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Comments
Cheers,
Boltgunner
You can do a search with "stall" and ... "idle" to find similar reports at this site.
I have concluded that it has something to do with one of the smog devices. Perhaps the idler control valve or some other smog device.
The fuel supply is good. But, something changes the mixture while idling, so that the mixture is too lean. And the car shakes and then stalls. In other words, a vacuum leak is temporarily open letting in too much air. The fuel supply remains constant and normal. Obviously it is not a fuel pump problem.
It is totally intermittent, and sometimes is triggered by a change in weather conditions.
You can confirm this by spraying a bit of carburetor cleaner into the air cleaner when it is just barely idling.
The RPM will speed up. The added spray brings the fuel mixture more into balance, to balance out the vacuum leak.
You can also use the same method to check for a conventional vacuum leak down below the carbueretor around the numerous hoses. If the engine RPM speeds up a bit, it is a vacuum leak. But the problem is not down there for me and probably you too.
Whatever you do ..... DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FIX THIS BY MESSING WITH YOUR IDLE ADJUSTMENT. YOU WILL SIMPLY MAKE IT WORSE AND BE TOTALLY SCREWED !
Mrbill
might try cleaning the IAC valve:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa042603a_08.htm
BUT...no reason you can't go to an independent shop that specializes in Japanese cars and have them do the brakes and clutch. You'll probably save 20% off the entire bill.
Sure, you DO get to look at the old parts...ask for them...
As for the "quote" on the brakes, that depends on what they are doing...is it just pads, pads and rotors, just front, front and back (I think you have brake drums on the back). So $400 could be a great deal or very expensive depending on what you are getting.
Clutch should cost $450--$700 depending.
$400.00 seems very resonable.I think where you are located in the U.S.A plays a major role on what a mechanic might try to charge you.IMO.
I do not recall the details of the info I collected, but the faulty coil was causing the fuel pump to shut off.
My repair manual says:
"At the inboard or transaxle end, pry the CV-joint out about 1/2". Prying the axle out causes an internal snapring to come out of its locking groove. Pry carefully to avoid damaging the oil seal. Carefully pull the inboard side of the driveshaft out of the differential case."
If you stick a large screwdriver up into the gap and pry, make sure you pry so the tip of the screwdriver points towards the axle and not the differential where the seal is.
I can take a pic of an old axle end if that would help.
Mrbill
THANKS,
OMAR LIRA
1) ignition switch (make sure ECU is getting power)
2) Fuel injection main relay (that powers up the pump and ECU)
3) pump itself. Old pumps die.
A faulty head gasket or cracked head could do that as well, but it would more likely be pulling in coolant than oil, and overheating.
Thanks, (Only upto $800.00 for a 29 MPG Car!!!)
Do you guys think the fuel lines are clogged with the "sludge" from the bottom of the tank, form my stupidity in letting it run on E?
Also, what should I do to get it started, and where are the fuel filters located on this car?
Thanks
Since I replaced the fuel pump 3 times, I know from experience that you can remove the filter and with a flashlight see the bottom of the tank where the fuel pump sits. This will confirm if you have dirt / sludge in your tank. The fuel pump is accessed via a circular plate behind the back seat on the driver's side of the car. Very easy to check this.
Brett
I use 5 30W Syntetic Mobil One Extended, and the LX-i even runs smoother then before and I hardly burn any oil.Maybe almost a quart every 10,000 miles or so.
When I bought my used car I had to get the lights fixed,wiring harness,had the timing belt replaced as a precaution,along with the other drive belts,had a new muffler installed, and a new radiator installed all for about $1,200.00.
The car just keeps going,and going like that ever-ready bunny commercial.
Mrbill
I wish I could tell you where they split off the wiring to feed both headlights.
My suggestions would be to check for a broken wire where they flex when the headlights go up-down. Also, if you see any signs of a previous front end repair from an accident, if you spot any damage to a harness, look closely for a cut wire. I've found wires that had breaks internally, but appear OK from the outside. If there is an internal break, a light tug on the wire will actually stretch the insulation at the break point.
Hopefully someone can give more information on the routing of the wires.
Mrbill
The switch is most likely a "combination switch" which means the whole assembly would need replacing. It also requires removal of the steering wheel.
Mrbill
If you don't have a relay for each light (and one of the relays bad), you could have a common relay with two sets of points in it, one set of which is bad.
You need to get some good detail info before you start throwing parts at this.