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Comments
that's not great advice, but seems like it might get you further in sleuthing a fix.
some googling turned up:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/faqs/l/bl066e.htm
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html
I have anohter question about transmission. I asked the mechanic about flushing the trans, he told me if i had the history of trans flushes. i said no. My trans has been working for 133 000 miles no problem, no leaks. He advised me not to flush it because it can create trouble.... Is that true?
i tend to agree with elroy5 w.r.t. transmission drain and replace. this is something you can do yourself if you have ramps. i think the key thing is use Honda fluids as elroy points out.
this is going to sound conflicted, but if you've had the transmission regularly serviced at on honda dealership (say every 30K), and if they are using a machine which automates the process, i don't think that sort of "flushing" is going to cause problems...
if however, the transmission has never been a problem, and has never been serviced in this manner, i'm thinking the drain and replace 3 times is the more conservative thing to do.
anyway, your advice is all good. the person didn't realize perhaps you need to drain and refill the unit with fluid 3 times (yes using the ramps at home) to get most of the old fluid out of the unit as you've explained before.
So you think the typical dealer calls the machine (that just uses the car's pump) a flush? Dang, that's no better than the drain and fill you propose, except it's automated and expensive, right? :shades:
The machine that uses the transmission's own pump will do a better job, because it will get all the old fluid out (not just dilute it). Unless the fluid is really dirty, this extra expense is not necessary, and the 3 change method will do, IMO. The "power flush" is not recommended by some techs because it can force large particles from the bottom of the transmission up into very close tolerance areas, where they could become trapped and clog things up.
I will get the ramps and do it. What you are telling about particles in areas which can get clogged is exactly what the mecahinc told me. I guess I can do the flush by myself. I will use the Trans liquid you told me.
Thanks
Most of all, be careful, and take your time. The engine will be hot. Good luck
I guess I have to buy the ATF-Z1 at a honda dealer, isn't ? I just called one and it is 6.96 per qt.... Is that all right?
Gonna do this next weekend.
http://www.handaaccessories.com/accmaint01.html
even with shipping, i think you should be able to do a bit better ordering it from here.
that was 2 years ago. just two years ago, couldn't you buy your house for a truck-load less money?
ok, contact information is on the receipt, so the original poster can call and find out how much it costs today at that dealership BEFORE asking some other dealer in his area to match it.
i trust the H+A pricing myself.
12:20 Am just finished the transmission task. To my surprise, i wanted to replace the thermostast, and when i took the hose and screws off....voila...no thermostast installed.. been driving my car for 5 yrs with no thersmostas... i gotta love this honda.
Roy, I replaced the trans fluid three times. the drain was awful, the fluid was black and the magnet on the drain bolt was all covered with tiny pieces of metallic matter. Second drain the liquid was more clear and the thrird the fluid looked pretty red(as the new one)..So, I guess it has good new fluid now. The only thing was, i Put my car on stands off the floor and I did the running and testing between changes on the stands from 1 - 40 mph and reverse. no problem.
I noticed though on the stands the speed didn;t go up with rpm as it did on regular driving. RPM went over 2000 for the transmission to kick in.
out of curiosity, any idea of why this happens? tires off the ground, acceleration-speed behaves different to hte acc-speed (from 1- 55) regular driving.
my 'enterprise' is ready to conquer the North(Miami- Montreal)...
Thanks for your advice!!
That was probably hurting your gas mileage. The engine takes much longer to warm up with no thermostat.
tires off the ground, acceleration-speed behaves different to hte acc-speed (from 1- 55) regular driving.
Don't know about that one, never tried that wheels off the ground thing. The transmission shifted fine afterwards (on the ground) right?
my 'enterprise' is ready to conquer the North(Miami- Montreal)...
Hope you have a few days for that trip. Good luck, and many miles of Happy Hondaing to you.
anyway with it almost practically pink/red, you should now notice some improved shift quality.
how many bottles of ATF did it ultimately take for the whole process?
eventhough the car was on stands, i ran it from 1-4 speed and reverse several times. ANd paid attention to the color of the fluid during the several drains. the last one had pretty much the same color as the new fluid.
user777 i used pretty much the 9 qts. Less than 8 oz left in the last qt. I kept it just in case after the fluid settles down down,I might need to ad some more.
Anohter curiosity, since i instaled the thermostat, i had to do the drain adn refill of the cooling system. Eventhough it takes more than a gallon to do the whole refill, the autoparts stores sell the antifreeze by gallons. So they make you buy two gallons, eventhough you are gonna used 1 and 1/4 or less.
yes elroy, my hondy runs smoother now. I can hardly feel the tran kicking in. 4th speed reached at 40 mph. i have to be careful now , i just step on the gas pedal and rpm goes up pretty quick....he is a fighter!!!
guys thanks again for this forum. speaking of this, i was looking for some hints about water in the trunk, and a user here sent me to a 'honda only forum' telling me the answer was there....not exactly..this is the best honda forum i have found
http://techauto.bravehost.com/overheating.html
1. car noticeably shakes around 1800rpm to about 3000rpm, mainly in 2nd and 3rd gear. more noticeable when accelerating hard. however, if i stay on that gear and in that rpm range, it will go away. i ruled out axles/half shafts and think it's possibly the EGR ports clogged. i want to make sure before i spend for this....any thoughts?
2. my car idles low after warmed up. i'd say around 600rpm. it gets lower when i use any power accesories, like sunroof or windows. anything wrong with this?
3. how can i find an OEM alarm key fob. my car is fitted with the dealer installed honda oem security system. apparently, it is so rare, that my dealer has no info on this. i know it works, as the light blinks, but it is in valet mode as i do not have the key fob to activate it. any ideas???
Thanks!
Do you mean o-rings (little rubber circles)? If so, these go under the rocker arm assembly. These are a lot more difficult to change. When you put the little chrome nuts on the valve cover, be careful not to over tighten them. The little studs are easy to break off. The torque for the little nuts is only 7-lb.ft. I suggest using a nut-driver, or 1/4" drive socket-driver with a socket to tighten them. Using something larger (like a ratchet) you would be more likely to snap the studs off, which would create a big problem (replacing stud bolts). If oil is getting into the spark plug tubes it will likely be necessary to change the o-rings, unfortunately. Good luck
when accessories come on, alternator should go into higher output mode, and ECU signal should boost idle via EACV
If idle is too slow, either you've got a vacuum leak, eacv is sticking, or somehow it's not getting the right input from the ecu. The EACV has a filter screen that can be cleaned with solvent, and the whole valve can be easily washed out with solvent if it's sticking. If you're getting a misfire under load, that could also be a vaccum leak.
You should run a compression test as well as a test for vacuum leaks.
Only one problem though it might happen to anyone of you. brake lights were on even with the engine off. there is a small flexible plastic attached to the brake pedal which opens and closes a small switch. in my car it fell off, so i replace with a piece of plastic for the rest of the trip. If that happens and you don;t see it right away it will drain your battery and it can be a pain in the neck.
cheers
Thank You,
Cary