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2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon

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  • 07yuk07yuk Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 07 yukon on Sept. 26. My vehicle was shipped on 2/13/07 according to the invoice. The dealer says I'm not eligible for the aged discount, nothing comes up for my vin# for discounts other than the regional incentive at the time which was $3,000. Anybody know a way to find out if this is really true or if I'm being ill informed by the dealer?
    Thanks
  • Hi Shawn,
    Took my Tahoe in Friday, October 12th 2007, to Advantage Chevy in Boling Brook IL, they had the SUV there the entire day and told me they could not hear and identify the problem, of course I was pissed. Now mind you I told them about this site and about other 2007 Tahoe owners having the same problem. Well, I took my truck home. This morning I took it back because the whistling got louder, again they said they could not hear it. Now, I am really upset. So they checked the GM service site, and found Document ID#1974648 (5/22/2007) Subject: "Power Steering High pitched Whistle Noise Heard". Man this document has been out there since May 22, 2007, and these guys did not know about it.
    Just to let everone know, GM is aware of the noise which is internal to the steering gear, and the engineers are investigating, they do not have a solution for this at this time. I am going to call GM, and would advised each of you to do the same. Don't stop calling until they fix this problem. BTW, it effects the following :
    2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, and EXT models, 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Silverado 1500, and Tahoe, 2007 GMC Sierra 1500, Yukon and Yukon XL. If anyone need additioanl information, hit me up. :mad:
  • Yes you are correct that document has been out way before that, they said to replace the steering column prior they recalled that fix and said don't replace, and they still have not fixed the problem, I have set up many complaints with GM, I have had my 07 tahoe in the shop about 15 times for this problem, not to mention all the other problems. The dealership SUCKS and is NOT helpful, and GM has been the same!!
  • seabyrdseabyrd Posts: 32
    Hi.. Doesn't the "Lemon Law" state if a problem isn't fixed after 3 times in the shop for the same problem.. you can get a refund (full) on your vehicle or a new vehicle?? You must make sure that each time you go into the shop you get the visit documented for the same complaint...check it out.. I think it may vary from state to state.. but I think that's the law is Texas. Good Luck !!
  • Keep trying. I did convince Jim Reed Chevrolet in Nashville to replace the steering mechanism, and that fixed the problem for me.

    GM probably figures it's too expensive for them to have a nationwide recall if it's not a safety issue.

    They told me that the majority of owners can't even hear it. But my hearing is perfect, so it was driving me nuts too.

    I bought my 2007 Tahoe LTZ in February of 2006 and had the problem from day one, but only after the car warmed up after 15 minutes.

    It took a couple months of complaining, but they fixed it for me. Since I was the first in town with the LTZ, they probably felt it was in their best interest for PR to make me happy.

    My other problems since then have been...

    * Clock disappearing - I figured this out that having an MP3 CD with alot of songs overloads the software and kicks off the clock. Since I have my iPod hooked up, I don't need the CD anymore.

    * Power locks not working - it's been awhile since that was an issue and seemed to work itself out.

    * A/C compressor doesn't kick on, even set at 60. - This also seemed to work itself out.

    * DVD screen in the back cutting off after just a few minutes. - They replaced the entire upper screen unit and that still doesn't fix it. I have the GM Lockpick installed that overrides the DVD lock when moving, so I haven't really pushed this too much in case the Lockpick is messing it up.

    * Driver's side seat lumbar support has something broken in it. It doesn't push out at your back but pops. - I'll be taking this in shortly since I'm approaching the 36,000 mile limit.

    I really do love the LTZ 4x4 and it still rides great. I just got back from a 1000 mile roundtrip to Destin, FL and got 18.6 MPG averaging about 78 MPH.

    As long as my dealer has fixed my problems, I'm ok with first year glitches. They even put me in a free rental anytime I have to bring it in.

    I just hope I've gotten through the expensive stuff in the first 36k miles and they keep treating me well.
  • "* Clock disappearing - I figured this out that having an MP3 CD with alot of songs overloads the software and kicks off the clock. Since I have my iPod hooked up, I don't need the CD anymore.

    * Power locks not working - it's been awhile since that was an issue and seemed to work itself out. "

    shawnhackett, I've referred some of these exact same issues to some attorney's and they are interested in hearing from more people with them. The address is http://www.wcclaw.com/CM/ClassActions/ChevyTruck.asp. I know I've given the address a lot, but some of these are the exact same issues that my attorney's are looking at.
  • csprickcsprick Posts: 21
    I just got my Ham Radio license and have a mobile rig on the way. In looking at my 07 Tahoe, it appears that the "best" place to mount the radio is under the front passenger seat . (The radio has a separate control head which I'll mount someplace on the dash.)

    My question is - How hard is it to remove the front passenger seat? Mine is NOT powered (I only have a driver's side powered seat.)

    I'm thinking I'll have to remove the seat only once, to mount the radio bracket to the floor. I think I can then install and/or remove the radio from the bracket without messing with the seat.

    Any other Hams out there with any advice for me?

    Chuck
    KE5RAD
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You might want to search on the internet. They make replacement consoles and/or equipment holders. The Tahoe and Suburban can be used by fire, police, and emergency workers, and there are companies that make a number of options for either replacing the console or mounting radio gear.

    I was looking a couple weeks ago for a platform to mount a laptop to, and got some good ideas. I don't have the time right now to give you some URL's, but they're pretty easy to find.
  • If you'd like to see pictures of my Yaesu FT-8900 quad band installation, go to www.k0bg.com, click on "Photo Gallery", then "Other Installs", and go to Page 7. I have 11 pictures posted of my installation including 2 antenna mounts in the roof. Unfortunately, I could not use the area under my seat because of the power option. You'll be able to see where I mounted mine.

    Also, another good mounting location is on the passenger side of the console, as forward as far as the seat excursion. RTV the mount to the console, and you can easily remove it without leaving any holes.

    If you don't have the Bose option, remove the cup holder, and pull up sharply on the tray insert. It will unsnap and there might be a pretty large cavity underneath it. I don't know for sure becaue I have the Bose option on mine and that's where the sub enclosure and amp is located. vy 7 3, K3GM
  • Hi Chuck, I'm K2WE and have been a ham for 43 years. I have an Icom IC-208H installed in my '07 tahoe. The main radio is just sitting under the drivers seat. I have the remote head sitting in the console. When I wish to use it, I put 2 small velcro strips just under the center dash AC/heating vents. I just stick the head in place and it works fine. I have the remote speaker sitting in the console. As for an antenna, I have a dual band Larsen on glass antenna mounted on the rear drivers side window.. It works very well.. I was going to drill a hole in the roof for an NMO mount but never got the chance..Another friend, Rick N2YME has 2 mounts drilled in the roof of his '07 Suburban and he easily snaked the coax thru the roof to his radios.. By the way, I drew the 13.8 volts from the fuse block located in the interior side panel just under the dash. I snaked the cable under the carpet and nothing shows.. Hope this helps..

    73 Steve at Saratoga Lake, NY ;)
  • My 2007 Tahoe has had several issues, all covered by the warranty and not many have been fully resolved. My car is in right now for whistling. I had hired a sound specialist who rode in my car and found that the sound comes from the rear drive train. The sound occurs when the car is not in gear and is coasting at speeds of 45mph or more. The dealer has found that it is something to do with the rear pinion (I am not quite sure of the exact wording), but I am hoping that the sound stops for I have had it since day one of owning the car. I too can realte as to how annoying it is.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Where does one go to find a "sound specialist"?

    I know that GM has a "vibration specialist" that connects to the frame and can identify the location of vibrations.
  • dmyer3dmyer3 Posts: 17
    Last month my message center had a "service 4wd" message. It has been to the dealer 3 times and still not fixed. They replaced a wheel speed sensor and did some work on the wiring without success. They called GM and they suggested replacing the transmission control module, but it's on backorder so am just waiting. Dealer has been working hard but it seems to be an elusive problem.
    Anybody else have this problem or have heard of it?
    Don
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Shawn, did you get your whistling situation resolved yet?

    I just noticed tonight a static noise which sounds like it is coming thru the radio, while idling or running at low speed. Radio is off, a/c and blowers off.

    Does anyone have a copy of the above Document ID 1974648? .... or has a definitive fix been issued?
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    jochamp said: The sound occurs when the car is not in gear and is coasting at speeds of 45mph or more.
    ____________________________________________________________
    My question to you is why do you drive your vehicle at 45mph with the transmission out of gear? This is considered a dangerous practice. If the noise only occurs in this scenario then just keep the gear engaged.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    can handle the load of towing your 25' boat before doing anything else. There are quite a few drop kits available but it seems bags might suit you better since you will still be towing.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    20s with 275/55R20 works nice as a stock sized replacement. However 22s IMO look a lot better. Course the ride difference between 22 and 20 is almost as substantial as moving from 16 or 17 to 20s.

    BTW I run 20s on a black Denali with a 1/3 drop and kept the stock self leveling shocks.
  • csprickcsprick Posts: 21
    Thanks, to all of you who responded to my post, for the great advice. www.k0bg.com is a wonderful reference page. Proves once again that the Internet is a super source of information, if you just ask the right people! :)

    73's

    Chuck
    KE5RAD
  • megozamegoza Posts: 2
    I have a 4WD 2007 Tahoe LT. Sometimes when I crank it in the mornings, it moves a little bit like the transmission is in gear, but it is still in "Park". It doesn't happen all the time, just occasionally. Does anyone else have that problem?
  • megozamegoza Posts: 2
    Yes, there is a small gap but not enough to hurt anything. I ordered mine from Cabelas, who is turn gets them from Weather Tech.
  • #2802 of 2807 Lowering Kit by tony97gt Oct 21, 2007 (5:52 pm)

    Okay guys I need some professional advice. I am purchasing some 24" rims. I am looking to lower my hoe to close up the gap in the wheel well. I would like to keep as close as possible to my factory ride. I don't want a lowrider (rephrased for those politically correct sensitive people)that bounces all over the place. I also have a 25ft boat I need to tow. Can someone recommend a good but somewhat inexpensive lowering kit? I don't want the cheapest or the most expensive, but I want to do things right. :lemon:

    I just ordered the chrome mesh grille with tow hook covers and the chrome door handles. I think the last piece of chrome I am going to get is the chrome bow tie for the front grille. I already did the trick with the back bowtie and removed the gold cover to make the tie chrome.
  • All,

    Thanks for all the info on the sound that my truck makes. I have been to busy to bring it back to the dealership, but did talk to my new service manager. He stated to me that he had two other Tahoes in for the same reason last week. Not sure if they fixed them or just started to replace random things. I guess I will find out next week when I drop off mine.

    Shawn, I will pass along the info you provided along with the GM doc number about the power steering and see what happens. One thing that got me was that he mentioned it could be a vacuum problem. Anything is possible I guess.

    Dave
  • I recently installed a 2 meter ham radio in my '07 Tahoe. The radio is connected directly to the battery terminal clamp bolts via crimp-on lugs, using the manufacturer's extension kit cables. I also have the manufacturer's noise filter in the line.

    When the radio is on and I start the vehicle, the radio immediately shuts down and "reboots" as the Tahoe starts. When I shut down the Tahoe, the radio stays on, as it should.

    The vehicle/battery is about 16 months old and I've experienced no other electrical issues with it. I measure just a hair over 12 volts at the radio's power connection with the vehicle shut off.

    I'm suspecting that the starter pulls such current that the radio loses power and restarts, but am not sure:

    a. if this is harmful to the radio
    b. if I could correct this by installing a more heavy duty battery
    c. if there is anything else I could/should do to keep the radio on
    during starting

    Thoughts/comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
  • I'm not an electrical expert, but I wonder if a capacitor would do the trick? They are commonly used in car audio applictions when you have a heavy duty amplifier which pulls more electricity than the battery has in store. The capacitor stores extra juice so when the amp hits hard and needs extra juice, it comes from the capacitor. This is what allows the amplifier to keep kicking without a surge. Maybe someone with more expertise can ellaborate.
  • Some rigs are sensitive to voltage drops, and yours sounds like it's droping below the shutdown threashold. I have an Yaesu FT-8900, and it is stays on fine during starting. To answer your questions:

    a) I doubt it.
    b) Perhaps. But I'd first check the rating of the existing battery to see how much improvement you can obtain.
    c) You know that extra battery tray on the other side of the vehicle? I'd populate that one with another battery, and either wire them in parallel, or get a battery isolator like they use on RV's. If you wire them in parallel, I'd go with 2 brand new, like batteries. I had this on my diesel pickup and I'd could operate for hours without fear of running the batteries down. gl es vy 73
  • jntjnt Posts: 316
    When the starter kicks in, the Battery voltage would drop. That is the reason why your ham radio reset: it probably doe not work at lower voltage.

    I doubt that having low voltage is harmful to the radio unless the radio is not designed for true automotive conditions: extreme hot and cold temperature, some voltage transients,...

    Having a heavy duty battery may help provided the starting system does not drag the voltage down beyond the working threshold of your ham radio.

    One caution about connecting the ham radio (or any electronic equipment) directly to the battery: make sure this one does not draw to much juice (low standby current) while the vehicle is off and ignition is off. If not, you end up draining your Tahoe's battery in no time. Radio can draw 1-2 Amp while it is in normal working mode. But in stand by mode (ignition off) , most car radios draw less than 1mA (1/1000 of an Amp).

    jt
  • Shawn,
    The service manager at Jim Reed Chevrolet said they wouldn't release any service records unless the customer authorized it.

    I still have the whistling issue...every time I take it in the service managers say they don't hear anything; except once, they said it was a brake pad sticking. All of my passengers can hear it...all of the time.

    This is irritating the hell out of me because it's now like fingernails on the chalkboard every time I drive.

    Can you post the details of the service or send me an email (set up a temp email since this is posted) at whistlingyukon@yahoo.com?
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    My 2007 Z-71 4x4 Tahoe has been flawless so far - great ride - great power - better MPG than the 2001 2WD it replaced - my one complaint - the $%$@#@%$#%$ windshield wiper makes a $#$%&^$@$&^& clicking noise - TAP TAP TAP

    From the drivers side only - I have switched the blades from side to side and the noise is still on the drivers side -

    Right at the point where the wiper blade changes direction and starts moving back down I get the TAP sound - I think it is the hard plastic piece that connects the windshield wipper to the wiper arm hitting the glass.

    Does anyone have this same issue?

    I think replacing the blade with a different style may solve it - but I have not found anyone who sells a replacement blade for the 2007 -

    Michelin makes one but I could not see how the darn thing would attach to my vehicle - unless I use a part from my Tahoe (which is broken)
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Comes with a 5 year warranty.

    http://www.silblade.com/ or here

    ebay motors
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    The site says they don't carry one for 2007 Chevys.
This discussion has been closed.