup camera, bluetooth) and the MPG is the same. Those are the thing i am looking for.. not the engine compression or what the 0-60 time is.
He went to see the finance guy and he came back with him. Finance guy said he could do no better than $340 a month and that getting lower is impossible without a down payment. He stated that the i-Sport is fairly new and there aren't enough sold yet to get any wiggle room to negotiate. He says Mazda is pushing for the Touring and is not providing enough i-Sport so the financing market for it is still unknown.
It's a shame because i really liked my test drive experience but $388... or even $344 is over my budget. I could do $310 or $315 but my goal is to be as close (or under) $300 as possible.
What do you guys think?
On a side note, definitely go with the Mazda 6 over the accord. I am so happy with my purchase. It's just such a sexy looking car and drives extremely well.
I am pretty certain that this dealer won't go under $340. I may have to try another dealer but there aren't any Mazda in my area and had to drive about 45 mins to get to this one. Not sure i want to do that again and get stuck with the same kind of deal
As far as mpg, I am getting 29 mpg on my first tank. I drive 18 miles to and from work 5 days a week. The one thing I loved about the accord when I test drove it was the passenger side mirror camera showing 3 car lengths behind you when you turned on the right hand turn signal.
In terms of pricing, I got mine at the largest volume dealer in the US and fsubrett, correct me if I’m wrong, you have a 42 month lease which lowers your monthly payment significantly vs a 36 month lease so you can’t use it as a comparison.
The nationally advertised lease deal at the mazdausa website has a 39 month lease for $269/month with zero due at signing so you would have only 38 payments (though I’m not crazy going past the warranty period). It includes the lease inception fee of $595 (that’s probably the $895 marked up fee by your dealer). You would need to add the dealers doc fee and your title/registration. Where I live, that would add $700 to the cap cost so the payment would be $290 plus tax. Keep in mind, nationally advertised leases usually have a nice profit in them for the dealer so you should be able to do better.
As I mentioned earlier, I love my bells, whistles and styling. There is a ton of available technology on the Touring and even more on the GT but if I had to consider only the base model, I would have seriously considered the Accord LX. As a matter of fact, since I have been forgetting to turn on my headlights for over 40 years, I would have definitely gone with the Accord since the base has auto on/off and you need the Technology Package on Touring model to get that.
People go to Mazda because they usually have the sportiest rides in their segments. If that isn’t your thing, the Accord may work best for you, both in terms of the car itself and your local pricing. (Check out the Prices Paid board for the Accord first). . It has aced all the IIHS and NHTSA crash tests. The Mazda has done well on the IIHS tests but yet to be tested by the NHTSA.
And don’t get too excited about the passenger side camera that fsubrett mentioned. It is not on the base model
It's also a shame that the dealer i went to, did not have a CTV automatic in stock. Only had the stick shift which doesn't have the LCD screen with the bluetooth and all. So i didn't get to see that.
I'm sure the Touring and Grand Touring have awesome features but they would certainly be priced out of my range. I agree that the LX has more bang for the bucks from the Mazda 6 i-Sport from what i could see and read.
Thanks for the info. I'll now give the Accord a test drive
Could you please find out the money factor and residuals for a base 2014 Mazda6 i Grand Touring and the i Touring with automatic transmission for 36mo/15k miles per year in the Philadelphia, PA region. Thanks!
Thanks for the service you provide! I would like to obtain the current money factor and residual for a 2014 Mazda6 GT AT. The term would be 36 months @ 15,000 mi/yr. I am in Central Florida.
Thanks!
I also would like the lease numbers on a 2014 Mazda6 Grand Touring (with Tech Pkg) for 36 months and 36K miles.
I am looking to lease this month because my current lease is up soon. Thank you!
In a lease, you lose everything you pay at signing so I recommend you put all fees into the lease.
The residual is based on the lease term and miles per year and is not negotiable. Higher the residual, the lower the payment. Less miles per year will give you a higher residual and lower payment.
Payment is based on a formula using the residual, money factor and capitalized cost( the largest component of your capitalized cost is the selling price of the car). You need to find out the money factor for your credit level and the residual percentage, calculate your target capitalized cost that includes selling price/doc fees/lease inception fee/DMV fees, etc and then come up with the payment. You will negotiate from there. Don’t just ask dealers for their monthly payment quote. One dealer might be significantly lower than others but if you do the math, you could discover he is charging you MSRP for the car.
Does anyone else have a rough estimate on what the August MF and Residual value is for a 2014 Mazda 6 Grand Touring for 36 months with 12,000 miles per year? (New England market if that matters)
I have also e-mailed some dealers and I am waiting for a response, but I'd like to compare to an unbiased source.
It's only a 1% residual deduction for 15K/yr... (59%)
Dealers are allowed to mark up the money factor a maximum of .00050
regards,
kyfdx
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