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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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  • jdipjdip Member Posts: 2
    mike711, i really need your help. I have the "s" light on solid, the car stuck in second gear and no codes coming up. The honda dealer can not help me, they tell me that i need a new transmission, however the problem goes away for a couple days when you restart the computer, then just comes right back. did you have any luck with replacing the TCU? Did it solve the problem? Anyone out there with any suggestions?
  • jdipjdip Member Posts: 2
    pastatie, I will now search ebay for the transmission control module...how did you know which module to buy? you said "BE VERY CAREFUL which module you get as Honda had a lot of problems with these from 90-93 and superseded parts numbers." can you give me a hand?
  • johnxdubjohnxdub Member Posts: 2
    i have the same problem, did u ever find a solution for it?
    please let me know. thank you and god bless.
  • pastatiepastatie Member Posts: 26
    jdip,
    If you have a friendly Honda dealer parts department just call and ask what is the exact part number. I don't have the number of the one I took out ( which was the original installed unit) but the one I bought on Ebay, and the one which will also work, is 28100-PX4-823. This is a superseded unit # from the stock number. I got this number from a parts guy at my local Honda dealer so I purchased it on that basis and it works on my 1991 Accord LX sedan. There is a difference between EX and the DX-LX models so this is where my caution comes from. Hope this helps.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    If you google Majestic Honda they have an online parts area that has the micro-fische (sp?) for most Hondas by model and year. You get an exploded view of the assembly and all the part numbers.
    Their prices seem good but the shipping seems a lil steep.
  • twolfe2409twolfe2409 Member Posts: 7
    I had the same problem, had the ignitor changed and then the relay switch.
  • johnxdubjohnxdub Member Posts: 2
    thx!! but any chance, do u remember how much the labor and parts were?
  • bobedmundsgbobedmundsg Member Posts: 3
    I just got a this car and need to replace the transaxle (CV). It is a manual transmission without ABS. The parts seem to be reasonably priced and I'm thinking of doing the replacement myself. I've heard this is an easy (?) repair. Should I pick the cheapest remanufactured parts or go with OEM new? Any tips on the removal and installation procedures? Thanks.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    Hi man, I checked my car and this is what I found. Recently I sent my car I the guy paiented & repaired it. He also told me that I should replace the rear "windshield" since there was rust under the (rubber & joint) that holds the glass to the frame. I checked that out. I opened the trunk and left it open, I poured some water on the rear glass and came down to the canals around the trunk. between the rubber and the chasis and the rubber that holds the rear glass some water got into the rust and leaked into the trunk !!! Is there anyway I could repair that without taking off the rear glass.And If I have too, Do I have to repaint the whole car?

    Thank you in advance
  • sed1sed1 Member Posts: 8
    There are clips,that any local body shop should have, that fit on the outside of the window and guide it into the window rubber. Our body guy didn't even charge us for clipping it into the window frame. That took care of our problem.
  • brosutmanbrosutman Member Posts: 2
    My son was driving and the engine died. No trouble restarting but now it will not come out of Park. Oddly, the power windows stopped working at the same time. All fuses I can find are fine. Is there really a fuse or relay between the ignition and the brake pedal?
  • voicebreaker1voicebreaker1 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever find out what happend to your car because I have a 93 accord doing the exact same thing and my display won't light up and my gauges don't come on either I had to take the shifter off and remove the hydrolic thing that stops the shifter from moving and it drove fine but nothing works please let me know if you figure out the problem thanks
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Member Posts: 75
    me again man,
    I just got the honda1990 manual . Is it the thermostat the only thign I should check? If there is a Temperature sensor, where is located? I don't see it!
    :cry::cry:
    Thanks
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    I know there is one temp sensor on the t-stat housing, I think there is one on the other side of the block where the coolant comes in. I am not sure which one is controls the gauge. I will see if i can dig up more when I get home.
  • brosutmanbrosutman Member Posts: 2
    Honda garage says it is in the ignition switch itself. They led me to believe that if I replace the switch the problem will be solved. We shall see!
    Thanks for the feedback.
  • orenroccaorenrocca Member Posts: 2
    Hey i have a 1992 honda accord sedan EX and out of no where all of my in dash lights dont come on! i replaced the only fuse that i could find and still nothing!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    you tried turning the intensity control to both extremes?
  • orenroccaorenrocca Member Posts: 2
    ya but nothing i fixed it though the fuse box under the hood there were 2 fuses blown so i replaced them
  • twolfe2409twolfe2409 Member Posts: 7
    I am having the same problem with my 93 with 105,000 miles. i have the same acceleration problems and sometimes it would not start and i would come back hours and it would start (would not turn over). i put an ignitor on it. now twice it has not started but would turn over. i put a relay switch on it and that did not solve the problem. i think it is the fuel pump, however when it goes to the shop, they can't duplicate the problem. a fuel pump is $500 and my trans is slipping a little due to having my fluid flushed (2 yrs ago). i don't no what to do. it's in the shop now and they told me to come get it because they can't diagnose it. i hate to get rid of it. it's an EX with no rust and it's loaded.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Did you change the ignitor because it wasn't getting spark? Did you say you had changed the main relay under the dash (just under the cluster and above the brake pedal)? Was that because it wasn't getting fuel? I have yet to see a fuel pump go bad, although eventually they must. When it doesn't start, you should do a little debugging to find out why before you throw more parts at it. You can pull a plug wire and put in a $3 fake spark plug from Harbor Freight that will tell you if there is spark or not. If you are getting spark, check the main relay. It triggers the fuel pump and when it goes bad, the fuel pump doesn't operate correctly.
    When they flushed your transmission, did they refill it with the right fluid? I know Chrysler transmissions were very sensitive to the additive package, I would expect others to be similar.
  • twolfe2409twolfe2409 Member Posts: 7
    I took my car to a shop after it stalled on me twice while I was driving (it would just cut off). He could not diagnose the problem, but he was almost sure it was the ignitor. A couple of weeks later, I came home from work and when i went to get back in to drive, it would not start. the shop put a relay switch on it and it did the same thing. it is back at the shop, he is going to take the relay switch off and give me my money back. he thinks it may be the fuel pump but he is not sure because its running fine now. As for the transmission, i was told never to change the fluid if you have high mileage because it will mess up the transmission. That's what happened.
  • twolfe2409twolfe2409 Member Posts: 7
    Ignitor was about $175 and relay switch was $85.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The fuel pumps do go out (had to change mine on my 92 EX). It's not easy because you have to drop the tank to change it. If you, or a friend, are mechanically inclined maybe you could change it yourself (for much less than $500).
  • pkyllopkyllo Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 HOnda Accord EX 4 Door which has been having No start issues for some time. I am at a loss and would appriciate any input. My car is turning over but is not firing up. At first i thought it was a fuel issue becuase i was having no fuel pressure. I replaced the Fuel Filter. Fuel Pump, and pressure regulator. Still no fuel. Checked the Main relay and replaced the Fuel Relay. Still not start. I replaced the Distributor and still it wont start. It almost started today but no go. I have spent far too much money on this car and i really need to get it running. I am open for Ideas on what the problem may be. I have mechanics stumped and the dealership cant help me.
    Checked all fuses and connections. they are good.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    You would need to check for spark (take one plug out and crank engine with wire connected and grounded to engine). Then if you have spark, remove the air breather hose from the throttle body, and spray some carburetor cleaner in. If the engine starts momentarily, your engine is starved for fuel. The main relay will usually not work when it is very hot inside the car, then when the interior cools, it will work again (cracked solder joints). There are links for troubleshooting the system. Do a google search for Accord main relay. You might get lucky.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This might help as well:

    http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301a.htm
  • fonge920fonge920 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 4sp automatic 1993 Honda Accord DX with 97,000 miles. When I come to a stop, the transmission doesn't downshift making it hard to gain speed again. When I am going uphill, I have to manually put it into 1st or 2nd and then get back up to D4, otherwise I can't make it up. The transmission is not slipping. On the dash, no matter what gear I am in, the D4 light is lit up as well as the other gear light that I'm in. I've heard that there's a solenoid that possibly could control this, but which one? Thanks for any help.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If your D4 light is staying on, even when the car is in Park, your transmission computer is going out. If you were to take the cover off, you would see dark spots on the circuit boards where the capacitors have leaked on them. The condition will usually be worse when it is hot inside the car. I would try to find a used tcu (from the same model car), because a new one will cost you at least $500 at the dealership.
  • pkyllopkyllo Member Posts: 2
    My spark is doing fine, and i tried that. i removed the breather hose a while back and sprayed some cleaner in it, and didnt do anything. I dont see how my car would be starved for fuel. seeing how i have no clue it wouldnt be getting to the engine itself. and the main relay hasnt given me any problems before when it was hotter than what it has been lately. and that like i said has been replaced twice. I have tried starting it at night when it is cool but no go. did what the accord main relay link said before and didnt help any of my problems.
  • fonge920fonge920 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you so much. By going off that, I found this site that had a little bit more information, and I don't see how it could be any other problem. Now it's just finding one locally if I can. Here is the paragraph from that site, just in case anyone needs it here:

    "The engine and transmission computers for the Hondas are usually located under the carpet of the passenger side floor/foot rest area. Remove the carpet, which may require loosening the door jam or trim areas of passenger kick panel. Once the carpet is pulled back you should see a large (and you'll find out soon, quite heavy) "bash" or protection plate. This can be removed by extracting the fastening screws to the plate and moving the plate to the side. There are two or three plugs in each unit. Depress the center of the tab and pull away from the unit. The transmission computer is the one with the prefix part number "28100" and the engine controller has a prefix of "37820". As we stated, the trans controller is much more prone for failure. Be sure to check your distributor and ignition components before investing in an engine controller. Most trans computers and repairable and you will likely be in "limp mode" or "fail safe" mode which is 3rd gear and rev only and the "D" or "D4" light will flash or stay lit. Often the Sped sensors or shift solenoids are adversely affected and must also be replaced. Be sure to have them tested before reinstalling reman trans computer."
  • pastatiepastatie Member Posts: 26
    FONGE920,
    Go back to post #359 and this has been pretty well talked about even before that. I guarantee you need a transmission control module to solve your problem. The replacement number has been posted previously for this module. I got mine on Ebay. My local foreign car salvage yards have a hard time keeping these in stock. It would seem from the other posts that @100,000 miles these go bad in the 90-93 model years. Hope this helps.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Your mechanic should be able to measure fuel pressure going into the motor (like at the fuel rail), that should give you a definitive answer on fuel pressure getting to the motor.
    You mention you have spark, but do you have timing? You might want to double check the ignition timing on the distributor to make sure you are getting the spark at the right time.
    I have never heard of this happening with an Accord, but sometimes the timing belt for the valves can slip a tooth or two and that can create problems. Again I think this is pretty unlikely.
  • sed1sed1 Member Posts: 8
    You might try changing out the coil too. I changed the coil out before changing the igniter before changing out the main relay and, between these three things, finally fixed my similar problem with our 93 Accord (sound of knuckles knocking on wood).
  • bodyshopguybodyshopguy Member Posts: 2
    I purchased and now own a 91 Accord EX. I replaced the head because of broken timing belt. I installed a new timing belt and water pump. I also replaced the AC compressor.
    The first problem has to do with the engine reving up and down by it self. It's a slow rev, and it usually goes from 500 RPM to about 2000 RPM. It will do this randomly, but mostly when I start the car or put it into park. Some times it does it even while it is in drive and will try to over power the brakes. I notice that it causes the trasmission to have a "hard" downshift, and cause the car to surge when I let off of the gas pedal. Today I removed the Idle control valve to clean it and noticed that it did not have a screen. I went ahead and cleaned it. It actually helped things for a few minutes, and then it went back to the usual.
    My next problem is the engine temp. The car can get alittle warm sometimes, too warm for comfort. I notice that when I'm stopped somewhere, like at a stop light, the car when warm up to about 3/4. When I start moving the car will cool down to almost halfway. One really strange thing is when the car is getting hot, I can turn on the AC and the engine will instantly cool down to below halfway. I was thinking that it could be due to the fact that it turns on one of the fans, or sometimes both fans. With the AC off the fans come on randomly and usually not when the car is hot. I replaced the thermostat today, and it is still being weird. I also bled the coolent system so I wouldn't have air pockets.
    One other small problem is the D4 light doesn't come on.
    Any suggestion?
  • snugosnugo Member Posts: 1
    I'm a new member and I recently got a 1993 Accord LX A/T off a friend. Engine runs smoothly, transmission's ok but it hangs on to first a little too long for me (I'm not used to A/T so I don’t know if that's just me). For the last week or so I noticed the battery light's been coming off briefly especially under hard acceleration but since the terminals were well connected I figured it was just a quirk with auto transmission cars.

    On my way to work this morning the light blinked on n off a bit more than usual and on a clear patch of road I hit about 80mph then the tachometer and speedo went dead. I also noticed the instrument panel lights were a little dimmer than before as were my headlights. After a while the speedo came back online but the tacho was all over the place. Every time I hit the brakes, beeped the horn or used the indicators the speedo would drop to zero along with the tacho.

    Since the engine didn't seem affected I thot I’d get it to the office then call someone in to look at it. Fortunately before I ended the trip all went back to normal.

    Is this going to be a problem or is that normal?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The "Battery" light you are speaking of is actually an indicator for your car's electrical system(moreover, and indicator of a problem). It sounds like your alternator is going out to me, especially since the speedo and interior lights went dim.

    I'd bet money that it's your alternator.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Wow, thats a lot to think about. I think the temp sensor that controls the gauge and the temp sensor that controls the fans are different. I would check the manual and see which one to check that turns on the fan. Turning on the Ac forces at least one of the fans to turn on.
    There may also be some air bubbles left in the cooling system that should work out.
    Another scenario is the water pump isn't spinning fast enough at idle, which would imply the pump is bad or there is some issue with the timing belt or its tension or the cam timing. I would think though if that was off, the car would run so poorly you would know right away.
  • pak996pak996 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 91 Accord LX that has just over 100K mi. The strangest thing happened this morning on the fwy...All of a sudden the the speedometer needle started bouncing, and then went to 0. Then the seat belt light came on, but the car was running fine. At lunch time I went to start the car and it fires right up to idle and immediately died. It did this 2-3 times before starting and idling smoothly, although a little low. Leaving work today, the same symptoms appeared, only this time it was more difficult to start and and keep running. It fires right up and dies immediately. It took about 10 tries to start before it would idle without dying.
    I do not believe it to be fuel related because it ran fine at lunch time with no fuel starvation issues, and it ran all the way home with no running issues.
    I believe it to be something electrical (ECM, relay, related) but cannot imagine where to start. Any ideas or suggestions from the gurus would be greatly appreciated.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    VSS. Vehicle Speed Sensor. It controls the speedometer. It's on the transmission somewhere.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    All of you guys need to do a google search for Honda tech. There aren't enough guys to help you here.

    I'm sorry if this kind of advise is not allowed on this forum, but these guys need REAL help.
  • pak996pak996 Member Posts: 2
    elroy5,
    Will the VSS prevent the car from starting? As stated in my original post, the car now fires up but immediately dies. It may take as many as 10-15 attempts to start the car before it remains running.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    no that's fine as long as you don't blatantly advertise other forums. Sometimes people find what they need here but we rely on people like you to provide various resources to the community here--and vice-versa from other people to you, we hope.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Thank you, very much. Mr. Shiftright.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    That particular symptom sounds like either the fuel pump or igniter. You need to check for fuel (when this happens), and check for spark. Take a plug out, leave it connected to the plug wire, and ground it on the engine. Crank the engine, and check for spark from the plug. To check for fuel starvation, take the air filter tube off the throttle body, and spray some carburetor cleaner in there. If it runs on the cleaner, then dies again, your fuel pump could be the problem. My fuel pump went out on my 92 Accord (not fun to change). Good luck with the diagnosis.

    PS: Don't crank the engine for extended periods with the plug out. With the plug out, and cranking the engine, you should get a gas smell coming from the cylinder that has no plug in it. good luck again.

    That's all I can think of to try, at this point. Try not to just buy parts, and throw them at the problem. This can get very expensive, and frustrating.
  • purdygalpurdygal Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 honda accord ex, 162850. Probably for about a year now I have been having a pretty bad shaking problem mainly when im in reverse and if I am in park and shift into other gears; you can literally feel the motor move; so obviously I took it in a while ago and had it looked at. When I took it in the guy told me that it was the motor mounts but that it hadnt got bad enough to worry about spending the money to fix it and basically that it was going to be a pain and a good amount of money to fix. So, I let it go, and here recently it has got worse so I let someone else look at it and now the rear motor mount is completely gone. Obviously, thats not a good thing. My question is how hard would it be to replace this back motor mount. Figures that the one that happens to break just so happens to be the most expensive out of all of them. ha! If I got the parts (the mounts)would this be something my dad could possibly do for me? Or should I not even bother with something like this and take it to someone? Do you think I could possibly get the parts from a salvage yard to save money, since I will only be needing the car for about another year and a half? :cry:
  • ericjfericjf Member Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a 1993 Accord Lx and was given a keyless entry system as a gift
    i have spent 2+ hours looking for the wires. A black/white wire and a black/red wire. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions with installing a keyless entry system.
    Thanks
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    The back motor mount with the automatic trans is some type of electric hydraulic thing and is pretty pricey IIRC. It is a little bit of a PITA to get to because of what you have to remove to access the mounting bolts.
    I would skip a wrecking yard for this since its likely that the part is worn on out on a car that is dead enough to be in a salvage yard in the first place.
    Majestic Honda has a discounted price sheet that might give you an idea what the part cost is and the exploded view gives an idea of the installation difficulty
  • pastatiepastatie Member Posts: 26
    I agree totally with lilengineerboy. My 1991 had this motor mount problem from when I purchased it used at 24,000 miles---just sold the car at 144K and it still shook, more so when the A/C was on. It was only at idle, reverse mainly and off idle everything smoothed out. A competent Honda mechanic told me the engine wouldn't fall out and the thing is a bear (and quite expensive) to change. I would suggest living with it unless you have the shakes off idle speed. Good luck.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    I believe turning on the A/C should kick on both fans since one fan will run regardless and the other cycles on automatically with the activation of the A/C. I would suspect your problem lies either with the thermostatic switch controlling the fan or that first fan itself.

    As for the engine surging problem see below about the Fast Idle Valve and Idle Air Control Valve. This is all the info I found online when I had a similar problem:

    **It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place.
    --------------------------------------------------
    fast idle valve... I spent like 50 bucks on it at hparts.com. If you are looking at the motor (*standing in front of the car) look on the intakemanifold. The fastidle valve is on the front side of the IM on the right hand side. Its got two rubber hoses connected to it, and a copper top. Replace the whole assembly, and your car will be normal again.
    --------------------------------------------------
    Finally with the intake pipe off of the t/b one of my friends noticed a 10mm bolt missing from the Fast idle valve underneeth the throttle body. I pulled the throttle body off to take a better look at it and sure enough i was missing a 10mm that holds the fast idle valve to the t/b.

    So we pulled the throttle body off put a bolt in it and bum!!!! Problem fixed...

    After all of that time it did end up being a vacum leak, it certanly wansn't expecting it to be underneeth the t/b but I'm very glad i found it..

    So guys before you start replacing your IACV's check and make sure you don't have a vacum leak, if you don't have a vacum leak take off your fast idle valve shake it, if the inside rattles, it went bad!!

    As for a bolt missing out of my fast idle valve I have no clue how that happen because i never remember taking it off or messing with it at all..

    So once again here are the fixes to this problem.

    1. Low coolant level, air in the cooling system.
    2. Vacum Leak in the maifold t/b, injector area
    3. Fast Idle Valve went bad
    4. Dirty screen in IACV
    5. Bad IACV in this case thou the motor would make a quick 400rpm surge.**

    Hope this helps!
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    I third that opinion, the rear mount is active and has probably deteriorated to it's worst. If it doesn't make you totally crazy, leave it be.
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