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Good luck, Keith
START OF COMPILED POSSIBILITIES*****************
It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place.
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fast idle valve... I spent like 50 bucks on it at hparts.com. If you are looking at the motor (*standing in front of the car) look on the intakemanifold. The fastidle valve is on the front side of the IM on the right hand side. Its got two rubber hoses connected to it, and a copper top. Replace the whole assembly, and your car will be normal again.
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Finally with the intake pipe off of the t/b one of my friends noticed a 10mm bolt missing from the Fast idle valve underneeth the throttle body. I pulled the throttle body off to take a better look at it and sure enough i was missing a 10mm that holds the fast idle valve to the t/b.
So we pulled the throttle body off put a bolt in it and bum!!!! Problem fixed...
After all of that time it did end up being a vacum leak, it certanly wansn't expecting it to be underneeth the t/b but I'm very glad i found it..
So guys before you start replacing your IACV's check and make sure you don't have a vacum leak, if you don't have a vacum leak take off your fast idle valve shake it, if the inside rattles, it went bad!!
As for a bolt missing out of my fast idle valve I have no clue how that happen because i never remember taking it off or messing with it at all..
So once again here are the fixes to this problem.
1. Low coolant level, air in the cooling system.
2. Vacum Leak in the maifold t/b, injector area
3. Fast Idle Valve went bad
4. Dirty screen in IACV
5. Bad IACV in this case thou the motor would make a quick 400rpm surge.
Hope this helps guys and good luck!!
Thanks.
-Keith
Happy Turkey Day to all who are celebrating
I guess my first question is Why?
'93 Accord EX 5spds aren't exactly rare or expensive. CL has them running between $2-3k aound these parts. I believe when you change the transmission you will also have to change the pedal assembly (so you have a clutch), add the clutch hydraulic system, change the transmission and motor mounts, change the engine computer so it knows its working with a stick, I think the axles are different too.
Also, if you are going with this involved of a swap, I would probably go for the Honda factory service manual instead of the Haynes which leaves stuff out.
What things should I check before buying and What would be the best bargain for the vehicle?
thanks
Biks
- Exterior looks ok. But the cover just behind both rear wheels have picked up some rust. I guess this very common in Accords.
- Both front seats (leather) are badly worn out. I am not sure if it worth repairing it.
- On the right rear there are some scratches. Seems it hit something, but not very badly i guess.
thanks
Biks
http://www.edmunds.com/tmv/used/index.html
yoiu might want to see if you can find a forum related to buying a used car...
you should check everything.
well, my advice would be (if you were serious about the vehicle) to spend $50-80 and have an independant specializing in Hondas give it a look over. a pre-purchase inspection.
if the seller is confident in the condition of the vehicle, they will allow you to do that to determine more objectively the condition of the car.
there are so many things you want to make sure are properly maintained, there'd be a long list of items. however a good shop can look it over in 1/2 hr to 1hr and determine if there are brake issues, starting, suspension / steering, transmission, etc.
was it a single owner vehicle? do they have records of servicing? is it currently registered? carfax clean? did they have the timing belt / water pump replaced? if so when was it done? does it burn oil? if an A/T, when was the transmission last serviced? how many miles are on the brakes?
if you drive it and notice any slipping or harst shifts in the transmission, erratic idle, poor braking, knocking / pinging from the engine, etc - you may be buying a problem vehicle.
for me, engine condition / compression, transmission and condition of the brakes are very critical.
I just did a test ride and gathered few more information from the owner.
1. Timing belt - Never changed or repaired
2. it is has AT - Never serviced
I drove about 10-15 miles and found the ride was not smooth. I noticed low vibration while driving at 30-50 Mph. It was little smoother at 70Mph but still not very smooth.
I noticed very noticeable jerk when AT shifted from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. Also, when I shifted back and forth between P, R , N and D , with brakes applied, I noticed harsh shift and sometimes it took about a second or little less to change. Does that indicate problem with transmission??
The owner never changed the timing belt or water pump and never serviced transmission. So I guess I will need to change the timing belt as soon as I get it.
Also, I noticed it was much more noisy inside.
And what can we say about the condition of the vehicle ? good, fair or don't even bother looking at it ?
thanks
I have noticed at about 100-110k miles the front suspension needs to be rebuilt (tie rods, upper/lower ball joints, struts and mounts). My guess is given the car's lack of maintenance to date, that might be around the corner.
The transmission mount for the automatic can fail and can make a rough idle in the cabin.
personally, unless you like a project vehicle where you are competent enough to do all the work yourself, and even if you had all the parts cheap... i'd say even then it may not be worth it...
hondas are built pretty ruggedly, but there is regular maintenance which has to be done. you'd be inheriting all the maintenance they didn't do.
personally - i'd pass on it.
If I were you and going through all this trouble, at least get a JDM trans with a limited slip so there is some cool factor involved, or install an aftermarket limited slip while you have the trans out.
Eh or get a H22 vtec motor and a limited slip trans with that.
Its looks like a major transmission problem, I'm afraid. I have no idea what particular problem it is.
This morning the light was back on, and it was in a fixed gear again. However, this time it allowed me to manually shift into 1st, and all the other lights came on with their respective gears, even though D4 remained on as well.
I've changed it twice in the 40k that I've owned it, last was about 3k ago.
It was shipped to me that way, so it had to make it from the shipping place to my house, and then from my house to where I the new part got installed (thankfully mostly in 5th on the highway).
Honda manuals from that era are pretty hard to kill. If you change the fluid make sure you use the recomended motor oil in the right viscosity for your temperature region. Also, shifting slower helps if it is a syncro problem.
The car got a new thermostat last winter and it heats up pretty quick according to the gauge (and the heat from the vents). No driveability problems at all. Its got 5w30 in the motor and the trans, and seems unrelated to tires (which are new and properly inflated).
I thought about the parking brake might be dragging a little or a caliper stuck or something, but I think I would feel that more.
It would be much harder to detect dragging brakes, or bad bearings if they are in the rear. I would jack the car up, try to shake the wheel (grab the tire by the tread on each side and push and pull) and turn the wheel by hand and check for dragging or noises. This is what is meant by "kick the tires" because a simple kick can reveal problems sometimes.
I am not getting any bad noises or vibration out of the back, usually I get the whomp-whomp-whomp noise when they start to go. I didn't get any play in the wiggle test and it seems like they are spinning freely.
Maybe it was just a couple of bad tanks. I will run some injector cleaner in the next tank. I always get gas at the same BP station so I don't think its a quality issue. Its been about 2 years since I did a fuel filter, but I think I was the first person to ever change it so I can't see it taking that big a hit that fast. I also have a somewhat freer flowing exhaust right this second (hole in muffler) but still, I don't think that is the prob. We will see how this tank goes.
i would imagine that the winter fuel formulation and outside air temp, plus time getting the engine and transmission to temperature would have a decent impact on FE.
and the condition of the air filter and compartment? i ask because (and i don't know how this happened exactly) i found a good size chuck of styrofoam in my air filter compartment the last time i checked it.
Please help me out, :confuse: I'm a good mechanic for a home guy but I'm not a carb guy.
The only other carb issue I've had was with vacuum lines and that was a poor running condition not a non-start.
Will it start with start-up fluid in the carb? You can also try some carb cleaner.
Let me add my 2 cents to checking for gas in the carb. If there is gas in the bowl, and the accelerator pump is functioning, just move the throttle linkage or have someone in the car pump the gas peddle. You should be seeing gas squirting in and down the throat of the carb even when the car is not running.
Mrbill
But even if the carb is partly clogged up with gunk, or has a huge vacuum leak---even if it's cracked in half, the car should start---won't run worth a damn, but soooooo many carburators are replaced needlessly for "no start" issues....
I opened it up, and the board looked clean. All of the other symptoms were there though, so I ordered a reman TCM. That solved my problem, but now I has some odd new symptoms - revlovling around harsh, late shifting. The new D4 light isn't coming on at all now either, so I'm going to send it back for another. At least I know now that the innitial problem was indead the TCM.