Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

16566676870

Comments

  • casey check the ball joints even if there is no play in them it does not mean there not rusted and binding jack up the truck with both front wheels off the ground and see if you can turn the wheels easyer ford is known for there non greaseable ball joints
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,942
    I suppose if the clutch failed completely and you had to start the car in gear all the time, that might eventually wear out a starter---but otherwise, I don't see any connection either. Sounds mighty far-fetched...my "bogusometer" has just gone off...

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • 85f25085f250 Posts: 2
    Are different years compatible? I have an 85, but want to replace the gate with maybe a 91 or 96. Or a 70? Can someone tell me if this will work?
  • I am a proud owner of a 1994 F150. Recently, I had the transmission rebuilt. Not too long after that, I pulled a heavy load 1200 miles. The next time I drove it, it vibrated while accelerating and driving at low RPMs. I took it back to the transmission place, and they said that the transmission was fine. I then took it to a tire place, and they replaced my gearbox, and they installed new rotors. That did not really help fix the vibration problem. Then, I drove from Georgia to Indiana for college, and when I arrived, it was vibrating even worse. It does not vibrate when idling, only when the truck is in motion, and the intensity of the vibrations seems to vary with the RPMs, not the speed. Perhaps it has something to do with the engine (I hope not), but I am not sure. Does anyone know what is wrong with my truck, and if so, what can be done to fix it?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    For an 85, you should be able to use an 80 through 97 (the old-body 97, not the "new" F150 of that year).
  • 85f25085f250 Posts: 2
    Thanks very much!
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Mr Shiftright and Mac24, I think I detect some verbal gymnastics here. Lets try some logic:

    I think we are in agreement that a lousy driver and/or a difficult application (Tim79, "I use it as a work truck to haul things") can quickly wear out a clutch. I think we are also in agreement that a worn clutch with the wrong driver can result in grinding the starter motor on the ring gear, wearing both the ring gear and the starter drive.

    Therefore it is hardly "bogus" to feel as Tim79's dealer did that the "clutch was so far gone it messed up the starter."
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Could be the driver. Do you lend your vehicle out? I have owned 9 trucks and never had to replace a clutch and they were work trucks. Only thing I ever had to replace a clutch in was an old VW. Sorry, don't think I can help on this one.
  • I have a 86 F-250 and the tailgate latch will not open on one side. I have tried to remove trim pieces to get at the inner workings but did not see a way. Is there any way to get in there and fix this or do I need to be a whole new tailgate?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,942
    Sorry for any confusion in my language! My apologies. I'll try to make it clearer.

    I see no relationship whatsoever between a worn clutch and a bad starter motor, so I think the dealer's diagnosis (if reported accurately--let's be fair) is intentionally or unintentionally wrong. It makes no sense.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • cjlaw33cjlaw33 Posts: 4
    I've noticed that if I'm parked on gravel, or something other then cement it's easier to turn. But regardless, whenever I turn the wheel it still makes the "shhhh" hissing noise (remember I just replaced the power steering pump). If it were the bearings, would it still make that noise even if it were a new pump? I will check the bearings though. Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
    Take care.

    Casey
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Perfectly normal, both on your truck and virtually every other vehicle with hydraulic steering.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    No gymnastics..........there's no possible mechanical connection except for the highly unlikely fragmentation issue I pondered in my last post on the subject.

    There should be no human connection either, because as I pointed out previously, a worn clutch will slip and initially cause revs to rise, and when terminally worn will prevent any transmission of power to the drivetrain.

    This final stage of failure will allow the engine to run smoothly at any speed from idle to full throttle in any gear, clutch in or out, and will make it virtually impossible to stall the engine using the operator's controls. Hence, no reason for the starter to be used any more than in a vehicle with a functional clutch.
  • coontie57coontie57 Posts: 128
    Its always been interesting to me to hear folks complain about 250 SD brakes. Mine went 87K before I replaced them last year just before leaving for AK. At that time the mech resurfaced the rotors and I wish he hadn't. Coming back through Canada I was tired and got confused by the slow down sign.. 45KPH really doesn't mean much to me when I am about to be sleeping.. So I had to really jam on the brakes to stop... and then I warped the rotors for sure. I had them replaced last fall and the truck has 108444 on it.

    I don't know how I could have such good luck with my 99 SD and others such bad luck unless they drive a lot differently than I do. Now transmission problems are another story.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    Mac24, I guues we are going to have to agree to disagree. I've driven for almost 50 years and have been around my fair share of people grinding on a starter motor, trying to start a vehicle in gear with a bad clutch, people repeatedly stalling out a stick shift vehicle because they can't handle a clutch and then abusing the starter as they try to get going again, etc. etc. New Englanders are prone to do this as they rock a car back and forth in an attempt to get out of a snow bank.

    Here's some clutch trivia: about 25 years ago to overcome a shortage of drivers, school bus fleets converted to all automatic tranmissions. Many clutch rebuilders closed up. The sale of ring gears plummeted! Ring gears are now getting hard to find.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I don't disagree in any way that a starter bendix and/or the flywheel ring gear can be damaged by an abusive operator. Stalling repeatedly because of poor driving technique, therefore using the starter excessively, certainly falls into this category. Trying to start the vehicle in gear because the clutch operating cable/rod/hydraulics have failed will also, as you stated, damage the starter.

    However, the point I have so inadequately been trying to put across, is that there no connection between a worn clutch and a damaged starter because a worn clutch will not cause the engine to stall. In fact, the more worn the clutch becomes, the harder it will be to stall the engine through too rapid an engagement, until it finally becomes impossible to do so.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,942
    Exactly. That's why the dealer's claim makes no sense whatsoever.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Just found this forum.
    My husbands 2004 F150 has had brake problems since delivery. After the first visit which rotors were replaced to correct the vibration in the 1st month of ownership, we also complained of the "pedal to the floor" in emergency braking occurances.It's Sept of 2006, and at 37,000 miles and numerous (well over 17 visits to the dealership) we still have the occasional pedal to the floor on emergency brake situations ( tourists pulling out in front of you, turning left from the right hand lane, etc....) Each and every time we get CND - that's cannot duplicate to those of you lucky enough not to know dealership lingo.
    Anyone else still out there with this problem????
  • 2003 F-250 6.8L V-10. While towing my fifth wheel up a steep grade in 100 degree heat, my serpentine belt broke. After replacing the belt, I noticed the emissions light was on. I am very sure this light was not on prior to the belt braking. Truck runs great.Any ideas or sugestions?
    Thanks.
  • Take a look around the engine compartment. Possibly some other wire or hose may have taken a hit from the disintegrating belt. Maybe something got knocked loose.

    If nothing's obvious, then take it to an Autozone and have them check the codes (usually free). That'll hopefully clue you in as to what got messed up by losing the belt.

    The warning may clear on it's own with time. E.G. My wife's Honda has light come on if you don't properly tighten the gas cap. Once you do, the light stays on for about 100 miles more of City driving.

    You could clear the code by yourself. Pull off Battery terminal for a couple minutes. Then see if code reurns.
  • did you ever find out whats wrong with your truck...my truck started to vibrated after a friend drove it one day...it only does it when your accelerating..my friend told me at a stop sign he put it in N and rammed up the engine and slipped it in drive and made a hard shake and started shaking bad..j/w if you found out what was wrong with yours..my u-joints are good so it aint that
  • I have a 2000 F250 with no dash or running lights. Did you ever find out what caused the problems.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Personally I would let my EX-FRIEND have the vehicle repaired as it seems to be a blatant case of abuse on his part.
    Revving any engine and then dropping the tranny in gear can and will cause all sorts of problems from damging u-joints to twisting the drive shaft to breaking tranny mounts...and the list goes on.
    I first would check transmission and motor mounts and then go from there.
  • Did you ever get this figured out? I have a similar problem that has only happened maybe 10 times and almost always after a long ride. It also happens more often when after a trip I stop and then start making a right hand turn. It has happened going straight but only once. It stops as soon as I take my foot off the gas. Dealer can't duplicate problem so they don't do anything. It started at about 14,000 miles and now I have 27,000 but it is happening more often, and on shorter trips. Any help?
  • Just curious if anyone had aver had a their cam sensor go out on their truck. I have a 99' F350 Diesel and I was driving it the other day and it just shut off. I coasted to a side street and tried to start it and it just turned over like it wasn't getting any fuel. I let it sit for a bit and it started up and ran for 10 seconds and died. I left it and went to work, came back, started it up and drove it maybe 10 blocks to a buddies house and shut it off. We then figured maybe I can get it back to my house (10 more blocks or so). Started it right up, drove 5 blocks and it shut off again. I tried disconnecting the batteries for a bit to maybe re-set the sensor but it didn't help at all. I figured it would be the fuel pump or filter, but a mechanic friend of mine said it was most likely the cam sensor. He stated that a friend's truck did the same thing awhile back and it was the cam sensor. Apparently Ford stocks these things like crazy and are the only one who sells them. I was told they usually go out every 60-80K miles. Just wondering if anyone knew any better or had any insight whatsoever? I want to make sure before I go buy this sensor that it's not something else. Thanks.
  • I have bin a diesel mechanic for 25 years. long before cam sensors and the answer to your question is yes the cam sensor is bad what happens is when the truck cools down the sensor works again and it does not take long for it to heat up and shut down the engine
  • Problem with dome light and door dinger staying on ? I have to take out the fuse most of the time .Is there a relay ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,942
    no, I think you have a defective interior light switch, which I *think* on your truck might located right in the door lock itself, and is activated when the door opens and closes.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Ford door switches are notorious for collecting grit in them, and eventually getting stuck.

    Get some WD-40. Drown the door switches with it. Work the switch back and forth repeatedly . Drown it with WD-40 again. Repeat until it works properly. :shades:
  • Hi I was wondering if anyone else out there has had a problem with the new 2007 F-350 Super Duty Headlights.
    My headlights are so dim that when trucks(half ton trucks) follow me they cast a shadow in front of my truck.
This discussion has been closed.