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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    I'm thinking of checking my local junkyard for a TCM for my 93' Honda. What year Hondas are compatible with my 93 to replace the TCM?
    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think 92 and 93 are pretty much the same. The 91 model had the "sport shift" so it may be different. Try to match the numbers on the computer, if you can.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hey Elroy,

    When replacing the TCM, do I need to disconnect the neg battery terminal?
    Any other specs I need to look into? I don't want a mechanic to over charge me just to replace this if I can do it myself.

    Let me know
    Thanks
    Cybercool
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I would take the negative cable off. Do you have a stock radio? And do you have the code for it? If you don't have the code, and disconnect the battery, your radio will not work. The plugs for the wires going into the TCM are in there pretty tight, so you will have to use some force to get them off. If there is a locking tab on the connectors, make sure you release them when pulling the plugs out. Never pull them by the wires. Grab the plug. It will be easier to get the plugs off, if you unbolt the TCM from the floor first. Bring the old TCM with you, when you go looking for a used/new one, so you will be able to compare the plug sockets. That's all I can think of, right now. Good luck

    PS: open the TCU, and check it out, before you just assume it's bad. ;)
  • eilroseilros Member Posts: 35
    My wife and I are looking for an older Accord and we drove a 1992 EX today. It's an auto with 179K. It has the standard rust around the rear wheel wells but the paint is decent and the interior looks brand new. They are asking $2000.

    The seller had every single maintenance receipt dating back to 1998 and it's been well maintained. Looking through the records, there are four areas of concern:

    1) Right front coil spring is cracked
    2) Oil pan gasket leak
    3) Transmission line leak
    4) Rear seal leak

    The owner stated that there are just a few drops of oil on the ground and they don't have to add any oil between oil changes (3K miles).

    Are the leaks anything to be very concerned about? Since it's Sunday and I can't contact my mechanic, does anyone have an estimate of what it would cost to fix each of the issues?

    Thanks,
    Dave
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    A car that old will likely have some issues. The oil leaks could cost you a good bit to fix. The rear seal is the most difficult, because you would have to remove the transmission to change it. It that's not leaking a lot, I would leave it alone. The other leaks should be easy enough to fix. If the engine and transmission don't have any major issues, it sounds like a good deal. You may want to check down the spark plug tubes for oil (could be another potential repair). Have you test driven the car? Do any warning lights come on? Overall, it sounds like a good deal. You can't expect much for $2000.
  • nidgenidge Member Posts: 18
    I have the same problem. In fact Because of all the oil on the plug wells, I can't seem to be able to draw the plugs out because the oil lines the inside of the spark plug socket and it slips off. How did you remove the oil in the plug holes? Also, did you only install new o-rings or how did you seal them. The new gasket kit that I got had 4 o-rings, the cover gasket itself and 4 other type of round gaskets that I don't know what to do with. Any info could be a great help to me. I'm really not sure how to seal the plugs from the oil leaking in. Thank you
  • eilroseilros Member Posts: 35
    elroy5, We did drive it today and it ran well and shifted smoothly. The only warning light that came on was for the brake lamp I believe. However, all of the lights worked fine.

    I would assume we'd want to get the cracked front coil spring replaced first due to the safety aspect.

    I can deal with a little bit of an oil leak for now. We just plan to drive it until April or May until we buy a minivan. I'm hoping to find something that we'll be able to drive until then and sell for close to what we paid.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The brake light is probably no big deal, as long as the brakes are working properly, and not pulling to one side. Often, the light is just because the fluid is low, or the rubber on the master cylinder cap is sagging. The car should be just fine for your needs. You may actually like the car more, after driving it for a while, and not want to get rid of it. If you plan on changing the spring yourself, you will need a spring compressing tool to remove it from the strut.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Unless you have a small hose taped to a shop vac or vacume pump, it will be difficult to get the oil out. You can just unscrew the plug, and let the oil go into the cylinder. It may smoke a bit at startup, but the oil should burn up pretty quickly, and not hurt anything. The o-rings go under the rocker arm assembly, and the larger doughnuts go on the valve cover. You may need a needle nose pliers to get the plugs out, if your socket will not hold. Here is a link that describes in detail what you are dealing with. Good luck http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/oilyplugs/index.html

    PS: Be careful tightening the little nuts on the valve cover (they are only supposed to be torqed to 7 ft.lbs. If you try to tighten them too much, the little studs will snap off, and you have more parts to order, and replace.
  • hondaowner72hondaowner72 Member Posts: 1
    My 94 Honda Accord LX will not go into park or reverse. It was alway hard to move the shift knob, but now even with both hands it won't go into park and it kinda slides from reverse to park, it's like it won't lock into the gear. It will go into all the drive gears and netural. Right how I have it in netural with the parking brake on. I tried the shift lock, but that did nothing. Please help I need my car
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hey elroy,
    I reset the TCU under the hood from the 7.5 fuse and it solved my problem for who knows how long, but it worked without spending $$$ on another TCU. The mechanic I went to had no idea what he was looking at and told me it's a tranny job, so I said see ya!!!!.

    Elroy I know I may have to replace the TCU sooner or later and was wondering if replacing the ECU and TCU at the same time will resolve both problems of the low shifting and the engine light going on periodically? Or will a complete tune-up be the answer here where they'll replace the plugs, wires, oxygen sensor, belts,etc. I'm looking to spend as little $$$$ as possible

    Please reply back
    Thanks
    cybercool
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the check engine light is on, you need to get the trouble codes. The problem most likely has nothing to do with the ECU. Here's a link on how to get the codes. Get the code/codes, and come back with the numbers. Good luck
    http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm

    The TCU problem could come back. Just be sure to check the computer out, before just assuming it's the problem. They will not let you return a TCU after you purchase one.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    hey Elroy

    I got the code some time ago which is, #43 = fuel supply system. A friend told me it's definitely the oxygen sensor and I'm leaning toward replacing that. I'm 2years with my 93' Accord EX without any tune-up and I think it's due. What you think?

    cybercool
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    "fuel supply system" includes a lot of parts :surprise: . Trying to guess the right part, can become very expensive, especially if you keep guessing the wrong part. :sick: If you don't want to pay someone else to diagnose your problem, I suggest you get a good repair manual. Helm (factory manual) is the best, but you can get very useful information from Haynes or Chiltons manuals, which are under $20 at auto parts stores. Of course, doing troubleshooting sometimes requires special tools, and some mechanical knowledge. Paying a mechanic can be tough, but diagnosing, and fixing your own car, can also be a challenge, and costly when first starting out. Happy Hondaing :D
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    For a fee you can get troubleshooting and repair info at Honda Service Express. Owners manuals are available free of charge.
    https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
    Regards,
    Corkscrew
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    This site also has great troubleshooting information for 4th gen Accords.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
    But, like I said before, you need to have some mechanical knowledge, and some testing equipment (in most cases).
  • rajkmr02rajkmr02 Member Posts: 8
    I am using a Honda Accord SV4 Vtec year 1995..the problem is ,,when i off the engine,,after some time,the is a boiling noise fr my hood,i realise its th water boiling from the radiator spare thank..and at the dsahboard,my check engine oil,battery and ABS lights are lighted up,its like blinking..
    this is while i am myself in the car,,but when i off the engine,,get out,lock the car via alarm,,,as the boiling noise starts,my alarm goes off...and i cant even unlck the car,using the alarm remote control at my car key..after some time, the alarm stops,,the boiling noise stops and everything is normal..
    The next day,,i see that the water level at the spare plactic tank is reduced a bit,,and thats all,,
    i went to a mechanic..he got my radiator changed,,the thermostat changed ,,the temperature switch replaced etc...but,,still i am experiencing the same problem,,
    What am i to do,,...??
    I am going nuts,,,
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sounds like you have a blown head gasket (exhaust gases getting into the coolant).
  • rajkmr02rajkmr02 Member Posts: 8
    does thismake the lights on my dashboard on,,??
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think a blown head gasket could light up the Check engine light, and the oil light, but not the battery or ABS lights. The battery and ABS lights sound like a wiring or computer problem. Are you sure this "alarm" is wired properly. Seems to me, many cars with electrical problems, also have screwy alarms. Coincidence? I think not.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi again
    I know I need a wheel alignment because my car pulls to one side pretty bad. After getting an oil change my mechanic tells me rack & pinion work needs to be done. My question, can I still get a wheel alignment after buying new tires without the rack & pinion work done? Who can I trust besides God?

    I feel my mechanic is pulling my chain.

    Jim
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Sure, but IF you then have to go and replace the rack and pinion steering....you would need to get your alignment done again.

    To be most cost efficient, you should fix all the parts that need to get fixed, and then align the vehicle.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Who can I trust besides God?

    NO one ;) . That's why, when it concerns yours, or your cars health (and a big bill), get a second opinion.
  • eilroseilros Member Posts: 35
    We bought the 92 Accord EX for $1250 on 10/22. So far I haven't seen a single drop of fluid on the cardboard I placed under the engine!!!

    There is quite a bit of rust around the rear wheel well and into the quarter panel. The bumper cover retaining screws have rusted out so the bumper cover is a little loose near the wheel. Does anybody have a quick, easy and cheap repair for that issue? I'm thinking of just using Automotive Goop or QuikSteel to keep the bumper cover from moving.
  • jtricker11jtricker11 Member Posts: 2
    I have a older model (1990) accord LX. Someone told me I have a bad ignition switch cintrol arm. The only way to keep the car running is too hold the key between the start and on postion. Is this easily fixed?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Read this link, and see if you think it's doable. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html
  • deuceswilddeuceswild Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 93 honda accord, I'm trying to replace the power steering gearbox and rack and pinion unit. I've disconnected all necessary items and tubing lines and disconnected steering input shaft from the steering wheel shaft knuckle. Everthing is loose or remove but can't get the unit out. It won't drop down far enough to get the input shaft (shaft in gear box) to clear the hole in the floorboard, there are some braces that are welded on that keeping it from dropping down. i think these braces protect the tie rod ends.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    1. Drain the power steering fluid. See: Power Steering Fluid\Service and Repair
    2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in the proper locations.
    3. Remove the front wheels.
    4. Remove the steering joint cover.
    5. Remove the steering joint bolts, and move the joint toward the column.

    6. NOTE: Lock the steering shaft with ignition key to keep the steering shaft in position.
    7. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and remove the nut.
    8. Install the 12 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the 12 mm hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover.

    NOTE: Remove the ball joint using the Ball Joint Remover, 28 mm (07MAC-SL00200l or equivalent.

    9. Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle using the special tool.
    10. Remove the gearbox shield.
    11. Using solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off the valve body unit, its lines, and that end of the gearbox, blow them dry with compressed air.
    12. Using flare nut wrenches, disconnect the four lines from the control unit.

    A: From pump: 14 mm wrench
    B: To oil cooler: 12 mm wrench
    C: To reservoir: 17 mm wrench
    D: To power steering speed sensor: 12 mm wrench

    13. Disconnect the 4P connector from the heated oxygen sensor. (EX, SE only)
    14. Remove the exhaust pipe A bracket nuts.
    15. Remove the self-locking nuts that connect the exhaust pipe A to the three way catalytic converter, and the exhaust pipe A to the exhaust manifold.

    16. Remove the exhaust pipe A.

    CAUTION: Replace the exhaust gasket and self-locking nuts when you reinstall the pipe.
    17. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolts and holder.
    18. Remove the left tie-rod end, then slide the tie rod all the way to the right side.

    19. Slide the gearbox right so that the left tie rod clears the bottom of the rear beam, then remove the gearbox assembly.

    CAUTION: Be careful not to bend or damage the four power steering lines when removing the gearbox assembly.
  • niqua78niqua78 Member Posts: 1
    i had my transmission fluid changed in my car and the car was driving just fine but when i stopped at a stop sign and then tried to go the car wouldnt move but when i shut the car off and restarted it, it drove just fine can u tell me what the problem could be... :(
  • rudisch82rudisch82 Member Posts: 1
    I have 1990 Accord with 222k miles on it. I had heard that Honda recommends replacing the timing chain every 90k miles. The previous owner had this done at 90k, I was just wondering if this is necessary maintenance, as it's a bit costly.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    :blush: To be a bit nit-picky, you have a timing belt. Newer cars come with timing chains that don't require replacement.

    To answer your question, though, If your belt hasn't been replaced in 132k miles, you are operating on borrowed time. If you intend to keep this car for any length of time, investing in a timing belt would be money well-spent. Otherwise, when the belt snaps, you'll likely be looking at thousands in repairs, effectively "totaling" your car. It is very necessary replacement.

    When you have this replaced, have the water pump replaced as well, since to get to it you have to do the same labor required of the timing belt (which is a few hours total), so it is simply cost-effective to have this done too. My mechanic who recently replaced my timing belt quoted me $400 for just the timing belt, and told me he'd do the water pump for just the cost of the part, since there was really no extra labor involved if done at the same time. My total for the two was $478+tax, and I'm in central Alabama. Dealers will quote over $700 most likely, but you should be able to get this done for less than $550 or so.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Is your D4 light (on the dash cluster) blinking, or on when the car is in Park? That would point to a transmission computer problem.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    Has anyone here have their ABS system checked and/or repaired on a 93 Accord EX? My ABS light goes on instantly now when car is turned on. A few months ago, it'll turn on about 5 min into driving. I'm thinking a brake job may solve it or it can be more complex. I dont want to spend too much, especially with our economy now.

    please give your input
    thanks
    Jim
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    hi all,

    I'd like your input on this. I paid $2500 for my 93 Accord EX 2 years ago. It was in very good condition. Within the 2 years I replaced the the radiator, fuel pump, steering pressure hose ($750 value). Now the ABS light goes on and check engine light. I know it needs a brake but dont want to spend any more $$$ on my car. THe left power window gets a little stick when going down. I'm thinking of asking for $2200, is this a fair price to a potential buyer? Thanks for your help

    Jim
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When a car has problems (ABS & Check Engine lights on, sticking windows) it will not fetch a good price. Doing a basic "brake job" will not clear the ABS or Check Engine lights. You have to keep up the maintenance, and fix problems as they appear, or things start to pile up on you. Sounds like quite a predicament. :( Good luck.
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    i have a purring 90 Accord LX auto with 178,000+....it has recently (only at start-up) coughed a huge cloud of blue smoke. It goes away in about 2-blocks and returns to normal as it reaches operating temp...i know that when rings begin to wear this is common, but usually it is prolonged and evident particularly at deceleration and acceleration, and after a stop sign, but not the case here (i have followed while my daughter drives). My question is, why don't i see blue smoke all the time if this is a bad ring(s)? Thank you
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My guess is the valve seals are slowly leaking into the combustion chamber, while the engine sits. The longer the engine sits, the more oil accumulates. When the engine is first started this oil is all burned quickly. After the engine has burned off the initial oil, the leak is not enough to be apparent.
    If for example the engine had not run for an extended period, the seals could have dried out, causing the leaks. Sounds good to me, anyway. ;)
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    thank you elroy5, you don't by any chance have a link to a repair pictorial on this procedure?...take care---thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Hahahaha,.....no. I've never changed a valve seal myself, but I'm sure a good service manual would give all the gory details. Do an internet search, you might get lucky.
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    ....ok, thanks 4 your info bro!.....chaz
  • 49ermike9849ermike98 Member Posts: 1
    My brake lights remain continuously on, and found out that little plastic stopper by the brake switch needed to be replaced. I bought the part, but for the life of me I can't get it installed. I know the flat button side goes facing the switch, but I can't get it to fit between the switch and the hole it goes into to push it in? Am I doing something wrong?
  • grambogrambo Member Posts: 1
    In case you are still having issues, our 90 Accord LX had the same issues. I replaced the Speed Sensor and solved the problems.
    Good Luck
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi Honda people
    My odometer gauge hasn't worked since I bought a used 93 Accord EX two years ago. It stopped at 137,000. The CEL goes on periodically, but runs well and there is no major leaks. I know it needs a tune up and regular maintenance but how long can my engine last with a bad odometer gauge? I've been told the older Accords are reliable cars. Thanks for your input.

    Cybercool
  • punky1punky1 Member Posts: 1
    My son inlaw has a problem with the driver side door latch not opening,the electronics seem to work from passenger door. But drivers door will not do anything.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    After buying a new radiator a year ago, I had the hoses, thermistat and antifreeze replaced as well. I don't see the green fluid to level like before and there is no leak. Is this normal? Should the level be at the height of the cap at all times? My Accord EX doesn't over-heat. Thanks for your input.
    Cybercool
  • mike1890mike1890 Member Posts: 2
    Hey folks, I just bought a 93 accord. 207K . no body rust, great little car, or so I thought. the day after a got it the engine wouldn't start, it would turn over but no spark.
    I had the plugs and disp cap replaced, she started and ran smooth on the way home from the garage. later that night I had to fight to get it started, she was idling at what seemed like 0 - 200 rpm and the engine was bucking. after 10 mins it was purring again. So the next day theres no spark and she won't start.
    would anyone know what parts could be causing this problem?
    I really hope its not the timing belt!!
    Mike
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    ....could be several things, start with the fuel and air filter replacement followed by a water displacement (gas line anti-frz) and good injector cleaner, like Techron.....if that doesn't help the starting, have the timing checked
  • mike1890mike1890 Member Posts: 2
    awesome, I'll try that out and see if it works.
    Thanks jazzchaz
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The coolant (50/50 mix) should be at the top of the radiator. It should also be between the min and max lines on the reserve tank.
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