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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • robersonroberson Member Posts: 1
    Had brakes done & afterwards, the abs brake light stayed on (solid, not flashing)(bought a year ago). Guy said he must of forgot to reconnect it ..bring it back. Never did, Recently had brakes done again (1 year later) and abs light still on (solid). abs light started flashing and right after that , cannot shift from "park" unless I turn on emergency flasher. Once flasher is on, can shift out of park to drive,reverse, etc.Then can turn off emergency flasher & continue on with no problem. But if placed back in park, must put emergency flasher back on to get out of park. Could these 2 problems be related(abs light & shift problem) Any sugestions?
  • sunnesunne Member Posts: 3
    Hey...jlowe1 i have a 04 SC and also have heard the same noise, it does not do it all the time, they think I am crazy....and also when i drive at 75-80mph, my truck sounds like it is falling apart with noises from the dash board..like cracking...popping noises..constant...steady noise. at that rate of speed on the interstate, have you experienced that yet? :confuse:
  • firstdaddyfirstdaddy Member Posts: 19
    After much wire chasing with my service manual, I found out that the cam positioning sensor was going in and out. With this sensor being bad, the computer does not know when to send the spark to the ignition coil packs, thus the engine would turn over but not start.

    Rgs, JLH
  • itbepopplesitbepopples Member Posts: 1
    im not too sure of what this problem is but my fathers 89 f150 xlt lariat (gas -2 tanks) has several fuel-related issues. first, the fuel guages never work. ever. second, whenever he switches to the tank he usually doesnt use after about 5 seconds the acceleration is choppy, the whole truck shakes violently and is just all around screwy. i dont know all that much about cars/trucks yet but am interested in getting this fixed as it is most likely going to be mine soon enough. does anyone know what the issue(s) might be?
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    While it's possible that both tank senders may be faulty, it's unlikely. The items common to both tanks are the switch and the associated wiring.

    The hesitant running after changing tanks could be caused by air in the line as the result of a faulty non-return valve, or an intermittant electrical fault in the changeover unit, switch, or the wiring in between.

    My personal knowledge pertains to the '93 model but the basics should be the same. I think I'd start by checking the connections and maybe changing out the switch.
  • kazuyakazuya Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my truck, well the noise was coming from a pair of metal hooks that are used to raise the engine out of the truck. It seems that the heat that the engine was generating manage to loosen up the welded edges and in return create a rattling even loud noise at times. The piece fell off I took to the shop and the technician reach in a pulled the other metal piece off. Hopefully this will fix your problem I know it did for me.
  • fliremanflireman Member Posts: 1
    Ignition coil problem. These are not the old fashioned coil wires. I have replaced cylinder # 8 ignition coil in June of 05 and #7 in Jan 06. My Supercrew is a 2002 5.4, 62,000 miles. It only costs $400 for diagnosis and install! The coil itself is $121 and $8 for a spark plug at Ford, everything else is diagnosis and labor.

    I have had several other people with similar trucks that have had this problem. The mechanic at the dealer stated it was occurring. Called Ford and they deny it is a problem. Apparantly the 2006 trucks have a better boot on them to prevent moisture intrusion.

    Symptoms are that the truck starts running a little rough especially on excelleration and it get worse until the check engine light comes on. It runs rough due to misfire and finally looses the cylinder power for the effected coil.

    Has anyone else replaced a coil in these trucks???
  • rosetreerosetree Member Posts: 3
    I am currently having the same problem with my engine. I have replaced 2 coil packs so far #3 and #8 within the last 18 months. I would love to replace the rest myself, but I am very cautious not to screw things up more. Is there a manual that will walk you through the proper steps of replacing the coils and spark plugs? The cost of replacing each coil and plug is around $325, ouch!
  • freestylegalfreestylegal Member Posts: 70
    I just had the same problem #1 cyl. 2002 F150 55,000 miles.My dealer recommended the coil, all new plugs and all new boots.Total price $700. My concern is: can I expect this to keep happening untill I replace all eight coils?
  • hooper234hooper234 Member Posts: 1
    Same problem for me on my F250...POS
  • black01f150black01f150 Member Posts: 1
    On 10-26-04 I purchased a 2001 Ford F-150 4x4. While going over the paper work they tried to sell me the Mechanical Breakdown Protection. I didn't want it, or hear about it but the Finance manager said they had to go over the contract, while going over the contract it was stated that the contract covers suspension parts (all of them) ball joints, tie rods, bushings, Ect. After hearing that, I decided to purchase the coverage. Recently I have had noises in my front suspension, I took the truck to the dealership, they checked it out, but couldn't repair the suspension because the protection company said the ball joints were not worn they are loose. The service writer at the dealership tried to get someone to explain the differance, but they sidestepped the question, and still won't cover the parts.

    I guess I'm here for advice on solving this problem, Calling the BBB?, or dealing with the dealership that prusured me into purchasing the contract.

    Any help would be appretiated.

    Josh
  • basshymanbasshyman Member Posts: 8
    Can't get the 4X4 to engage on my 97 F-150. You can hear it trying to engage but won't. Anybody got any suggestions?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Are they manual hubs, or automatic "shift on the fly?"

    If they're auto, you could have a small vaccuum leak going to the actuators - check the vaccuum hoses going to the hubs, one or more is probably brittle or cracked. If you don't find a problem there, start checking all the rest of the vaccuum hoses in the engine, a leak anywhere could affect vaccum pressure enough to prevent hubs from engaging.

    For manual hubs, possibly grease could've dried up. With 4x4 you should engage hubs once every month or so to keep everything lubed. Had problem on old F150, engaged manual hubs, then backed up to make them lock, but just kept hearing a chattering noise. Needed a trip to a mechanic to get them working again; he's the one that told me exercise the 4x4 once a month.
  • rosetreerosetree Member Posts: 3
    I just gave my dealer the go ahead to replace 7 coils and 6 spark plugs on my 2002 F-150 Supercrew. The remaining coil and plugs were changed earlier this year. The cost was $975 + tax. This saved me a whopping $900 ($268 - $115 coil, $8 plug, $70 diagnostic, $75 labor, as each one failed)plus the aggravation of taking it to the dealer. The book called for 3 hours to change the plugs and coils, but they charged only 2 1/2 hours. Every little bit helps. I have 120,000 miles on this truck and it is in great shape. I plan on keeping it for the long haul. I know that given the right instruction I could have done this myself, but at least I get a 12 month guarantee for their work.

    Good luck with your repairs. & watch out for the deer! :)
  • bfassettbfassett Member Posts: 17
    Have your dealer check the plugs.This year has a history of throwing plugs. The aluminum head is thin and only catches a few threads.Has been an ongoing problem. Look for examples in this thread. I know ,it happened to me. Be careful...
  • bfassettbfassett Member Posts: 17
    Have your dealer check the plugs.This year has a history of throwing plugs. The aluminum head is thin and only catches a few threads.Has been an ongoing problem. Look for examples in this thread. I know ,it happened to me. Be careful...Mine was on the # 3 plug and I had replaced a bad coil only a few thousand miles before.
  • warriorcoachwarriorcoach Member Posts: 17
    I have a rattle on the left side dash or steering column. Looked under neath and felt around but do not see anything obviously wrong. Have not taken anything apart yet. Anyone else had this noise?
  • uga91uga91 Member Posts: 1,065
    Sorry, warriorcoach. My 2005 SuperCrew is rattle free. Good luck on finding it.
  • joe101joe101 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 1985 FORD F350 460 4SPEED AND I HAVE STARTER PROBLEM WITH IT I HAVE CHANGED THE STARTER RING ON IT AND PUT 7 NEW STARTERS ON IT THEY WORK ABOUT 3 TO 4 DAYS AND THEN THEY ACT LIKE THEY WILL NOT GO ALL THE WAY INTO THE STARTER RING THEY JUST KICK HALF THE WAY IN I HAVE TRIED THE NEW AND THE OLD STARTERS I HAVE JUST ABOUT GAVE UP ON IT
  • lilozarklillilozarklil Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a new '06 F350 4x4-6.0 diesel and am having problems w/ regards to Continental tires and vibrations at 40/45mph, unusual wear, cupping and the need to have excessive amount of weights to balance tires and also looking for information on transmission slipping from 3rd to 4th gear. Anyone out there that has had these problems?
  • rosetreerosetree Member Posts: 3
    In my 2002 F-150 Super Crew, I can not get any air to come out of the floor vent. It seems to be diverted to the defrosters. I have an EATC (Electronic Automatic Temperature Control)with a button for floor, panel/floor, defroster etc...
    When I push the automatic button, all the air goes to the defroster. When I push the panel/floor button all the air goes to the panel. I ran the on board diagnostic by pushing the floor and off button at the same time and then the automatic button as Chilton suggests. The diagnostic ran, but no codes showed up. Any suggestions as to what the problem might be or how to isolate the problem? You help would be appreciated. :confuse:
  • umpire63umpire63 Member Posts: 19
    I have a 99 F-150 Lariat Supercab stepside,5.4L, 4X4. Somtimes when accelerating, the truck shakes. When I ease off the accelerator, the shaking stops, but when I accelerate again, the shaking starts anew. This does not happen all the time.

    Any thoughts on causes?

    In addition, the signal side mirrors have lost their "silver," and it is difficult to see out of them. This seems to be common as I have seen it on other F-150s.

    Can the lenses be changed out, or will I have to replace the entire mirror assembly?

    Thanks for your responses!
  • rollerdriverrollerdriver Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 f250 superduty that i bought wrecked and am in the rebuilding process.When i got it the only part of the exhaust that was there was the turbo down pipe and when you would start it as you can imagine you could really hear the turbo when it was at an idle.I started it up the other day and no turbo.I have put on a four inch exhaust since then and took it down the road and going up hill it has no power or acceleration at all.On level ground it seems to run ok up to 2500 rpms and thats the end of it.I have installed new fuel filters ,air filter,no holes in any of the hoses,checked the turbo bearing and its turning fine so it's not the bearings.Any ideas?
  • rollerdriverrollerdriver Member Posts: 3
    My 99 F250 did the same thing and what i found was my windshield was leaking and the water was running down the left windshield post trim panel and going straight in the fusebox.Hope it's that simple
  • dugupdugup Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty won't engage the front drive axle when I shift (ESOF) from 2WD to either 4High or 4Low. The drive motor on the transfer case will run (it cycles three times and quits) but nothing happens? The front axle will not engage. The motor is V10. The hubs are set to auto. The 4X4 light on the dash only lights during the test sequence when starting the truck. I'm the original owner and have used the 4X4 extensively until now. I had some diagnostic work done at Ford dealer and indications are the drive motor on the transfer case, but they were not real definitive. Since it is a $500+ dealer only part I was hoping for some other suggestions or alternatives?
  • sip1sip1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 with 12,000 miles I'm having the same problem there were rotated 3 times
    i"ve been battling with my dealor they don't want to doing anything about the problem there telling me it's an alignment problem I think the the tires just suck!
  • mike888mike888 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 F-150 4x4 - my battery drains overnight but will charge up and run. My air bag light comes on and off - my overdrive light comes on and off and my 4x4 light comes on and off - all at random times.

    My fan seems to run if I don't shut off the climate selector when I turn the truck off.

    Can anyone give me some suggestions? Thanks,
    Mike
  • denverwrzdenverwrz Member Posts: 2
    I own an 04 F150 crew cab XLT with the 5.4L motor. I just had my oil changed at 12k miles and the tech showed me the oil fill cap. It had yellowish sludge in it and he shook out what looked to be water. There did not appear to be any water in the oil it self. At least it looked normal. It is my 4th oil change since buying the vehicle new. Someone I work with has the same truck with slightly more miles on it and her cap was the same as mine. Any one notice this and is it a problem. Thanks
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Do you do a lot of short hops with the truck where it never gets to fully warm up? If so it's not getting a chance to boil off all the condensation, so it shows up as the milky sludge under the oil cap.

    If your coolant level is falling, however, it could be a sign of head gasket leak into the engine. Not very likely at 12K miles.
  • greymalkyngreymalkyn Member Posts: 2
    Frequently, my door ajar light will come on and the dome light will not turn off. I tried opening and closing all the doors, and cleaning out the sensors in all the doors. The dome light goes off when I drive, but when I stop, it comes back on. The door ajar light never goes off. I am driving an 2001 F-350 Super Duty. Any ideas?
  • rgettmannrgettmann Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1985 F 250 6.9 Diesel. The problem is with the interior panel corner strip where the seatbelt above the back of the bench seat. They are deteriorating on both sides(L&R) Have checked with several dealers They say that they are not any longer avaiable. The truck has 74,000 original miles. would like to keep it a little while longer. Any Ideas or can you put me in the right direction to purchase the items.
  • fras1fras1 Member Posts: 1
    My 98 F250 Light Duty does the same thing, except after its parked, the dome light stays on for a half hour or so, then turns off. The door ajar light never goes off. The problem originally seemed to be activated by only the passenger door, but now it is activated by both doors. I have found no reference to this problem in Chilton's manual. Any info would be appreciated.
  • pwrstrokinpwrstrokin Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F350 with crew cab and power locks with keyless entry. The locks are not working properly, they will lock or unlock but one time only. If you get it to lock they will not unlock right away, after driving for a bit they might but only once again. I took my battery cable off and it reset and worked one time again, if I keep taking the cable off it will work every time but only once.It acts like something is sticking and not resetting to operate again, any ideas? I have read where someone thought it might be the vehicle security module any input?
    UPDATE I have had my locks work as much as 10 times in a row and then they stop again, I hear a clicking from the VSModule that I have removed to inspect. I am thinking of buying a new one, doe's anyone know if you would have to have it programed for sure? Ford never gave me a clear answer one way or the other.Thanks


    Thanks PwrStrokin
  • 5ft195ft19 Member Posts: 1
    95 f-150 4x4, Multiple electrical problems.
    Dual fuel tank switch kills engine when switching to rear tank. (Both tanks are full)
    Lost speedometer & odometer readings, Over drive light flashes,
    On dash 4wd. switch, hi-low range lights come on 5 seconds after turning off.
    I checked headlight switch & harness for shorts and didn't
    find anything. (Suggested problem by auto electric tech.)
    Thanks for any help.
  • jkhageljkhagel Member Posts: 1
    95 F-250 XL 4x4, will not turn rear drive line in any gear and driveline is locked. Front line turns by hand as does the rear transaxle when diconnected. I noticed the transmission doesn't sound like it's engaging, but I can hear the engine react to clutch being engaged.I'm starting to pull the transfer case now, but I didn't know if anyone has seen a similar problem.
    Thanks
  • pranksterprankster Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 99 F250 super duty. It appears to be a ghost. At times I think I have it resolved, and then it comes back. It is highly intermittent on occasions a trip to the store it works fine then the ride home it is malfunctioning again. Sometimes a slam of the door corrects it.In the Haynes repair manual page 12-27 the dotted line area at the top of the page you see two relays and the central timer module this detects the door ajar status, and energizes the relays After a preset time the battery saver relay de-energizes in turn de-energizing the interior lamp relay. The relays are in the power distribution box. Don't know where to find the generic electronic module. Help me find it I might be able to troubleshoot it. Thanks in advance.
  • gap2gap2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F150 suppercab Lariat with a keyless entry and a driver side keypad, securilock anti-theft, and my door locks/unlocks stop working for all methods (keypad, remote, and on the inside door switch). I don't here any clicking when I try to lock/unlock them. I also tried disconnecting the battery but it still does not work. I was reading my owners guide and it talks about having to get the authorized dealer to "Deactivate/activate the power door lock disable feature" (page 107). Any ideas?

    I read some info on sticky actuators and also that they may get dirt/rust in them but I think it was addressing the 1997-2000.

    Checkout www.f150online.com/forums
  • f150bobblehe1f150bobblehe1 Member Posts: 1
    Two F150 Problems - Shaking and 4.6L Engine Ticking
    Shaking: :lemon:
    I bought a 2005 150 in August, in Sept. noticed a "shaking" pulling away from a car wash. Stopped the truck, applied emergency brake and released. Drove a bit with horrendous shaking. Applied same procedure, no result. Applied parking brake slightly while driving forward, shake worsened. Arrived at home and next day, no shaking. 1 month later my wife and family were driving the "mystery machine" and had to pull over - thinking they nad a flat tire. Checked tires, no flats, resumed travel - shake-shake-shake and then it stopped. Wife couldn't exactly describe the shake, so we drove together and I applied the emergency brake lightly and shake-shake-shake. No response or repair by service department as yet.
    Ticking: :lemon:
    The "gutless" 4.6L engine has a ticking noise after it warms up. Went to service at 1,000 miles. They told my wife that "All 4.6L engines do this." Have listened to several and they do not "All" do this. Seems to become noticable after warm-up indicating that a hydralic lifter is not retaining pressure, also notice a slight miss while the engine is ticking. Anyone else notice this ticking, rocker noise after warm up??
  • dmontzdmontz Member Posts: 1
    My problem is it wasnt starting i found out it had a broken
    actuator assembley.I took it apart but my problem is i cant
    get the actuator assembley to go slide in .Can anyone help or have good picture of the column and acuator
    THANK YOU
  • farmerted1farmerted1 Member Posts: 1
    I, After years of cursing my Ford for doing the same thing have the answer for you. I took it to a new dealership (sick of being robbed by the old one) for something else and they fixed it for free. The lubricant on/in the door sensors had dried up and become sticky causing them to fail intermittently. They popped the door-panels and lubed them. 6 weeks, no problems.
  • dmr1063dmr1063 Member Posts: 1
    My '05 F-250 4x4 doesn't appear to be shifting into 4WD Hi when I activate the ESOF on the dash. I have the hubs in AUTO and I can hear the selonoid activating but the vehicle doesn't "behave" as it's actually engaged.

    Has anyone else had this issue? I haven't had back to the dealer yet.
  • bobsf250bobsf250 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with the door ajar and interior light coming on for no reason. Farmerted1's answer is correct and the problem is simple to fix. Open the door and spray WD-40 in the door latch slot. This will lubricate the latch and sensors. I did this 4 years ago on my 1999 F-250 and my problem stopped immediately and has never come back.
  • dugupdugup Member Posts: 2
    See my post #1812. Similiar problem with my 2000 F250. I got some advice to check all the fuses to make sure they are not loose. I think there are three in cab panel and one under the hood that all provide some power the this circuit. Unfortuneatly, most of the folks I've talked to seem to think it's the solenoid motor. Ford wants over 500 dollars.
  • andreeandree Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 ford f-150 i put a body lift on it but my front end isn't level does anybody know if there is a downside to adjusting the torsion bars to lift it up an inch or two
  • bgfiremedicbgfiremedic Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 1995 F150 4x4 that is not charging after 15 to 20 minutes of running. We have replaced the battery and the alternator with new items. The voltage reading is around 13.8 volts but drops to around 10 volts after 15 to 20 minutes of running. The alternator was checked by the parts store and showed ok while running on the test equipment. The truck has been taken to two local repair shops and the problem is still there. Any hints or suggestions ? Thanks
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Defective alternator. Or perhaps I should say "defective voltage regulator." I believe it is built into the alternator on that model. After becoming hot the regulator is breaking down......
    Been there, done that, and got the T-shirt to prove it!!!!!
  • bigdave3bigdave3 Member Posts: 2
    To 1825. Just bought new 150 supercab w/ 5.4 triton. Truck vibrates big time. Dealer says must be tires. Tires are changed out. Vibration still exists. Dealer now says possible drivetrain problem. Dealer Tech calls Fri. 26 Jan 06 says a counter balance on truck body has been installed and vibration has been reduced. Scuttlebutt has it that Ford changed driveshaft venders, went to all steel shafts and new vender cannot turn them out true. I have been a loyal Ford buyer since '65; over 23 purchased units to date. Very ticked. Also, is the body skin very thin or am I losing it? bigdave3.
  • jackaggiejackaggie Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 F150 4x4 crewcab which I purchased in April of 2005. I have noticed a vibration (almost like rolling over a rumble strip) which occurs for a few seconds each time I begin to roll forward and my wheels are turned some (like at an intersection). The vibration stops as soon as I get over 10-15 mph. Anyone having this same problem? Does anyone know the solution to it?
  • lucas_pllucas_pl Member Posts: 1
    Hello i've a ford f350 4x4 (automatic shifting) 2004.
    When I'm starting the control of 4 wheel drive won't blink and shifting from 2wd to 4wd-high or 4wd-low isn't working.
    Solenoid motor is good when i get external power supply it's turning ,but i can't shift it form a 3-pos switch on the board. Has anyone know where are going cables from solenoid motor (2 cables orange and yellow )...
  • hipstrahipstra Member Posts: 4
    My 2004 F150 4X4,automatic, 5.4 liter has started the "Vibration Thing" at 21000 miles. When I make a sharp turn from a stop under acceleration the rear end / drive train vibrates severely. Also as I am straighting up from the turn it vibrates again.

    It appears to me to be the limited slip differential or posi-traction rear end. The posi-traction rear end has clutch plates that are engaged when going in a straight line. On road curves and sharp turns one side of the clutch pack should disengage to allow free wheeling on one side. I think the clutch pack is not operating properly. This was an old problem with the old posi-traction rear ends (1955-65) but the new stuff is not suppose to chatter around corners.

    I plan to take it to the dealer for repair under warranty. Either an oil additive to help release the clutch pack causing the chatter problem or a new clutch pack. The "Rice Burners" do not have this problem. Could this be a "Secret Recall" item from Ford?
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