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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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  • lwheelerlwheeler Member Posts: 1
    1994 F 250 7.5 manual trans.

    When I have the negative battery cable disconnected I get 12.7 volts between the cable and the negative battery terminal. I have disconnected the starter, alternator, and removed all of the fuses and replaced them one at a time to determine which circuit might be the problem. This is where I get lost as I have five fusses that all trigger the problem. I have even traced it to the next fuse box and have found the following areas to be the problems.

    Audio Power
    Fuel pump relay
    Trailer brake feed
    Courtesy dome light, radio clock memory, speedometer, warning buzzer.
    Door locks
    ABS, Electrical control, Cruise control.

    I can find nothing in common with these elements that would be causing the problem.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    First, you need to be measuring the amount of current that's being drawn instead of voltage. That would be in amps rather than volts (hopefully milliamps!).

    The radio memory will definitely be drawing something, and probably the audio power will as well. Start by putting your meter on its highest amperage setting so you don't overload it if something is drawing heavily, then gradually step down and take note of the readings.
  • rdumond259rdumond259 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 95 ford f250 with a 5.8 .. engine codes 321 171 exhaust maifolds are getting red when driving red hot .. loss of power .. and when it cools down the exhaust maifolds turn white thank you for any help
    :sick:
  • rcrolarcrola Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find out what the problem was. I'm having the same problem, but only in cold weather.I lose oil pressure off and on when first starting my truck.
  • dyitecsterdyitecster Member Posts: 1
    I'm hoping one of you ultra electrical savey people can shed some light on my problem (pun intented). My brake lights have quit working on my "94" F-250. I've checked the fuse and the brake switch both of which are good, and I have current to both. My flashers work as do my turn signals. I'm wondering if the brake light on the back of the cab is in series with the actual brake lights and if that bulb is bad could that be why the lights in the back of the truck won't work, a long shot I know but I'm getting desperate. I have a large fiberglass topper on the truck and didn't want to remove it if this wasn't a possability.
  • rcrolarcrola Member Posts: 2
    When I start my truck the oil pressure gauge fluctuates from no oil pressure to normal oil pressure for a period of time. After a short period the oil pressure will stay ok. seems to happen mainly in cold weather.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's probably the pressure sensor, but if it's not you could have a more serious problem. You can either replace the sensor, or check the oil pressure independently, preferably with a mechanical gauge. You can probably buy one for less than it would cost to have it checked at a shop.
  • jbrooksjbrooks Member Posts: 2
    I have Excusion which is a 250 also.Mine is a powerstroke and I had that problem also.but all my electic inside would actup, Inotice it was doing rainy weather mostly.had it checked they did not find a problem,
    i drove the truck from fl.to va.the next day and back and every day since and nock on wood I still dont know what caused that to happen.If you find out let me know
  • jbrooksjbrooks Member Posts: 2
    I have a f-350 drw 4x2 the rear end was replaced after a accident and it shaked every time i put on brakes,so they said it just a ford problem. but it was a bad rear end now I have to replace it.
    do anyone know the best replacement for this truck which only pull a boat of 6000lb sometime,if so reply.
  • tolak2tolak2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 F-150 Supercrew with 83K miles. It has recently had stalling issues on several occasions. It has stalled at idle and in park, stalled at a red light, and stalled going 55mph down the road. There are no warnings and no check engine light. Any ideas?
  • patl13patl13 Member Posts: 2
    I just recently bought a 1997 Ford F 150 LT (4.6L). So far its been a great truck. I'm trying to figure out how the 4x4 on the fly works. Actually how the 4 wheel drive works as a whole. Its my first time owning a 4x4 vehicle. Do all 4 tires move at once? Is it limited slip, how do I even know the 4 wheel drive works? I've put the truck in 4 wheel drive and the light on the dash comes on but does that mean the 4 wheel drive is actually working. If anyone has any helpful advice it would be greatly appreciated
  • path2path2 Member Posts: 3
    Please refer to path2 messages. I had trouble starting my 2001 F250 Diesel when the temperature drooped to 35 or below. When I came back from Alaska I took it to Anderson ford here in Omaha and they correctly diagnosed a faulty fuel injection relay switch. They replaced it for me and now I have no more problems starting the truck in cold weather. Hope this helps someone else out there.
    Path2.
  • tigmastertigmaster Member Posts: 2
    i also have a 2005 f150 4x4 that sounds like the same problem . kinda sounds like a muffler draging down the road .very loud then goes away? i took mine to the dealer ,they replaced the trans module. that didn't solve the problem . i dont know what it is, i was hoping for some help here as well.
  • derekparkerderekparker Member Posts: 4
    Hi, i have a 1995 ford f-150 truck A/T, V-8, 5.0L engine

    I was under my truck and at the bottom of the transmission is a hole about the size of a half dollar. i think it used to have some sort of rubber plug/cap covering it, but it is no longer there. I can see inside the hole what appears to be the flywheel, if that helps you visualize where the hole is.

    the truck runs fine and has transmission fluid in it. I think that cap/plug that is missing is not or was not holding fluid/oil.

    What is that hole for, and most importantly what is that cap called or what do i tell the auto part store i need so i can replace it.

    thanks very much. you can also email me at parkerduplexes@austin.rr.com
  • jlowe1jlowe1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 F-150 and recently it started to make a grinding sound at intermittent times. It stops with a "clunk" as I come to a halt. I have taken it to a dealer and of course when they drove it, the noise did not occur. It seems to be eminating from the transmission area. Anyone with a similar problem? :confuse:
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Not sure what the title refers to, but what you're describing sounds like the drain at the bottom of the bellhousing. The bellhousing is a casting that connects the transmission to the rear of the engine and contains the torque converter (or flywheel and clutch in a manual transmission). If the transmission, torque converter, or rear crankshaft seal leak, then the fluid can escape through that hole, rather than build up inside.
  • tigmastertigmaster Member Posts: 2
    i have the same problem with a 05 f-150 4x4 only 4000 miles. i have been looking here for help also ,dealer cant find the problem . the grinding sound is very loud kinda sounds like a muffler draging under the truck. then the " clunk" and its gone . this only last for 5 to 20 seconds then it goes away. i have read a few messages with the same problem but no one has any solutions.
  • ltgileltgile Member Posts: 1
    When traveling over 30mph and under 65mph and when ever the rpm drop anywhere between 1300 and 1600rpm the engine begins to sputter. Anyone have any idea's what could be wrong.
  • derekparkerderekparker Member Posts: 4
    thank you for the reply. I don't know much about engines, so i apoligize if my title is ?????.

    that hole used to have some sort of plug/cap. Do you know what it would be called or where i can get a new one???

    thanks
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    It's not something you need to worry too much about, but if you want to replace it I'd drop by the Parts Dept. at your local Ford dealer. Just describe it as a fitting that goes at the bottom of the bellhousing. I doubt that it'll be more than a couple of bucks.
  • derekparkerderekparker Member Posts: 4
    thank you very much for your help!!!!
  • ewagenaarewagenaar Member Posts: 1
    I have2004 F150 4X4 and had the same - loud grinding sound occur while traveling. When I stopped - there was a shifting sound and the noise stopped. The sound was very loud..I cannot imagine this being a minor problem. The truck trans. already vibrates/stutters a lot when accelerating. Any solutions to this. I am stationed in Germany and there are no dealers here. I will need good info to provide the mechanic. EW
  • matt34matt34 Member Posts: 2
    The noise only occurs now and then but normally happens when I accelerate fast (normally on the onramp to a freeway) and sounds like I have just run something over that has hit the engine (a hard sounding clank). Sometimes I hear a fluttering sound in the engine above 60mph either with or without the clank noise. New noises are always disheartning especially after I have taken great care of my truck. The truck has 82000 miles.

    Does anyone have an idea as to the problem(s)?
  • rdumond259rdumond259 Member Posts: 4
    sounds like the i ack motor on top or side of the throtle body one plug two nuts its round about 5in long .. try to clean it first we change alot of them for stalling
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Did you check for a broken motor mount? Engine may be shifting as a result of the torque from hard acceleration. Fluttering noise could be an exhaust leak as a result of the movement.

    Had it happen many years ago, and fan would hit the radiator shroud when the engine shifted.
  • debcoopdebcoop Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Black F150 and the paint is beginning to crack under the clear coating I had put on. I believe if it wasn't for the clear coat the paint would have already started to curl up and peel. I am getting the run around on it from my Dealer. Has anyone else had problems with their paint jobs?

    Thanks
  • vibesoffordvibesofford Member Posts: 3
    Stick to your GUNS boys, It'll be worth your time, if you have all your ducks in a row(# of days out of service, RO's, all notes of calls to "Ford Customer Service", all notes of conversations at dealerships,etc.). Thats about all I'm aloud to say. The new body style F150 problems, vibrations, rear end clunk, and steering shudder, are what Ford calls "Characteristics of this Vehicle", but they have no fixes available, only excuse attempts to repair. Beware of purchase date, you have one year from date of purchase to benefit, also, beware of mileage, this is deductible as usage off of fair market price. Good Luck.... Vibes of Ford
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Just a reminder, as noted in the post box and the Rules of the Road (link in left margin), we highly discourage email addresses in your posts. When responses are made via email, they deny the rest of the members answers to questions they may have as well. Posting your email address also put you at risk from those who may use it maliciously.

    Thanks!
    kcram - Pickups Host
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Our 1987 F150 Supercab 4X4 has had a charmed, one owner life here in New England. Not many miles, never plowed, washed, detailed, and painted regularly, very good body and drive train, etc. BUT, I noticed rust through areas on the passenger side frame rail. The rusted out spots are (looking forward toward the front of the truck) right where the control arm bolts in and the frame then arches up near the front shock mount area. Yeh, I know it is 17 years old but to have the frame rot away? And not even on the more exposed to salt driver's side? Would it have rotted if it were a boxed frame?

    We'd like to buy a new truck. The Dodge Ram 1500 has caught my eye only because of the vibration problems with the F150 and the Dodge frame is boxed. Are we making a mistake? Is the F250 SD vibration free and is its frame boxed? Please talk to me. I had expected to get through winter with this truck.
  • matt34matt34 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the quick reply. I will check into your thoughts.
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    i felt i should respond since i drive an 87 f150.i do remember hearing on a tv commercial that the new fords do have a boxed frame.i would think a boxed frame might be stronger but would be prone to rust out.once the muck finds its way in there it will rust.i think i would stay away from the fords just because of all the problems i read about on these forums.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ..........I know it is 17 years old but to have the frame rot away? And not even on the more exposed to salt driver's side?

    I'm no flag waver for Ford, but complaining about rust-through on a frame that's seventeen years old and is exposed to winter road salt.............please!!!!! :surprise:

    Have a look at the 'Dodge Problems' forum and you'll see a lot of vibration problems there as well, though not as many as with the current F150. One alternative you might consider is an F250/350 Superduty. Similar pricing to the F150 and (virtually) no vibration issues.
  • mje1mje1 Member Posts: 1
    Had almost exactly the same symptoms with my 2002 F-250. Ended up being a faulty ignition coil. Replaced it and everythings runs great.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Mac24, thanks for the post. You're right: the F250 and F150 are identical in price and the F250 fares much better in resale. Is the frame the same for a F250 as on a F150? (I realize the suspension is different.) We're told that the boxed frame on the Ram 1500 is the same as the 2500 but that there are more cross members on the 2500.

    Please don't take me for a yuppie whiner about the rust through frame. I've never seen it happen before on anything we've owned (Jeep Grand Wagoneer, Cherokees, Grand Cherokees, Volvos, etc.) all of which are still in service and have seen many New England winters.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    The F250 has a different frame to the F150, and it's been in production for many more years. I can't remember whether it's boxed or not, but I don't think it's relevant as there are many vehicles with boxed frames that don't have vibration problems.
  • goldbargoldbar Member Posts: 1
    i geuss im one of the lucky ones,my 97 f-150 4x4 has 96000 mi. all i have done is the ex. manifold bolts, but now i have a shimmy at 35 to 45 mpr only when i am pulling our camper or towing my son`s GMC and cant figure out why. need some help thanks chuck :confuse: ">
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Mac24, thanks. No, I wasn't attributing vibration problems to boxed frames. I think that a boxed frame would in fact be preferable. The next time though I pop for a new pickup I'll do the Maine trick and spray used motor oil in a mixture of sawdust all over the bottom of the truck each fall.
  • jessedjessed Member Posts: 1
    the bed on my truck bounces everytime I go over small bumps or uneven surfaces. I had it checked out at the dealership but they told me that all the new 2005's do this but this is not normal. It seems to bounce and vibrate more on the drivers side. It is very annoying. They told me they tightened down the bed but it still does the same thing. How do I fix this?
  • rexborrexbor Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 F-150 and the plastic tailgate protector needs to be replaced. Is it glued on?
  • hottrodhottrod Member Posts: 1
    I have had this same problem with my F-150 (ignition coil)
    I have replaced two of them within 90,000 miles
    I wonder if there are alot of others with the same problems
    Im going to guess probably so....
    Other than this rather exspensive anoynce Im very happy with my F-150
    Leave it to Ford to build a vehicle with electrical problems.
    Go figure huh????
  • pbstpbst Member Posts: 4
    Hi guitarjim. I'm considering the purchase of a 2005 F150 XLT SuperCrew (2WD). But the many posts re: vibration problems give me pause. I'd be curious to learn if your emergency brake fix worked long-term. If so, I may move forward with the purchase, especially given the huge discount I've been offered ($22.5k vs. $31k MSRP).
  • instigator4instigator4 Member Posts: 2
    Is it difficult to change fuel filters on F50 diesels? How do you drain the water? and is that difficult?
  • jteleskyjtelesky Member Posts: 13
    Have called Ford Motor representatives and still waiting to hear from Ford regional representative. Still having the same dribble and vibration problem. Have written to my dealer but to no avail; they even ignore registered mail sent Nov. 8, 05. Truck has 800 miles on it. Will keep everyone posted and please do the same.
  • rarlaudrarlaud Member Posts: 2
    After turning only one time the next inspection 2 weeks later showed severe heat cracks on the rotors.

    Ford make some new rotors that are a little thicker and will stand up somewhat longer for the F-350. I haul heavy loads and the brakes have always been a problem.

    Last 6 months or less.

    rarlaud :cry:
  • rarlaudrarlaud Member Posts: 2
    I have had a new short block installed at Ford.

    When you take off from stop it accelerates like gang busters for the first 8-10ft and falls on its face. Afer a few seconds it runs normal and continues to excellerate.

    If you punch the accerator peddel 1 inch and let off the desiel will stall completely. Not much fun shooting cross an intersection.

    Removed chip and it still stalls.

    What?
  • winchelwinchel Member Posts: 1
    There is a new product out that was at the SEMA show. Exactbalance by IMI. It is a wheel weight that is put in the middle of your wheel. It has steel shot in the weight that moves at different speeds. We have done 6 Ford pickups with them and it cured the problem.
  • instigator4instigator4 Member Posts: 2
    Still looking for help in changing the fuel filter on my F350 diesel...Any help out there?
  • jallanjallan Member Posts: 2
    My 1998 F-150 Lariat ABS system began malfunctioning immediately after I replaced the left front brake caliper with a rebuilt and installed new bendix brake pads and bendix rotors. I have the 5.4 L engine with 72,000 miles. I believe I bled the system properly. The problem is that as I coming to a slow stop and am nearly stopped the ABS frquently actuates unexpectedly causing the truck to roll forward a foot or two further than I intended. This could cause an unsafe situation so I disconnected the fuse to disable ABS. My local independent garage could find no code called out. I have not yet visited a Ford dealer as I think they may have to spend a great deal of time on this. I hoped to solve the problem myself. Does anyone have any experience with this problem.
  • semacsemac Member Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    I just recently purchased a 2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab with the 4.0 liter/6cylinder engine with 95,000 km (Canada). The problem is I only get 250 km (150 miles) per tank of gas, is this normal? I called a Ford dealer and they say yes it is! This doesn't even meet the low end of their spec of 12mpg.
    I'll go broke keeping this thing filled with gas. Any suggestions????
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Saying you get 150 miles per tank doesn't really mean much, especially if the fuel gauge indicates empty while there's several gallons left.

    You need to calculate your mpg by comparing miles driven and gallons used. Make sure you measure it over several tank fills, and if possible check the accuracy of the odometer with a GPS.
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