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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I've seen many complaints of the fuel pump relay failing on late 80's early 90's Accords.

    My 88 isn't fuel injected so I'm not sure the exact location of the relay, I think it may be located under the dash, drivers side.

    Mrbill
  • donswartzdonswartz Member Posts: 28
    I have a 1991 honda accord. The car would not start during the summer one year. I would work all day and go out to my car and it would not turn over. I would try to jump the car and nothing. I read somewhere that the master relay, found under the dash on the driver's side on the left side of the car, goes bad and won't start during hot days. I replaced it and haven't had a problem since. I think I paid about $60 for the part. I hope this helps.

    If anyone has any suggestions about my selt belt alarm I would love to know how to fix it. Read my previous message about 4 up. Thanks for anyones help.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    did you see my post after yours re: the seatbelt alarm?
  • donswartzdonswartz Member Posts: 28
    Yes thanks for the post. It is a little more complicated than I can understand. I don't know anything about jumping circuits and all. I will replace a part if I need to I was just not following what you were saying. I appreciate the time you took to look into the situation. Thanks.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    there is a switch in the run of the seatbelt latch. either the switch opens (to inhibit the flow of current in the ckt) when the latch starts to move to the back of the window, or the switch closes (to allow the current to flow in the ckt). The ckt (short-hand for circuit) is the one which the belt monitor checks to make sure you have your belts on.

    i'm thinking the problem may be in the switch in the run, and not in the seat.

    pass the information to someone a bit more familiar with vehicle wiring. maybe they can help. good luck.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    see post #151. Dollars to donuts its the main relay. Under dash along firewall above clutch area.
  • iwantmoneyiwantmoney Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1990 Honda accord lx with problems. The car revs up to 2700rpm then drops to 900 over and over. This makes the car overheat on my drive to school (about 8 blocks). I need to fix it fast and cheap, please help. The car starts without incident. I think the problem begins when the car gets warm and it doesnt stop. The engine revs and drops while driving, in park and in neutral. Any help would be great.
  • swoopineagleswoopineagle Member Posts: 3
    There is an access panel in the trunk to get to the fuel pump :) . I disconnected the electric connection. There are three wires. a red, a black, and a yellow. with a volt meter. I put my black probe on the black wire and the red probe on the red wire. I got about 24 VAC with the ignition in the on position. Then I moved the red probe to the yellow wire and I am getting about 13 VAC. since I am getting current at the connection, then is my main fuel relay good? Also is the voltage reading correct. Also I am not hearing the pump come on. :sick: Does anyone have any suggestions on this. and where can I get a cheap fuel pump that works? again Thank You for any Help.
  • nhra62nhra62 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 1990 accord and when I am driving at about 70mph on freeway tach is about 3000rpm and will go up to about 4000rpm by itself but car stays the same speed. where is the tach connected? Why would this happen.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Can you tell if the engine is changing RPMS at all (listen for engine-racing) or is it just an instrumentation problem? I don't know the fix either way, but it might help others figure it out.
  • nhra62nhra62 Member Posts: 2
    I does not sound as if the engine is racing. It seems like instrumentation that is why i was looking for where tach is connected or how does tach get its information on rpms.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Ok, that's probably a good sign. You can live without RPM info, but if it was actually racing, you'd have a more serious issue. Good luck finding help. My speedometer went out a few years ago; to fix it they had to replace the whole instrument unit, odometer and all. My car now has about 160,000 miles on it, but it reads 48,200 miles because of the new unit. I wonder if a new dash module is in order for you, too? Does anybody know?
  • tom1sharon2tom1sharon2 Member Posts: 40
    While I am not familiar with the differences in the model years '90 thru '93, this is the first time I've ever heard of an access panel for the fuel pump. I had always thought you could only get to it by removing the gas tank. :cry:

    There is, however, an access panel for the fuel level tank unit. Could this be what you were looking at? :confuse:

    There should be an electrical connector for the fuel pump under the back seat in near proximity to the tank unit. (Assuming) this is the connector you're checking, you should read 12v on the yellow wire and the black wire is ground. I have no idea what the red wire is, but it's not for the fuel pump. It is not shown anywhere on my schematics.

    Once you've verified that you have voltage at the pump and a good ground then your main relay is ok.

    As far as finding a cheap fuel pump goes, I can only suggest shopping around at parts stores through the yellow pages or surfing the web. If you going to do it yourself, you may want to get your hands on a maintenance manual to see what replacing it involves.
  • tom1sharon2tom1sharon2 Member Posts: 40
    Oh yes, the most important thing I neglected to mention. You your stated your readings as VAC. Thought at first this might be a typo, but if you were getting 24 volts out of a 12 volt circuit you likely had your meter set for A.C. instead of D.C., which would make your readings bogus. Make sure your meter is set on the correct VDC setting and recheck.
  • swoopineagleswoopineagle Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the information. I was checking it with VAC - I will recheck the connection with VDC. I will let everyone know what the final solution is. If there are anymore ideas out there. i would still like to hear them. Thank you
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    The fuel relay fails inttermittent. If you are getting voltage back there see if the car starts. I am still thinking its that main relay. The car would start fine in the morning in the garage, sit at work all day in the sun, and then not start when I wanted to go home...no fuel.
    When I would check it in the morning it was fine. You might want to spend a minute and google "Honda main relay" and get some hints that way too.
  • iwantmoneyiwantmoney Member Posts: 6
    I read that it may be a fast idle valve or a evac problem. The problem is I dont know what aboutthem is wrong and i dont know where to locate them on my car. Please help.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Did you say your car also overheat?
    It could be the sticky thermostat. Items 4 & 6.

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1990&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=WATER+PUMP

    If your car is not overheat, I would inspect item #14, TW sensor. But I think it's still good because your CEL did't come on.
  • jhelmsjhelms Member Posts: 1
    In the last couple of days my car has become hard to steer. It will be hard to turn and then suddenly become easy again. My first thought was that I was low on power steering fluid but after after a check and quick top off the problem is still there. Any suggestions?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Did you check to see if the drive belt is loose?

    Mrbill
  • donswartzdonswartz Member Posts: 28
    Please help me. I have a 1991 honda accord and my seat belt lights flashes and the alarm sounds. I have automatic belts. When I open the passenger's side door the sound and blinking will still continue. When I open the driver's side door it stops. When it is blinking and flashing I disconnect the driver's side selt belt and nothing happens and if I disconnect the belt on the passenger's side the light goes solid. I have taken out both seats. The harnesses below the seats are contected. I plugged and unplugged the wires from the seat belt control unit under the passenger's seat. I have read a lot of people are having problems with this just haven't been able to find the answer. Please I beg you please help. Thanks.
  • iwantmoneyiwantmoney Member Posts: 6
    the car does over heat, I thought that was a result of the rpm surging. The rpms start to surge before then engine temp gague reaches avegage temp. Also, I experimented by disconnecting the EACV plug. When I did this the check engine light came on (it never came on before) and the idle stated sugring from 1200-1400rpms instead of 1000-2500rpms. I need to fix fast, i need my car back!!
  • lvemyhondalvemyhonda Member Posts: 1
    Hey man I came across this looking for the same thing! The exact same car with the exact same problem! Thank God I thought it was just me. The only difference with mine is that the retractor on the passenger side door doesn't me like it is supposed to half the time and when it does I cant open the passenger side door or it stops working again
  • tom1sharon2tom1sharon2 Member Posts: 40
    You stated in an earlier post that the RPMS also surged while you were driving it. Do the fluctuations also occur while you're depressing the gas pedal (thus opening the throttle plate) or only when you let off the gas?
  • joenholjoenhol Member Posts: 2
    we had to change the battery in our 92 accord and we tried to put the code # in to get the stereo working again and it's not working . does anybody know anything about the anti theft security code?
  • tom1sharon2tom1sharon2 Member Posts: 40
    From a 1993 owners manual, for what it's worth.
    The radio must be on and the word "CODE" must show in the display.

    Enter the 5 digit code using the preset station buttons.
    (the code is printed on the cards that came with your radio)

    Be sure to complete the number sequence even if a mistake was made. For example, if you entered the wrong number in the second position, continue entering the last three numbers anyway. A beep will then sound after five digits are entered and the word "CODE" will reappear in the display. You should then enter the correct code.

    Once you've entered the correct code sequence the word "CODE should disappear and the radio should operate.

    If the correct code is not entered in three successive tries, the radio will not accept entry at this time. You must wait one hour with the radio left ON to re-enter the correct code.
  • donswartzdonswartz Member Posts: 28
    I have read a lot of posts around that people are having problems with this though nobody is posting how to fix it. I have tried a lot of things. I just don't want to go replacing parts if the part is good. It is a 1991 for crying out loud. Though it drives me nuts. I want to sell the car and nobody would buy it right now. I have unplugged the harness under the passenger seat. Now everytime I go to get out I closeline myself because the belt doesn't retract. Someone please help up. Thanks.
  • greeny1greeny1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, need help. My 1992 Honda Accord LX has no brake lights. All 3 bulbs are fine, checked every fuse in fuse box in engine compartment and fuse box in panel on drivers side inside of car. What should I look for now. I was told there is a brake switch under brake pedal, how do I test it? Thanks for any help.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Before replacing any parts, you might want to part with the $10 and get the Haynes or Chilton's repair manuals, or get the factory one off eBay. These little mysteries may be much clearer after that.
  • joenholjoenhol Member Posts: 2
    thanks for your response. we ended up disconnecting the battery and starting over with the code and the stereo came back on the first try.
  • iwantmoneyiwantmoney Member Posts: 6
    only when i let off of the gas.
  • totreetotree Member Posts: 2
    My 1991 honda accord's speedometer quit working.Does it operate by cable or some type of module?
  • pinoyfriendpinoyfriend Member Posts: 1
    Ok I have the same problem with my`90 accord automatic seatbelts the seat belt sign wont stop flashing and the beep er is driving me nuts,I have opened the whole panel on the passenger side and I see two switches one where its on door open position and the other on door close position now the one on the open door position is easy to replace but the one on the close door position is hard to replace any suggestions? and I don`t even know if that will fix the problem. Anyone out there have suggestions???
  • iwantmoneyiwantmoney Member Posts: 6
    New Info: I removed the IACV and found that one of the two holes had a damaged screen. The screen is completly torn. Could this be responsible for the idle surging when the engine is warm? Can someone tell me a good way to disconnect these hoses that run in and out of the IACV. They really dont want to come off and I am affraid to cut them because I think one of them is full of coolant. I have read that the IACV only effect the idle of cold engines and my problem occurs when the engine is warm. The other symptom is overheating within 8min of driving time. This seems fast, if the IACV is controlled by the thermostat then maybe the thermostat is badd too. It just oveheats so fast. Any help would be appreciated.
  • iwantmoneyiwantmoney Member Posts: 6
    !!!!!I Fixed it!!!!! I had to screw down the FITV plunger. I found a very helpful thread complete with pictures here: http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2894634#post2894634
    check it out if you are having any rpm surging problems.
  • fanghasyoufanghasyou Member Posts: 1
    I am experiencing some vibration through the floor of my accord when I'm driving. There is also a humming sound present. The vibration and hum appears to vary with varying speed. Probable cause? Thanks.
  • grammy2grammy2 Member Posts: 1
    The ac doesn't turn on. No blower fan, no cool air, NOTHIN'.The condenser fan blows. I checked all fuses,good. The weather is turning warm really fast, need some cool air! What can I check next?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I had to have the entire unit replaced in my 1996 (Trip/Odometer, Speedometer, the works). I don't know how it works though. Good luck!
  • donswartzdonswartz Member Posts: 28
    I have looked on the Internet and cannot find anything. I called the Honda dealership and they said I need to bring it in. Not surprized there. Now we have 3 people in the last week complaining about this problem. Someone has to have the answer. Who does? Please someone help us. Thanks.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    If the freon level falls too low, the compressor won't turn on. Its a safety feature to protect the compressor.
  • donswartzdonswartz Member Posts: 28
    I don't know if this corrected the problem though it has been a week and no beeping or flashing light. I unplugged the harness underneath the passenger seat that controls the seat belts for about 1 week. I wanted to see if it would act up again. I plugged it expecting to take it back out within 15 minutes. I have been about 1 week with it plugged in and nothing YET. I am sure after I post this on my way home it will act up again. I will keep you posted if it remains good.
  • justus357justus357 Member Posts: 1
    i just want to know if it is true that you have to have that front roter bearings pressed out.
  • skelpskelp Member Posts: 2
    This problem just started with my 91 Accord. Our area just switched to 10% ethanol April 28th. I have my suspisions that this may be the problem.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    They aren't offically "pressed" in, but they are tight. You have to separate the uprights to get the driveshaft out of the hub, undo the 4 bolts on the back of the hub that go through the rotor, and then find some way to get the bearing out of the upright.
    I took the uprights off and used an air hammer on the four bolts on the back of the hub. I have heard reports of people leaving the uprights on the car, pulling the axle then reconnecting the lower ball joint. Then they got a big hammer and pounded on the rotor from the back. I was afraid to do that as it renders the car undrivable if you give up on separating the two.
    This is true for 90-95 Accords.
  • kidsnoopykidsnoopy Member Posts: 3
    Well I'm not sure if this is the proper place for this posting but I have to tell someone. My 1991 Honda Accord LX just finally died. I have 410,000 miles on the same engine and transmission. I am now looking for a new Accord. I Would not buy another car after this great experience.

    Just for kicks I will post the problem. Was coming home the other evening and noticed the car began coasting. I gave it gas and the engine revved into high RPM but no response. I shifted into third thinking maybe the auto shift had snuck into neutral. The car downshifted but as I gave it gas same thing lots of RPM's but no power. I coasted to the shoulder and I noticed (as I came to a stop) steam coming from the right front.

    I got a tow home and the next morning inspected the engine. There was fluid underneath on the Transmission cover and it turned out to be anti freeze. I checked oil and Trans fluid and levels were fine. I checked the radiator and it was dry. One great thing about that honda is that It never leaked coolant. I had checked it recently though and it was full so I think whatever happened the other evening caused the water in the radiator to empty. I could not see any hole in a hose or the radiator. I'm thinking a blown head gasket or something. Never saw any rear smoke though when this happened. Only steam in the front

    Now the car does not start and sounds very funny when it turns over. It's hard to describe but I can only say that I have never heard that sound before and I have heard a lot of sounds over the years with this car.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I think a proper funeral is in order. I bet you were sad, especially after taking the car that many miles with, apparently, very few problems. Did you have the car from when it was new?

    Makes my 160,000 miles seem like the car is barely broken in!
  • kidsnoopykidsnoopy Member Posts: 3
    Yes, I bought this car new. People I know kept telling me to call Honda and see about getting in a commercial but I told them that this was probably not all that unusual. I have to be honest at times I was absolutely terrible when it came to changing oil. Often I would let it got 10-15k miles before changing. I did the oil changes myself. I told my friends it was probably the oil (tar) that was holding the engine together and not changing was a good strategy.

    Actually, I can't stress enough how important it is to change the oil regularly. I really just got lucky. Anyway I bought the Honda at the time because of it's record for low maintenance and great quality. I'm glad to hear that the new ones are just as good. I start looking today for my new Accord EX-L.
  • sudzsudz Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a '93 Accord wagon with an automatic transmission. When driven at highway speeds it will downshift from 4th gear to 3rd gear, then back. So far its only done this in the mornings and will only do it once or twice a trip. Any clues? Thanks!
  • usedcars1usedcars1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Accord Anniversary Edition with noise coming from the front end that sounds between a "hum" and a "whine". It usually occurs just after engaging in reverse or forward but will occasionally happen when driving at a steady pace (35mph). Since the sound usually happens only when the engine is cold and not long in duration it has been next to impossible for a mechanic to diagnosis the problem over the past couple of years. I have very low mileage (83K) on this car and just recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Does this sound like a tranny problem? If so, it this repairable with parts or need to totally rebuild or replace new? Also, when the car is started and parked the idle speed will occasionally and violently race up and down until the car is engaged in forward or reverse. Any thoughts on what is causing this and how to fix the problem?
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    :sick: My bros. 91 accord sedan goes ballistic when it idles below 1k rpm. The rear driver window goes down fine but it has to sit 2-5 minutes before it can go up. The drivers window yells with authority when the button is pressed down. When closed, the driver's window escapes the track and sticks out about an inch away from the door when close all the way. The armrest, stereo, and moonroof visor have been stolen from the car and i suspect came from the space between the window. Can someone give me any suggestions on what to do? The car has 149222 miles, is a 1991 ex and cloth and the ac is ice cold. The master cylinder and timing belt have been replaced within the last 72hours and no problems have resolved :sick: :cry::( .
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