Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

lastwraith · November 2006

This is stuff I found when I had that problem with my accord. Mine turned out to be a problem with the IACV (idle air control valve)

Good luck, Keith

START OF COMPILED POSSIBILITIES*****************

It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place.
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fast idle valve... I spent like 50 bucks on it at hparts.com. If you are looking at the motor (*standing in front of the car) look on the intakemanifold. The fastidle valve is on the front side of the IM on the right hand side. Its got two rubber hoses connected to it, and a copper top. Replace the whole assembly, and your car will be normal again.
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Finally with the intake pipe off of the t/b one of my friends noticed a 10mm bolt missing from the Fast idle valve underneeth the throttle body. I pulled the throttle body off to take a better look at it and sure enough i was missing a 10mm that holds the fast idle valve to the t/b.

So we pulled the throttle body off put a bolt in it and bum!!!! Problem fixed...

After all of that time it did end up being a vacum leak, it certanly wansn't expecting it to be underneeth the t/b but I'm very glad i found it..

So guys before you start replacing your IACV's check and make sure you don't have a vacum leak, if you don't have a vacum leak take off your fast idle valve shake it, if the inside rattles, it went bad!!

As for a bolt missing out of my fast idle valve I have no clue how that happen because i never remember taking it off or messing with it at all..

So once again here are the fixes to this problem.

1. Low coolant level, air in the cooling system.
2. Vacum Leak in the maifold t/b, injector area
3. Fast Idle Valve went bad
4. Dirty screen in IACV
5. Bad IACV in this case thou the motor would make a quick 400rpm surge.

Hope this helps guys and good luck!!

lastwraith · November 2006

Yup, raises the shift points as you said. Though basically the same can be accomplished by getting on the gas harder. I suppose someone might have a use for it but as far as I'm concerned it is pretty pointless.

2accords · November 2006

When i make a hard turn, there is a very odd, high pitch noise that sounds like it is coming from the steering column, any guesses?

ronaldom · November 2006

Elroy5, thank you for the advise, you are probably right, the board is smelling "amperes", I'm trying to find a electric repair expert (industrial instrumentation) to try to save my board. I'll send you the news. See u.

elroy5 · November 2006

Good luck.

elroy5 · November 2006

The one circled in Red is the IACV (idle air control valve), and the one circled in Yellow is the FITV (fast idle throttle valve).

markdfil · November 2006

I have a similiar issue--'Just bought a '93 Accord LX with only 72K. I'd rather wait until it gets 90K before changing that timing belt. Is it possible to see if there is oil on the timing belt without taking the engine apart?

Thanks.

elroy5 · November 2006

If you look at the picture above, the upper timing belt cover is between the valve cover, and the orange dipstick loop. You can see half of the belt, with the upper cover removed. If there was oil in there, you would probably see it dripping out from the bottom of the lower cover. Good luck.

lastwraith · November 2006

I'm assuming this picture is to rectify one of the tidbits of info I reposted that was written by someone who confused the two valves. I should've caught that and edited it, thanks for clearing things up for anyone who was confused by that elroy.

-Keith

Happy Turkey Day to all who are celebrating

elroy5 · November 2006

I would never fault anyone for giving their effort to help someone out. Just trying to clear things up. Happy Hollidays!

markdfil · November 2006

Thanks, elroy5. But I didn't see any picture above. Am I missing something? :confuse:

elroy5 · November 2006

It's on the previous page now. Page 24.

nd2chill · November 2006

I've got a question for anyone with a '93 Accord EX 5-spd: Is the transaxle ID Code H2A5 or H2U5? I'm planning on converting my automatic to a manual and I'm getting conflicting information on which transaxle I need. A local "auto recycling center" states that they have a H2A5 from a '93 EX, but the Haynes repair manual states the '93 EX had the H2U5 transaxle and the H2A5 was only on earlier EX's. I want to make sure I get the most improved design. Thanks!

lilengineerboy · November 2006

I'm planning on converting my automatic to a manual and I'm getting conflicting information on which transaxle I need.

I guess my first question is Why?
'93 Accord EX 5spds aren't exactly rare or expensive. CL has them running between $2-3k aound these parts. I believe when you change the transmission you will also have to change the pedal assembly (so you have a clutch), add the clutch hydraulic system, change the transmission and motor mounts, change the engine computer so it knows its working with a stick, I think the axles are different too.
Also, if you are going with this involved of a swap, I would probably go for the Honda factory service manual instead of the Haynes which leaves stuff out.

nd2chill · November 2006

I got the Accord from a friend for half of what it's worth, and the only thing I didn't like was that it was a slushbox. There are plenty in the junkyard to dig parts from, and I've already got everything except the transaxle. (I've got the only auto Accord around with a clutch pedal!) I guess to answer your question, I just love working on cars, and I view the swap as a challenge and a learning opportunity. So, anyone got a '93 EX 5-Spd that can answer my transaxle ID question?

biks · November 2006

I found a 1991 Honda Accord SE Sedan 4D on sale. It already has 148K miles on it.

What things should I check before buying and What would be the best bargain for the vehicle?

thanks
Biks

biks · November 2006

I have more details on the vehicle:

- Exterior looks ok. But the cover just behind both rear wheels have picked up some rust. I guess this very common in Accords.

- Both front seats (leather) are badly worn out. I am not sure if it worth repairing it.

- On the right rear there are some scratches. Seems it hit something, but not very badly i guess.

thanks
Biks

user777 · November 2006

the honda used car appraiser is a start as far as value, but the condition of the vehicle and record of maintenance is so important:
http://www.edmunds.com/tmv/used/index.html

yoiu might want to see if you can find a forum related to buying a used car...

you should check everything.

well, my advice would be (if you were serious about the vehicle) to spend $50-80 and have an independant specializing in Hondas give it a look over. a pre-purchase inspection.

if the seller is confident in the condition of the vehicle, they will allow you to do that to determine more objectively the condition of the car.

there are so many things you want to make sure are properly maintained, there'd be a long list of items. however a good shop can look it over in 1/2 hr to 1hr and determine if there are brake issues, starting, suspension / steering, transmission, etc.

was it a single owner vehicle? do they have records of servicing? is it currently registered? carfax clean? did they have the timing belt / water pump replaced? if so when was it done? does it burn oil? if an A/T, when was the transmission last serviced? how many miles are on the brakes?

if you drive it and notice any slipping or harst shifts in the transmission, erratic idle, poor braking, knocking / pinging from the engine, etc - you may be buying a problem vehicle.

for me, engine condition / compression, transmission and condition of the brakes are very critical.

biks · November 2006

Thanks user77

biks · November 2006

Hi There!

I just did a test ride and gathered few more information from the owner.

1. Timing belt - Never changed or repaired
2. it is has AT - Never serviced

I drove about 10-15 miles and found the ride was not smooth. I noticed low vibration while driving at 30-50 Mph. It was little smoother at 70Mph but still not very smooth.

I noticed very noticeable jerk when AT shifted from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. Also, when I shifted back and forth between P, R , N and D , with brakes applied, I noticed harsh shift and sometimes it took about a second or little less to change. Does that indicate problem with transmission??

The owner never changed the timing belt or water pump and never serviced transmission. So I guess I will need to change the timing belt as soon as I get it.

Also, I noticed it was much more noisy inside.

And what can we say about the condition of the vehicle ? good, fair or don't even bother looking at it ?

thanks

lilengineerboy · November 2006

Timing belt was due at 90k, if that breaks, the valves hit the pistons and it destroys the motor. That is about a $400-600 service (replace the waterpump, timing belt, etc). The transmission should be serviced more often then never. At this point, I would probably write off the transmission and run it until it dies.
I have noticed at about 100-110k miles the front suspension needs to be rebuilt (tie rods, upper/lower ball joints, struts and mounts). My guess is given the car's lack of maintenance to date, that might be around the corner.
The transmission mount for the automatic can fail and can make a rough idle in the cabin.

user777 · November 2006

well the timing belt and pump is going to set you back quite a bit - and with the other inevitable stuff...

personally, unless you like a project vehicle where you are competent enough to do all the work yourself, and even if you had all the parts cheap... i'd say even then it may not be worth it...

hondas are built pretty ruggedly, but there is regular maintenance which has to be done. you'd be inheriting all the maintenance they didn't do.

personally - i'd pass on it.

nd2chill · November 2006

I was reading the backlog and saw on posting #315 that you in fact have a '93 EX 5 Spd. Would you be willing to help me find out which transaxle you have so I can get the correct one? Thank you.

lilengineerboy · November 2006

I would be happy to take a look. Do you know where it is stamped? I actually meant to look when I changed the oil over the weekend, I totally forgot.

nd2chill · November 2006

I appreciate it. You're not the only one that thinks I'm nuts for doing this. The transmission ID code should be stamped on the front of the transmission where it bolts to the block. I believe there is just a little UPC-type label on it. Thanks again.

jaynewberry · November 2006

Hey guys, I am new here and wondered if anyone can help with a problem I have. I have got a 93 Accord (5 speed Manual) and I am getting a knocking / juddering sound when driving, but it doesn't happen all the time. It sounds almost like a flat tire, and only happens when I am driving at about 30+ miles per hour. It also only occurs when I have my foot on the gas, and then all of a sudden a knocking sound will kick in. When I let my foot off, it stops. As I say it doesn't happen all of the time, and over a period of time, the knocking get's worse. Anybody had this problem before?

Mr_Shiftright · November 2006

Try this. In an empty parking lot, make tight circles to the left 3-4 times, then stop, and make tight circles to the right 3-4 times. Does the knock appear then?

lilengineerboy · November 2006

My '93 Honda Accord EX 5spd trans says H2U5 and its mated to an F22A6.
If I were you and going through all this trouble, at least get a JDM trans with a limited slip so there is some cool factor involved, or install an aftermarket limited slip while you have the trans out.
Eh or get a H22 vtec motor and a limited slip trans with that.

nd2chill · November 2006

I knew it was the H2U5! The H2A5's gotta be for the '91/'92 EX. My local Honda/Acura specialty recycler (S&M Import in Omaha) tried to convince me that the H2A5 they have in stock was from a '93 EX. I'm sure it's an honest mistake; I've bought from them before with no problems. I'll look into a JDM trans. I assume that the domestic H2U5 doesn't have a limited slip diff. Thanks again, and let me know if you need assistance with anything.

gotdurt · November 2006

I have a 92 Accord LX automatic that won't shift out of 2nd gear when in drive (up or down). It started off fine this morning, but before I got out of the neighborhood, I noticed it wouldn't up-shift, then when I let of the gas, it didn't downshift. Came to a stop, idled fine (TC dissengaged properly), but when I accelerated from a stop, still in 2nd. Shifting manually made no difference. Then I stopped, put it in park, turned off the ignition, restarted, no change. Park, reverse and neutral are all fine. Soloniod? Computer? I'm more familiar with manual trannies, so I'm stumped.

thegraduate · November 2006

Is the "D4" indicator blinking on the dash?

Its looks like a major transmission problem, I'm afraid. I have no idea what particular problem it is.

gotdurt · November 2006

No flashing D4 light. I haven't had a chance to check the codes, I'll do that when I get home tonight. I had the exact same symptoms on a '97 Camaro, ended up being a shift solenoid... but, that was a toatally different vehicle, obviously. I've also heard of vehicles doing this when entering "limp mode", a result of another problem.

elroy5 · November 2006

If the D4 light was on when it shouldn't be (shift lever in park), the TCU would be the problem. If not, try to get the codes, if any are stored. Shift solenoids can be cleaned out, if you want to try that. Has the fluid ever been changed?

gotdurt · November 2006

I agree on the TCU. Last night I disconnected the battery, and everything went back to normal; tranny shifted through all gears fine, so I'm guessing not likely anything internal. I only drove it a couple of miles though.

This morning the light was back on, and it was in a fixed gear again. However, this time it allowed me to manually shift into 1st, and all the other lights came on with their respective gears, even though D4 remained on as well.

I've changed it twice in the 40k that I've owned it, last was about 3k ago.

elroy5 · November 2006

Yep, I think your TCU is kaput. You can find out for sure by opening it up (take the cover off), and look inside. There will probably be black spots on the boards where the capacitors have leaked on them. The dealer wants about $500 for a new one, so I would try to find a used one or something else. Good luck.

bjggross · December 2006

I have a 93 Honda Accord w/manual transmission. After car is warmed up (15 minutes) I hear a grinding sound whenever I shift into or out of 2nd gear. Is the transmission going or is there a simple explanation? I had a mechanic check the tranny and he couldn't give me an explanation.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2006

grinding gears?...those are worn synchros.

lilengineerboy · December 2006

I was having a lot of trouble shifting when the clutch cylinder went out. I had to try to rev match as well as I could, but I was having the issue in all gears.
It was shipped to me that way, so it had to make it from the shipping place to my house, and then from my house to where I the new part got installed (thankfully mostly in 5th on the highway).
Honda manuals from that era are pretty hard to kill. If you change the fluid make sure you use the recomended motor oil in the right viscosity for your temperature region. Also, shifting slower helps if it is a syncro problem.

lilengineerboy · December 2006

So the temps went from being 50 degrees or better to being 40 degrees or less (usually less, I think its been in the 20s this week) and my fuel economy went in the pooper. It fell from about 32 to maybe 26 or so. Is this just the nature of winter or is something not working?
The car got a new thermostat last winter and it heats up pretty quick according to the gauge (and the heat from the vents). No driveability problems at all. Its got 5w30 in the motor and the trans, and seems unrelated to tires (which are new and properly inflated).
I thought about the parking brake might be dragging a little or a caliper stuck or something, but I think I would feel that more.

thegraduate · December 2006

I think it has more to do with the type of fuel mixture going into your car in the wintertime. The winter fuel mixtures lower economy, although I'm not sure it would go down a whopping 6MPG if nothing has changed in your driving style.

tom1sharon2 · December 2006

Is your Honda an automatic or manual?

elroy5 · December 2006

I thought about the parking brake might be dragging a little or a caliper stuck or something, but I think I would feel that more.
It would be much harder to detect dragging brakes, or bad bearings if they are in the rear. I would jack the car up, try to shake the wheel (grab the tire by the tread on each side and push and pull) and turn the wheel by hand and check for dragging or noises. This is what is meant by "kick the tires" because a simple kick can reveal problems sometimes.

lilengineerboy · December 2006

Yeah the front bearings are new-ish.
I am not getting any bad noises or vibration out of the back, usually I get the whomp-whomp-whomp noise when they start to go. I didn't get any play in the wiggle test and it seems like they are spinning freely.
Maybe it was just a couple of bad tanks. I will run some injector cleaner in the next tank. I always get gas at the same BP station so I don't think its a quality issue. Its been about 2 years since I did a fuel filter, but I think I was the first person to ever change it so I can't see it taking that big a hit that fast. I also have a somewhat freer flowing exhaust right this second (hole in muffler) but still, I don't think that is the prob. We will see how this tank goes.

user777 · December 2006

if you change the back-pressure on the engine, because of a restriction or because of a hole in the exhaust, i would imagine it would change the fuel efficiency of the engine.

i would imagine that the winter fuel formulation and outside air temp, plus time getting the engine and transmission to temperature would have a decent impact on FE.

and the condition of the air filter and compartment? i ask because (and i don't know how this happened exactly) i found a good size chuck of styrofoam in my air filter compartment the last time i checked it.

psalm10103 · December 2006

I'll make this short, I have a 1984 carberated 4 cyl automatic. I have good compression good spark and good fuel, the car ran fine at first now the tank got low and it started running funny. I put gas in it and checked the filters and everything looks good. But now it wont start.
Please help me out, :confuse: I'm a good mechanic for a home guy but I'm not a carb guy.

lilengineerboy · December 2006

Is it getting fuel still? Over 20 years a lot of crud can accumulate at the bottom of the tank (dirt, dust, debris, corrosion etc)and when the fuel gets low, that stuff gets sucked into the fuel line. Ideally, this will all get caught in the filter and then you just change the filter. It could also get into the carb and clog the jet.
The only other carb issue I've had was with vacuum lines and that was a poor running condition not a non-start.
Will it start with start-up fluid in the carb? You can also try some carb cleaner.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2006

If it simply cranks and cranks but doesn't start, it's not a carburator problem. You are barking up the wrong tree there. It could be something attached to the carburator, like an inline fuel filter or the choke flap on top, but not internal. A car might run like hell with a clogged up or malfunctioning carburator, but it will start with even a few dribbles of gas. If you see gas squirting in the carb, then it's not the carb.

mrbill1957 · December 2006

If you see gas squirting in the carb, then it's not the carb.
Let me add my 2 cents to checking for gas in the carb. If there is gas in the bowl, and the accelerator pump is functioning, just move the throttle linkage or have someone in the car pump the gas peddle. You should be seeing gas squirting in and down the throat of the carb even when the car is not running.

Mrbill

Mr_Shiftright · December 2006

That's right.

But even if the carb is partly clogged up with gunk, or has a huge vacuum leak---even if it's cracked in half, the car should start---won't run worth a damn, but soooooo many carburators are replaced needlessly for "no start" issues....

gotdurt · December 2006

Update:

I opened it up, and the board looked clean. All of the other symptoms were there though, so I ordered a reman TCM. That solved my problem, but now I has some odd new symptoms - revlovling around harsh, late shifting. The new D4 light isn't coming on at all now either, so I'm going to send it back for another. At least I know now that the innitial problem was indead the TCM.

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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