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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    This site has a lot of information on 4th gen Accords (including the dreaded "S" light, in the transmission section). It could help both of you diagnose your problems. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/
  • twcinnhtwcinnh Member Posts: 14
    I took the car to a new mechanic. He took a look, cleaned off the leaking fluid and said come back in a few days so we can see better where the leak is.

    After taking another look when I got back he took a look at the transmission lines and said it could be the old rubber/synthetic lines connecting the metal lines. Replacing that was $minimal.

    It's now been over a year and there are no leaks.

    Regards,

    Tom
  • twcinnhtwcinnh Member Posts: 14
    My wife had to have the car jumped. Since there has been no chime when lights are left on, the code light for the Bose radio is on but it won't accept the code, the interior cabin light doesn't come on, nor the green ignition light when the car is unlocked and door opened.

    I've checked all the fuses I can find but seen no problems.

    What could be next?

    Regards,

    Tom
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    I've heard from multiple sources that if your battery isn't good, then your alternator can quit on you rather quickly (as in a couple of hours even). So then your car runs off of the battery, draining it. My suggestion is: take it to your local Autozone (or equivalent), they should be able to test your whole charging system while its on the vehicle. My other suggestion is to replace the battery, alternator, and belt as a whole and clean your battery terminals with a post cleaner tool, and to remove corrosion use some baking soda and water and scrub with a tooth brush. As for your s light and your check engine light, on the passenger side, around the corner of the firewall and the door, there is a blue connector that doesn't go to anything (you may have to move the carpet) use a paper clip to bridge the terminals and turn the key to the on position (don't start the car). both lights will flash out a code, long flash for the first number in a two digit code; short flashes for the second digit. take them to Autozone or a high reputation shop. They should tell what they mean. Hope this helps! :lemon:
  • twcinnhtwcinnh Member Posts: 14
    A piece of information I neglected to include was this was over 1 year ago that the car was jumped. I haven't driven it until recently when I noticed the problems with the radio, chimes, etc.

    So, I suspect the battery is 'good enough'. It's just that I miss the radio, and the chimes that remind when the lights are left on would help prevent another incident like the one that started this.

    Regards,

    Tom
  • twcinnhtwcinnh Member Posts: 14
    Now, there's something new. I've been driving the car since June, that's about 6 months and this morning when I was leaving I noticed the green ignition light was on for the first time. Also, the car started immediately where is usually takes a second or so.

    Later I attempted to input the code for the Bose radio, and it worked. The chime worked for the headlights as well.

    Does this sound like a weak batter or failing alternator as mentioned above.

    Thanks for any response.

    Tom
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Weak battery, or loose/corroded connections could be the cause. A weak battery was causing strange things on my 03.
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Try cleaning your battery and terminals first. Then try charging your battery with a good charger (not one of those wimpy float chargers). It will take a full night to fully charge (don't go by any indicators on the charger, it needs to deep charge). Then before you go out and buy a battery or alternator, save yourself some cash and have your battery and charging system tested. Most major auto parts places (like Autozone) should do it for free. Hope this helps! :lemon:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    All good suggestions, and in this order too.
  • w9qw9q Member Posts: 2
    Hi all!
    When it is dark, I can illuminate the numbers on my tachometer and speedometer by turning the dimmer switch. But the needle pointers are not illuminated! I just can't see them in the night unless I turn on interior lighting. Are the gauge needles supposed to be illuminated?
    Thanks a lot
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Illuminated gauge needles didn't appear until 1998. You shouldn't have a problem seeing them since they are lighted from above/front.
  • w9qw9q Member Posts: 2
    thegraduate, thanks! So the needles are supposed to be illuminated from above/front of the instrument panel, but they are not. Which means that I'll probably have to find and replace the above/front bulbs, right?

    Do I have to remove console, radio, then instrumental panel, then disassemble the instrumental panel to access the lamps, or is there a short cut?
    Thanks a lot.
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    There are two bulbs illuminating (or supposed to be illuminating) your needles. Some of them have these gel cap things, I think to reduce the amount of light reflected at you. I just went through this myself. Yes you have to remove the whole instrument panel/radio trim piece to access the instrument cluster. There are some cleverly hidden screws to undo, so don't force it out until you know you got them all. It would also help if you remove the cover on the steering column. Basically there are screws in all the vents on the trim piece, and behind all the switches, and you will have to remove the center console cover to get the radio out. I would check all the bulbs because when I changed one burned out one, then I haggled the stuff back together, ant three more had burned out. also, if you take off the clear cover, make sure you don't bump the gas gauge. It will stay at the level you bumped it at. There are no shortcuts that I know of. Hope this helps! :lemon:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I think oldschool90 can take you from here. I've never replaced them myself (I had one of four burn out in my '96 and paid through the nose to get it replaced). Lots of labor involved.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    I went to my mechanic and mentioned my TCM is acting up with the blinky D4 light.
    He tells me it can only be two things, tranny or silenoids. He gave me a $69 quote to diagnose the silenoids. what to do?
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    Unless your mechanic actually pulled the codes from the computer, he is wrong and you need a new mechanic.

    Your TCM is indicating a fault somewhere which you can determine by jumping the diagnostic connection with a paper clip. Depending on the number of flashes, you can (perhaps) diagnose the problem. Note - it is seldom the transmission itself.
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hey Gojackets,

    Thanks for your input. If I'm not mistaken, the code 14 came up on my Accord. My Honda book says code is the IAC valve. Can you verify this? Is this a costly thing to check and fix? Thanks

    Jim
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Sounds like you might be reading the wrong code in the book. If your looking at the D4 or S light, your probably looking at the engine trouble codes in the book. The IAC valve controls some of the airflow to the engine according to it's temperature. It's a $250 (give or take a few) part to replace new. :lemon:
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    Is the car fixed?
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    hi

    nope, car is not fixed yet. I've noticed in cooler weather, the D4 light is not blinking, so it's sort of fixed temporarily.
    Jim
  • oahuboyoahuboy Member Posts: 8
    tried starting the car this morning..won't start. Blinking D4 light i think is the problem. Ive been fine driving with it when the light just wouldn't show when it was in D4 gear..All the other gears light up just not that one. But now i believe its the reason i can't start the car..Need help
  • oahuboyoahuboy Member Posts: 8
    tried starting the car this morning..won't start. Blinking D4 light i think is the problem. Ive been fine driving with it when the light just wouldn't show when it was in D4 gear..All the other gears light up just not that one. But now i believe its the reason i can't start the car..Need help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Blinking D4 light is a transmission fault code. You'll have to short out the diagnostic connector and read the codes to find out more.

    more info HERE
  • ekb2004ekb2004 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1992 honda accord ...The dash board light is not coming on... the horn isnt working and lastly the heat in the front doesnt work but somethings it comes on and goes off, but that of the back still works,, what can i do to resolve this problem
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Member Posts: 19
    ...anyone have any experience replacing driver's side power window/regulator assy?....made the mistake of using during sub-zero temps and my window is stuck halfway, while motor continued and stopped...suspect gear shear or fried switch?...have removed door panel and all 10mm bolts---how is assy removed?...please help
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Just went through this myself quite recently. After removing the door panel and the bolts, remove it through the large access hole on the bottom left of the door. The track must be at its narrowest position (about half way down). It may take a bit of wiggling, but it should come out relatively easy. Make sure you take off the window bolts and the window guide, then take out the window. Make sure you unplug the regulator plug too. :lemon:
  • oahuboyoahuboy Member Posts: 8
    cant figure out what the problem is. Any likely components i should check or replace?
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    Check the Neutral Safety Switch and the Brake Light Switch (behind the brake pedal).

    It seems like a safety feature is not allowing the car to start. But since you have an automatic..........it could also be the Transmission Control Unit (common problem).

    Check all these components before throwing money into the car.
  • oahuboyoahuboy Member Posts: 8
    thank you for you help ..i'll give it a try
  • 94shadow94shadow Member Posts: 31
    Hi all,
    I have a question about the temperature gauge sending unit wire.
    Can you cut the wire and solder it back together? Will the gauge work after you solder it together. I need to lenghten the wire to reach the fitting to connect my gauge.
    I have a 92 Honda Accord LX with a 2.2L, F22A engine.
    Hope to hear from anyone.

    Thanks :surprise: :surprise:
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    Yes. It will work it you properly solder it back. Make sure the connection is secure and will not short.
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Hi all!
    Need some help. Changed the head gasket on our 1990 Honda Accord EX (and let me tell you, what a pain in the a**) Got it put back together, and now it wont start. I need some advice on what to do next. Also, the ECU is setting a trouble code for the throttle position angle sensor, and we cant figure out how to test it properly, so any advice will be welcome. We've got a multimeter, but dont know what setting to put it on (I know its the ohm sign, just dont know what number to put it on) and any readings we get are backwards to what the book says. So any advice will be appreciated. Thanks! :lemon:
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    Make sure all your grounds are clean and tightly connected. Particularly..........pay attention to the the ground cable going to the thermostat housing.

    Does the engine turn over strongly but fails to fire up?
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Where is the ground for the thermostat? Yes it cranks pretty strong, and when I tried to start it the first time, it almost started, but then it decided not too. I haven't been able to get the same response since. :lemon:
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Not sure what your multimeter has for settings but,

    Ω setting reads 0-999 ohms resistance, touching the leads together should display near 0

    KΩ setting reads 1000-999,999 ohms resistance
    MΩ settings reads 1,000,000 ohms and up

    The most important thing when making resistance measurements, it's done on UNPOWERERED CURCUITS ONLY!!. You can fry a meter making resistance measurements on powered circuits.

    DCV for voltages typically tested on autos, or other things that run on batteries
    ACV for voltages typically found in your home outlets

    uA, mA, A settings are for reading current draw. Your meter will have one for DC volts and another for AC volts. When reading uA, mA, or A, you need to move the lead from the "COM" jack to the "A" jack on the meter.

    If you have an auto ranging meter, you won't have as many settings, just Ω, DCV, ACV, and A, the meter changes to the right range automatically. If it is an auto ranging meter, the display should also show what range it's measuring in, Ω, KΩ, MΩ, or uA, mA, A.

    BTW, are you sure you got the timing right on the belt?

    Mrbill
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The Throttle Angle Sensor, connected to the side of the throttle body, is a linear potentiometer. It is connected to the throttle shaft. As the throttle angle changes, the throttle angle sensor varies the voltage signal to the ECU. The ECU uses this voltage signal along with the MAP Sensor voltage signal to determine engine load. The typical output voltage at idle is approx. 0-0.5 volts and at wide open throttle approx. 4.5 volts.

    You don't measure resistance on this particular TPS. You measure voltage from the right and left terminals of the TPS.

    And yeah, you'd better check your timing marks (groan). :(
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    So the car won't run even if its one tooth off of where the mark is? How do I tension it without losing the marks? :lemon:
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    Look at the thermostat housing...........there is a 10mm bolt with a braided wire attached.

    Since you said you did your head gasket.............make sure you didn't put the distributor 180 degree off. That's the only thing you could've disturbed. And do check the timing marks.

    Report back with your findings. I always like to start with the simple things first.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably won't run, or would run badly. Well you said you had the manual, so that should tell you everything about setting timing marks (engine timing I mean, not ignition timing).

    You might go over all your tune-up stuff as well.
  • sib1sib1 Member Posts: 5
    what would make 95 accord start to rave very high
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    a bad fitv valve.
  • sib1sib1 Member Posts: 5
    what is a fitv valve and where is located thank you
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    Its a thermovalve and attached to the intake manifold
  • sib1sib1 Member Posts: 5
    is it right under the distributer
  • tempmantempman Member Posts: 3
    i have a 92 honda accord 2.2 auto,the wife went to pull in the garage today said it didnt want to move said it sounded like she was stuck in the mud but there was no mud.so i checked it out,not slipping but on the dash the D4 light stays on even while going through the gears the light goes up and down but the D4 never goes out.
    Please help!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    tempman,
    You probably have a bad transmission computer. If you want to make sure, take the cover off, and look for dark spots on the circuit board. The capacitors leak, and short out the circuits. A new computer will cost quite a bit, from the dealership.
  • tempmantempman Member Posts: 3
    Thank You Elroy5,
    I have seen trans computers on E-bay, are they worth having?Is the computer somewhere around the passenger floor board?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Peel the passenger side carpet back, from under the dash. The little plastic piece in front of the passenger side door just pulls off from the back side too. The carpet should just come out from under the console. The engine and transmisssion computers are under a cover plate. I can't remember how to tell one from the other though. The large plugs that go into the computers are in there REAL tight. Good luck
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Hey Tempman

    I bought one used from Ebay for $65. It worked for a few weeks and now my 93 Accord is back to driving with a bad TCM unit. When buying a used part from Ebay, You're facing the possibilities of a TCM unit going bad pretty quick. I just may look for another one and hope it'll last a lot longer.
    Good luck
    cybercool
  • bluesman73bluesman73 Member Posts: 3
    my 1990 honda accord 2.2 liter will start when i turn the key, when the key is released it stops running.
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