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After taking another look when I got back he took a look at the transmission lines and said it could be the old rubber/synthetic lines connecting the metal lines. Replacing that was $minimal.
It's now been over a year and there are no leaks.
Regards,
Tom
I've checked all the fuses I can find but seen no problems.
What could be next?
Regards,
Tom
So, I suspect the battery is 'good enough'. It's just that I miss the radio, and the chimes that remind when the lights are left on would help prevent another incident like the one that started this.
Regards,
Tom
Later I attempted to input the code for the Bose radio, and it worked. The chime worked for the headlights as well.
Does this sound like a weak batter or failing alternator as mentioned above.
Thanks for any response.
Tom
When it is dark, I can illuminate the numbers on my tachometer and speedometer by turning the dimmer switch. But the needle pointers are not illuminated! I just can't see them in the night unless I turn on interior lighting. Are the gauge needles supposed to be illuminated?
Thanks a lot
Do I have to remove console, radio, then instrumental panel, then disassemble the instrumental panel to access the lamps, or is there a short cut?
Thanks a lot.
I went to my mechanic and mentioned my TCM is acting up with the blinky D4 light.
He tells me it can only be two things, tranny or silenoids. He gave me a $69 quote to diagnose the silenoids. what to do?
Your TCM is indicating a fault somewhere which you can determine by jumping the diagnostic connection with a paper clip. Depending on the number of flashes, you can (perhaps) diagnose the problem. Note - it is seldom the transmission itself.
Thanks for your input. If I'm not mistaken, the code 14 came up on my Accord. My Honda book says code is the IAC valve. Can you verify this? Is this a costly thing to check and fix? Thanks
Jim
nope, car is not fixed yet. I've noticed in cooler weather, the D4 light is not blinking, so it's sort of fixed temporarily.
Jim
more info HERE
It seems like a safety feature is not allowing the car to start. But since you have an automatic..........it could also be the Transmission Control Unit (common problem).
Check all these components before throwing money into the car.
I have a question about the temperature gauge sending unit wire.
Can you cut the wire and solder it back together? Will the gauge work after you solder it together. I need to lenghten the wire to reach the fitting to connect my gauge.
I have a 92 Honda Accord LX with a 2.2L, F22A engine.
Hope to hear from anyone.
Thanks :surprise: :surprise:
Need some help. Changed the head gasket on our 1990 Honda Accord EX (and let me tell you, what a pain in the a**) Got it put back together, and now it wont start. I need some advice on what to do next. Also, the ECU is setting a trouble code for the throttle position angle sensor, and we cant figure out how to test it properly, so any advice will be welcome. We've got a multimeter, but dont know what setting to put it on (I know its the ohm sign, just dont know what number to put it on) and any readings we get are backwards to what the book says. So any advice will be appreciated. Thanks! :lemon:
Does the engine turn over strongly but fails to fire up?
Ω setting reads 0-999 ohms resistance, touching the leads together should display near 0
KΩ setting reads 1000-999,999 ohms resistance
MΩ settings reads 1,000,000 ohms and up
The most important thing when making resistance measurements, it's done on UNPOWERERED CURCUITS ONLY!!. You can fry a meter making resistance measurements on powered circuits.
DCV for voltages typically tested on autos, or other things that run on batteries
ACV for voltages typically found in your home outlets
uA, mA, A settings are for reading current draw. Your meter will have one for DC volts and another for AC volts. When reading uA, mA, or A, you need to move the lead from the "COM" jack to the "A" jack on the meter.
If you have an auto ranging meter, you won't have as many settings, just Ω, DCV, ACV, and A, the meter changes to the right range automatically. If it is an auto ranging meter, the display should also show what range it's measuring in, Ω, KΩ, MΩ, or uA, mA, A.
BTW, are you sure you got the timing right on the belt?
Mrbill
You don't measure resistance on this particular TPS. You measure voltage from the right and left terminals of the TPS.
And yeah, you'd better check your timing marks (groan).
Since you said you did your head gasket.............make sure you didn't put the distributor 180 degree off. That's the only thing you could've disturbed. And do check the timing marks.
Report back with your findings. I always like to start with the simple things first.
You might go over all your tune-up stuff as well.
Please help!
You probably have a bad transmission computer. If you want to make sure, take the cover off, and look for dark spots on the circuit board. The capacitors leak, and short out the circuits. A new computer will cost quite a bit, from the dealership.
I have seen trans computers on E-bay, are they worth having?Is the computer somewhere around the passenger floor board?
I bought one used from Ebay for $65. It worked for a few weeks and now my 93 Accord is back to driving with a bad TCM unit. When buying a used part from Ebay, You're facing the possibilities of a TCM unit going bad pretty quick. I just may look for another one and hope it'll last a lot longer.
Good luck
cybercool