Chevy Tracker

longscreeker · January 2006

I just had a problem that affected my rear windo defroster reverse lights and turn signals. If I turned on any of these devices all of them came on . I found chaffed wires that short circuited and fused together. the short was behind the gas tank near wear the fuel sender, fuel pump, wires connect to the harness. It sounds to me to be a short because the brakes aer turning on your hazard lights.

chandler3 · January 2006

I have a 2000 Tracker - automatic, and recently I've been having a problem with the button on the gear shift not depressing in order to shift it out of park. When stepping on the brake pedal, they're normally is a "click" indicating that the lock is releasing, allowing the gear shift to be moved out of park, but for the past few months, from time to time, there is no click, meaning the lock isn't being released, and I can't move out of park. I press and press on the brake pedal...turn the tracker off, and back on...one day it took 20 minutes for that lock to release so I could get on my way. I know that it can be done manually by removing a little cover on the console and sticking a finger in the hole to move the lock, but my finger isn't long enough to reach it. I understand this lock can be disabled, that it's mainly a safety thing so a small child can't move the gear shift, and we don't have small children, so I'm leaning towards getting that done. But what can be causing this? It's a PITA, not to mention embarrasing, to sit there for 15 - 20 minutes trying to shift the darn thing out of park!

mhall1 · January 2006

I've had the same problem with my 97. I found that if I jiggle the gearshift while hitting the brake it releases. There is a small removable cover on the side of the console that you can reach in and release it manually. I've had the console apart but never really was able to fix it. It's always be intermittent. My wife just told me we discovered a way to make it release every time but I can't think of it right now, it has become automatic I guess, I'll remember it and get back to you. Mike

cob · January 2006

I worked for the company that designed and built this shifter, you have a bad park lock solenoid. The cover on the side is the manual override. It is there to get the vehical out of park so it can be driven to the dealership to be repaired. They can replace the solenoid it is not something you can eliminate. It may even be covered under warrenty due to it being a safety part. You may be able to replace it yourself but it does require removal of the shifter assembly.

maheengun · January 2006

My 2000 tracker has developed stiff steering over the last month or so. When it first started happening it was only stiff when the car was cold but now it is stiff even after the car warms up and just today the steering has become so stiff that I have to crank the steering wheel with force to make turns. I have had some problems with the car wanting to stall at lights etc. when the engine is cold so I am wondering if it is a power problem. I use the four wheel drive almost all the time in the winter, could this have anything to do with it. Any advice???

poorcruzer · January 2006

First check your power steering reservoir. Is there enough fluid is it milky (contaminated with water), brown (burnt) or debris in fluid ( plastic or dirt)? If okay, check level. If level of fluid is okay check all hoses and lines for kinks, if fluid is gone, check system for leaks. If everything is okay so far then it's off to the garage to check the power steering pump for flow. 6.4/7.9 litres per minute or 1.7/2.1 GPM, Pressure Relief 6700/7500 KPA or 972/1088 PSI. I would probably suspect the pump but check the other items first as they are cheaper than a pump. Also if you go to the garage be specific about your symptoms, is your steering harder in only one direction or both. I was assuming both. Your stalling issues could be helped by previous postings. I hope I have helped.

woody72 · January 2006

My 01 had a somewhat similar steering problem which could prove to be quite dangerous if ignored. My symptoms were steering changed from stiff to normal in short intervals more noticeable at slow speeds. It turned out to be the intermediate steering shaft which has two small u joints integral with the shaft. One u joint was bad. The shaft is dealer only and about $300. Another person posted that his u joint on the steering shaft seized preventing him from moving his steering wheel, almost causing an accident. This may not be your problem, just a heads up to all others with similar symptoms.

popov · January 2006

I am having problems finding an engine block for my '89. My current block threw a rod through the side. Can I use a short block from another year? Can I use an engine from another year?
Thank you, Popov

inuvik · February 2006

The Suzuki G16K Motor 1.6L 8 valve TBI shows no changes in block design from 1989-1995. You should be able to use a short block from any of those years or a complete engine from a Sidekick or Tracker in that year range.

trackerer · February 2006

I can't engage 4wd on my 2000 Tracker 4-dr (2L 4-cyl). I had it checked out and they say the mechanical bits are working fine. GM says, "front axle actuator pump not getting power" and "PCM shorting out internally." Translation = $$$ which I don't have. Does this mean that the computer is not sending electricity to the switch that locks the front diff to the drive shaft? Can I fix this by wiring my own homemade switch to power the "front axle actuator?" Has anyone done this? Any advice? Thanks.

scotter · February 2006

I had the same issue on my 2002. My first suggestion is take it to a Suzuki dealer, as they are much better at finding the real problem, rather then the GM philosiphy of replace every part in the line, and that should fix it. I eneded up only needing an actuator pump.

If the PCM is really bad, it will need to be replaced. When you are in 4 wheel drive, the PCM recieves a signal from the pump, and the computer controls the entire drive train differently then if you are in 2 wheel drive.

The Suzuki dealer told me that a bad pump will many times appear as an internal short in the PCM, so they sggested replacing the pump and see what happens, and again that was all I needed.

woody72 · February 2006

Anyone know where the coolant drain plug for the block is on a '01 2.0L? Also, does anyone flush their power steering fluid and/or their clutch fluid on a routine basis? I'm approaching 90K miles, have flushed my brake fluid, considering the other two.

poorcruzer · February 2006

Looked in the G.M service manual and guess what, there is no engine block drain plug for coolant. If flushing the system, first remove the thermostat from the system. To do this, drain rad by removing drain cock on the bottom of the rad. If your 2.0l has A/C remove serpentine belt and the three bolts holding the A/C compressor to the engine and set the compressor aside. Then remove lower rad hose from thermostat housing and unbolt thermostat housing. Make a mark on both engine and thermostat housing to aid re installation locating. Remove thermostat from housing and reinstall housing, rad hose, A/C compressor, belt and drain cock. Add your flushing agent and I would get a bunch of big bottles of distilled water and fill rad. Once rad is full start engine and run with heater on hot and fan on high. Keep an eye on the thermostat housing as it may leak a bit as there is no rubber seal ring around the thermostat anymore. Let engine run for a while to circulate the coolant and mix it with the water you added. Stop engine, let cool and then drain rad. Repeat this procedure again and again and again until water drained is totally clear. Drain rad a final time and remove thermostat housing and reinstall a brand new thermostat with rubber gasket, making sure housing mating surfaces are free of debris or corrosion. Tighten bolts to 12ft/lbs. Add to rad, 50% of your cooling system capacity of antifreeze and top up system with distilled water. If you use distilled water from the very beggining you will not have to worry about trying to get the tap water out if you use a garden hose. Be sure to clean out your overflow coolant bottle as well and check for leaks.

As for flushing your power steering and clutch. Power steering not so much but clutch defiantly. Clutch requires two people. One to depress the clutch pedal the other to release the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder or clutch actuator cylinder, found on side of tranmisson. Be sure to tighten screw before person inside vehicle releases pedal. KEEP FLUID FULL in clutch reservoir.

You could flush the power steering by disconnecting the low pressure line emptying into the power steering reservoir and have it empty into a bucket. One person slowly turns the steering wheel with the engine running all the while the other person holds the low pressure line and adds power steering fluid to the reservoir to avoid air getting in the system. Could be quite the juggling act.

jaybird11 · February 2006

i have 02 tracker ihad asimilar problem it was in my wiring harness for trailer lights hope this helps

alexf442 · February 2006

Thanks for the information. I found the problem and corrected it! I noticed there was a problem with some of the lights not working so I checked the bulbs in all of the ones that were not working. All of the bulbs in the four running lights were burned out so I replaced them. The license plate lights were burned out so I replaced them too. The middle rear brake light (the third eye on the top of the rear door) was not working but the bulb was good. Also one of the license plate light was not working even though I had replaced it. So, I got out my trusty multi-meter, removed the paneling from the inside of the rear door and started tracing the circuits. I found that someone must have disconnected the connectors inside the rear door to replace the rear door or to replace something inside of the rear door and when they put it back together they did not make the correct wiring connections. The connectors are of the same type and reconnecting them wrongly can be easily done. And it was also obvious that the color code on the wires do not match when they are connected wrong. Anyway I found that the third eye was swapped with one of the license plate lights and that was why the third eye and the one license plate lights were not working. I swapped the connectors which resulted in color code matching then I tried the lights and the brakes. All of them including the license plate lights and the third eye worked correctly!!! And most importantly it corrected the problem I was having of when I pushed the brake pedal the lights in the Radio dimmed and the front and rear Hazard Lights came on.
Thanks for your response.

alexf442 · February 2006

As Chief Inspector Jacques Clouseau would say, The problem is Solved! Thanks to all of you for all your helpful replies I found the problem and corrected it! I noticed there was a problem with some of the lights not working so I checked the bulbs in all of the ones that were not working. All of the bulbs in the four running lights were burned out so I replaced them. The license plate lights were burned out so I replaced them too. The middle rear brake light (the third eye on the top of the rear door) was not working but the bulb was good. Also one of the license plate light was not working even though I had replaced it. So, I got out my trusty multi-meter, removed the paneling from the inside of the rear door and started tracing the circuits. I found that someone must have disconnected the connectors inside the rear door to replace the rear door or to replace something inside of the rear door and when they put it back together they did not make the correct wiring connections. The connectors are of the same type and reconnecting them wrongly can be easily done. And it was also obvious that the color code on the wires do not match when they are connected wrong. Anyway I found that the third eye was swapped with one of the license plate lights and that was why the third eye and the one license plate lights were not working. I swapped the connectors which resulted in color code matching then I tried the lights and the brakes. All of them including the license plate lights and the third eye worked correctly!!! And most importantly it corrected the problem I was having of when I pushed the brake pedal the lights in the Radio dimmed and the front and rear Hazard Lights came on.
Again, Thanks for all of your response.

ali11 · February 2006

i've got a noise coming from my timing chain area. my boyfriend-who is a mechanic-estimated the price parts and labor at about $1000. what he doesn't know is if it's just a stupid fix or something more major! we can't tell until we tear it apart! has anyone had a similar problem and if so what was the final solution?

cob · February 2006

If you look at the Suzuki Grand Vitara posts there was a problem with the timing chain tensioners from 1999-2002 approx. The fix is over $1000 at the dealer. Someone posted instructions and pictures of the problem and how to fix. I do not remember what post number it is.

arkainzeye · February 2006

how many miles does your 99 tracker have? i was wondering about your oil level/ oil change history. the timing chain from what i underfstand is a double steel timing chain. I wonder if noise is oil related. my 99 tracker has 80000 miles and has no engine noises at all. buti also use synthetic oil and religiously change the oil. From what i understand the timing chain is quote (maintance free)

chris

rscott1 · February 2006

Iam having problems with a automatic transmission value cable that needs to be changed, can I do it myself or do I need to take it to a dealer. Dealer told us it will take them 3 or 4 hrs. to do the job. Need some information on this please.

jaybird11 · February 2006

my tracker has 185000 kms on it and there is a flat spot when i accelerate could this be timing chain slack? any info would be greatly appreciated thanks

arkainzeye · February 2006

a flat spot can also be a lean/rich mixture. what condition is your air fuel? what about your sparkplugs? when was the last time you ran some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank? I really doubt that timing Chain is bad. unless you have ran your engine low on oil. you can also just go over the maintance for your engine. check pcv valve, and as i said air filter and so on.

chris http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/arkainzeye

twoskinsoneman · February 2006

Are you talking about the cable that goes from the Throttle valve to the top of the transmission? If so I have had a problem with this cable also. The throttle valve end piece of it broke off and I kept repairing it by soldering a piece of a bolt-shank onto the end of the cable. This has worked for a year and a half but now the cable has stopped retracting back into the tranny after it is pulled out by the throttle valve. The cable seems to be very difficult to change. I think if I drop the transmission cross-member down and let the tranny kind of sag a little it may be possible.

safiyya · March 2006

My 1994 tracker developed a problem with its temp gauge after I had engine replaced. I have had two thermostats put on, the fan has been replaced and the sensor. It registers hot when I am going up hills, then it comes back down to normal when descending. The car does not overheat although the gauge registers in red zone. After the sensor was changed, it now goes into red zone even with regular driving and doesn't go back to the normal range.

cos2482 · March 2006

http://brisray.com/v6gv/vchain.htm

stratosonic · March 2006

Hi, I just recently purchased a 2000 tracker with 1.6 5 spd and when i cruise at highway speeds like 60 and over the rpms are about 3000-3500 rpms in 5th gear. I was just wondering if this was normal for these as it feels like it wants to shift again. Thanks.

poorcruzer · March 2006

Sweet Jes*s what a thing to attempt. I am sure glad I bought the G.M service manual if I ever have to do that operation. He didn't mention in his site as to how many miles were on the rig before this noise took place. With the tensioners on the chain gone, what was stopping the chain from skipping teeth? If this happened, I wonder if the valves would begin to interfere with the pistons? Or would you have time to stop the motor before this took place? I hope Suzuki has beefed up the tracks before 2003.

cob · March 2006

I have a 2004 with the v6 and 4 speed auto. At 72 mph the tach reads 3000 rpms.

arkainzeye · March 2006

from what i read about some of these timing chain problems, they all seem to be on v-6 engines. am I right? is any of the inline 4's having these problems?

chris

inuvik · March 2006

That does seem like alot of RPM's for 60 in 5th. My 2001 with the 2.0 4spd auto turns approximately 2500 in overdrive at 60 MPH. But the axle ratio is listed as 5.12:1 (wow that's low gears) so depending on the overdrive reduction that could be about right.

cosmo · March 2006

My 2.0 5-speed cruises at 3,000 rpm in 5th at 65 mph. The 2.0 reaches max torque at 3,000 rpm, so the gearing gives it good drivability at 60-75 mph. The 1.6 reaches max torque at 4,000 rpm. I had the 1.6 in my '95 Sidekick, and I had to do a lot more downshifting on long hills because the engine would lug at 3,000 rpm. The 1.6 is at peak performance between 4,000 and 5,200 rpm. You'll find that you will need 4th gear to climb some hills at 70 mph. Don't worry: The engine is designed for it.

ruralalt · March 2006

I have a 2000 Chevy Tracker, 2.0L Engine. It has 96,000 miles on it. My check engine light came on the day before yesterday. I hooked up my Code Reader and got a P0400 code / EGR flow malfunction. I ohmed out the EGR valve and that checked good and all the vacumn lines are tight as well. The Tracker's been running alittle sluggish lately too (don't know if its related), no other symtoms though. Anybody have any ideas :sick: ??

inuvik · March 2006

I ran across this article that may be of some help.
link title
The culprit seems to be carbon buildup. I use seafoam every few months in the fuel and have never had a carbon problem. You might give that a try before you get into tearing the intake apart.

ruralalt · March 2006

Thanks for the VERY informative article! Much appreciated. Will run out tomorrow and pick up a can of Seafoam as well.

mhall1 · March 2006

I've had idle/stalling problems with my 97 Tracker. I've replaced the o2 sensor (the code came up) and cleaned the throttle body and now it has come back. There is a strange bad odor sometimes when starting. I think I'll clean the IAC next. What do you think? Thanks, Mike

stuckinmytruck · March 2006

how you doing, i have a tracker 99. and it has some timing chain noise. i9s there something that is common that goes out? (tensioner/guides ect....) i looked it up on motors and it says like 9 hours to repair. is that a good estimate or what.... i`m trying to do this the least intrusive... any help will be most appreciated...

inuvik · March 2006

Is the odor inside the vehicle or outside exhaust?

cob · March 2006

see post #1322.

bumpasstracker · March 2006

I too have a 2000 tracker with the 4 cylinder 2.0 overhead cam engine. The timing chain is broken and the tensioner seems to be missing from the picture. The dealer is having a hard time getting the tension and I can't get a good answer to what the part number is because of all the updates to it. Can anybody point me in the right direction?

twoskinsoneman · March 2006

Had to take my 2000 Tracker to the dealer yesterday. It's going to cost $500 just to change the transmission TV cable!!
What the hell! They claim that the throttle body has to be removed to get the cable changed...This sucks. Anyone had this cable changed before?

deserttrack · March 2006

When my tensioner went last summer at only 53K miles I ordered everthing thru Jet Chevrolet. Look up the parts first at https://www.1stchevyparts.com/catalog/oe_parts_catalog.html for the internet prices then call and talk to Steve Haase to order at 800.257.6655. Have your VIN ready when you call. He treated me right, even saved me money on one of the parts he didn't have in stock by sending me to the other dealership that did have it so I wouldn't pay shipping twice; to him then to me.
When you order the tensioner, don't forget the little spring steel gasket behind it. Also order the sealant for the front cover and oil pan. I used the Chevy stuff and it hasn't leaked yet since I put it back together. I ended up replacing the cam chain, sprockets and the guide, too.
Since mine is a 4x4, the oil pan is a pain in the butt, but I think pulling it is the only way to do the job right.
Good luck..

evidoni · March 2006

My 1997, 1.6L operates at about 3500rpm at 65. At first I was horrified but I think now that its probably an engineering tradeoff for torque in 4WD. My solution has been to change the oil very liberally and keep it slower than 72. It seems to have worked fine. I have 99K an no major problems, yet...

ilduce321 · March 2006

Here's my problem, and it's going on two weeks without being resolved. While driving on the highway, the engine of my 2000 Tracker 2.0 shut off. After a few failed attempts at restarting, I had to have it towed. The computer gave the code for the camshaft position sensor. I went to autozone and got the Wells sensor for $95 and my mechanic buddy did the replacement. We tried to start the car, but nothing happened. Any ideas?

razap · March 2006

I have a 2002 tracker with 47,000.00. The car wouldn't start one day and a chevy dealer told me the plugs were fouled. The dealer is telling me I need a valve seal replacement. I have owned it since 10,000.00 mile and it has not seen rough miles. Has anyone experienced this problem at this low mileage? What can one expect to pay for the repair? Thanks

poorcruzer · March 2006

1) 2.0L 4cyl or 2.5L V-6? I'm taking a guess at the 2.0L 4cyl.
2) What is your oil consumption? Excessive oil consumption not due to leaks by the service book is 1.9L ( 2qts) in 3,200 kms (2,000 miles).
3) What is your driving style? Do you tend to rev your engine high before shifting?

If your oil consumption is low and you don't rev the bejeezers out of your engine, I would be getting a second opinion as to the cause of you non start. Your mileage is very low for that kind of problem.

If it is your valve stern seals that need to be replaced it, the head needs to come off and the camshafts and valves removed, valve guides checked and possibly reamed. It is a huge job and very expensive.

IF and it is a big IF this job needs to be done, I would be looking for my local Suzuki dealer to perform the work or a very skilled local mechanic, before I would trust my local Chevy dealer. They don't have alot of experience with double overhead cam engines, except for the infamous Quad Four engine, which was on par with the Olds 350 Diesel engine. :shades:

razap · March 2006

Thanks for your help. To answer your questions: The vehicle is a 2.0 4cyl. I have not notice any unusal oil consumption and it is an automatic. I agree regarding other causes for the problem than valve seals. I am taking it for a second opinion. The Suzuki dealer is a good suggestion. Does the Tracker have the same engine as the Sidekick? Thanks again.

poorcruzer · March 2006

Your sparkplugs could have well been fouled, but with carbon build-up, not oil. Especially if you do a lot of short trips or your sparkplugs were replaced with ones that run too cool. If your oil consumption is low, it's not your valve stern seals. Insert your prayer of thanks here.

As for your last question, all Chevrolet Trackers are Suzuki Grand Vitaras' or Vitaras' in disguise depending on trim level. They are all built in the same CAMI auto plant in Ingersoll, Ontario, Canada. You can tell that they are a Japanese design as the rear door opens to the curb, instead of to the street, as with Jeeps. The entire powertrain is Suzuki and the electronics are Nippon Denso. You may even find some or all the parts for your truck are cheaper at a Suzuki dealership, as long as they not Chev specific such as the front grill or bow-tie trim. Shop around and compare your truck to the same Suzuki model and year when looking for parts. Good luck. :shades:

mtj67 · April 2006

lol i just discovered this thing. Anyway, I have a 2000 Tracker @D 4WD 4cyl. I just bought it in Aug. 05 with 76,000 mi. on it and its been great. Its funny though seeing some of the same problems I have, like the drivers side window jamming up, and the stupid ignition key thing. The service engine light just came on a few days ago, stayed on for like 2 days, then went out. Scan code said P0400...EGR Flow. Oh well, guess I outta get it fixed, huh.

joniliff · April 2006

I just got a '95 Tracker, 1.6L, 16 valve, 2DR, 4WD, hard-top, and have a few questions. Can anybody point me in the right directions?
1. Which book, for maintenance, wiring, etc.?
2. Radio is 'inop'...and displaying 'loc'...in the manual it says to enter the code. How do I obtain or reset the code...original owner went to heaven (I think).
3. Planning on towing behind 27' MH, 4 down, but concerned about the comments I've read on automatic hubs. Should I be? Should I replace the hubs with manual ones? Any other major concerns on towing 4 down? The manual is specific on settings for towing 4 down, but not too clear to me! Anyone have a specific 'check-list' for setting prior to towing? Is there anyway my automatic hubs can be set to 'unlocked' all the time, even though they are automatic? Considering the Roadmaster brackets (118-1) and Falcon II tow bar. Best Source?
4. Fan inop on A/C and heater...where is the fuse? Could be a bad fan motor, but I'd like to check the fuse, first.
5. 'Itty-Bitty' toggle switch on lower left of dash, driver's side. Aftermarket? Anybody have an idea of what it does, or supposed to do?
6. Possible to NOT aquire miles when towing?

Vehicle looks fair, minor dings, but sound. Engine runs nice and smooth, everything OK, except for my 'minor' concerns. Thanks for any input.

John

poorcruzer · April 2006

Hi: Man, what do you do, save all the questions for a year?
1) Helms manuals MAY still have a shop manual for your truck. If not, there is always Haynes, but try Helms first as they sell the original shop manuals.
2) A shot in the dark here. A chev dealer may be able to enter your vin number and retrieve your radios code, but you would probably find it cheaper and less hassle to replace the radio with an aftermarket one, that is better quality to boot, with a CD player.
3) I haven't got my manual handy but when you tow a 4WD with a part-time system you place the transfer case in the neutral position. This lets the entire drivetrain run free from the transmission. Your automatic hubs would not be engaged since the transfer case is not in 4WD and 6) since your odometer reads from the transmission, your mileage would not change. That is my read on towing but have never done it with a part-time 4WD. Your R.V dealer that supplies you your tow-bar would probably be able to answer your questions fully.
4) My quess. Your fuse block. Check your manual, it could also be a circuit breaker or relay. It probably is your fan motor, 11 years old.
5) Flip the switch and try to start the truck, if the truck doesn't start, you have your answer. Very handy thing to have a ignition or fuel shut off switch.
I hope I have helped.

Chevy Tracker

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