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Okay forget THAT suggestion!
Sorry.
If you have power loss AT a certain rpm but neither above or below, I'd have to suspect something ignition or timing related...but that's a tough one...I'll have to ponder this...
Any ideas on what it could be?
Don
If there is a lot of rust on the drums there should be two holes on the drums just like the rotors to remove with a pair of bolts. For the rear brakes you will need a pair of dykes to remove the smaller springs. A Spring removing/installing tool for the larger springs ( any auto parts store or SEARS). You could use the dykes to remove the shoe retaining springs or purchase the tool for this as well.
Second, the heater blower motor does not function at present? The first thought of course is the motor itself, yet in Feb of 2004 the blower motor was replaced with a "new" blower motor that I have the receipt for from a local garage? It seems very odd for the motor to go out again in less than 1 year. Is there any sequence of steps that I can take to issolate if it is indeed the motor? Perhaps it is just a relay or a fuse that I can't see as being burn out? I am not sure what fuse sequence to check, the potential of a relay, or really even how to issolate the motor itself to 12v to see if the motor is gone.
Any help people would like to give with this I would be greatly appreciative. I have owned many Toyota's (2 presently), and I bought this car as a back and fourth to school car (44 years old going back to med school), so really just looking to make the car sound for intown driving!
Thanks guys, this forum is great!
Mike711
http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinthewest/autotips/9091accordcomprblems.html
i'm sure you can find more details by googling with more specificity.
for example, how to eek the stored codes out of the system google:
+accord +"S light" +steady +transmission
Sbridgett: You might want to know how to trip the check engine light to spit out the error codes also.
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12463
The pictures show the connector and the instructions tell you what you need to know to get the Check Engine Light to flash out the error codes. Then, a quick visit to any number of sites online (the cybertrails one being a good one) should pop up a chart detailing what each code means in plain english so you can narrow the problem.
The other way to get the codes is to just pull up the passenger side carpet and read the flashing of the LEDs on the TCM and ECU (those two little metal boxes) when you turn the key in the ignition. There is an LED on each unit that will flash out codes that correspond to a list (one list of codes for each).
good luck
While this is very simple for most cars, in the case of the 90-95 Accords, I definitely recommend having a shop manual (even a Haynes or Chiltons is better than nothing)on the car being worked on.
While you are in there, pay attention to the tie rod ends, the sway bar end links, and the upper and lower ball joints. Since you are likely going to need a wheel alignment anyway, you might want to consider replacing some of these components at the same time.
according to what i know, as soon as the vehicle is turned on about a minute afterwards the rpm rises and then lowers repeatedly.
the idle control valve has already been replaced but the problem still occurs. also the engine was replaced, used and shipped from japan (not rebuilt). it is said that the engine is in good shape.
so pretty much what i'm looking for is what else could cause the vehicle to have this problem?
thank you.
still on, engine will crank but not start. If the
check engine light goes out while D4 is flashing
the engine will start but the transmission is in
high gear not first when you take off. Any ideas?
Have already changed TCU with a good unit.
To have it repaired was I believe in the 400 range...the parts were relatively cheap but the labor of removing the center console was expensive.
Good luck
Mike
Symptoms: Doesn't start.. it tries to crank but didn't start.
What I did: took the car to walmart, had battery replaced after testing the old battery. It worked fine for 3 weeks and didn't start again.
This time I took it to a Mobile Gas station repair shed. The mechanic said battery is dead !! suggested me to replace battery. He said there is no problem with starter/alternator. Then it worked fine with new interstate battery for another 3 weeks and is not starting again (Midwest winter).
I had to give up the Honda and drive my new CAMRY for last 2 months. I didn't get chance to take the honda to repair.
Now that the Winter is almost over, I tried to jump start the honda... it make cranking noise, but doesn't start.
What shd I do ?(take it to dealer ? )
I don't know how much to trust the local mechanics..
Pls advise....
2. If you haven't replaced the main relay I would think that might be suspect. If the car is cranking, the battery is okay. The main relay energizes the fuel pump, and is prone to failure. In Hondas in my life that have had a "no-start" condition, this has been the issue for 4 of the 5, and the 5th had a bad distributor.
When you go to start the car, if you turn to the ON but not CRANK position, you should here it click and then hear the fuel pump building pressure. If you don't, I would think that is the culprit. You can chekc by measureing to see if the fuel pump is getting voltage at that stage. The repair manual will explain how.
3. You should really invest the $15 and get the repair manual for the car. It will tell you how to check the main relay, and replace it if it is the problem. Even if you don't do any work yourself, it may also help you talk to a mechanic.
Good luck, and as they say, YMMV.
I bought a 93 accord EX from a girl that took little or no care of it at all. My intentions for this car is to get it back to peak performance. It has taken a while and I am quite close. When I first got the car it hadn't been cranked in over a year. I was able to jump it and get it to my house which was a little under a mile away. I noticed right away that the check engine light was on and that it wouldn't go past 3500 rpms in drive, neutral, park or whatever. I got the car home and did the immediate things such as changing the oil and water and fuel and fuel filter and oil filter and air filter and replaced the battery and still couldn't get the thing to go past 3500 rpms, was the strangest thing. I used the jumper and got the codes from the check engine light. it was 4 pause 8 pause 4 and it was continued so it was either 4 and 8 or 48 and it made sense that it was 48 and so I changed the o2 sensor. Still wouldn't go past 3500 rpms. A friend told me that it was the cat, so I took it off and replaced it and still won't go past 3500 rpm. Finally I thought of the spark plug wires, the distributor and the button and replaced them all and it works fine about 7 of 10 cranks. Sometimes it will be working fine and the check engine light will all of a sudden come on and it won't go past 3500 rpm. Another friend told me that it was the car's ground and that I needed to check the resistance. Well I didn't think that was it so I kinda blew that off, but just now while I was installing a radar detector (hardwiring it) I noticed that I couldn't get a ground inside the car. I took the radar out and tested it at the battery and it worked fine. I went back in and checked power at the fuse box and that was fine. But I can't get a -12v ground... WTF? The only thing that I can think that will help with this is that the front left and right quarter panels are damaged and the corner lights were broken. I have no problems with any of the lights except for at the front right of the car and I can't get them to work. The flasher on the inside blinks all the time and a new one does the same. The wires do not look damaged though? Does anyone have any idea about this??? Please help me if you do. I want to get this thing fixed so bad and I'm so close.
Thanks
I don't know what you mean by the flasher on the inside blinks. Can you explain?
was the vehicle in an accident? seems like something is messed up with the steering column mounted switches and perhaps more.
did you verify all fuses and relays in all fuse / relay recepticles are properly inserted?
Also, the clutch level is low and the dealer says they just want to watch it to make sure the clutch isn't going out. The car still has its original clutch so I am not surprised, but is $850 a lot to have it replaced?
I've had this car 10 years and have put 140k of the 180k on it, but don't want to put too much $$$ into it-at least more than it is worth.
I would appreciate your advice. thanks
As for the timing belt, I'd be more concerned with mileage wear than age wear---the only exception would be if you could see oil on the timing belt. that's not good.
As for the check engine light (CEL), you need to get a code from the car. Take it in to Auto Zone or wherever and have them pull it for free or just jump the connector on the passenger side and read out the codes on the CEL.
1 its an intermittent problem ive got, sometimes happens
sometimes not and a engine restart usually clears it!
2 nasty screach noise from engine bay(sounds like bust water pump bearing but its not)
3 only happens at low speed or tick over!!
4 idle speed goes erratic to the point of stalling
5 engine check light comes on when the noise gets bad!
6 my cars an automatic
havnt done the engine diagnostic code stuff yet to see if anything is wrong there.
as i say if i stop the car and restart it mostly goes away
and may or may not happen again on that journey
any body out there got any clues for me ???
distribitor ?? gear box? ecu? ect??
car has 104k miles and apprt from this is sound
regards Kevin in Edinburgh
So my brother, who works in an auto parts store, asked a mechanic he knows about it (the guy specializes in Hondas). Right away the mechanic said it was probably a bad distributor, he said that the distributors in these Accords start siezing and not spinning smoothly, and that is what's causing the problem. So I bought a distributor from a junk yard for $75, and swapped it out for my old distributor. Sure enough, when I tried to spin my old distributor by the sproket on the end of the shaft, the shaft totally resisted and creaked around and I could feel some soft of resistance. It wasn't spinning smoothly, like a good distributor should.
So I disassemlbed the old distributor, and I found that the sealed ball bearing assembly around the shaft in the distributor was seriously rusted out; some of the ball bearings were very rusted, and the retainer ring that is supposed to hold the ball bearings in place was pretty much totally disintegrated. That's why the distributor wasn't spinning correctly.
So I'd say take your distributor out and try to turn the shaft. If it isn't spinning smoothly, there's your problem -- if it is spinning smoothly, put it back in and move onto the next possibility.
Note to everyone -- these ball bearings are NOT in the distributor cap, so replacing the cap will not fix this problem. Neither will replacing the plugs, wires, rotor, etc. Just because you replaced those parts doesn't mean that the distributor works!
Note -- I have pictures of the rusted out ball bearing assembly, if anyone is intersted.
thanks for the reply as to my screaching noise!
yep looks like you could be right as i ve sussed this out
too.
on closer inspection and checking the ecl codes it surely is the distributor at fault.any chance you can email the pics that youve avaiable?
my email address is kevsabo@blueyonder.co.uk
would appreciate it if you can
thanks again
regards Kev in edinburgh