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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • steelman4steelman4 Member Posts: 4
    the sensor itself was the speed sensor, located at the top of the tranny. the motor was a 5.2l 318....as far as the tranny itself,,,i have no ideal what it was. i ended up getting rid of it...the brakes would not last over 20thou. no matter what type or kind you installed, plus the tranny started acting up again, replaced sensor again, did not help, so i figured out how to solve my problems...got a Chevy Tahoe..durango was getting 9 mpg around town,,,,Tahoe is bigger and has more power and i am getting 17 mpg around town...wished i could have helped you more though with the Tranny model.
  • kjs4kjs4 Member Posts: 3
    This helped alot for us. We have had it for several years and had the tranny rebuilt once already. We are going to change this sensor as well and see if that helps. Maybe even enough help to take it to another place and get rid of it. That is our plans as well. We are not satisfied customers of the durango. Thanks for the help so much.
  • kjs4kjs4 Member Posts: 3
    I have to let you know that after changing that speed sensor it is still doing the same thing. Do you have any other ideas as to what it may be.
  • lisam1lisam1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Dodge Durango and also am experiencing a loud hum AFTER I turn off the ignition. Did you have any luck in finding the cause of the hum in your durango?
  • jem6465jem6465 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Durango Limited, On occasion the turn signals do not function. I took it to my Dealer and he told me he could not help me unless I got it to him when it was not working (big help). It has happened about 10 times in the last month.When it malfunctions it may lastfor 10 seconds up to 1 minute. Of course when it malfuntions I am never close to a Dealer. Thanks in advance John
  • justincuti18justincuti18 Member Posts: 3
    HI there! My camshaft positioning sensor is out to but i got a new sensor i just cant find the other one on the engine to replace it any info would be greatly appreciated thank u!
  • starlastarla Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find out what the problem was? I have a 1999 Dodge Durango that may be doing the same thing?
  • justincuti18justincuti18 Member Posts: 3
    yeah! in the distrutor cap theres a wire coming out of it(the sensor) i got it replaced and the bad boy started right up! the problem with mine was it wasnt starting! hope it helps!
  • deanna8107deanna8107 Member Posts: 2
    It all started when I was driving my Durango and stopped at a light. When I wentto move, I was flooring it and only going 5 mph. Eventually it shifted and threw a engine code (Shift Sylanoid A Malfunction) Did it off and on. On the way to have teh shift sylanoids replaced, it jerked and grinded the whole way there. Trans shop said my trans welded together from it overheating. Trans rebuilt, new shift sylanoids. Truck threw the same code. Took it back, nothing. Again threw a code and nothing. Finally they sent it to a computer specialist, nothing then to a dealer. They reset a computer and replaced a Pressure Sensor. It worked great for about three weeks, until today. Stuck in traffic on highway, started to hesitate when shifting. I noticed the temp runninghigh again which happens each time. It was about 240 when 210 is normal for my truck. Then it threw the same code. The whole way home,when I would stop, I could not get it going again. I don't know what to do. IT DID NOT DO THIS WHEN THE WEATHER WAS NICE OR IN THE WINTER!!!!! Help please. I am a poor teacher who really needs my truck fixed.

    Thanks :confuse:
  • deanna8107deanna8107 Member Posts: 2
    Its on the right side of the engine towards the front . on the cylender head. It is hard to get to. You have t remove the aibox. One 10mm bolt holds it in.
  • minnviksminnviks Member Posts: 1
    2000 durango 5.9L. Started idling funny like it was not getting enough fuel. Yesterday stalled in the driveway. Will turnover but it wont fire. Stepped on the gas peddle and it will run but when I take my foot off it dies. I have been seeing this problem alot on these fourms with the Durango. I just dont see any replies to fix the problem. I am trying ti figure out if its a fuel pump or a sensor problem (TPS) maybe. Please help. Only vehicle right now and it dont run. :mad: Well now it just git weirder. I went out this morning and it started fine. Stepped on the gas peddle and it died again like the engine is flooding
  • dburhenndburhenn Member Posts: 1
    98 dodge durango starts and runs as long as I stay on the accelerator. It dies as soon as I let off. Any body point me in the right direction? Thanks
  • ehirschehirsch Member Posts: 2
    I purchased the bypass harness from the dealer for my 2000 Durango. It has connectors on either end. I can figure out where the connection is opposite the O2 sensor. Other posts here say it connects to the PCM. I think I know where the PCM is but do not see a standard 4 pin connection going into the unit. Please tell/show me where this should plug into.
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    The PCM is the box near your air intake on the fender wall above the passenger wheelwelI. It has 3 large groups of wires that plug into it. I don't know which of those trace back to the o2 sensor- I thought the bypass part came with a schematic drawing to layout the connections. I would love to know what the bypass wiring part looks like. I took my 2000 durango to the dealer to replace the sensors and install the bypass. they put in the sensors but I can not see any evidence that they installed the bypass and i still had the problem. After a big run around from the dealer I simply disconnected upstream o2 sensor which improved my gas mileage back to a like new 18 MPG highway ( from 12 MPG highway when the sensor is connected). The reason this works is without the o2 sensor connected the PCM remains in an "open loop" which puts your fuel trim (LTFT, STFT) at zero (no leaning trim under light load or rich trim under heavy load). when the R bank o2 sensor is connected it sends a false reading that right bank of cylinders are too lean.This false reading causes the PCM to adjust the right bank of cylinders to get a fuel to air mixture 30% too rich!! Of course this is all due to faulty grounding of the O2 sensor due to power steering fluid contamination.
    I could never pass a smog test with the o2 sensor disconnected because it trips the engine light on (even though the exhaust is very clean.) I have wrote extensively on this discussion forum about the problem. I have a call in to Lithia Dodge Corporate office (the repair shop) to file a complaint about their failure to install the bypass. It would really help to know exactly what the bypass wire looks like (connections, wire length etc.) so when I talk to the corporate office I will be better informed. read my other messages if you like. i will follow your discussions and maybe if we continue to report on any progress we can get both our cars fixed
  • ehirschehirsch Member Posts: 2
    Its about 3'9" long has a 4 pin male connector on one end and a four hole female receiver on the other end. In addition to the part number 56045 483AC it has a large "A" tag on it also. It has a total of 6 plastic mounting ties that should press into holes in the body. Due to the connectors it appears it should just plug in somewhere. I can't afford the milage loss...maybe I try disconnecting the existing wire also. ANYONE OUT THERE INSTALL THE BYPASS HARNESS?
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    If you disconnect the right bank upstream o2 sensor coupling (the sensor on the engine side of the cat on the passenger side of the exhaust ) from the wire harness, your mileage should jump immediately up to a like new condition. I tied the loose end of the disconnected o2 sensor wiring/connector to the tranny fluid line with a plastic tie. This is just to keep the dangling end from touching the cat or exhaust pipe and damaging it. the harness end is out of harms way so I left it as is. I took the durango on a 800 mile trip and picked up a 2000LB boat and trailer and hauled it home. I have one of those real time and average mileage readers. My average freeway mileage without the trailer was 18MPG over the 900 miles and 14 MPG hauling the boat back!! No performance problems even over mountains. If you have one of those mileage readers in your unit you will see the difference right away. If not a quarter tank of driving tracking the mileage should make the mileage improvement clear. In about a tank of driving you should be able to clear the carbon build up and even see better performance. If this does not fix the problem I have some alternate causes that i could tell you about. Thanks for the description of the bypass I am sure now that it was never installed- and I prepaid for the unit on special order!
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    although I can't tell you the exact connections for the bypass wire into the PCM, I can tell you I was quoted about 2 hours for the repair. from what i was told the engine harness is pulled loose from the chassis, split open from the o2 sensor up to the PCM and the bypass wires are installed inside it. three of the four wires apparently route to the PCM and one wire routes through another branch of the main harness to a common ground (down by the radiator). When the main harness is split you should be able to route the wires. However, other message forums on the site discuss the fact that the only wire you really need to bypass is the ground wire. this message also discussed replacing the harness side of the connector using new pins which he soldered to the wires where he cut off the old connector on the harness side. since you have a new harness side o2 sat connector with the bypass you purchased you could look into using the 3 existing harness wires not contaminated. You could do this by cutting off the old harness side connector, solder the cut harness wires to the appropriate (cut) ends of 3 of the new bypass wires. Leaving the ground wire of the new bypass harness intact, re route the ground wire externally along the main harness and connect to the common ground. This would save a nightmare job of removing splitting re routing and re installing the main harness. apparently only the ground wire gets contaminated with PS fluid because it is the only wire the o2 sensor shares with the PS wiring. by using a new o2 harness side connector you correct the contamination to the old connector. there may also be contamination of all the wires on the o2 sensor side of the connection because at that o2 sat connection the PS fluid could leak into all four wires from the contaminated ground out of the harness. In other words you should consider getting a new o2 sat unit also.
  • julia1974julia1974 Member Posts: 2
    HUGE thanks to this site and all who posted regarding the "O2 Sensor + Power Steering Pressure Switch Nightmare". My 2000 Durango, with the 4.7L engine, has recently suffered the same symptoms described in many other posts. Black sooty exhaust, horrible fuel mileage, engine light on, and sluggish when running. I took it to the dealership and was given an estimate of $700 to replace both of my O2 sensors, the power steering switch, spark plugs, and perform a "superinduction injection flush". Obviously, after investigating on my own and reading the posts here, I learned that none of that would have resolved the problem without the ground wire being changed. It saved me a ton of money, time, and frustration with the "we can try this" or "we think it could be" that dealerships love to hand out. My truck has 100,000 plus miles on it and I'm not planning on dishing out that kind of cash on repairs. I disconnected the upstream O2 sensor and she runs great. Fuel mileage is right back where it should be. No hesitation or sluggish feeling. Most of all...no more exhaust fumes while driving! Plan to take it to a "mechanically inclined" friend of mine this weekend who can fix the whole issue for approximately $250. That includes parts and his labor. For now, I'm just gonna run it as is with the disconnected sensor. Never trusted the dealerships anyways. The majority of them do treat women as if we are completely clueless. $700??? Are they crazy?? I need that money to get my hair and nails done!! LOL!!!
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    Glad to see you found this information before getting taken by the dealer. I my case it was even worse. I knew what the problem was and told the dealer Lithia Dodge of Klamath Falls, OR what I wanted done. I had to special order the bypass wire ($90) and ordered the upstream and downstream o2 sensors from them (at twice the price of an auto part chain store like pep boys) all this so they would do the labor. Total cost $800. Problem is they never installed the bypass wiring- the mechanic said I didn't need it- that it was just an "extension wire" for the o2 sensor and not my problem, Instead told me I may have an exhaust leak or my PCM damaged etc. etc. (trying to extract alot more money for" try this and try that" repairs like you mentioned). I asked for the bypass wiring be returned and he said "I used it" but when I pressed him about the if he bypassed the sensor ground he repeated "that's not the problem". See most of the dodge dealer's "certified repair techs" don't know about the problem and they think the customer is stupid and they think they know everything. There are many stories about people taking their cars in to the dealers for this problem and having to bring it back in 5 or more times (paying dearly at each return visit for work not needed) before in frustration one of the mechanics would call the corporate repair headquarters and find out about this unique flaw in this one make and model year of the durango. I still drive mine with the o2 sensor disconnected. I have filed a written complaint with the Lithia Dodge Corporation specifically for charging me for the o2 bypass wiring and not installing it or returning the part. Are you planning on doing your repair by the book ie; using the bypass wire from dodge and routing inside the harness or just doing it using your own wiring? Also you really only need to replace the right upstream o2 sensor on the engine side of the cat, not both right side sensors. and you also don't have to mess with the left side o2 sensor either unless of course these sensors were damaged due to the black soot or age. If you have your engine light comes on after your repairs get readings from an OBD meter and let me know what they are before you proceed. Good luck. Please keep us apprised of your repair methods and results. alot of people including me who would like to know.
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    forgot to mention- replace your power steering sensor also. that it were the leak into the wiring came from in the first place. if you need more info on the how or why on this message me back.
  • delthekingdeltheking Member Posts: 1,152
    Hi, I just got a used 2003 Dodge Durango SUV today.
    I want to get an extended warranty on that.
    Which company has the best extended warranty?Are 3rd party warranties better than Dealer/Factory warranties?Is Warrantydirect.com a reliable agency?They have some nice deals with pretty decent coverage.Any other suggestions?
    Thanks .
  • deyoung1111deyoung1111 Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever get this resolved? The same problem started on my 1999 Durango 2 weeks ago and my mechanic can't find anything wrong.
  • lucyneedshelplucyneedshelp Member Posts: 2
    So...I talked to a lot of people and did a lot of research on my own and never found a way to fix it. I changed all the sensors and the chip, among a few things. I was told that kind of problem was pretty common among 1999 and 2000 Durangos; that because of the way the fuel injection system was set up the fuel filter would get sucked into the injection system and the car would knock off, then it would be released back down and the car would be able to start. I changed the fuel injection system and it still stalled. Finally, I was told that it was that it needed a new harness which holds all the wires going to the chip and possibly all new wiring as well. I just couldn't it anymore and recently sold it for only $1000 to a mechanic who said he could fix it with no problem...ran into him the other day and he is also now trying to sell it. Of all the research I did on the problem and contacting other people with the same problem, there were only 2 people I found that were able to fix it, and they both only changed the sensors. So, good luck with that...I'm jaded already...I'd say to just move on, try to get rid of it and get another car. It seems like taking a loss, but believe me with the amount of money I spent in fixing it all the time and borrowing cars....I could've gotten another car. I depleted my savings on the Durango thinking that the next thing would fix it and it'd be okay but it never did and now I have no car at all and can't afford to get another one right now....gotta save some money first.
  • hunter40hunter40 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 2001 Durango SLT with the same problem. When I crank the eng the first time it does not start. But on the second time it starts and idels rough. Did you ever get yours fixed and if so what was the problem?
    Thanks,
    Hunter
  • deyoung1111deyoung1111 Member Posts: 2
    I finally spent the big bucks and replaced the PCM for $600+ last week. The problem has not reappeared.
  • tsimptsimp Member Posts: 3
    I assume that this is the same for a 2000 Dakota. I cut the white wire between the O2 sensor and connector and attached to a new ground. Still smells rich when running. Any other ideas for PO171 error?
  • guyuteguyute Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Dodge Durango with 161000 miles. It is in great condition but the cel came on and it has a hard downshift from 3rd to 2nd and then once you come to a stop it has a smaller but still hard downshift from 2nd to 1st gear. I replaced the input and output sensors but the problem is still there. HELP ME!!!
  • famaggafamagga Member Posts: 3
    Did adjusting the latch fix the low tire pressure indicator as well?
  • famaggafamagga Member Posts: 3
    did you ever get an answer on this? I'm having the exact same problem. Changed the battery now can't get the tire pressure light or cargo lamp light to go off.
  • famaggafamagga Member Posts: 3
    I have seen several posts on this forum about people changing batteries and then can't get the tire pressure warning light and cargo lamp warning light to go off. Has anyone found a solution to this? I changed batteries last week and ever since, can't get either light to go off. close the hatch door a couple times after I start the engine, the cargo lamp will go off. The tires all have good pressure. This just seems like a strange symptom that has occurred to several people with the Durango reading through this forum.
  • mbradburymbradbury Member Posts: 3
    Try replacing your battery cables and terminals. I had the same problem and found the connection with the battery was poor. This also results in a clicking sound without the engine turning over for many as well.
  • tinkerertinkerer Member Posts: 13
    My nephew had the O2 sensor issue due to a leaking Power steering pressure switch. We spent the better part of an afternoon to re-wire around the ground connection to the O2 sensor and he has no problem now but I was worried about my Durango getting this issue. I checked the pressure switch a few times and then I figured I would avoid it altogether. I cut both wires to the switch and used 2 splice connectors (the kind where the wires are laid parallel and are connected by way of a squeeze connector. Now, the switch can leak all it wants, should it fail, and it won't cause any issues other than some drips of PS fluid which will tell me that the switch failed so I can replace it.
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    Sounds like a good solution rather than having to check for PS sensor leaks. As you probably know a new sensor relay is less than 30 bucks and takes two minutes to replace if it ever does start leaking, I would like to know the method your nephew used to bypass the )2 sensor ground. I currently have my sensor connector unpluged which also eliminates the fuel mix problem but of course trips the engine warning light. I would like to do the O2 sensor ground bypass so the engine warning light would work like it is supposed to.
  • getrdone2getrdone2 Member Posts: 3
    '01 Dodge Durango: Doesn't shift into 4x4 now, neither 4HI or 4LO - all fuses OK - suggestions?
  • BreznikBreznik Member Posts: 3
    I am thinking about purchasing this vehical as a second vehical for towing and bad weather driving. It has 90000 on it. How long do the engines on the vehicals last. I have always owned Dodge Pick Ups and been very happy.

    Debbie
  • tayninhtayninh Member Posts: 2
    Debbie, I have a 99 Durango SLT with 145,000 on it. The vehicle runs great and go's just about any where I need it to. The only thing I changed on it was the air intake and exhaust. I put a K&N cold air intake in and a FlowMaster exhaust system. The engine dosen't use or burn any oil and sounds as good as a new one.
  • BreznikBreznik Member Posts: 3
    Thank you very much for your responce!
  • kristenb9kristenb9 Member Posts: 1
    whenever it is cold my durango has some weird problems going on.

    all the dash lights come on and the speedometer, the oil gauge, the battery gauge, the rpm gauge and the gas gauge all stop working. also the light that shows what gear you are in is gone.

    once the car warms up all this returns but sometimes im driving for 40 mins before this happens . i live in illinois so its pretty cold in the winter time.

    is this some sort of glitch? or is there something broken that can be fixed?
    i dont really want to take it to dodge because the last time i did they tried to tell me a whole bunch of stuff was wrong with it that wasnt wrong with it.

    ive already replaced the central control modual (or something like that) one of the computers because i lost all the power doors and windows the head lights and the wipers. at least with what ever is wrong right now i can still drive it.

    thanks kristen :sick:
  • JHaynerJHayner Member Posts: 1
    Please help me. My husband and I have been trying to figure out what is up with our vehicle. He is right now looking at every fuse in the vehicle. As we were coming home today our dash lights went out. We figured it was a fuse and waited till we got home to look. We then noticed we had no parking lights and the license plate lights were also out. If it is a fuse or module, which one? Everything thing else works just fine. Please help, I hope its an inexpensive fix. This vehicle is seems to giving us a lot of headaches as of late. I cant take another $300 job and neither can our bank account. lol Thank you.
  • srhoffmansrhoffman Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me how/where to route this wire? I just ordered one for the same problem everyone else has had (and the supply of this harness is dwindling), but I don't know where it goes or how to get it there. Based on others description of this part, I'll be unplugging something at the PCM to insert this harness, but what does that affect? Will the PS pressure switch then be disconnected and throw a code again? I've been running without the O2 sensor plugged in for a few days and performance is right back where I'd expect it but with an inspection coming due I won't pass with an engine light on.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Steve
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    I don't have an answer. But in respect to all those other 2000 4.7L O2 sensor sufferers in this forum, all of us out there that are checking emails for incoming edmonds forum to see if someone has answered this question. All of us that have attempted to install this harness bypass have asked it. If you have a willing and more competent parts dept person than I do at your local dodge dealership, they may be able to get the schematic and installation instructions. As for the smog cert, you may have some grace period for registration tags out of date, Pay the registration fees on time without the smog cert indicating you are in the process of smog repairs. You can get a 90 day grace in most states. Check for your state.
    A warning to anyone going to the dealership for repairs- you go to them with these symptoms and they will charge hundreds even $1000+ replacing o2 sensors, doing fuel injection flush treatments, or replace injectors at $100+ each, or worse. None of this fixes the problem. It has to do with Power Steering (PS) fluid contamination from PS sensor failure, and leakage of the fluid into the harness ground wiring. PS fluid contaminated ground wires cause the PCM (Power Control Module) to send bad signals to systems like the fuel injectors, idle speed control,.and the problem child -the right bank upstream O2 sensor. The weak O2 sensor ground signal is interpreted by the PCM that an overly lean condition is in the right bank of cylinders. The PCM then sends long and short term fuel trim messages to the right bank of fuel injectors sensors to increase fuel mix to max rich causing soot and mileage drop. If you have this problem those are the problem codes the OBD2 will show. (right bank to lean, slow response on several fuel injectors, R bank O2 sensor signal delay) When the car is cold the sensors are inactive and defaulted at 0% which is a clean burning efficient fuel mix.
    The whole problem begins with a loss of PS fluid and idle speed variations due to the initial PS switch failure. This occures long before the O2 sensor finally fails. Maybe early detection of PS fluid loss and timely replacement of the PS sensor could save some from this disaster.
    Waited too long? there is hope- as I mentioned a simple unplugging of the upstream (from the cat) O2 sensor will bring the operating function back to normal. The PCM signal will stay at zero default mode which won't hurt the car. Gas mileage soot and performance will seem better than they have been for a long time. I went from 14.7 average MPG before the O2 failure. Suddenly I'm down to 8MPG when the problem hits, I now get about 16 average MPG. My engine light is on and because of the this it would not pass a smog test - if that is an issue for you at least you can continue operate the vehicle as normal until you get ti fixed.
    I spent over $500 at the dealer for sensors and harness bypass install. They didn't install the harness saying I didn't need it. They didn't install it because THEY DON'T KNOW HOW. The part comes with no instruction or diagram.
    I would sure like to see the solution posted on this forum. I will keep checking edmonds and waiting. For all those who don't have to worry about smog certs. and haven't already done so, replace the PS switch (30 bucks and real easy). Leave the new PS switch unpluged- it will just get recontaminated. runs fine unplugged. idle speeds are the best in years,- (PS switch sends to PCM to control idle speed -unplugged defaults to a steady 700rpm). The new PS switch will also stop any PS fluid leak. Finally unplug the upstream right O2 sensor. Secure all loose connector ends with plastic ties away from heat and harms way of the fan belt and exhaust pipe. Your car should run fine unless you have something else wrong. Smog certifiable aside, at least you can use your car without damaging cylinder walls, valves, and the cat. Peace
  • elaney1981elaney1981 Member Posts: 16
    I had a problem with my 98 jimmy and come to find out it was the dimmer switch, I replaced it and everything is fine try that it is simple and cheap from a junk yard. Thanks Ed 98 Dodge Durango/98 GMC Jimmy
  • whiskey62whiskey62 Member Posts: 9
    if that didnt help! have the manul for the 98 99 durango,dakoda it has a list of stuff. Incorrect idel speed,Fuel filter clogged and or water and impurities in fuel, Fauity fuel system or sensors,Fauity plug or plug gap or wiers, Vacuum leak at throttle body,intake manifold or vacuum hoses
    be happy to give whatever help i can from book or my own exp.
  • mcpryormcpryor Member Posts: 2
    dont know if anyone has thought about it, but my check engine light came on yesterday, and it says that it was the CAT! so my hubby reset it all and I drove it about 100 miles before I went to get it inspected today, ( had doctors appt an hr away)... anyways, right before I pull in, the light came on again!! MY LUCK!! so off to the shop we go, they replace the O 2 sensor and send me on my way, less than a mile down the road, BOOM!! Check engine light on again, still getting the same reading as before!! So, get my oldest from school and back to the shop we go...... MY O 2 SENSOR WAS FINE,............ ITS THE O 2 SENSOR RECEPTACLE..... it is damaged and we have no idea how, probably for the fact that it is almost 11 years old, LOL!!! so please, when you go in to have that sensor replaced, have them check the receptacle and save yourself some money!!!! :(
  • julia1974julia1974 Member Posts: 2
    Should we be thankful that we're not alone in this dilemna? I have suffered the same symptoms and thanks to this site, saved hundreds or thousands on repairs. I disconnected my O2 sensor and my truck has run fine. Engine light stays on, of course. I live in a rural area so no need to worry about passing the emissions test. Was wondering though, if so many of us are having this issue, what does it take for dodge to realize it? I think there should be a recall.
  • ncdodgeownerncdodgeowner Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Durango with this very same problem. Unfortunately, like many others I had to fiure it out myself as Dodge is no help whatsoever. I am a DIY'er, because I cannot afford the incompetance that most dealerships provide. My problem started back in 2007. I figured out the power steering switch link to the failing oxygen sensor, but like a lot of people, I still have gone through several sensors due to residual fluid in the wiring harness. Luckily, I have not needed the truck much since I only use it to pull a boat. But I cannot pass emmissions until the problem is fixed, and thanks to our state's new laws, I have been fined $50 for exceeding the inspection period. I have decided to tackle the problem and hopefully provide specifics: i.e. wire colors, locations, etc. so that anyone else who cannot afford dealership BS and runaround can have a solution to this problem. It has been mentioned in these posts before, but from what I have found, disconnecting the front O2 sensor will make the truck run much better if you are having the low MPG/black soot problem. This is caused by a faulty O2 signal caused by the power steering fluid contamination. When you disconnect the O2 sensor, you will get a fault, but it will put the computer (PCM)in a default mode that basically assumes the sensor is dead and will ignore the signal (or lack therof) and instead rely on a preprogrammed algorithm to make up for it. It is not the optimal settings, but you will get 15-16 MPG instead of 4-8, as you should not have the heavy black soot at the tailpipe anymore. For those of you who do not have to deal with a OBDII emmissions inspection, this is really all you need to do since the default program is almost as good as with the sensor (I personally cannot tell a difference). Unfortunately for those of us with emmissions, we have to fix it. I started my repairs last night, and hope to report back soon with specifics for all the DIY'ers out there if it has not already been posted here.
  • atownatown Member Posts: 1
    My durango won't start. It cranks over but no start. The fuel pump comes on and I get 45lbs of pressure at the fuel rail. I sprayed carb cleaner in the air intake and nothing. I hit the gas tank with the back of a shovel and nothing. I'm lost! People say it's the fuel pump ,but I have doubts. Any help!!!!!
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    Good luck. The moment I have been waiting for. I hope your method includes using the dodge harness bypass. This problem was remedied by dodge but no one including the dealer repair techs have a clue. It is incredible that I couldn't get competent service to get this fixed at my dodge dealer. I tried to tell them what the problem was. I pre-ordered the harness bypass. The corporate auto service division knows about the problem. They made a part to bypass the problem for crying out loud. But somehow the huberous nature of the service department mechanics they "assume" every common problem except what is really wrong with the car. I burned 1300 bucks total on needless repairs including replacing all 8 fuel injectors, 2 O2 sensors etc (no wonder Dodge doesn't bother to do anything about the real problem!). They denied my explanation of the problem and quoted me another 800 bucks to do exhaust repair PCM module replacement and on and on.
    When I finally realized I was going to have to tackle fixing it myself, I found it outright scandelous that I can't find out how to install the harness bypass from my dodge dealership, from Dodge corporate, or from any other Dodge source- internet included. In fact this site is the only place this information is being discussed. This is a unique problem to the 2000 4.7L. In 1999 they didn't have a power steering switch (sensor) and by 2001 they fixed the PS design flaw. I agree with Julia there should have been a recall but it doesn't appear one was ever issued. Instead they just threw the replacement part out there and gave no direction to the dealerships to alert the mechanics, parts people, or the public. And we wonder why GM and Chrysler are tanking?
  • ncdodgeownerncdodgeowner Member Posts: 5
    I am not using the Dodge Bypass Harness. Given what I have read about it, and the cost, I am simply making a bypass harness myself. I have not seen it, but I assume that the harness offered by Dodge has to be "hard-wired" in to the wire bundle leading to the PCM. I have positively identified the signal wire in the main bundle. It is light green with a red stripe. Unfortunately there is more than one light green wire with a red stripe in the bundle. The other one goes to the transmission. I ended up cutting both to figure this out. There is also an isolated signal ground that is black with a blue stripe. Again, there is more than one of these, so getting the right one is an arduous task. Once I identified both of these, I was able to simulate the signal and watch the Fuel trim response in the PCM with a code reader. I determined that my O2 sensor was bad (another one) so I was unable to complete the hookup just yet.

    I purchased a Bosch "Universal-fit" O2 sensor, but am skeptical if it will work, because I have read (and measured) an excitation voltage of 4 volts on the signal circuit. What I have read is that this voltage is part of a 'diagnostic function' that Dodge came up with to test the sensor, and only a Dodge O2 sensor will pass, otherwise setting another code/engine light. I am going to try the Bosch sensor in this setup first, since it is half the price of a Dodge sensor, and see if it works. leave it to Dodge to not only send out a defective vehicle, but make proprietary parts for it as well.

    I am going to try this over the weekend and will report back with results. Once I get it all right, I will try to provide more information since Dodge has again "Dodged" the responsibility. By the way Chrysler, I will never buy another of your products, and hope your company folds so we can get junk like this out of America. :lemon:
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    from what I under stand it is only the ground wire that gets contamintated because of a common connection it shares with the power steering ground. It looks like the o2 sensor and PS ground wires join and are connected in the harness about 4- 6 inches above where the upstream sensor wire branch come out. From earlier messages once the PS fluid reaches the o2 sensor connection it can then leak from the ground wire on the harness side into all four wires on the o2 sensor side because of the exposure created at the connection. This can ruin or foul the o2 sensor, the wiring and the connector when you remove and try to test it. I don't know if there is a way to get the PS fluid out of the wires. Other repairs posted involved cutting the connector on the harness side of the o2 connection, replacing all four pins on the harness side of the connector, and bypassing the contaminated ground wire by rerouting an new ground from the o2 sensor to the common ground on the engine block below the water pump.
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