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Thanks :confuse:
I could never pass a smog test with the o2 sensor disconnected because it trips the engine light on (even though the exhaust is very clean.) I have wrote extensively on this discussion forum about the problem. I have a call in to Lithia Dodge Corporate office (the repair shop) to file a complaint about their failure to install the bypass. It would really help to know exactly what the bypass wire looks like (connections, wire length etc.) so when I talk to the corporate office I will be better informed. read my other messages if you like. i will follow your discussions and maybe if we continue to report on any progress we can get both our cars fixed
I want to get an extended warranty on that.
Which company has the best extended warranty?Are 3rd party warranties better than Dealer/Factory warranties?Is Warrantydirect.com a reliable agency?They have some nice deals with pretty decent coverage.Any other suggestions?
Thanks .
I have a 2001 Durango SLT with the same problem. When I crank the eng the first time it does not start. But on the second time it starts and idels rough. Did you ever get yours fixed and if so what was the problem?
Thanks,
Hunter
Debbie
all the dash lights come on and the speedometer, the oil gauge, the battery gauge, the rpm gauge and the gas gauge all stop working. also the light that shows what gear you are in is gone.
once the car warms up all this returns but sometimes im driving for 40 mins before this happens . i live in illinois so its pretty cold in the winter time.
is this some sort of glitch? or is there something broken that can be fixed?
i dont really want to take it to dodge because the last time i did they tried to tell me a whole bunch of stuff was wrong with it that wasnt wrong with it.
ive already replaced the central control modual (or something like that) one of the computers because i lost all the power doors and windows the head lights and the wipers. at least with what ever is wrong right now i can still drive it.
thanks kristen :sick:
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
A warning to anyone going to the dealership for repairs- you go to them with these symptoms and they will charge hundreds even $1000+ replacing o2 sensors, doing fuel injection flush treatments, or replace injectors at $100+ each, or worse. None of this fixes the problem. It has to do with Power Steering (PS) fluid contamination from PS sensor failure, and leakage of the fluid into the harness ground wiring. PS fluid contaminated ground wires cause the PCM (Power Control Module) to send bad signals to systems like the fuel injectors, idle speed control,.and the problem child -the right bank upstream O2 sensor. The weak O2 sensor ground signal is interpreted by the PCM that an overly lean condition is in the right bank of cylinders. The PCM then sends long and short term fuel trim messages to the right bank of fuel injectors sensors to increase fuel mix to max rich causing soot and mileage drop. If you have this problem those are the problem codes the OBD2 will show. (right bank to lean, slow response on several fuel injectors, R bank O2 sensor signal delay) When the car is cold the sensors are inactive and defaulted at 0% which is a clean burning efficient fuel mix.
The whole problem begins with a loss of PS fluid and idle speed variations due to the initial PS switch failure. This occures long before the O2 sensor finally fails. Maybe early detection of PS fluid loss and timely replacement of the PS sensor could save some from this disaster.
Waited too long? there is hope- as I mentioned a simple unplugging of the upstream (from the cat) O2 sensor will bring the operating function back to normal. The PCM signal will stay at zero default mode which won't hurt the car. Gas mileage soot and performance will seem better than they have been for a long time. I went from 14.7 average MPG before the O2 failure. Suddenly I'm down to 8MPG when the problem hits, I now get about 16 average MPG. My engine light is on and because of the this it would not pass a smog test - if that is an issue for you at least you can continue operate the vehicle as normal until you get ti fixed.
I spent over $500 at the dealer for sensors and harness bypass install. They didn't install the harness saying I didn't need it. They didn't install it because THEY DON'T KNOW HOW. The part comes with no instruction or diagram.
I would sure like to see the solution posted on this forum. I will keep checking edmonds and waiting. For all those who don't have to worry about smog certs. and haven't already done so, replace the PS switch (30 bucks and real easy). Leave the new PS switch unpluged- it will just get recontaminated. runs fine unplugged. idle speeds are the best in years,- (PS switch sends to PCM to control idle speed -unplugged defaults to a steady 700rpm). The new PS switch will also stop any PS fluid leak. Finally unplug the upstream right O2 sensor. Secure all loose connector ends with plastic ties away from heat and harms way of the fan belt and exhaust pipe. Your car should run fine unless you have something else wrong. Smog certifiable aside, at least you can use your car without damaging cylinder walls, valves, and the cat. Peace
be happy to give whatever help i can from book or my own exp.
When I finally realized I was going to have to tackle fixing it myself, I found it outright scandelous that I can't find out how to install the harness bypass from my dodge dealership, from Dodge corporate, or from any other Dodge source- internet included. In fact this site is the only place this information is being discussed. This is a unique problem to the 2000 4.7L. In 1999 they didn't have a power steering switch (sensor) and by 2001 they fixed the PS design flaw. I agree with Julia there should have been a recall but it doesn't appear one was ever issued. Instead they just threw the replacement part out there and gave no direction to the dealerships to alert the mechanics, parts people, or the public. And we wonder why GM and Chrysler are tanking?
I purchased a Bosch "Universal-fit" O2 sensor, but am skeptical if it will work, because I have read (and measured) an excitation voltage of 4 volts on the signal circuit. What I have read is that this voltage is part of a 'diagnostic function' that Dodge came up with to test the sensor, and only a Dodge O2 sensor will pass, otherwise setting another code/engine light. I am going to try the Bosch sensor in this setup first, since it is half the price of a Dodge sensor, and see if it works. leave it to Dodge to not only send out a defective vehicle, but make proprietary parts for it as well.
I am going to try this over the weekend and will report back with results. Once I get it all right, I will try to provide more information since Dodge has again "Dodged" the responsibility. By the way Chrysler, I will never buy another of your products, and hope your company folds so we can get junk like this out of America. :lemon: