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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ncdodgeownerncdodgeowner Member Posts: 5
    All of the wires get contaminated at the harness connector junction. There are some people running a separate ground wire and getting results, but I would not recommend this approach for two reasons: 1) you leave the O2 sensor wire in the harness with the power and ground wires for the heater, which it can also short to and ruin the sensor/degrade the signal. 2) the O2 sensor ground is not a ground in the sense of most other components. It is an isolated ground from the PCM that all sensors utilize. Grounding sensors directly to the vehicle chassis is grounding them to the same ground as the ignition coils, starter, and other electrically "noisy" components which can result in a bad signal to the PCM, which will create all the same problems as before. This may not occur immediately, or may never occur, but simply "re-grounding" the O2 sensor is not a good idea for a permanent solution.

    You can replace the pins in the connector, but this still does not remove the ps fluid still coating all of the wires. While this may remove the immediate cause of the problem, the O2 connector is still the low point on this wiring harness, and eventually will again become the collection point for residual fluid in the harness. I can imagine this is why Dodge created a "bypass harness" since they realized that it was the best thing short of removing the entire wiring harness and cleaning the wires with de-greaser. (a viable option if you are that determined :) ), or replacing the whole harness - $$. Unfortunately, it appears that most Dodge "techs" are ignorant of how to install it, since it only occured on one model vehicle, in one model year.

    I sucessfully finished repairing mine yesterday after 1.5 years of screwing with it, researching it, and letting my Durango sit in the yard (could not get it registered with engine light on)

    If you look at an engine wiring diagram (hayes, chilton, etc.) it shows the four wires to the O2 sensor. There is 12V for the heater, a "chassis-ground" for the heater, a signal wire from the sensor, and a "PCM-ground" for the sensor. (I am making up the ground terms to keep them separate, do not look for them in the manual) . I left the sensor connected to the heater and heater ground, since I had proper voltage there, and the heater circuit fuse has not blown. The heater circuit can handle a lot more contamination than the sensor circuit since it can just "burn" through it, so I have left it intact for now since it is not part of the problem.

    I ran two new wires from the sensor, the signal and "PCM" ground wires, up to where the PCM is mounted on top of the right fenderwell in the engine compartment. (the black 'signal' and gray 'ground' wire if you are using a Bosch universal replacement) From there I opened the main harness leading into the PCM and located the wires. The signal is a light green with red stripe,(note there are two wires this color, one is O2, one is transmission, I used trial and error) and the "PCM isolated ground" is black with a blue stripe. The signal wire must be cut, and the new wire from the sensor connected to the end going into the PCM. If you do not cut it, but rather spice it, you have essentially left your sensor connected to the point of contamination that you are trying to avoid. The ground wire must be spliced into the one in the harness bundle so as not to disconnect other devices using the same ground. I used an automotive crimp style spice sold at auto stores.

    So far I have driven 70 miles with no problems. I have a scanner, and both oxygen sensors are reading fine. The front sensor switches from @ 0.080 volts to @ 0.810 volts at a regular interval. The system is running in closed loop mode like it should, and there is no engine light.

    I understand this may be somewhat vague if you are not somewhat handy with automotive wiring, but this post is half a novel already so I will leave it at this for now to see what areas are clear and which are not so they can be answered in future posts. If I get the time I would like to put the whole procedure on a webpage with pictures since Dodge is not really helping anyone and this is the only place on the entire web that is.
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    very informative. There is room for a website where expert mechanics post detailed repairs and answer questions. It would be awesome to see this website take that on,
    I'm sure whoever does it that it could be monetized with ads from every auto part store.
    I still have a couple questions.
    Do you know the wire colors from the original factory o2 sensor- Are they the same as the Bosch?
    You determined the correct wire between the two same-colored wires in the harness @ the PCM (tranny vs O2) using "trial and error". What procedure did you perform, and what result were you looking for, to determine which was the correct wire?.
    Let us all know the name of the webpage if you create it.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think you're there. :shades:

    There's also Edmunds Answers.

    Mostly the trick is using the search tools if you have something specific you need info on and then post if you don't see a thread that helps.
  • durangoroodurangoroo Member Posts: 4
    I do have a (possibly stupid) question, if the PS fluid has made its way to the connection on the PCM, will the bypass wiring solution (running seperate ground from O2 sensor 1 to PCM) still work? thanks!
  • durangoroodurangoroo Member Posts: 4
    FINALLY!!!! ladies and gentlemen, I want to express on how HAPPY I am to find this thread. To date, my Fiance and I (her 00 Durango 4.7L) have spent in excess of $700 thus far trying to figure out this friggin problem. The local shop we had it at recognized the issue, but simply unplugged the harness from PCM and cleaned it. 3 consecutive days in a row, trying to get all the PS fluid out. Still yet, she drives a mile or so and I don't need to explain how the thing runs. Crappy mileage, heavy soot, and it hardly wants to accelerate and sometimes lurches while at stops. I am going to try unplugging the upstream O2 sensor as described previously, just so she can drive it for the time being until we can get enough $$ saved to try and do this bypass harness. Darned Durango has costed us some of our wedding fund!! LOL just trying to keep it light, thanks to all who are posting here to help out!!!!!!!
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    the fluid leaks through the wires from the PS unit to a junction that branches into larger harness about 6-8 inches above the right upstream o2 sensor. Fluid can be seen leaking at that junction and at the O2 sensor outbranch and connection These are the low points in the harness. The PCM on the other hand is way upstream on the terminal end of that section of the harness. To high up to get contaminated (i hope). I suppose if the PS fluid was really leaking bad and had some pressure behind it PS fluid could travel or "wick" uphill and contaminate the PCM but it seems unlikely.. ncdodgeowner's method would likely provide a clean connection by grounding at the or near the PCM using a splice. The other 3 wires can get cross contaminated at the o2 connector from the old ground wire leaking PS fluid at the connector pins and then recontaminate the new ground. A very early message talked about replacing all 4 pins on the harness side of the connector and using a new o2 sensor because those wires are contaminated for sure. Still waiting to hear from ncdodgeowner's repair to see how it worked out and anymore specific details of the repair
  • kandokando Member Posts: 1
    Hello there Mucuna...I have a 2000 D that just showed the check engine lite, i found the code 0551 for the power steering switch. Do you know how to replace one? Can a handy person do it?
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    This is so easy to do yourself and your immediate attention is needed to avoid the possibily of thousands of dollars of repair. You can purchase the sensor from your dodge part dealer. they will look up the part for you. (power steering sensor switch) it is about 25 bucks!. they will ask for your VIN # so have it handy when you go there. Buy a quart of PS fluid also.
    To remove the old sensor, you can locate it on a metal tube right below the backside of the PS fluid resevoir. Easy to work on and freely visible. It is a silver color - looks like a lug nut- with a black connector and two wires coming out of it (black, green w/red stripe). Uncouple the connector at the sensor (it has a little side clip you squeeze in with your fingers (should come off freely). The sensor itself can be unscrewed with a common wrench . PS Fluid will come pouring out but this is better than draining the entire PS system- you should only lose a small amount of fluid out of the resevoir which you can top off later- use you finger to keep to much fluid from leaking out while you switch the sensors. With all these components you should used firm tighting but don't herf on it and strip the threads. replug in the connector and your done. Spray off the PS fluid from any painted, rubber parts by using a water hose (PS fluid corrodes paint and rubber).
    A bigger issue however is if you have PS fluid in the harness wiring from the bad PS sensor leaking into the wiring. If that is the case it will (or could) eventually travel through the harness down under the car and contaminate the ground wire of one of your O2 sensors. When this happens you performance gets so bad the car is virtually undrivable. Dogde dealers in general have no clue about the causality of this problem and proceed in doing thousands of dollars of needless repairs, There are allot of 2000 dodge durangos out there with this problem and dodge dealers are making $book$ on the repairs. I believe this is one reason they don't invest in educating the repair techs on a national level. The proper fix should only run about 400 dollars replacing an o2 sensor and doing a o2 wiring bypass through the harness.
    Check the PS sensor connector immediately for PS fluid leaks. You may have even notice losing PS fluid on the ground. If you have any PS fluid in the connector when you remove it from the PS sensor leave it disconnected until you make the sensor replacement repair. Your car will run fine- in fact it may stabilize your idle RPM since a bad PS sensor sends bad signal to the PCM - idle control module.
  • durangoroodurangoroo Member Posts: 4
    Mucuna thanks for your reply. I did disconnect the upstream O2 sensor, and did notice that the connector itself was saturated with PS fluid. However after I disconnected the sensor I am happy to say that my Fiance can at least drive the vehicle now until we find out more details on the repair. I did contact a dodge technician from the dealership that does side work, and have yet to hear back from him on the issue. again thanks to everyone on here who is helping out.
  • ncdodgeownerncdodgeowner Member Posts: 5
    I do not know the original sensor wire colors. The trial and error was just that. I thought I had spliced into the correct wire, until it set a transmission code. I only realized that there were two wires of that color after reviewing the wiring diagram. When I switched to the other, the O2 reading showed correctly.

    Update: I have put 350+ miles on the Durango with no further O2 issues. I was finally able to get it to pass the state OBDII emmissions test and back on the road. The Bosch universal sensor seems to be working fine. I read elsewhere that it is later model Durangos that must have an OEM sensor to work. Way to go Dodge - plan your own obsolescence!

    The wiring that I installed for the bypass was very rudimentary and "fly by night" so I plan to get back under there and clean it up, since I do not believe it would last the long haul. I just did what was necessary to prove weather it would work or not, and so far it has been sucessful. I am getting an overall average 16 mpg, which is "unfortunately" good for this vehicle, but better than 6mpg, which I was getting when all of this started.

    Start this repair by purchasing a bosch universal fit oxygen sensor for your car since your sensor is likely bad anyway. Follow the instructions as written to match up wiring. The instructions give all of the wiring codes. Once you identify the signal and ground wires, do not connect them as instructed. Instead, utilize the splice supplied, but do not hook up the corresponding signal and ground wires from the old connector, only hook up the two heater wires. Run two wires separately from the splice kit up to the PCM from the signal and ground, carefully routing them with wire-ties and or some wire braiding cover to protect them since this is all located near the hot exhaust pipes.

    Once you have the two wires routed to the engine compartment, you will need to cut open the large wire bundle that snakes around from the back of the engine to the PCM (a box with several wire bundles leading to it, NOT the fuse box) I made my splices between the back of the engine compartment and the PCM where you can open the bundle cleanly along about a 8" section. For the signal wire, you must cut the light green wire with a red stripe on it. NOTE: there are two of these, the other one goes to the tranny, so you can either continue cutting the bundle open to figure out where each one goes, or try one, then the other. Connect your signal wire to the end of this wire that leads to the PCM. As for the other end of the wire, you can just leave it hang. It is the source of contamination, and leaving it in the circuit defeats the purpose of the bypass.

    For the ground wire, locate one of a couple of black wires with a blue stripe on it. There are a couple, but according to the diagram they are all common to one another, so it should not matter which one you use. They are all isolated signal ground. Again, you can spend a lot of time tracing this out if you want, but once you see how difficult this is in the tight space, you again understand why dodge just said bypass it. For this connection, you do not want to cut the wire, but rather splice into it. They sell crimp style connectors for this at all auto stores which enables you to connect one wire to an existing wire without cutting it and having a big nasty three wire splice. If you cannot find these connectors, you can just cut the wire, but you must connect them all back together to keep other sensors connected also. That is the extent of it. After testing, you can neatly incorporate your bypass wires into the wire bundle and close it up with zip-ties or electrical tape. Of course, you will need to reset your codes, and it is helpful to have a scanner available that you can read O2 sensor values to ensure all is well before closing up. Good luck!
  • go1go1 Member Posts: 1
    after reading this I googled ps pressure switch and got nothing did I read you correctly I need to replace this part to stop the o2 sensor problem..?
    thanks
    go1
  • durangoroodurangoroo Member Posts: 4
    yes, replace the sensor asap. then inspect the wiring behind the connector to see if there is any power steering fluid on it. if it has contaminated the wiring, welcome to our world.

    P.s.- mucuna is the man. our savior thus far on this seeminlgly crazy battle.
  • 2000dd2000dd Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I know you posted this quite a while ago, but I'm now having similar problems. Sometimes my 2000 Dodge Durango simply will not turn over at all. If I move the shifter from "Park" into "Neutral", it will start up. I replaced the switch on the side of the transmission, but that did not solve the issue. Any suggestions?

    Thanks!
  • ncdodgeownerncdodgeowner Member Posts: 5
    (2000 Durango SLT) My ABS and brake light are on and stay on. They were intermittent as you described for several months. I finally investigated and found the rear speed sensor to be cracked. I replaced it, but the lights remain. Needless to say, I have no ABS as it will lock the wheels up real easily on a wet road. I have heard that the ABS must be reset by either the dealer or an ABS diagnostic tool. I have also heard that once it is repaired properly the lights go out on their own. I have let this go for a long time to fix other problems (like the O2 sensor fiasco) but now I am back to driving the truck and trying to get the rest of it right. I am trying to figure out if I need to fix something else, or just get it reset? I do not like going to the dealership unless I absolutely have to because they are as corrupt as they come. Has anyone worked on a 2000 SLT ABS system?
  • cdean1121cdean1121 Member Posts: 1
    I have never had any problems till now. 5.9l motor
    the truck starts fine but will not shift to any position i was told by dealer it is neutral safety switch i am currently in the process of putting new one on. old one came off simple new one is a real pain just dont want to go in.......
    PLEASE any help would be great :mad:
  • rchiirchii Member Posts: 7
    Hey! This is exactly what we are having trouble with. We just purchased a 2000 Durango with a 4.7 in it. It started by giving me a 551 code(power steering switch). Then it added a misfire detected on cylinder #8. Now it has several other codes. However, it has started running extremely rich and idling rough. Black smoke comes pouring out of the tailpipe, especially when excelerating. Please! tell me what you did to remedy the situation. I will put the steering switch in tomorrow.

    Thank you!

    Bob
    rchii@hotmail.com
  • iuboundiubound Member Posts: 3
    How much can a Durango, with Hemi, Tow package , and 3.55 axle ratio tow? The dealers I speak to our clueless. Do I need the 3.93 axle ratio?

    What experiences does anyone out there have?

    My boat weights 4350 lbs, and my trailer 1500 lbs.

    thanks.
  • iuboundiubound Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone tell me what they are towing with a Hemi? Do you know your axle ratio? Does it matter? I am told that your can only pull the maximum 8750 lbs with the 3.93 axle ratio, and less with the 3.55.

    thanks.
  • jchappeljchappel Member Posts: 16
    I am towing a 5,000lb boat with no problem. I have the tow package, but have no idea what my axle ratio is. I am supposed to be able to tow up to 8900lbs.
  • iuboundiubound Member Posts: 3
    Does the 5000 lb boat include the trailer, or is that extra?
  • dickh41dickh41 Member Posts: 1
    After replacing front brake pads, the malfunction indicator light came on, and 2 codes were set relating to a brake switch. Is this a switch that needs to be reset? If so, where is it? Also, since this happened, the cruise control does'nt work.
  • mucunamucuna Member Posts: 19
    you responded to maybe the origional blog on this subject. your car will not run more normally until you disconnect the upsteam rt bank o2 sensor. Read back on all the other responses in this forum to this problem. it dominates this space.
  • syracuse49syracuse49 Member Posts: 1
    hello i have a 2001 durango. and i just put a trany in it. but i had a auto shop take it out and he didn't want to put the new/used trany back in. this guy lost a lot of the part's to my trany and the transfer casing. so i did get the trany and the transfer casing back in.

    but not my problem is on top of my transfer casing there's a line there but i cant fine a hose to hook up to that line on the casing. i need help real bad. i was thinking that it might not take a hose but i cant put trany fluid in because i'm thinking that when i start the truck it's going to shoot out the fluid. can anyone help??????
  • poopsiegapoopsiega Member Posts: 2
    I noticed that the carpet on the passenger side of my 2002 durango was wet so I peeled it back to see what the problem was. I had about 2 inches of water under the carpet. I used a wetvac to get it out. I guess my AC is draining inside. Can anyone tell me how to unclogg the drain so it will drain outside?
  • clovescloves Member Posts: 3
    ncdodgeowner, thanks for this write up! I am putting together a tutorial with diagrams and photos to help other Durango owners out there. I will be putting on one of the dodgetalk.com forums since edmunds is really a poor read imo. This thread alone is littered with other cross posts making it a hard read.

    One question I have. You left the ground (S108 - which is the common ground connected the Power steering pressure switch) attached? Since this is the cause of the contamination intially, wouldn't this eventually flow fluid back into the new O2 sensor?

    I did a small test, swapping both the PSPS and the O2 sensor and drove for about 12 miles and then checked both. Both had fluid showing at each connection.
  • clovescloves Member Posts: 3
    Well I just picked up the Bosch universal sensor and wired it up. I ran the sensor wire, pcm ground and a ground upto to the pcm. The other wire, which the book calls fuse cut off, I pulled from the original o2 hook up since it was dirty.

    After routing everything and taking a drive I am getting a p0132 (P0132 ($3E) = 1/1 02 Sensor Shorted to Voltage ). I don't know why this is happening.

    I cut the sensor wire as ncdodgeowner stated and using a butt plug hooked them both up. I didn't solder the connection because in the book it says not to solder because the solder blocks oxygen.

    Then I found the pcm ground and spliced into that connection using one of the press down connectors. I also ran a new ground and plugged that into the standard ground.

    Anyone have any suggestions?
  • clovescloves Member Posts: 3
    I fixed my code issue by ordering the Denso Oxygen Sensor for the upstream. The Bosch universal was the problem. Its not up to correct specs like the Denso which are OEM. Cheapest spot to get them is via amazon.com.
  • dirtyhands67dirtyhands67 Member Posts: 3
    I have a '98 5.2 liter that has no ignition fire from the coil. All electrical systems work. All warning lights activate.

    I have replaced the coil and the crank position sensor and still no fire. :confuse:

    Please respond with any ideas.
  • vscorneliusvscornelius Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Dodge Durango stalled while driving. When trying to start it back up, the engine turns over but does not start. Thick white smoke came out of the exhaust and the RPM gage was bouncing erratically with out the engine running. What is wrong. I hope someone can help me. The car has stalled before while parking at our home but never while driving. I informed the the mechanic of this and they said nothing was wrong.
  • dm4everdm4ever Member Posts: 2
    DOES ANY ONE HAVE A DIAGRAM OR PICS ON LOCATION WHERE THE BLOWER MOTOR IS or where the sensor for the fan speed i guess is thanks
  • tontontonton Member Posts: 2
    Who did you talk to, to get dodge to pay for your PCM. I beleive I need to have mine replaced.
  • tontontonton Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Dodge durango and It jerks and sometimes shuts down while I am driving no engine light no codes. I have ask mech. and they have no Idea what is wrong. After reading so many complaints I am starting to think it is the PCM. It has been doing this for about a month now. Its just now getting hard to start on occasions it runs great other wise. Also have another problem my ABS, and brake Light is on. Had my brakes and rotors replaced Lights are still on I have read it could be the ABS module. Brakes still seems to not be working right but do work. Can any on help. Cant afford to spend alot on money on this but need my Durango gets me back and forth to work and get kids around. Afraid to put the kids in with it dyeing on me while I am driving. Help Help
  • copetecopete Member Posts: 1
    replaced 318 motor with one from rolled vehicle, no fire to coil and code is 0320 ignition distributor engine speed input curcuit malfunction, how do I fix or what is it??
  • debrob1981debrob1981 Member Posts: 3
    went to auto zone and picked up the throttle position sensor for $29.99 plus tax and it 5 mintues and it fixed the problem, no more eractic idle. thank you so much
  • srussell5srussell5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Durango and need some serious help. This thing gets real bad fuel mileage.I mean it drinks an 1/8 of tank just running to store and back in city limits. Check engine light did come on. Had it checked at Auto zone. Came back as P0740(Torque Converter Clutch) and P0783(3-4 Solenoid). Now Im really stuck on what to do next. Would changing the Tranny Fluid help this or is there something I can do to try to fix this? Or are we talking like a Tranny Rebuild.Or should I try to change the Solenoids? Any Help would be super. If anyone else has had this problem please tell...Thanks, Shawn
  • crawfish1crawfish1 Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 Durango Remote Keyless Entry system just quit working. I changed the battery in the remote key, checked for blown fuse, tried re-programing keys, and disconnected battery to re-boot the modular. Nothing worked. Any suggestions?
  • mariea_lynnmariea_lynn Member Posts: 1
    Can someone please help me out on this? I would appreciate it. Anyways, I bought a 1998 dodge durango, it had a stalling problem, not all the time. I took it to a friend that has the code and it came up the o2 sensor, so I had that replaced. Reset the sensor and the light came back on, so I knew I had to get the other o2 sensor, well before I could do that I went shopping and started heading back home. The durango started making this funny noise and the check gauges light came on. So I looked at the gauges and the oil said it was low and the car had said it had overheated. After the vehicle had cooled down I checked the oil and the coolant and everything else and they were all full. I got it to start back up and headed down the highway again, but it made the noise again. I had an engine put into it and every since then it rolls over but will not start. It also had other parts put into it. If anyone has any information that will help me out onto why its rolling over but will not start can you please reply back so that I can get my vehicle started again.....Thanks
  • tinkerertinkerer Member Posts: 13
    First off, the code reader would tell you which O2 sensor was setting the code (upstream or downstream) so you only need to replace the defective one. Need to know what type of noise it was making (stumbling, back-firing, etc.) If it sounded like small backfire under your feet and the O2 sensor was still bad, you could have been dumping fuel into the engine which will cause a misfire and could lead to excessive unburned fuel flowing into the exhaust where it will partially burn and sound like a small pop as the engine bucks. How did the exhaust smell when this happened? Did it burn your eyes?

    When you say you had an engine put into it, are you saying you had the entire engine replaced??? If so, have the person that did it get it running. Since you threw that variable into the mix, it could be just about anything causing it to not start from a connection left un-done, crimped wire, blown fuse, clogged fuel filter/line, etc. Start by checking fuel and spark and work your way back from there. Remember that the motors, in the Durango, are Benz motors and are about as bullet-proof as you will find in an American SUV. The sensors that control it, on the other hand, are usually where your problems will come from. Stop "shot-gunning" the problem and work methodically to trouble shoot where the problem(s) are.
  • bdewbdew Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. I took it to a local dealership(not 5 star). they kept it for 3 days and couldn't fix it. They said they called the regional office and got no help. They wanted me to write a letter to Chrysler requesting assistance. I thought it was a joke. I took it to a 5 star dealership (which closed down a few weeks ago by Chrysler) about 20 miles from my house and they fixed it in about 10 minutes for free. Not sure what it was, but the first group was clueless.

    Try another dealership.
  • rdnck84404rdnck84404 Member Posts: 1
    Yep about 3 years ago mine had the same problem
    Finally I found a blog and it told me to disconnect the neg batter terminal
    hang out for 5 minutes or so. Hook it back up and guess what everything was fine again. Havent had that problem again
  • crawfish1crawfish1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I'll try that.
  • kenn5kenn5 Member Posts: 1
    ncdodgeowner, your posts are extremely informative and I appreciate them as they are the only help on the problem. I was wondering if you ever did document the whole proceedure and put it on a webpage and if so what is the address of that page?
    I did locate an oxygen sensor by-pass harness and have one on order. I need to identify the wires to the sensor in order to make the splices. Your information would by very helpful.
  • tracym2tracym2 Member Posts: 1
    Okay First off six months ago my radio in my 2006 Durango would only come on about every 4 out of 10 times. You could cranked it and it would play then you stop and shut it off it would not play. After a number of times of cranking the radio would play again.

    Now sometimes I go to crank it and it will not start, touch jumper cable to it and it start, that was a month ago. Thursday, I drove it to the store, radio was playing, got back in to start it and battery was dead and no radio. I was only in the store 5 mins.

    Could it be a short in the radio or in the key switch?
  • emimemim Member Posts: 5
    Hi all.. I have a Dodge Durango 2006... I got the code P0432... Is this the 02 sensor? Where is the sensor located? Any detailed help would e greatly appreciated.. Thanks
  • tellis84tellis84 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Durango with a 318. There is no heat. The blower motors and vent selectors work fine. What would be the issue?
  • aray2aray2 Member Posts: 15
    Did you check the thermostat? It could also be the water pump. What does the temp gauge read when warmed up?
  • rmcclanahanrmcclanahan Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem. It is your heater core. Take it to a shop and ask to have the heater core backflushed. Should cost you like $40. Will blast heat after that.
  • a1vikingfana1vikingfan Member Posts: 1
    When i turn the key on in my 2002 durango the drivers side window automatically rolls down anyone no why
  • mqmmqm Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have a solution to this? I am having the same problem. Thanks
  • kruse2muchkruse2much Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 dodge durango that's having trouble with this chicago winter. Besides being difficult to start, (and I've had regular maintainance), it now will not turn off! I parked outside my home, put the gear in park, braked and removing key as usual. ENGINE IS STILL RUNNING!! So the car is outside, running with no key. How can I quickly resolve this problem for tonight and what's going on here?

    thanks for your advice! jk
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