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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • brycarbrycar Member Posts: 10
    No i dont think theres anything to fix that it does that on one of my buddys trucks
  • walker7walker7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Ford F-150 4x4 and all of my rear light are failing. I have no break lights and no reverse lights. I have check every fuse and changed all of the bulbs and still nothing works. However i do not have my manuel and i dont know exactly which fuse pretains to the rear lights. Is there anyone out there who has the fuse panel diagram and can tell me which number fuse is the one i need to specificly check and change? Or if anyone may know any other possible things that could be causing this.

    Thank You Very Much

    Chris
  • colombo1colombo1 Member Posts: 2
    My 1989 F250 stalls at nearly every stop, unless I "feather" the clutch while stopping any ideas? I get the standard TPS and EGR codes and have replaced both to no avail over the years. replaced the TFI module a couple of years ago. Thanks for any help -Tim
  • colombo1colombo1 Member Posts: 2
    If everything is out, it sounds like no ground. As the different lights run off of different circuits. Good Luck Tim
  • rayf250rayf250 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for replying, well how do they deal with the pedal like that? I have tried to reposition my foot so it does not move but thats impossible.
  • 97f15097f150 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 F150 XLT - 4.6. My truck will start but does not hold idle speed so engine stops. Until recently, this was infrequent, however, truck will not run know. As long as I press the accelerator the engine runs. I have changed the fuel filter to no avail. I have approx. 128K miles. The interesting thing is that a buddy of mine has a 2001 - same engine and miles, and haas started to experience similar problems. Any ideas??? I plan to check the TPS next.
  • rayf250rayf250 Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased an 2005 f-250 5.4, after I got the truck I noticed that Ford had changed to a elec. throttle instead of a cable, whenever I drive on rough roads I cannot keep the pedal still an the engine responds to this.How can this be fixed.Or is there a fix for this?
  • danield17danield17 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on a 93 f150, it was the speed sensor, usually mounted in the rear of transmission, mine was in the rear axle housing. Speed sensor controls all the things you mentioned as well as cruise if equiped.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Sounds like you've got a problem with the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve). It's either plugged or not actuating and not letting air into the motor during idle. When you first start truck, the throttle plate is closed, the IAC is used to modulate the air flow into the engine while the truck is warming up. Once you step on the gas the throttle plate opens up and lets air in the regular way.

    It's a common problem with the Ford modular engines. You can pull it out and try to clean it, or I think Autozone sells an aftermarket replacement for $~75. The IAC fault doesn't always report an error code that can be read with scanner.

    If it's not the IAC, you can also check that the Mass Airflow sensor (MAF), and the throttle position sensor (TPS) are both working properly. They usually throw a code. Also check all the vaccuum lines for leaks - especially the few that go through the firewall - they tend to get brittle where they go penetrate the firewall - the leaks are sometimes hard to find
  • rayf250rayf250 Member Posts: 4
    Go to auto store and buy a scanner for the diagnostics on the computer.It will tell you if any of the sensors are working or not. Then start the process of elimination from the simplest things like the fuel filter.It sounds like your fuel pump is not holding preasure
  • jgustinjgustin Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem...you darn near have to remove the entire engine to get to that ??bolt?? Did you ever figure it out. I have 93 F250 with the same problem.
  • danp5danp5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 F250 Supper Duty 4X4 Diesel with automatic transmission. When I go highway speeds say for maybe an hour and then start to exit the highway and slow down the transmission make a high pitch sound like it can't find the lower gear to shift into. If I just excellerate then it goes in gear and comes down fine. Does anyone have an idea what could be causing it to miss the gear?
  • basshymanbasshyman Member Posts: 8
    Has anyone seen their letters yet? I thought the parts were coming in the middle of November.

    Thanks!
  • gstacygstacy Member Posts: 1
    This happened to me twice on two different fords. The first ford found that the Idle Air valve was sticking.Try to free it up hitting it with a screwdriver handle or something simmilar. Easy to replace cost abouht 75 bucks at the Ford dealer. The other time found a faulty diode in the aternator Only able to find it by putting a scope on it.
  • dedenddedend Member Posts: 1
    My 97 F150 ids doing the same exact problem you are having it started tuesday, but now it cotinues and won't stay runing unless you keep your fot on the gas. did you try any of the solutions the others talked about?
  • jimn3jimn3 Member Posts: 2
    I too have a new (9,000 mi) 2005 SCREW w/moonroof as well and have both of the problems you mention. The headliner rattle and the rear end clunck on acceleration. The clunk seems to happen only when the engine is cold. Goes away after warm up.

    I had it in to the dealer for the headliner rattle. As you said it is very annoying. It even rattles just closing the door firmly. The dealer told me there were some sort of spacer blocks between the roof and the headliner that they managed to "shim up" with tape or something without having to remove the entire headliner. Im not sure I believe that but whatever they did seemed to solve the problem for a couple of months, but now it is coming back.

    Have you had any luck with either of the problems? The clunking in the rear end or tranny has me the most concerned. I'll take it in to have the dealer look at that in the near future.
  • glennmglennm Member Posts: 1
    Hell, I am having the same issue. What ws the resolution to this problem? Thanks - Glenn
  • warriorcoachwarriorcoach Member Posts: 17
    Check mess. #1591. I had it serviced but the problem is back. I also took the light out myself to diagnose the problem that they could not find. There are two hard rubber bumpers on either side of the dome light that are not in contact with the piece of metal between the headliner and the roof. I think this metal supports tracks that the moonroof cover travels in. I am going to try to Velcro the bumpers to the metal or glue a soft foam between the bumpers and the metal. Thank goodness I don't have the vibrations like some others are describing. I love the truck but I hope I can get the TRANS. problem fixed. Another local Ford dealership told another SCREW owner I know that there is no fix for the problem. :confuse:
  • tyresmokertyresmoker Member Posts: 266
    I have not had my "clunk" looked at yet, but it is definitely getting worse. Mine happens every time I take off from a complete stop, normal takeoffs, no jackrabbits.
    Also, have you experienced a constant motor tick? It sounds like a lifter wrap from the old days..Since it started to get cold out, it is more noticable. It does not go away once the engine warms up.
    I just turned 5k miles..I hope this is not a sign of things to come...Btw, I have an '05 S/CREW 4x4 King Ranch with all the toys including the 3.73 limited slip & trailer tow.
  • warriorcoachwarriorcoach Member Posts: 17
    Yes, it only happens on normal takeoffs. I have the motor tick/lifter souns also, but only when I have the air or heat on - it seems like.

    '05 SCREW 4X4 XLT and I also have the 3.73 rear and tow pkg.
  • mongo2mongo2 Member Posts: 2
    I hate to join the Bandwagon, i bought a 2005 f150 stx 4.2 cyl about a month ago. The steering wheel vibrates and
    it pulls to the left even on a flat even highway.

    1st trip to the shop they balanced and rotated the tires,
    measured the axles, checked hub run out and said its
    "much better".
    Sorry but much better and fixed are two different things
    in my book.
    It came back worse than before and is back in the shop
    as we speak.
    So it was there 2 days last week and today makes it
    3 days this week so far.
    I did make them give me a rental this time :-).
    So i cant complain too much yet, i have a 05 f150
    Quad cab to drive :-).
  • jteleskyjtelesky Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for the input. Once again My f-150 stx supercab will be going back to the shop. Bought it Sept 23, has less that 600 miles on it and still vibrates and dribbles after hitting any irregular road surface. Dealer and Ford rep (Engineer) have analyzed my truck on two "checkups" replacing an array of parts plus tires. As you stated dealer says its improved and its the nature of the beast. In shop for 20 days total. Please keep us posted as I will do the same. I have asked for a new truck or equal collateral. Otherwise I like the truck.
    Waiting for reply from dealer and Ford Motor Co..
  • jbudjbud Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 F-150 2wd with the 4.6L. The problem I am having is when I first start the truck I have no gauge movement for about a second or two then all of a sudden it chimes one time(like you leave the lights on with the key out of the ignition) then all the guages( oil, temp, speedo, rpm) redline for about two seconds then it resets itself and is fine. It just started doing this. It doesn't seem to be causing any problems so far any help would be appreciated.
  • brookshdbrookshd Member Posts: 8
    Throttle shouldn't be that sensitive. I suggest slowing down and/or cruise control.
  • brookshdbrookshd Member Posts: 8
    Mine does that too, at higher speeds. I know it's coming from hard wired cell phone and or cb antennaes. If you're not sure, unscrew your sticks and test fly.
  • brookshdbrookshd Member Posts: 8
    Mine is newer, so water drain may be in a different location. Mine is a yellow "lever" at the bottom of the throttle body with a drain tube. I do it with engine running. Check owners manual to be sure.
  • brookshdbrookshd Member Posts: 8
    Don't stomp it to the floor like a gasoline motor. Mine will totally cut out when I do that. The turbo diesel will pass pulling a trailer, very nicely if you accelerate enough to force a downshift, you don't need much more throttle than that.
  • flounder4flounder4 Member Posts: 1
    I have experienced somewhat the same problem with my 1999 F250 Super Duty 4X4 with transmission leaks. I have 174K miles and have had little or no problems with it. However, 1 year ago I was backing a 22' trailer into my driveway which has about a 6% grade up into my yard. The trailer had surge brakes and it had my truck stopped. However, not knowing the surge brakes were being applied, I kept giving it the gas but nothing was moving. A good deal of tork was being applied by the engine and the transmission. I then notice that transmission fluid was almost pouring out near the front of the transmission...probably one to one and a half quarts onto the ground. After I parked the truck and refilled the transmission fluid back up. I left the truck to cool off and started it back up and there were no leaks any more and I didn't have a problem again for over a year until just recently. This time I noticed the transmission shifting rough for almost a full day. When I got home, transmission was again pouring out...maybe a 1/8" steam.

    Is there an "over pressure" or some type of valve in front of the transmission which would allow this to happen. I'm almost afraid to drive the truck now. Can anyone tell me what is going on.

    Thank you.
  • mongo2mongo2 Member Posts: 2
    Well I have the truck back, and its not fixed.
    They replaced the drive shaft and said its a little better,
    in reallity its worse.
    I have to wait 4 weeks for them to get 2 new tires in,
    supposebly only one place that makes these tires and
    there backlogged.
    Meanwhile I have to drive the truck and put up with
    the vibrations. :mad: :mad:

    Does anyone know how widespread this problem is with
    the 2005?
    Thanks
    Mongo-
  • galey1galey1 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 1998 Ford 150, V8, 4.6 (Triton) that has only 47,000 miles on it. This truck has been taken care of and has had no problems until the last year or so. About six different times now, the engine has started missing and it's always the #4 spark plug. Somehow moisture is getting on it. We have changed all the plugs,and plug wires. We thought maybe the heater hoses was the culprit, so they have been changed. We have even switched the coils side to side. But the problem keeps happening from time to time. Always the exact same problem. My husband is a good mechanic, but we also took it to a professional. Problem keeps happening. Does anyone have any advice. Would appreciate it!
  • pmtmechanicpmtmechanic Member Posts: 1
    I RECENTLY REBUILT A 4R100 FOR THE FIRST TIME AND EVERYTHING WENT GOOD EXCEPT IT DOES'NT HAVE THIRD GEAR NOW. FIRST GEAR SECOND GEAR OVERDRIVE AND REVERSE WORK JUST FINE BUT TRANS SKIPS THIRD AND GOES INTO OVERDRIVE. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.
  • michmich111michmich111 Member Posts: 1
    I am in the process of purchasing a 2005 F150 V8 and was wondering if there is a break in period that I should not tow? I need to tow a uhaul trailer and I wanted to see if I should do this or not with a brand new truck. Thanks!!
  • 1madsledder1madsledder Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 ford f-150 and my question is has anyone had/have a right front axle seal leak between the half shaft and the tube axle. How do you get the axle out of the tube after the half shaft is off. I see no bolts or anything? Please help!!
  • blakethesnakeblakethesnake Member Posts: 1
    I have a F250 4X4 crewcab that has an electrical problem. Has 3.34 amp draw from the battery. Battery goes dead after 2 days. Replaced alternator, battery, removed dash cluster and amps drop to 2.95, unplug PCM, 0 draw. Hook up either dash or PCM and problem occurs. any ideas??
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Doesn't necessarily mean the PCM is bad, it could just be activating a component that is. Try pulling relays and fuses until you hit the circuit that's causing the problem, then troubleshoot that circuit.
  • f250guyf250guy Member Posts: 9
    I've got a 2004 f250 super duty 4x4 with a 6 liter diesel. At times when idle'ing it will get verrry quiet... for about 4 seconds. Then comes back. In addition to that there is a scraping/thud sometimes seconds after starting... any ideas? thanks! Guy :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The a/c sometimes causes a thump soon after startup. Try starting with the a/c completely off (not just the fan), to eliminate it.
  • 390feking390feking Member Posts: 4
    Hi texvet im new to this site however I own a 72 F-250 2wd the steering can be a number of things but the first thing to check is the rag joint between the steering box and your steering shaft they are of a rubber and cord type material and wear fast especialy if engine fluids leak on it, it will soften the rubber and cause alot of play in steering brake fluid is real bad on it. They are easy to replace I have replaced mine three times in eight years that i have been driving it this is a common thing for theses old trucks, the gear box can wear out too after all its only 34 yrs old it doesn,t owe you a thing. My truck is in very good cond,t was a daily driver until this fall now its going into storage for the first time in 34 yrs for the winter, as i now have over 10k invested in it. Its days of work are over now it gets to play in nice weather only, besides i cant afford the gas for it as a work truck it only gets 7mpg idling with 110 octane built up 390cid. I now own a 1996 F-150 4x4 for work. Let me know what you discover about this steering thing. I have a wealth of knowledge about 67-72 trucks and reasonable amount of parts a sources for them. Tim :blush:
  • cincifordmancincifordman Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to replace front brakes & rotors on a '96 F-150 XL. Problem is that both rotors are stuck, and not wanting to budge. I have already purchased new rotors, and am not really trying to salvage any part of the old ones so not too worried about how many pieces they come off in. Any ideas or suggestions??? Thanks!
  • f250guyf250guy Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info Mac24. This is with everything off..first start of the day...any advice on the idle noise..also my dipstick is impossible to read accuratly. I am begining to get worried about having to much oil in the truck. Reads the same wther I add 3 quarts or remove... :cry:
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Is it a 2wd or 4wd? With 2wd you've got to remove the dust cap on the rotor, pull the cotter pin, and take the big nut off of the axle. Then pull on the rotor - the front bearing should pop out and then you can pull the rotor off.

    I'm not sure on the particulars for 4wd front end. I assuming you've got to remove the front hub and bearing assemblies before you can remove the rotor. Pick up a Haynes or similar manual for your truck to see the details for a brake job.

    Are you planning on replacing or just cleaning and repacking the wheel bearings?
  • pickupman1pickupman1 Member Posts: 2
    Well I found what the vibration was. After tearing the rear apart I found a spider gear assmbly, side gear was worn. Why??? Not sure so i just installed a "new" rear and problem is gone. The drive shaft may be bent but most if not all vibration is gone. Thanks for the replys
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The 6.0 has a whole bunch of interesting 'characteristics' and the idle may be one of them. There's another forum with a fairly obvious name that I'm not allowed to mention here, that has a section devoted to the 6.0.

    As for the oil level, there's only one way to be sure, and that's to drain the existing oil and refill with exactly the specified amount. Then check the dipstick to see, and if necessary mark, the level at which that amount rises to.
  • jimn3jimn3 Member Posts: 2
    So has anyone had any luck with their dealer fixing either the clunk on take-off or the headliner rattle? It sounds to me like these are probably design defects that Ford must be getting a lot of complaints about.

    Has anyone had their dealer acknowledge the clunk problem and say that Ford has issued a "dealer advisory" or anything?

    I haven't taken my '05 SCREW in for the clunk yet but I don't intend to accept "it's normal" or "there is no fix" for an answer. At the very least I plan on demanding an extended drive train warranty. We'll see what happens.
  • farmersmikefarmersmike Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 f150 supercrew and every other week the truck wont start, it cranks fine but just wont start? I did notice that the "anti theft" light continually flashes. It has done this 4 times in the past and each time after a long period of inactivity (6hrs or so) it will start. The dealer claims they cant help me unless I bring it in in a failed state. Can anyone help me with this?
  • cindywoof1cindywoof1 Member Posts: 1
    Try taking off the negative battery terminal cable for a couple of minutes and then put it back on. The computer gets whacky sometimes and this may reset it. It worked for me with the same problem.
  • junkyardjimmyjunkyardjimmy Member Posts: 4
    Have you tried a tune-up? Plugs, wires, cap & rotor, cleaning throttle body of coking etc.
  • junkyardjimmyjunkyardjimmy Member Posts: 4
    Hate to tell you, but it sounds like the center support inside the tranny is bad. Most likely gonna need a new tranny if you want to fix this problem.
  • junkyardjimmyjunkyardjimmy Member Posts: 4
    Fuel pressure is good, coils appear to be good, altenator checks good, cleaned throttle body, has new sparkplugs. Never sets a code. I am leaning toward bad injectors or an ECM. Has anybody got any other ideas?
  • walterkwalterk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 F-150 with 26K miles and there seems to be a strange grinding noise coming from either the drive train or transmission. I'm only able to make it happen when driven for a while, parking it for ~10 minutes and beginning to drive it again. Can't tell where it's coming from exactly as it only happens for ~ 10 seconds and goes away.
    Any idea as to to the problem??
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