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I just purchased a 99 Montero Sport Limited. The battery was bad so I replaced it. When I connect the new battery, the alarm goes off and it won't start. I don't know if the vehicle has remote keyless entry as all I have is a single key for the door locks and ignition. How do I stop the alarm from sounding, and how do I start the vehicle?
Any help is appreciated.
I was wondering ??? i've seen the similar problem that other people are having. DO you or anyone have an idea about what is going on. I had tires and brakes replaced on my SUV , But still have the problem.... HELP
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Any ideas?
How difficult is it to replace a AC unit on this SUV?
Thanks
This happened 2 months ago and my battery exploded. I called AAA. They checked everything, told me the battery was bad and so was the alternator. They took me to NTB to get it fixed. NTB says only battery was bad and so it exploded, and they replaced it. They did not find anything wrong with alternator. They said they tested it, and it works fine.
No lights for a few months. Now the lights are coming back on. When I rev the engine to 6000RPM + the sensor lights go off, then if the RPMs go below 3000, the lights come back on. Sometimes the ilghts wont come on for a few weeks, but then back at it...
Its going to be winter and I dont want to be stranded with kids. NOW... I have the car at Firestone. Waiting for results...
Will keep posted. :sick:
Luckily they warranty their 'work' ($30) fee for 12 months from today incase this comes back.
Thats it for now
I know its tough to maintain a 10/12 yr old vehicle... but at the end of the day... it sure beats a $30,000 bill for a new 'problem free'
alternative.
Best regards and GOOD LUCK everyone ! :shades:
:shades:
I have a 2001 with 135,000+ miles on it.
But my Boy (as i call him) is still running like a champ i mean a CHAMP..
there is a on going minor problem with the front end....feels like he likes to jump around while driving..... other people said its alinement needs to be checked sum say has to do with the A frame..... I personally dont feel the problem .... but maybe i'm acustomed to it......
ArnieB
I have a 2001 with 135,000+ miles on it.
But my Boy (as i call him) is still running like a champ i mean a CHAMP..
ArnieB
one early morning approx am my alarm went off as to wake the whole block up
had to pull the fuse and i put it back in later that morning the horn started up again ..then it stopped.....a few hours later it happened again so i pulled the fuse,,,,,,
at one point when i turned the steering wheel it would go off........then on so for the last year and a half NO HORN...
:confuse:
Thought initially it was a tire problem, so we replaced the rotors with no improvement.
They we figured you can still hear the noise when the car is in park and you press on the gas.
The fix is to replace the front cam seal. The seal is only $6, but the timing belt needs to come off. If you are due for a timing belt (every 90k miles, IIRC), then change both front cam seals.
Other common leak areas are valve cover gaskets and the rear cam o-rings (at the back of the cylinder heads). However, the right front cam seal is the culprit for contamination of the alternator.
http://www.monterosportonline.com/
Terry A
The belt adjustment is easy, the idler pulley has a jack screw to move it. However, the center nut of the idler pulley must be loosened first, otherwise the pulley will not move.
I followed the instructions, which for me required accessing the antenna motor, opening it, and cleaning out the broken pieces of the plastic re-tractor. After putting it all back together, minus the replacement mast, the motor ran fine. I turned off the radio and fed the re-tractor on the replacement antenna mast into the antenna base. It caught the re-tractor and pulled it in just fine, until the the base of new mast hit the antenna base. At the base of the new mast there's a black plastic piece about 1/16" high, and that's stopping the new mast from retracting all the way down. I tried pushing it down, but it isn't budging.
I compared the new mast to the old mast and both have the same size black plastic piece in the same place. I called the tech hotline for the company that sold the after-market mast. He tried telling me the problem was the metal sleeve until I explained what was happening. Then he said he'd send me a brand new part, exactly the same, and that he didn't know why it wouldn't go down.
How do I get the mast into the base?
I lost the only key to the car while in a small mountain town. I had a duplicate of the original but it doesn't work because its not programmed and not original Mitsubishi. I bought a new original key from the Mitsubishi dealership in Lima and used the old key to duplicate the teeth.
Then I had some non-Mitsubishi technicians try to program the key for me but they couldn't get it to work. I think that may have been a big mistake because they didn't have the right software to work on my car...
I ended up getting Mitsubishi technicians from the nearest city to come afterward and try and program the key, but they couldn't program the key either. Their programming software comes up with an immobilizer error.
So I think that the car may have immobilized itself because the first technicians messed around with the system with the wrong programming software. The Mitsubishi technicians told me that the car needs a new immobilizer but at this point I am not sure if they know what they are doing.
Does anyone know if the car needs a new immobilizer in this situation, or is there another solution?