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Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!

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Comments

  • zonkzonk Posts: 208
    Yeah, we have the same problem flying helicopters.
  • yank2yank2 Posts: 49
    As many of you know I have been having a rear end whine since March of 2000. After many times to the Dealer and many bad words to the Dealer Rep. I have got some results. All I wanted is for the rear end whine to go away. I have had many new trucks and I really liked my 2000 Dakota. I just came back from a trip to Winston Salem NC.. and got 21 miles to the gallon. No whine at 70 plus but at 50 all the time. Well right now they are trying to find me a new truck with what I want on it. Only cost to me will difference of current vehicle. It has been a lot of work and a pain in the you know what but I hope my new Dakota will be as good as the last except for the rear end whine. Thanks for all your help.
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    If you have the means to take pics and post em, I'll bring the truck by to do so. Besides, I have to see your new ride anyway.
    Bob
  • stnickstnick Posts: 177
    My thumwheel also gets warm ,and it is the heat dissipated by turning your dash lights lower, but it would be far worse if the headlight switch didn't have a heat sink at the rear of the switch. I noticed it when I changed the switch as part of the mopar fog light kit I installed last year. Don't worry its normal, Nick.
  • stnickstnick Posts: 177
    Just curious Robert, did dealer ever change out the complete rear end, not just the gears? Nick
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    yes, they rebuilt it 5 times and replaced it once and the problem would get a little better then within a week or so it would be just as bad as ever.

    they could not figure it out so they just replaced the whole truck.

    robert
  • yank2yank2 Posts: 49
    They changed a lot of parts but not the whole rear. all I wanted was a new whole rear but they are giving me a new truck it looks like it will be a 2002.
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    see, both of us answered your question, and now i see his name is robertt also so im assuming that my answer didnt matter hahaha

    good luck yank2

    robert
  • stnickstnick Posts: 177
    Don't now if you caught my earlier posts on my trucks history on this subject, but I'll post again. Had whine at 50 to 55 mph from day one. My dealer wanted to give it some time before getting into it. At about 10k he ordered ring, pinion gears, but didn't leave them in because they wouldn't set up any better than the original set, so he promptly ordered a complete rear, housing and all, theorizing that one of the housing tubes was bent, either at manufacture, or damaged in transit. New one took care of problem. Now you guys got ME whining because they fixed my whine and you two got new trucks instead! Good luck with them. Nick
  • yank2yank2 Posts: 49
    I tried to get what you got a new complete rear end but the female rep said no way. She said if I don't like the truck to sell it. So now I am getting a new one and I hope I like it as well as my 2000 less the whine.
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    glad my rep didnt give me any lip and just bought mine back and did a deal on another one.

    i hope all turns out well with you guys.

    robert
  • hairydoghairydog Posts: 44
    Just got through with four trips to the dealer to find the flooding problems. Happy to say so far no further leaks detected.

    My Dak now hit nine thousand miles and a very noticeable pulsation occurred every time I feathered the brakes.

    Dealer took my Dak for a spin and came back to tell me it hops and pulsates upon braking.

    Dealer turned front and rear rotors and vibration
    has ceased.

    Is this a rarity or is it normal to have rotors fail at less than nine thousand miles?
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    Dakota town hall.
    See my other posts, I don't feel like typing anymore!
    Good luck, I am still struggling to get this fixed on my rig.
    2000 Club Cab, 4WD, 4.7 schitzo 45RFE and three sets of rotors two sets of drums and we're not done yet!
  • hairydoghairydog Posts: 44
    Mopar: I have a good friend who has serviced every vechicle imaginable over a fourty five year period. I asked him to look at my rotors and give his opinion. He said the metal on the rotors appeared to be constructed of the cheapest quality materials in existence. He also recommended going the route of after market rotors to avoid what appears to be inevitable problems. Classic case is your continuous problems.

    I have also asked my Dodge folks what can I expect to fail in the coming years. One is the Tranny and Air Conditioning. As for the Tranny they seriously recommend servicing at 25,000 miles and a good extended warranty to off set the costs potential A/C problems.

    In the next two years you will be seeing D/C facing their greatest challenge. Financial crisis of the highest magnitude is in their future. Our mechanical problems will be their least concern.

    I must admit the various post I have read at Edmunds Town Hall have been very helpful. Maybe not what I want to always hear but helpful.

    Thanks for your time.
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    You hit the nail right on the head. With DC financial situation, several critical vehicle launches upcoming, I aggree with you that quality control and procurement of high quality parts is probably way down on their list. See why NAFTA is a joke of the highest order?
    BTW, our critical brake parts came to us courtesy of our neighbor to the south)
    Glad to hear you found postings here helpful. I've learned a lot from reading posts (which is why I have nearly all bpeebles postings in print! And if you only read half of what he says, you'll know more than most of the technicans at the dealer!)
    Almost everyone here can shed light on stuff. Its too bad Bob Lutz hooked up with GM. Well in GMs case, its probably a good thing. After all this was the guy who pushed the Ram, Viper, and the cab forward LH cars. I wish him well, he has his work cut out for him at GM. It would have been great to see him back at DC. God only knows they need someone like him right now.
  • drdakotadrdakota Posts: 24
    I have a 2001 QC with Full Time AWD and have had no problems to date (6 months). Within the last week, I've noticed two things I question and hope they're not going to be problems.

    The first is a rough transmission change at about 30-35 mph when I let off the gas.

    The second is an odd "whirring" sound when I turn of the ignition. It is as if some metal disk is slowing down. It makes this sound for 2-3 seconds after the engine is turned off.

    Any one have any experience or thoughts on these?
  • bja4bja4 Posts: 67
    Over 10K on 2000 Dakota 4x4 Sport Plus. At at least half of these miles with 1300 pound Northstar camper on it. I rotate my own wheels after having some kid at Sears over tighten the lung-nuts with an air gun on my last Dakota. It's not much fun rotating wheels/tires, but aleast I won't be using a trucker's three foot cheater bar to brake lug-nuts off to change a flat.

    I have the one-ton package and know some of the braking components are different(larger brakes, drums). Has anyone had brake problems with the one-ton package?
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    I have the 2000 lb payload and no problems. The difference in the brakes is that the rear drums are 11 X 2 instead of the 9 X2.5. Thats the reason I got that package, bigger brakes.
  • rickg3rickg3 Posts: 1
    I own a 1992 Dakota with a 3.9 magnum v6 in it and I am now having problems with it cutting out when I am driving down the road. The only thing that I have noticed about the problem is that the maintenance required light on the dash will go out that has been on for the last 2 years. When this happens, the starter will turn the engine but it will not start until the maintenance light comes back on. Sometimes it will start right up when it dies driving down the road and other times it will not start for long periods of time. It has stranded me for up to an hour. I have been told that it could be a relay problem but after swapping all of the relays in the relay box around, it still does it whenever it feels like it. Anyone else had that type of problem? If anyone knows the magic fix for this I would like to know it too.
  • dodgetrukndodgetrukn Posts: 116
    Wondering if anyone actually tried to deflect the a/c condensation dripaway frm the exhaust
    pipe..I looked to see if there was any way to attach some hose on a fitting, but it looks like a
    drip pan type. Anyone rig or know a "purchased" kit.?? to allow the water to NOT drip on the
    exhaust.??
    Bobs5, going in for my 3750 mile checkup,,actually have ~ 4100 miles. Gonna see if they
    fix my drivers side door weatherstripping (poor installation), cracked drivers side headlight lense
    from day one (didn't see it till I got home from dealer), and swap in synthetic and friction modifier
    for my 3.92-lsd rear. Appt on the 29th of aug.
    Ger.
This discussion has been closed.