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Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?

124

Comments

  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I'm guessing here, but sounds like they may be putting on complete strut assemblies and not replacing just the strut insert (the shock absorber part).

    Depending on the vehicle, there are two ways to do a strut replacement. Both of these descriptions start with the strut assembly removed from the car. One requires that the coils be compressed and removed, the strut insert removed and a new one installed, then the springs and the top plate (?) put back on.

    The other way replaces the entire strut tower as an assembly, insert, springs, the whole thing as one unit.

    The first is more labor intensive, but the parts are cheaper (since only the strut insert is replaced). The seconds is faster, but the complete strut assembly is obviously more expensive than just the insert.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Start watching the paper for ad's in your area, this is a very common service repair, and many places can do it.

    Also call a couple different places, and ask them for a quote over the phone to replace 4 struts and align.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If they didn't put a run-out gauge on your rotors they are just GUESSING.

    It would be a shame to do all that work and have the same problem.

    Would they then take off all the old parts at their expense?
  • minjiminji Member Posts: 6
    Thanks everyone for your input, I really appreciate it!

    I went to an Indian auto repair shop where I usually go for repair and asked them if I absolutely need to replace all 4 struts. They did a quick check and tole me that there's a bad jaw bolt (is it the correct name?) around the left front tire that needs to be fixed and also need to replace the rear suspension (which I believe is the same thing of rear struts?). The quote I got from them is around $500 which I think is reasonable. What do you guys think?

    Thanks,
    Minji
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I still think that the vibration is being caused by warped rotors.
  • bekins2bekins2 Member Posts: 29
    I have a 2005 lacrosse cxs when new it drove like a caddy.It now has 42000 on it tho the rid is decent not the same.Is it time to change the struts,i was told factory are not the best and usally last 50,000 it that true?thanks for any help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Most struts in any car are degraded by 80,000 miles. This is usually rather gradual, and the owner may claim that the car still rides fine, which is true because he/she has noting to compare it to.

    I think 50K is a bit premature for serious degradation of the ride but of course this depends on what you carry, where you live and how you drive.

    If Bilstein makes struts for your lacrosse, I'd recommend them if you plan to keep the car a long time and want the very best.
  • sexistdealerssexistdealers Member Posts: 1
    Hey out there. So, I have a 2003 civic & recently gave it to the dealership for an oil change. Less than 2hrs later, they tell me that my struts are leaking & the repair is $1500 & ask me if I want it done! Obviously not, that's insane pricing! So I'm taking it to a muffler/brake type shop tomorrow to further investigate. I was hoping to get some info b4 hand since most mechanics change all info & jack up prices as soon as a GIRL walks in! So annoying!

    So...here are my questions. Never doing struts before I know nothing. What brands are best for quality but not super expensive? I want a good middle brand. I dont drive long drives & my car is at 81,000 on an '03 so that shows. I am aggressive as a driver though. Also if only one strut is leaking which doesnt get explained in Honda's assesment, can I change only one? Will I need to change strut mounts/boots if there is a leak? How many hours estimate should this take? what is an estimate on 1strut leak to fix? 2strut? just in case!

    My appt is tomorrow afternoon so Im sorry this is so late, just found your blog today while searching info. Any answers soon would be great!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If one is bad, undoubtedly the other one is either already bad or not far behind the first. You replace them in pairs, front or back. Fronts usually get the most wear.

    A strut is a really heavy duty shock, with a spring around it. You could replace the whole thing, but it is typical to have someone take the strut out of the car, take the spring off the old shock, mount it back on the new one, and put it back in the car. You must also get your vehicle aligned, as they are tearing the whole suspension apart. It is dangerous and hard to take the spring off the shock, and most shops will have a spring compressor that does that for them.

    Prices will vary based on the part of the country you are in and labor costs. You can just call a couple places and they'll give you a quote over the phone. You may even find shops advertising sales on this work.

    I haven't priced this in years, so my estimates might be way off. But I would expect to pay somewhere around 75-150 for each shock unit part, and another 100-150 in labor per shock. Add 50-100 for alignment. So I would estimate about 400-700 bucks. If you are replacing the whole strut (new shock and new spring), it would be substantially more. But again, my estimate may be way off to current prices.

    You could also call an autoparts chain (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc), and they'll give you the prices for the shocks. Some also have attached garages which can do the install as well.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I'd be wary of those muffler/brake type shops as they are known for overpricing. One name comes to mind if you don't have a local mechanic I'd consider taking it to Sears simply because they have an assortment of struts ranging from performance to economy and usually priced fair.

    As far as economy brands I'd consider Monroe and KYB and at 7 years and 81K miles I'd have both done along with the rear shocks and be done with it. Also, the strut doesn't have to leak to be worn. After changing the shocks and the struts along with an alignment I'm sure you would be impressed with the ride and handling of your car.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I agree with Kiawah and obyone. I would stay away from the muffler/brake shops. Look around/ask for a good independent shop if you can't do it yourself.

    I have used KYB's on my '92 Sentra and my wife's '94 Caravan. I replaced them myself, so only had to pay for the parts. I think $75 is around the price for a KYB shock - a bit more if you want the adjustable ones (that you probably don't need). The entire strut assembly (shock, spring, assembly) can also be bought for some vehicles for about 2.5X the cost of the shock itself. If you want to do the job yourself and you've never done a shock replacement on struts before and don't have the patience and the tools (spring compressor), the complete assembly is probably the way to go.

    For on-line prices of parts, try RockAuto.com (no, I don't work for them).

    Kiawa's estimate for labor and alignment is probably close.

    You might want to repost this over in the Repair and Maintenance forum where many of those who turn wrenches themselves hang out.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,382
    I recently priced out the job for an Acura TL. I believe the civic is the same, with struts up front and shocks in the rear (shocks are way cheaper to replace).

    Prices are all over the place (usually for the exact same units). $1500 is insane. Even the ridiculous prices I got were more like $900.

    KYB is good, and probably who made the OEM. Most common to find is Monroe, which should be fine for your needs.

    Right now, Sears has easily the best prices. They are offering free install on shocks, and 1/2 price on struts (this is for Monroe sensortracks).

    probably should be in the $500-$600 range, with alignment, for you car.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • garfieldthecatgarfieldthecat Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2015
    The problem is that you are pricing the job at a repair shop instead of a parts shop, simple as that. Buying the parts and doing it yourself with a repair manual is going to be WAY cheaper. If you are capable of doing the work (physically and tool-wise) that is what I would recommend. But you have to be very careful because when you release the tension on those components they can really mess you up.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If someone has to ask about what struts are, then that is NOT a job they should attempt. Anybody who has wrenched on cars might attempt it for the first time with care. On a number of vehicles you have to get the spring back in exactly the right orientation rotation or you'll have problems.

    Just shop around, you can find many shops to do it at reasonable prices.
  • larry760larry760 Member Posts: 2
    2002 Toyota Camry - only 26K miles - first 6k driven by older person and hardly used-- I'm now told that the way the new tires are "cupping" after a recent alignment shows "struts" leaking --- I am getting estimates of $800 to $900. I plan on keeping car at least 5 to 10 more years.

    Q1- Does this condition sound right?
    Q2- Should I stay away from the Monroe's sold at Sears because of a cheaper price?
    Q3 - Should I go with a "lifetime" replacement guarantee by a very reputable firm .... I forgot the brand.

    Thanks Larry760
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Since the car is 8 years old, I'd opt for the Monroe's. I've used them before and could find nothing wrong with them.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,382
    just brought my 2000 Acura TL in today for 4 new struts (151K on it, I think they gave their all).

    Deal kept getting better. SInce I got the quote (took a while to get the parts in), Monroe has a rebate too.

    So, 1/2 price (1 day sale) rate at Sears, and they have cheap install.

    ends up being $517 inc. tax and alignment. Then $80 back.

    cheap.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • larry760larry760 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response. I had the car checked some place else and they felt that I didn't need the struts right now so I am putting it off for a while.
    I did go to Sears to get a price on Struts for the CAMRY and even after rebates and discounts, it will still cost $918 for the "Monroe". I guess that car just seems to cost a little more than others .... another place was talking over $1,000. Thanks again ..... really appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the tires are actually cupping and you can see this, you probably do need struts.
  • smashpdxsmashpdx Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    I have a '95 Subaru Legacy LSi wagon, which I tend to push around a little bit. All things considered it handles quite well. I get good road feedback, not a particularly intolerable amount of body lean, and at 223K miles I haven't had much to complain about.

    Until recently, that is. Noticed some weirdness after I hit something nasty with the right front tire - whatever it was punched a really good-sized round hole through the sidewall. Apparently the right front strut is leaking badly. The left front is on its way to join the party. Not surprising at all given the age.

    I have two quotes, one from a shop that has a solid technical reputation for suspension and tire work, from Geos to racing vehicles, and one from a dealer I trust. For all 4 struts both quotes come in around $1350, including alignment. The specialty shop has suggested Gabriel struts. They are familiar with KYB but their experience is that their customers who get KYB and aren't into full-on sport driving come back complaining about a harsh ride. The dealer, of course, is offering OEM, with most of the cost stuffed into the parts rather than the labor.

    What would you do? OEM, Gabriel, or KYB? (GR2's in my case - no AGX available for my car). I like my ride, but I need my handling, and am not interested in turning my Subaru into a rolling waterbed, if you get my meaning.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Have never used Gabriel's. Have AGX's on our '92 SE-R, and even put regular KYB's on our '94 van. I like a firmer ride anyway. No complaints about the KYBs. I would go with the KYBs.
  • stumpy75stumpy75 Member Posts: 1
    In 2005, I had Sears replace the original shocks on my truck with Monroe SensaTrac shocks. After 70,000 miles, they are now worn out. According to the Monroe Warranty, Monroe says they will warrant any worn out shock, for any reason.

    http://www.monroe.com/support/warranty.asp

    However, Sears WILL NOT warrent them unless they are leaking or broken.

    In talking with Monroe, they now acknowledge that Sears will not warrant their shocks for wearout, and they are done trying to work with them. Monroe says to try and see if any other local shop will honor the warranty, and if not, then have them replaced, and Monroe would pick up the cost of the shocks after I return the shocks to Monroe. Monroe will pay for shipping them back.

    So, if you go to Sears to buy Monroe shocks, expect a problem if you think they are worn out, but are not broken or leaking. According to Monroe, this is the ONLY retailer that they have had this problem with.
  • khsmurthykhsmurthy Member Posts: 1
    I went for top oxygen sensor replacement. Mechanic told it will take 45 min. He told me you can come in the evening. I said it is ok. I will wait and take it and go. He sprayed penetrating oil, took it out and put the new one in 5 min. then he asked helper to test drive this, go for 20 min test drive. Helper was back in 2 min, Mechanic shouted why you are back so soon. The helper said, why do we need that long test drive for sensor replacement and we do not need a test drive also.
    Better to buy complete struct assembly from monoroe. Its $20 more than this, but should not take more than 15 min for honest mechanic. It some one take more then he is also like my oxygen sensor replacement mechanic.

    Even all the description does not take more than 20 min. If it is 1 or 4 there is not much paper work. It will not take an hour.
  • rossewagerossewage Member Posts: 1
    Back in l982, I took my '78 Dodge Aspen wagon to Midas to have new brake pads installed. they called me to say the brake hoses were rotted and by the time I got out of there, the bill was 325.00...expensive for l982 since that was about my week's salary at the time. needless to say, I have never gone back to Midas since then. I have found places like Meineke much more reasonable and without the Midas mentality of trying to upsell you on stuff you don't need.
  • alchipalchip Member Posts: 18
    Recently, I bought new struts and shocks for our 2006 Chevy Uplander with 167,500 miles from a local parts dealer. I was shocked at the price difference in buying the parts first, then bringing them to my local mechanic versus just going to the local tire shop. The whole job to replace both front struts and the rear shocks was about $ 850. The local tire shops wanted $ 1,375. The replaced parts were original and held up well, but I'm really looking forward to using my new Monroe SensaTracs. We're trying to make it to 250,000 miles. May need to replace the sway bar next.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    edited June 2012
    No kidding on the wide pricing difference. I went to shockwarehouse.com and found the complete replacement cost for replacing both front and rear to be around $240.00 for monroe sensatrac.

    http://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=223652&selec- - ted_year=2006

    If you have the rear air shocks, that would increase your cost by $70 to $310. Where did you buy those replacements anyway?

    And why would you need to replace the rear sway bar? Barring a catastrophic collision, the sway bar should last the life of the vehicle. Now the bushings may be another story.
  • alchipalchip Member Posts: 18
    The replacements were purchased at Advance Auto Parts, on-line. They had a May special (15% off) with a $ 50 off coupon later if I spend another $ 100. I believe the sway bar to be replaced next is in the front which retails for about $ 50. I've had 2 different shops tell me it's time for the sway bar to be done. I must admit, replacing these items is beyond my facilities. I just don't have the bay and tools so I have to trust that others are telling me the truth. So I go for the multi-opinion approach on whether something needs to be done. Thanks for the idea about the bushings. I'll look for that next.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I agree with obyone about the sway bar. It's just a thick metal bar that twists slightly when the vehicle leans, and really doesn't have a wear out mechanism, short of a total failure (breakage). The bushings are another matter, and it's fairly common for them to wear (that's what the sway bar twists inside of) and have to be replaced.
  • alchipalchip Member Posts: 18
    Thanks again for the advice. Again, as I mention, I really have not had the pleasure of lifting our vehicle up on a hoist and checking it out myself. What would be really neat is if Edmunds could have videos by make, model and year of vehicle, along with how to do things like replace bushings. I've checked out some You Tube videos on auto repair but they are almost all not applicable to my vehicle.
  • azfarazfar Member Posts: 8
    I have 2004 civic with 160 k's on it. my ride is very stiff i can feel every single peeble under my tire im thinking to soften my car up. i have got checked my cars tire and suspension and theres nuthing wrong with them except that they may be worn out. now my concern is shuld i jus replace the struts or shuld i got for whole suspensions? would i be able to get some smoothness just by replacing struts ? :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That depends on the quality of the struts you buy--what you want is a compliant strut, a "touring" grade, not a "sport" strut. Probably for your car KYB is a brand to shop. Bilsteins are oustanding, but very expensive.

    If the struts don't do it for you, you can install softer springs and even a smaller sway bar.
  • azfarazfar Member Posts: 8
    how are monroe sensa tracs for that purpose ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    yeah they'd be okay as a replacement for the factory shock, although I'm not so sure you'd get the same mileage out of them.
  • azfarazfar Member Posts: 8
    by mileage u mean gas mileage ? hows that going to affect gas mileage?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    no I mean length of service.
  • brickster2brickster2 Member Posts: 1
    Have any experience with aftermarket struts? I find them on ebay for a good price. Two brands that were identified were Ultima and Sensa. KYBs are oem but they're twice the price...
  • ycsria166ycsria166 Member Posts: 1
    You can get a spring commpresor at a local car part store (rent or buy) do the replacement your self & drive it real carefully to the alignment shop. Probably take ya a little longer then mowing the grass recruit a moonlighting grease monkey if ya not mechanicaly inclined.
  • rlee777rlee777 Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2014
    Shock replacement is relatively simple, but strut replacement can be challenging and not the best DIY project for a novice who is limited with tool selection (especially air tools), who lives in the rust belt or does not have a service manual. Struts have multiple parts that need to be in good condition for safety and lack of noise. Replace the wearable parts (e.g. strut mounts / bearings, spring seats, etc) or use the complete strut assembly package that many aftermarket vendors now offer. Something that has not been mentioned is to use a torque wrench for all suspension related bolts and nuts.

    Aftermarket options can be much less expensive -- here is my experience with a few popular models:

    KYB GR2 - well made struts and shocks, but valved to be firmer than OEM. Makes the ride bumpier/less plush. Good longevity. Satisfaction is high for a sportier ride, but low for those who like a more serene ride.

    Monroe Sensatracs -- firm (less so than KYB GR2) and fine for most applications. However in my experience and from other forums, durability seems to be a problem. Even though it comes with a lifetime warranty, the labor to replace the struts is costly, unless DIY.

    Gabriel Ultra -- very good dampening, plush ride. Great fit for those who like a softer strut/shock -- these work well in my Camry. Good handling is maintained, though softer than OEM in many cases. Excellent value.

  • carole48carole48 Member Posts: 1
    I have been told that 3 out of 4 of my strut/shocks are leaking on my Toyota Camry 2010 XLE, confirmed by a dealership. I have been quoted roughly $1300 for all 4 to be replaced. The car has 90,000 miles on it now. What are the best brand to buy to have them replaced? Which ones last the longest for the vehicle that I drive? Popping noises in the trunk have started going on, just after I bought new tires and had a alignment done, then in 5,000 miles when I had the tires rotated and balanced again I was told that the struts were leaking. I've read some of the blogs, but have never had to have any of the cars I have owned in the past struts/shocks replaced. I have read that they actually should last for the life of the car, and some say replace them every 80,000 miles.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,669
    Do you have an independent shop you trust? Struts can leak a little and still be ok. And popping noises are more often from worn suspension components and bushings, not worn shocks/struts. Is the handling OK? Do you notice any change from when you first got the car? After you drive over a bump does it continue to bob, or does it calm down quickly?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Twelve years later, this post still sticks with me. The gist is "the best shock to replace your original equipment shocks with is another set of original equipment shocks. Shock selection at the factory produces virtually a custom shock absorber tailored for the vehicle's characteristics. Aftermarket shocks are not tailored in this way, in fact they often sell the same shock for several different vehicles the shock maker deems as similar. Financially, it is simply not cost effective for an aftermarket maker to develop a shock for each model on the market."
  • give_a_hootgive_a_hoot Member Posts: 1
    2009 Hyundai Sonata 141K miles: Original Shocks: Front Shock Mount issues; with recommendation to replace. I do not question those recommendations. I intend to drive the car for another 100K or more.

    1st Question relates to the wisdom of just doing the fronts? What are the pro's/Con's of replacing all 4 - other than the cost of doing the work.

    2nd Question is that if the OEM parts lasted that long - is there any reasons not to stick with OEM parts? Can I expect similar or longer life with other parts (I've been reading some horror stories about cheap shocks... You never get what you don't pay for).

    Thanks in advance,
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited June 2016
    Second question - "Shock selection at the factory produces virtually a custom shock absorber tailored for the vehicle's characteristics."

    That's why I'd likely stick to the OEM shock instead of a "one size fits all" shock from a chain store. That quote is from this "classic" post from @idahodoug, a one-time suspension developer.

  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,669
    Yeah, unless you're going for a performance suspension go with OEM. I messed up my parent's car putting on a set of HD shocks. 
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited June 2016
    Yep, people often regret "heavy duty" struts and especially sway bar bushings. No "give" makes for a ride that can often feel like a pogo stick, especially over bumps.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Don't know about your all 4 vs 2 question, @give_a_hoot, but if two are bad, chances are the other two will due for replacement "soon".
  • FlaxenwaxenFlaxenwaxen Member Posts: 1
    2004 Honda Pilot rear shocks are leaking. Replacing them at Honda is $440. Tire store will put on Monroe for $269. Any thought as to the best approach? I love my Honda and am leaning toward the Honda shocks.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,669
    I wouldn't do either. Instead I'd find a good independent repair shop, and ask them about some high-quality replacements. Honda doesn't make their shocks, it's somebody like KYB. I'm no fan of Monroe, read too many problem stories. I'd also replace the front struts if I planned to keep it for several more years.

    But are the rear shocks causing any ride or handling issues? Does the rear of the car bounce up and down more than it should? Many shock leak a little oil while still working fine.
  • kefta4everkefta4ever Member Posts: 1
    Just bought 4 new struts for my 2008 Dodge Caliber, 90k. $250 total, Watched some videos on their replacement. I know a little about working on cars. Doesn't seem too difficult. TRQ Brand. All I know is its better than $700. Then still pay for a $60 alignment. It bounces like a bouncy house so cheap or not they have to be an improvement.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Make sure you have, or rent, the proper compression tool, (if you didn't buy the complete strut [non-permissible content removed]'y) and be careful with proper vehicle safety. Don't know much about TRQ but A1 Auto sells them, so they might be okay.
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