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Volkswagen Golf Electrical/Lighting Questions

24

Comments

  • jabnecojabneco Member Posts: 1
    Hello.
    I was wondering how you got on with your problem of the engine cutting out ? I have exactly the same problem and was about to try the injection cleaning fluid but wont bother now I know it doesnt work. I know of another person with a similar problem so its obviously a known issue and you would have thought that a solution was available.

    Cheers.
  • insomniinsomni Member Posts: 4
    Engine seems to be working fine. The one thing I did notice is that I had my rear right running light out and the bulbs were all brand new. I checked out my fuses and found that one of them blew out so I replaced it. But once I replaced it, my engine was jerking a little. Pretty much the same thing as before but not so bad. A little later, my engine was running fine. I later realized that my rear right running light was out again. There is some connection with my fuse and the engine. I need to investigate further. So far, engine is fine, rear right light is out temporarily. :surprise: Check your fuses too. I'm now thinking of trading in for a newer model.
  • magnetmanmagnetman Member Posts: 1
    Hi I recently bought a 96 golf 2.0, automatic, and recently the horn stopped working and the car stereo won't turn on. I think it might be the fuses as it is missing the stereo fuse, If someone could tell me which color fuse goes in that spot I would apreciate it greatly. Thank you.
  • jpmccormacjpmccormac Member Posts: 98
    In the fuse panel (reading left to right) fuse #13, which is a 10 amp red fuse, controls the horn.

    Fuse #22 controls the radio. It is a 10 amp red fuse.

    This info. is from my '96 Golf's Owner's Manual. Hope this helps.
  • insomniinsomni Member Posts: 4
    hi..fuse panel reads from left to right. based on my manual (95 Golf CL), fuse 22 controls the radio, lighter, (if any)remote luggage, (if any)compartment release. It is a 10 amp fuse -red. If the fuse blows repeatedly, you will need to find where the cause of the short circuit or overload is causing the fuse to blow. (this is of course happening to me with my right running tail light) :mad:
  • allennefallennef Member Posts: 4
    When my manual 97 Golf CL has been parked in the hot sun for a while, I have a problem starting it. I turn the key in the ignition and there is absolutely no reponse. Dead. After 4 or 5 or more efforts at turning the key in the ignition, the starter will engage with no problem. I'm wondering if it could be something to do with the connection to the clutch as I have to depress the clutch pedal to start it. I have had the starter rebuilt TWICE (one by the dealership and once ourselves) and this does not solve the problem. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Any ideas?
  • hamidghamidg Member Posts: 1
    hi all, my first ever post!!
    i bought a golf tdi 150 02 plate a few weeks ago. Everything was fine and running well until last week as the weather was wet the dash would say LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT open. it wasnt! noticed it happens consistently when wet! then yesterday when pressing the key fob to alarm the car, the locks went down but the indicators did not flash to confirm alarm was on. continued today. any ideas?
    are the two problems connected? could it be the boot sensor?

    cheers!
  • we_hate_golfswe_hate_golfs Member Posts: 1
    hi there

    we had exactly the same problem and now have other problems, apart from advising you to sell it, we would suggest to take the car to a garage that has electronic diagnostic testing device, they will put the car on and re-set the ECU back to factory settings. Hope this helps
  • pcreeseypcreesey Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 VW GOLF GTI 1.8T and have had an annoying problem where my engine oil pressure light keeps on going off and ive taken it to the mechanic atleast 5 times and ive had my oil pump fixed and the engine pressure indicatior. The mechanic keeps telling me the engine is runing very smoothly and the VW dealership told me to do fix exactly what i fixed and the light keeps going on, can anyone help me with this problem? all i want is for the light to stop going off and beeping at me every time i drive
  • jdiaz3jdiaz3 Member Posts: 2
    Hey, I have the same problem, same car, and resently found out that the problem is the ignition switch, the good nwes is that the part is only about $25, the bad news is that it is a pain....to replace it. What you can try to test it is to rtemove the plastic cover from behind the steer8ing wheel, where the ignition goes, then you should see a black connector leading to the ignition switch, disconnect it and bypass the red wire and red/black wire, if the started runs(only the starter, the car will crank but not start) then this is most likely the problem. Watch out when bypassing the wires do the red/blkack first(high current)
  • colleenr18colleenr18 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out what the problem is? The reason I ask is that I am having the same problem...I have a 2003 Golf (automatic) and sometimes when I accelerate, the car jerks forward. There is no pattern as to when it happens, but it usually happens within 5-10 minutes of driving. I have taken it into the dealership a few times, but of course, they can't replicate the problem or find anything wrong. I was hoping that you may found out what the problem is and how to fix it...
  • allennefallennef Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply and the advice, jdiaz3. Yes, you are right, I took the car to the VW dealership today and they diagnosed the ignition switch was faulty, replaced it and it seems to be working fine now, I decided to go to the dealership as it's such a pain to get in under/behind the steering wheel. BTW the replacement part is $44 here in Canada + about $200 labour!!
  • insomniinsomni Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem a while ago when I had an oil and filter change. The beeping noise drove me nuts. I thought it was my indicators and replaced them. Check the type of oil you are using or the type of oil that was used in your car. I found that VW engines need a high viscosity oil. I use a Castrol 10w40 grade even in the summer. No more beeping
  • allennefallennef Member Posts: 4
    3 niggly little electrical problems with my 97 VW Golf CL... has anyone had similar?
    1. Both front and rear indicators on drivers side flash very fast and very faintly when indicating a left turn. Bulbs are good. Right indicators are working fine.
    2. Intermittent windshield wiper has died, but other speeds are working fine.
    3. Hatchback door no longer opens with the electronic button key, however, it will open when I press the button in the glove box. All other functions (doors, alarm etc) on the electronic key still work. :D
    I know that the local VW dealer will charge me a fortune just to find out what might be wrong.
  • brkdwnbrkdwn Member Posts: 3
    In fun, I recently replaced my heater core in my car--and at the time it was the only thing that was wrong. Once I had the dash completely reassembled my car would not start. When attempting to turn over, there was a clicking sound (starter) followed by the cd player trying to eject repeatedly, then the alarm would click weakly trying to go off, finally succeeding. I was told that if the battery was not fully charged this would happen. Charged the battery and it is doing the same thing. Any ideas since my reassembly was the reverse order of the removal?
    Thanks kindly.
  • sreinbergsreinberg Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    I have a 2000 Golf. The clock and odometer both just went out. Does anyone know why and how to fix it?
  • turbobabyturbobaby Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 2001 1.8T Golf, and I love it!!! Recently I have been having trouble, my car will not start up first thing in the morning. It will stall about two times and when I finally get it started, the engine will idle about 1000 rpms higher than the normal idle. After warming it up it runs great for the rest of the day. My check engine light has been on, the problems are; P0116 Engine Coolant Temp CKT Rang/Perf and P1296 Manfacurer(Not spelled wrong?) Contrl.Fuel Air Metering. I was just wondering if anyone knew exactly what part I should be buying. My brother said he would work on it but he is not used to German cars and he does not know where to start. Thanks to anyone who helps me along the way. PS. I just recently replaced my water pump, thought the P0116 error would go away.
  • drewpeacockdrewpeacock Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 golf. when i press the brake to go from park to drive, it seems that the locking mechanism won't disengage leaving me stranded in park. it won't shift from park to drive and seems to be totally locked up. had to tow it to mechanic. anyone have the same problem?
  • zoom02zoom02 Member Posts: 2
    When I had a problem with the fob not funcionting correctly, the dealer suggested I bring it in. After much grunting and many I don't knows, they just put the key in the lock and turned it. Problem fixed! I dont know why they didn't just sugget I try this before stopping in. Apparently actually using the key resets the system. Might save you a trip. :D
  • zoom02zoom02 Member Posts: 2
    About 2 months ago my engine light came on and went off (reset?) after I turned the car off and restarted it. Now it has happened again, but wont turn off.

    I had a problem 2 years ago with carbon build up in my EGR valve, to the point that the car would not start. Only at that time there was no indication or warning of impending trouble.

    Does anyone think I should have the this could indicate another build up of carbon? I've been using the lower sulfur fuel, but stopped using additive. Would simply using additive again help?

    I love my TDI, but just spent $$ on new brakes and would like to avoid any costly repairs right now. 65,000 miles, I know to change the belt around 80k. Ideas? :confuse:
  • gorongogorongo Member Posts: 1
    2001 1.8t GLS
    Same problem. Mechanic said fault coses were all over and wouldn't repeat. I just warm it up and drive normally after that.
    I replaced a taillight bulb last night, tested it, and now my interior lights, moon roof and windows don't work. Fuses are fine.
    Any thoughts on that?
  • shelley2shelley2 Member Posts: 17
    Am going to view one of these in the near future. I believe it may be the newer shape. Asking price is £400.00, full MOT and 3 months' tax. Are there any problems to watch out for and how many different 1600 diesel models were there made? I think it is a good car as I had a 1300 petrol about 2 years ago which was on an E plate.
  • peter1976peter1976 Member Posts: 1
    We have a L Reg golf which has starterd to suffer from a strange electrical fault. When you try to use either the front/rear windscreen wipers, or the ventilation fan, they seem dead. Yet after about 10 to 30 minutes they start working.

    Has anyone had a similar problem?

    Thanks
  • guayoguayo Member Posts: 3
    I seem to have the same problem with my 1998 Golf. The car won't start anytime there's a little cold weather (early in the morning and late night) Whenever I can start it, have to step in the gas for some time, (if not the car stops at idle speed). Some other times this happens after running 1 mile or so.
    The technician, says there's no error code from the scanner and has replaced an electrical device which name I don't know (it's not the alternator, but a winding connected to the distributor) It helped for four days, but with winter season entering the region, I have the same problem. Where should I continue? :sick:
  • rokyroky Member Posts: 3
    I take my golf to WV dilership and its there 3-4 days..They cant find why fuse for a position lights on right side burning all the time,specialy when car are in motion..So if anybody know what is the problem,please help me..I am sick giving them a money and they dont fix anything,or they dont know to fix it..
    Thanks..
  • rokyroky Member Posts: 3
    :mad: I take my golf to WV dilership and its there 3-4 days..They cant find why fuse for a position lights on right side burning all the time,specialy when car are in motion..So if anybody know what is the problem,please help me..I am sick giving them a money and they dont fix anything,or they dont know to fix it..
    Thanks
  • antureanture Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    I have a 1995 Golf. The clock, odometer and fuel gauge all just went out. Does anyone know why and how to fix it?
    Please help!!!
  • guayoguayo Member Posts: 3
    Finally the problem was solved, since there was no error code form the scanner, the technician focussed in the electrical devices. It turned out that the distributor had a little fracture that would enlarge at cold wheather preventing the engine from starting and stopping after a few miles. :)
  • zinger2zinger2 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2004 golf. Sometimes, especially if it's been sitting for 6 or more hours, I will start the car and the generator/battery light comes on. That's when I can't put it into drive. The manual says to rev the engine a bit when that light stays on and while in park. That worked for me last night. I still brought it to the dealership today but they couldn't find anything that was directly causing this. They did replace the brake light switch and the technician said this MIGHT be the cause.

    Anyone know for sure why the car won't shift out of park?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Obviously, if the owners manual mentions it, this is designed into the vehicle. I suspect it is a "safety feature" that disables the shift lever unless the engine is running. An easy way for a designer to check for engine running is to check that alternator is putting out voltage.... thus the associotion with the alternator light.

    Even though I have answered your question about "...why the car won't shift out of park?" I suspect you really should be asking why the alternator is needs to be "nudged" a bit before it starts generating power.... but that is not the question you asked so I will withhold the answer to that one 8-)
  • sdnumde1sdnumde1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi my 1994 Golf 3 has a problem that the battery goes flat after about 4 days if the car is not driven.

    Its had a new battery and alternator and after a bit of work with an ammeter I discovered that with the car parked and everything switched off 32 mA is being drawn somewhere. I checked all the circuits which are protected by fuses and apart from the radio which was drawing about 1.5 mA there was nothing yet an ammeter connected betweeen the battery +ve and the small red wire (not the starter cable) shown this 32 mA current drain.

    Does anyone have any idea where to look for the component (s) causing this current leakage? Many thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you could keep the ammeter connected and pull the fuses one by one (remembering your radio codes I hope if you have one of those anti-theft radios)...if the ammeter drops after pulling one fuse, at least you know which circuit to look at.
  • sdnumde1sdnumde1 Member Posts: 2
    Further to a previous post about an electrical leakage problem on a Golf Mk 3 (1994) I have tracked down the cause of the power leakage to the central lockin g / alarm system.

    If I remove the fuse from the interior lights etc, the current drain almost stops (just leaves 10mA for the clock and the radio) but then the alarm and the central locking dont work anymore. Is there a way I can isolate the alarm system and leave the central locking operational as I suspect the alarm is causing the power drain. (If I open a door then the power usage doubles even with the interior lights off).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The answer is obviously "yes" ...Depending on how comfortable you are with electronics.

    You have done very well isolating the problem to a specific fuse. At this point you would need to have the schematic diagrams to determine what you can do next.

    Of course... it is possible to actually FIX the problem with the schematic diagrams and some basic electronic troubleshooting skills.

    I wonder if you can locate a connector for the wires feeding each door.... (Perhaps behind the plastic facia on the inside of each door.) You may be able to unplug each of these to isolate each door from the circuit. (Dont forget that the trunk and the hood may be part of the alarm circuit too)
  • cellardoorcellardoor Member Posts: 1
    I've had a similiar problem with my 2003 Golf. (The warranty just expired as well...) Suddenly, on mornings, cold mornings, it will not turn over or even crank. But, it will start up later in the afternoon, just fine. I took it to the dealership and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They kept it over night, said they ran diagnostics on it, and found no problem, they cleaned the battery and did something with the "LLs?". Charged me $125 for it. I got the car back and the following morning, no start. Same problem. Car refuses to start in the morning. This sounds like it's a common problem with this car apparently from this forum and others i have found. I'm making a list of possible causes and bringing it into the dealership. I feel let down by VW. I really love my car, but it's pretty useless to me if i can't rely on it to start in the mornings.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hmmm...possibly a bad starter relay...or, less likely, a battery that hasn't really been "load tested". Batteries, especially weak ones, will lose an enormous percentage of their power if they are exposed to zero or below temperatures, but can operate fairly normally once warmed up.

    You could try a jump start when your car doesn't start cold. If it kicks right off, there you go---battery.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with mr_shiftright - you should not blame the vehicle until the battery has been certified. I wonder when you last equilized your battery? (make sure all cells have same charge in them)

    Most auto-parts sellers will perfom a free battery load-test. The "Advance Auto" near me puts the battery into a special computerized unit which charges - checks - verifies and loadtests the battery. (A very exhaustive testing process that takes about 20 minutes)

    HINT: If it turns out that you need to replace your battery. I suggest that you opt for the battery which goes into the DIESEL Gulf. It will fit right into your Gulf and provide better starting power.
  • jmp1954jmp1954 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 vw golf. I have no power at all,I changed my alternator, checked my battery and fuses. What other thing's can I check to see why I have no power?
  • whitenovawhitenova Member Posts: 3
    I have a '94 Golf. The turning indicators work fine until I hit the brake pedal. When the brake is applied, the front and rear indicators stop flashing. When I take my foot off the brake, they start flashing again.

    But actually the above is only true during the daytime when the headlights are off. At night, when I indicate a left or right turn, the hazard lights come on but they flash very slowly. This is true even when I am not applying the brakes.

    Does anyone have any ideas?

    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Sounds like some bad grounds in the circuit.
  • nev3nev3 Member Posts: 1
    help i have a golf mark3 1996 model and when i turn my key in the door it turns but doesnt open the door it went on the passenger side first then the driver side went next. Has anyone had this problem or know how to solve this problem i would be very much grateful :blush:
  • ladysarabiladysarabi Member Posts: 2
    A few days ago, my power sunroof started opening and closing a couple of inches on its own while I was driving. My sunroof was in the off position. I got it to stop opening and closing by turing the knob to an on setting, and then back to off. That seems to have stopped the strangeness, but I still have no clue as to the cause. Any ideas?

    Also, yesterday, my stereo refused to turn on. It was working fine the day before, then I got into my car and start it the next day, and my radio is dead. The alarm light is blinking, so it just looks like the stereo doesn't realize the car is on. Could this be connected to the sunroof issue? Again, any ideas?

    My going theory is that rough roads have jiggled some connections loose. I live in Colorado, and we have some major side street issues at the moment. We have ice ruts 4-6 inches high and only a little pavement showing. It's been a very bumpy ride for the past 4 weeks. Is that plausible, or am I missing something more obvious? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. :confuse: I want to banish these bizzare electrical gremlins from my car!
  • smallstepssmallsteps Member Posts: 1
    Hi There,

    I am having the exact same problems. Have you had any luck with either issue?

    The car just stalls out whenever it wants. It seems to do it more when the car is warmed up. This is the fourth time it's been in the shop in 4 months. It's always one reason or another as to whey this happens.
    The oil light first came on when I was leaving the highway. I pulled over and checked all the oils and everything was fine. The light, at first, only came on when slowing down from high speeds, pick up the speed/rpms and it would go out. Now it just comes on whenever, but only seems to happen when the car is warmed up.

    The car is at VW right now. Let's see what they say today.
  • ladysarabiladysarabi Member Posts: 2
    (This is a follow-up to message #93) Well, I had to have my car towed to VW yesterday becuase it wouldn't start. Looks like I needed a new battery. I'm not too surprised by that as the old battery was the one from the factory and was 5 years old. Plus with the weeks of temperatures at or below 20 degrees, I see now that a dead battery was pretty inevitable.

    While they had my car, I had them check my stereo, and it was inoperable becuase of a blown fuse. The fuse was replaced, and the stereo works fine again, but they said I'll need to get a new stereo if the fuse blows again. A second blown fuse would indicate that it's the stereo itself that was shorting out.

    I asked about the sunroof strangeness (the opening and closing on its own), and they pretty much told me that it would be an extensive (also meaning expensive) diognostic to do becuase of all the visual wiring checks required and they would also have to try to re-create the issue. Since I got the sunroof to stop moving on its own, and it still responds to its controls, I opted to not have them look at it at this time. I figure I'll wait for it to get worse so it will be easier for someone to recreate the situation.

    Has anybody had this happen with their sunroof before? Will it get worse? What was the cause? Any information on this issue would still be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  • dorciadorcia Member Posts: 1
    Hey to everyone...
    First time here, so please forgive me if I am using it incorrectly.
    My problem just recently started:
    My "open door" indicator light goes on and off randomly if the door is shut or open. Mainly it is just plain annoying. I'll be driving, and it will decide to tell me my door is open...when it is not.
    If I hit the panel right next to my handle and lock, it sometimes goes off...
    Can I just cut the wire to it?
    Remove the fuse...?

    ANy help is appreciated... :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You should really consider having this FIXED because it may affect the alarm system.

    There are several microSwitches in each door on a circuitboard. Please check the following links which explain. ($3 fix)

    Door Switch link

    Another DoorSwitch link
  • lurch302lurch302 Member Posts: 1
    I will include a picture to help illustrate my problem, but let me ask it as simple as possible just in case it doesn't work. I would like to know on my 2000 Golf, on the SMALLER lamp, not the larger one more towards the side of the car, but the smaller one, is it REALLY necessary to remove the front bumper to replace the bulb? I can replace the larger daytime running lamp by just popping out the headlight assembly and detaching it from the wire">, but it seems i cant pull out the blown out bulb for the other lamp without removing the front bumper or the headlamp itself. All help is genuinely appreciated.
    image
  • briere48briere48 Member Posts: 1
    All these problems seem inter-related. I am experiencing the same problems with my '02 Golf 2.0L. Just before Christmas '06, my EPC light came on and my brake lights would not go out. I figured this was just a brake light switch problem (it ended up going away on its own). A few weeks after that, my sunroof opened on its own. A week after that, my radio would not come on. Just a few hours ago, my car wouldn't start (battery very weak evidentally). I wish I could offer up a solution, but the best I can do is relate my common story. There seems to be some "sneak" electrical paths in there some where (possibly a short in the system, but haven't checked my fuses yet). A sneak path seems more reasonable to me because of the other electrical problems and the battery dying.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    > .its the regulator...if you look under the hood there is a little black box next to the firewall. I bet the casing is cracked and when it gets wet it arcs causing a short.

    The location is correct, but the part you described is actually the coil/ignition control unit. You will need a special torx socket to remove the two bolts that secure the unit to the firewall....
  • stevemadstevemad Member Posts: 1
    My 96 golf 2 litre has an odd electrical problem when the weather is warm. While driving, the car will cut out completely for a second and then perform faultlessly - until its stopped and you try to restart it. It fires but then dies like you've lost the magnet in the ignition key. When the weather is cool the car doesn't have this problem which makes me think it's a sensor but which one?
    My technician says that the on-board computer tells him that the crank sensor has a problem but would that be affected by heat?

    At my wits end - any help would be appreciated.
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