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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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  • Big Dave and all the rest of the F 150 owners: Went through the whole process with my dealer and Ford. The vibration problem is called harmonics and Ford has serious design problems with the F-150. All else said the truck is an execellent vehicle. Solution...file for Lemon under your state guidelines. Make sure you keep very accurate records regarding repair attempts and outcome of each. Get repair invoices!!!!!!! Good luck to all and keep us all posted
  • Found this TSB from Ford which answers some questions and indicates that a new clutch pack in the limited slip is in order--not just adding some additive. Look at this link to get the TSB.

    link title
  • vmatvmat Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 F150 4.9L 2wd with a 5 speed manual. 100k miles. After driving for 10-15 miles, when shifting into 2nd and/or 3rd gear under load a loud screech from the transmission is heard. It does not do it when the vehicle is cold and as soon as you let off the gas or take it out of gear the sound stops. It also does not happen in 1st, 4th or 5th, although it feels like it is hitting a wall when you try to drive in 5th gear. The dealer says they can not find anything wrong with it. Has anyone else had something similar happen?

    Thanks

    Phil
  • I recently moved 1400 miles and all of a sudden my truck is loping runs good while driving but while idling sure runs bad, had tps , mas, o2sensors all replaced still have problem. will be replacing spark plugs. i too have the door ajar light and abs light on for the last 5 years. no problems though just annoying. can any one help me out at what might be the problem.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Sounds like a transmission bearing failure.
  • jleisjleis Posts: 1
    I have a 99 F250, I have been thru about 4 or 5 starters, anyone else? Also , this past winter, when I start it up it really smokes for quite along time when idling, any ideas?
  • I just took my 2005 F150 (Supercab 4X2, 5.4L)in for a serious problem with a vibrations in the chassis at certain speeds. It seemed that 50-55mph and 60-68mph cruising speeds are where it was mostly observed. Over a period of 1 year it became more constant / serious. It happens more often when you left off the gas at cruising speed for a few seconds then press it to maintain speed (before and just when it shifts back down to overdrive).
    The dealership came back and told the the whole rack and pinion system needs to be replaced. Acoording to wha the Ford Dealer told, the vibration is as you expected in your question I read. It will be interesting to see if this fixes the problem.
  • I have the exact same problem with my '91 F150 and I was just wondering if you figured out what the problem was yet.
  • I've a 2004 F 150 37k miles 5.4 motor.I use the truck to cruise mostly.i've a driveability problem the dealer can't correct(check engine light does not pop on)and they do not have a fix from Ford.They corrected it once then the fix went away for a few days.Truck hesitates like a carburated vehicle with improperly set float level.You all think it would be worth it to reprogram with a power reprogrammer just to make it driveable as new?Anything would have to be better than going roundy round with the service department.I like the truck, not the way it runs.

    This is a GREAT Forum for usable advice.thanks
  • Is the 4x4 light coming on on the dash when you activate your switch? I have a 2002 that I just had that problem with. My electric switch motor was seized up on the transfer case. I got one from a junkyard from a 2005 and it works fine now. Ford wants over 500 for one but Auto zone has it for 185. If you're looking for it, it's on your transfer case with the two electrical harnesses connected to it. There are three bolts on the driver's side to remove it. Previously, I had a problem when the 4x4 lights would come on and I could hear the transfer case engage but no 4x4. One time the hub seals were bad and the other it was the pulse vacuum hub lock solenoid. But either way you can still have 4x4 by manually overriding your lockers. I know this is kind of long but if it helps someone save some money, it's worth it. If anyone has any questions feel free to email me, it's in my profile. Good luck
  • Hi jtelesky!!,
    I have a 2005 F-150 XLT 4.6L 4x4 that seems to pull to the left a lot and to right sometimes. The steering feels scratchy/grinding off and on (started around 3500 miles) and the truck has been aligned 3 times and has only 4600 miles on it. I think I have started to notice the steering wheel vibrate/shimmy very slightly on the highway around 60-65 mph. I don't have a good feeling about this anymore. What do you think?? Any advice , etc?????

    Thank you very much ,
    Bill
  • I have 99 F250SD and have a few problems with 4 wheel actuation:
    You may want to check front lockouts. These are vacuum actuated, and prone to have the seals go out and back side of hub (I replaced my twice, lockouts went out both times because of rust). I now keep an eye on them ( I was slow to catch on). This can cause the lockouts to go out but I also had the vacuum lines get clogged with rust. I also replaced the shift motor once, but it sounds like its 'trying' to work. Are you sure its actually moving, and not binding up in transfer case.
  • I recently had a problem with my parking brake and didn't see any specific posts addressing it, so I thought I give you guys some hints on it.

    I have '02 XLT FX4 SC/flareside. I noticed my parking brake wouldn't hold as well, plus I was hearing a "clicking" sound at low speeds. Dealer pulled rear DS/checked u-joints, said everything was fine. A few weeks later (and about 500 miles out of warranty), went to use parking brake and pedal went to floor with no resistance. Went home and discovered both cables were off. Could hardly move the mechanism on backing plate where cable loops over. Pulled both rotors and found the mechanism that spreads the shoes was seized, plus the friction material was in pieces (clicking sound I was hearing). Was ticked at dealer for not finding and didn't feel like fighting, so I tackled this myself.

    It's two metal plates that scissor the shoes out, bottom plate has a small pin that goes thru top plate. I disassembled, greased and got new shoes at Autozone for $18. Discovered the adjusting screw was siezed and I couldn't get it loose, plus rotor would not fit over new shoes. The toothed portion is more like a bolt. Couldn't bust it loose with PB blaster or heat.

    Went to dealer, can't get JUST that part. They only sell entire backing plate assembly ($150), but said since I only needed the adjuster, that maybe they could knock a few dollars off (gee, thanks).

    Found the adjuster at Advance auto, but it was a special order and took two days to come in. They were $5 a piece.

    Hope this is helpful to anyone with parking brake hang ups. I have a friend who had same problem with his Expedition.
  • Is there any way to tell if my '95 F350 had a keyless entry remote at one time?
  • Wow, I've been looking through these different vehicle postings. I looked at Toyota and Nissan & I've been supprised how many of the Ford Posts for Problems are from back in the 90's and the 80's. And how few are from recent builds! I think I just decided to go with Ford. Everyone I talk to says it lasts & Lasts, I guess this is just one more indication!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Maybe you should look a little further back in this forum. My view, formed over the last few years, is the complete opposite of yours! :(
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Mac24, I have to agree with you on this point. Moderate also needs to note the types of problems with each make.....Seems that some were minor annoyances at best but plenty of them and other makes were some really major problems without much dealer support.
  • shineshine Posts: 20
    I am looking at a 2006 F 150 XLT with snow plow prep package. I am trading in a 2004 Ram 2500 Hemi in hopes of getting maybe 15 miles per gallon instead of 11 Does Anyone think this is possible or just about same as Ram
  • What is the proper torque for the oil drain plug on a 2006 4.6L engine
  • It will not be repaired to your satisfication. Read all about the problems.........
  • Tebucky: I have gone through all possible attempts to repair my 05 150, My advice file for lemon with proper records. By the way my dealer tried their very best but once again it is an engineering problem that Ford knows about. Create a good situation with your dealership and they should help in this matter. Do not accept the answer that the truck is heavy duty and it is the nature of the beast. Good luck and do your homework.....
  • Shine
    What size truck? What size engine? What drivetrain?
  • jlcjlc Posts: 30
    Hi everyone, I am thinking about buying an 06 F150 XLT Supercab, but after reading all the vibration problems am not sure I want to take the chance. I really like the truck. Has anyone heard of the problem with the 06's ?
    thanks
    Joe
  • Vibration caused by clutches in posi-traction rear end was resolved by the dealer in Durham, NC. Dealer replaced clutch pack under warranty and no vibration has returned after 1 week. Much smoother operation overall.

    Many thanks to Jackaggie for supplying the TSB(See message #'s 1838/1840). I offered the TSB to the Dealer but they were familiar with the problem. Now checking for any leaks at the rear end. Ford is trying to offer reliable trucks but has a ways to go.
  • OKAY BOYS, Anyone with an F series or E-150, 250, 350 try and figure this one out??? 1996 Ford E-350 460 V-8 super duty... alternator replaced a year and a half ago 130 amps, and replaced feb,14,2006. new battery feb,14,2006... to start with voltage gauge inside shows about 10 volts, it use to show 14.5 before the van died last week. now with a new battery and new alt, voltage is lower, amp light comes on, then all systems start to slowly shut down, abs light comes on, overdrive light flashes, tranny starts to shift hard or not at all, then dies after about 4 miles of driving... So it's telling me that the voltage has droped so low anything electrical is now done for!!! I checked the alternator with a voltage meter and it showing only 11.5 volts going back to the battery... I checked the new battery and it's showing about 11.75 volts. Whats the problem? (1.)Voltage regulator on alternator, (2.) brushes in alternator, (3.) or is there some other problem??? all wires have been checked and are in good shape. all fuses have been pulled and current is flowing through 3 large 60 amp fuse busses under the hood in the data control box, with the key in the off position??? anybody else have one of these peices of crap!!! rguyer1@yahoo.com
  • Hello,
    My 1991 F150 XLT Lariat, usually very dependable, would not start yesterday. There was no inside light and the gauges did not work. I took battery and had tested and then replaced. The truck started and ran for 30 seconds and then died. I started a second time with same result. This morning I went out and tried to start. This time, no lights or movement of gauges. I crossed the cellenoid and no sparks. Looking forward to help from someone with more knowledge of trucks than I possess. Thank you. Mike
  • I bought my 2005 crewcab in august. I noticed that it had a slight something in the frontend but the dealer said that it was because the truck had been sitting on the lot and after driving it it would work out. It did. When I rotated the tires at 5000 miles it has a definite shimmy at 43 to 53 and again in the 60's but it is variable. The dealership force balanced it, then put on different tires, then put a stabalizer on the rear frame and it still shimmys or vibrates. The area ford representative told me it drove like a new one, so I have filed for arbritation. We meet this week. Any advice? Should I skip the arbritation and hire an attorney?
  • I could not in good conscience recommend anyone purchase a ford f150 crewcab 4 wheel drive. Mine has a shimmy- vibration and ford doesn's seem concerned. Says it "drives like a new one" referred me to arbritation. I recommend those that have it follow the recommended procedure, file for arbritation, then if not happy, file suit. good luck
  • For years I have always been a Ford person even sold Ford Trucks a few years ago. I just bought a 2006 F150 King Ranch. I test drove a couple prior to buying mine and liked them over the Tundra's. However now that I have bought my own the ride is a bad one. When I hit a bump in the road it hits hard shaking the whole truck for a few seconds, just kind of a hit and quick vibration. I thought it was the 20" tires but have talked to others and they have had no problems. I have about 2,000 miles on the truck. I don't look forward to driving the truck anymore unless I know I'm going to be going down a smooth road and there's not many of those around. Sometimes when I push on the brakes it will pull to the left and maybe the next time to the right, what's all that about? I gave up my F350 power stroke for a more comfortable riding truck but I'm having second thoughts about what I did. Any ideas.. Am I the only one with these kind of problems?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Am I the only one with these kind of problems?

    Absolutely not! Read back through this forum to see your story repeated over, and over, and over, and over again! :sick:
This discussion has been closed.