Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

nd2chill · January 2006

I've got a '93 accord and when I take it out for the first time of the day, after 13 miles it loses all power below 3000 rpm. If I shut it off and then turn it back on, same thing. If I leave it for a day, I can drive it another 13 miles and then no power below 3000 again. I had a mechanic check it who, of course, couldn't duplicate problem. It's an automatic if that matters. I'm thinking a sensor or computer issue. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2006

clogged catalytic converter? Have you tried a catalytic by-pass pipe installed by a muffler shop?

nd2chill · January 2006

Thanks for the tip. Why would I still have power above 3000 rpm? Thanks again!

Mr_Shiftright · January 2006

Oh, I misread your post...I thought power died at 3,000.

Okay forget THAT suggestion!

Sorry.

If you have power loss AT a certain rpm but neither above or below, I'd have to suspect something ignition or timing related...but that's a tough one...I'll have to ponder this...

nd2chill · January 2006

After a cold start it'll go about 13 miles and then loses all power below 3000 rpm. I can still get power above 3000. It seems like I have to let the engine rest for up to a day to get power out of the lower rpm band. I know what you mean about ponder. I'm no goofball but this has me perplexed.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2006

tell you what...post this in "Technical Questions" and make a call for to give it a try.

nd2chill · January 2006

I can't find the Technical Questions Forum. Is it under Honda Accord or is it more general? Thanks.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2006

Technical Questions

don1701 · January 2006

My son has a '90 Honda Accord LX. After he got his after market radio stolen when he turns on the headlights the dash lights don't work and he doesn't have any rear running lights and the electric antenna doesn't work. He has to pull it up by hand. He said he checked all the fuses and none were blown. We live 400 miles apart so I can't go see the car myself.
Any ideas on what it could be?

Don

lostcount · January 2006

Unsure if this will help, but have been pondering your quandry since reading it. Could there be something with the Vtec componentry? I am unsure if this generation of accord had it. My other thought was something to do with variable intake manifold componentry - again, unsure of this year's engine content, but could be a culprit??? Nonetheless, Just some thoughts...

sbridgett · January 2006

The engine light came on today in my 1992 Accord, which has 175K miles on it. The car seems to be running fine and normal, no change in anything. The light also came on about a month ago and then went off after a couple of days. I have researched error codes and tried to get one to display when this happened before, but was unsuccessful. Should I go to a repair shop and prepare for a big bill and a possible ripoff? Or can I figure out part of this out myself? Signed, Stumped Female

xmf314 · January 2006

If you are replacing the front pads you'll need a set of metric sockets and a ratchet, to remove the calipers. A caliper compressing tool to compress the caliper piston (available at any auto parts store or SEARS). For removal of the rotors there are two types. If your accord has floating rotors, they will simply pull off. If there is a lot of rust, there should be two threaded holes on the rotor's hub area directly across from each other. If I remember right they are 10mm x 1.25 bolts to loosen the rotors. If they are pressed on rotors you will need a slide hammer, but only to replace them. Most shops can turn pressed on rotors with the spindles as a unit. If you are replacing them and have to remove them with a slide hammer re careful not to rip apart the wheel bearing. If it does come apart inspect the bearings and if good add lube and reinstall.

If there is a lot of rust on the drums there should be two holes on the drums just like the rotors to remove with a pair of bolts. For the rear brakes you will need a pair of dykes to remove the smaller springs. A Spring removing/installing tool for the larger springs ( any auto parts store or SEARS). You could use the dykes to remove the shoe retaining springs or purchase the tool for this as well.

haefr · January 2006

Most autoparts stores such as Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. will plug a scan tool into the OBD-II (second generation On-Board Diagnostics - the means by which the car's computers "talk" to service techs) connector and read the code for you as a free service. They can then look up the possibilities based on any code(s) found. While a tech may still have to resort to some old fashioned sleuthing, the OBD-II should narrow it down considerably. It would be up to you to decide where you'd want to have any indicated repair work done.

mike711 · January 2006

I have just bought, cheap! A 91 Accord LX, with two issues I would greatly appreciate any help possible. First the "S" (sports mode transmission) light comes on a stays on (i.e. it does not blink, and this is the case if I toggle back & forth between the "normal" and "sort mode" switch on the shifter), when this happens the car does not shift out of 2nd gear. The odd thing is that when you turn the car off, it appears to reset (for awhile) and the "s" light goes out and the transmission resumes shifting (albeit hard like most Hondas of this generation) normally, but the "s" light on condition will then resume after 5 to 15 miles?

Second, the heater blower motor does not function at present? The first thought of course is the motor itself, yet in Feb of 2004 the blower motor was replaced with a "new" blower motor that I have the receipt for from a local garage? It seems very odd for the motor to go out again in less than 1 year. Is there any sequence of steps that I can take to issolate if it is indeed the motor? Perhaps it is just a relay or a fuse that I can't see as being burn out? I am not sure what fuse sequence to check, the potential of a relay, or really even how to issolate the motor itself to 12v to see if the motor is gone.

Any help people would like to give with this I would be greatly appreciative. I have owned many Toyota's (2 presently), and I bought this car as a back and fourth to school car (44 years old going back to med school), so really just looking to make the car sound for intown driving!

Thanks guys, this forum is great!

Mike711

user777 · January 2006

googling turned this up:
http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinthewest/autotips/9091accordcomprblems.html

i'm sure you can find more details by googling with more specificity.

for example, how to eek the stored codes out of the system google:
+accord +"S light" +steady +transmission

mike711 · January 2006

Thanks for looking that up, it at least arms with with some things I can do prior to taking my car to Honda and having them tell me to take it to a transmission shop, who does not really want to do anything but rebuild to transmission. I am greatful!

lastwraith · February 2006

OBD-II they have at the chain places, but remember she has a '92 Accord. Solid advice though otherwise. Would've posted it myself already had the forums not been read-only during maintenance

Sbridgett: You might want to know how to trip the check engine light to spit out the error codes also.
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12463

The pictures show the connector and the instructions tell you what you need to know to get the Check Engine Light to flash out the error codes. Then, a quick visit to any number of sites online (the cybertrails one being a good one) should pop up a chart detailing what each code means in plain english so you can narrow the problem.

The other way to get the codes is to just pull up the passenger side carpet and read the flashing of the LEDs on the TCM and ECU (those two little metal boxes) when you turn the key in the ignition. There is an LED on each unit that will flash out codes that correspond to a list (one list of codes for each).

good luck

jajomo · February 2006

my 1993 honda accord also experiences random loss of power on longer trips, but otherwise the engine operates normally. this started after replacement of spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. the repair shop has not found the specific problem. if you or anyone else have any ideas let me know...jajomo

sbridgett · February 2006

Thank you so much for the advice and the link to the very easy to understand directions! This message board rocks! :shades:

jugghead · February 2006

I have a 92 honda accord and it isn't getting any fire. I have replaced the distributor, coil, and spark plugs. Recently I had the igintion switch replaced and it ran fine for a week and then it shut down. So I had the ignition module tested and they say it was bad. So that is why I replaced the whole distributor. After replacing the distributor it ran for about 10 miles and died again. So we took the distributor back and got another new one and also a new coil. But still no fire. We have checked the wiring under the hood. I am just wondering if maybe something they did to replace the igintion switch may have something to do with it not getting fire? Thanks

dad7x · February 2006

I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM CHANGED DISTRIBUTOR AND AFTER DRIVING ABOUT 1 HOUR IT DONE IT AGAIN NO FIRE IF YOU FIND OUT WHAT PROBLEM IS PLEASE LET ME KNOW

lilengineerboy · February 2006

The front rotors are a bit of a chore. I ended up removing the whole upright, then using an air hammer on the bolts on the back to get the press fit rotors off. For reference, on most cars, you just remove the caliper and the rotor will slide off. On the Honda, you have to undo the axle nut, slide the spindle though the hub.
While this is very simple for most cars, in the case of the 90-95 Accords, I definitely recommend having a shop manual (even a Haynes or Chiltons is better than nothing)on the car being worked on.
While you are in there, pay attention to the tie rod ends, the sway bar end links, and the upper and lower ball joints. Since you are likely going to need a wheel alignment anyway, you might want to consider replacing some of these components at the same time.

wchase44 · February 2006

i disconnected my battery on my 91 accord lx and now when i try to reconnect the battery cables my car begins to honk. Is there some sort of security feature i am unaware of ???

waffletown · February 2006

fuel injection/2.2 engine/4 cylinder

according to what i know, as soon as the vehicle is turned on about a minute afterwards the rpm rises and then lowers repeatedly.

the idle control valve has already been replaced but the problem still occurs. also the engine was replaced, used and shipped from japan (not rebuilt). it is said that the engine is in good shape.

so pretty much what i'm looking for is what else could cause the vehicle to have this problem?

thank you.

scott56 · February 2006

Turn key on, D4 flashing with check engine light
still on, engine will crank but not start. If the
check engine light goes out while D4 is flashing
the engine will start but the transmission is in
high gear not first when you take off. Any ideas?
Have already changed TCU with a good unit.

ste05bball · February 2006

ok i have a 90 accord coupe with a 91 engine thats already had a swap before i got it and it runs great but the body and suspension is in rough shape...now i bought a 92 honda accord lx thats stock...the thing is..the 92 has a coil on the distributor and the 91 doesnt...whats the procedure in swapping them out....thanks steve

thegraduate · February 2006

When D4 is flashing, there is a significant transmission problem, as stated in all Honda owners manuals (even our Odyssey was like that). Good luck.

thegraduate · February 2006

No, no security system was offered in Accord LXs until at least 2003. Sounds like a fuse or bad wiring? (just a guess)

honda9393 · February 2006

This is my first post on the Edmunds board so I hope this goes through. I had a similar problem with my 93 Accord. I took it to my mechanic (who I trust and have had very good luck with). He said it was the the cable and explained it by comparing it to a bike brake cable. They get worn and begin to fray which makes it hard to move the shifter (I'm assuming you have an automatic like mine). He said that it needs to be fixed because if it breaks and you are in drive you can't shift to park and take the key out of the ignition...somewhat of a safety concern as well I suppose.
To have it repaired was I believe in the 400 range...the parts were relatively cheap but the labor of removing the center console was expensive.

Good luck

Mike

machas · February 2006

Mil: 130K miles
Symptoms: Doesn't start.. it tries to crank but didn't start.

What I did: took the car to walmart, had battery replaced after testing the old battery. It worked fine for 3 weeks and didn't start again.

This time I took it to a Mobile Gas station repair shed. The mechanic said battery is dead !! suggested me to replace battery. He said there is no problem with starter/alternator. Then it worked fine with new interstate battery for another 3 weeks and is not starting again (Midwest winter).

I had to give up the Honda and drive my new CAMRY for last 2 months. I didn't get chance to take the honda to repair.

Now that the Winter is almost over, I tried to jump start the honda... it make cranking noise, but doesn't start.

What shd I do ?(take it to dealer ? )

I don't know how much to trust the local mechanics..

Pls advise....

lilengineerboy · February 2006

1. Take the battery back to Wal Mart, should still be under warranty. If they have an auto service area, they should be able to check the charging system.
2. If you haven't replaced the main relay I would think that might be suspect. If the car is cranking, the battery is okay. The main relay energizes the fuel pump, and is prone to failure. In Hondas in my life that have had a "no-start" condition, this has been the issue for 4 of the 5, and the 5th had a bad distributor.
When you go to start the car, if you turn to the ON but not CRANK position, you should here it click and then hear the fuel pump building pressure. If you don't, I would think that is the culprit. You can chekc by measureing to see if the fuel pump is getting voltage at that stage. The repair manual will explain how.
3. You should really invest the $15 and get the repair manual for the car. It will tell you how to check the main relay, and replace it if it is the problem. Even if you don't do any work yourself, it may also help you talk to a mechanic.
Good luck, and as they say, YMMV.

optimo · February 2006

Brace yourselves for this one...

I bought a 93 accord EX from a girl that took little or no care of it at all. My intentions for this car is to get it back to peak performance. It has taken a while and I am quite close. When I first got the car it hadn't been cranked in over a year. I was able to jump it and get it to my house which was a little under a mile away. I noticed right away that the check engine light was on and that it wouldn't go past 3500 rpms in drive, neutral, park or whatever. I got the car home and did the immediate things such as changing the oil and water and fuel and fuel filter and oil filter and air filter and replaced the battery and still couldn't get the thing to go past 3500 rpms, was the strangest thing. I used the jumper and got the codes from the check engine light. it was 4 pause 8 pause 4 and it was continued so it was either 4 and 8 or 48 and it made sense that it was 48 and so I changed the o2 sensor. Still wouldn't go past 3500 rpms. A friend told me that it was the cat, so I took it off and replaced it and still won't go past 3500 rpm. Finally I thought of the spark plug wires, the distributor and the button and replaced them all and it works fine about 7 of 10 cranks. Sometimes it will be working fine and the check engine light will all of a sudden come on and it won't go past 3500 rpm. Another friend told me that it was the car's ground and that I needed to check the resistance. Well I didn't think that was it so I kinda blew that off, but just now while I was installing a radar detector (hardwiring it) I noticed that I couldn't get a ground inside the car. I took the radar out and tested it at the battery and it worked fine. I went back in and checked power at the fuse box and that was fine. But I can't get a -12v ground... WTF? The only thing that I can think that will help with this is that the front left and right quarter panels are damaged and the corner lights were broken. I have no problems with any of the lights except for at the front right of the car and I can't get them to work. The flasher on the inside blinks all the time and a new one does the same. The wires do not look damaged though? Does anyone have any idea about this??? Please help me if you do. I want to get this thing fixed so bad and I'm so close.

Thanks

user777 · February 2006

I think I would pull the neg and pos from the batt, and clean the battery terminals, then for the gnd wire, I'd check where it goes and verify it goes to someplace it is supposed to (research) and that point is clear of any rust, debris, paint.

I don't know what you mean by the flasher on the inside blinks. Can you explain?

optimo · February 2006

The flasher is the little relay looking item that makes the clicking sound under the dash when you use left right or hazard turn signals. If you remove it they do not work at all. In my case it is clicking double time and only clicks at the right pace when I actually use the turn signals. It clicks all the time if the key is on. I'm thinking of replacing the ground wire on the car. It looks to be where it should be but it is fraid before it gets to the spot where it at the car and then it comes back together. Not broken but unwound and that may throw the ground off some???

user777 · February 2006

well, yes, you should replace it. will it throw the ground off some? The thicker the wire, the more current carrying capability, the less likely it is to have sources of resistance to carrying proper current flow. Intermittent connections could be the source of varying voltage / electronics reset / initialization / sensor flakeys, etc.

was the vehicle in an accident? seems like something is messed up with the steering column mounted switches and perhaps more.

did you verify all fuses and relays in all fuse / relay recepticles are properly inserted?

optimo · February 2006

Yeah... No accident ever noted, clean record, but the two front corners are damaged. If you could imagine a blind person trying to parallel park. I had to order clear corner lights and 2 fenders but the frame work and the bumper and all seem fine. Back to that ground is that why the car will run but I still can't get a good ground on an additional electronic device? That is so strange. I'm going to go to advanced auto and buy a new ground harness this weekend and try that. Maybe that will do it.

user777 · February 2006

Well, I'm not sure how you are wiring your accessory... Why can't you get a good ground? I'm not sure. Are you trying to connect to a GND wire in a harness, or are you going to vehicle ground? All I can think of is paint and plastic. Perhaps there is a preferred means to wire the accessory and ground. First thing I would have tried would have been to parallel off the Accessory Plug. Have you got 12VDC on those terminals with the car on?

cathysherry · March 2006

1990 Honda Accord driver's side window has gone off the track and I can't figure out how to remove the interior panel..can I do it myself or do I need to go to a repair shop?

cathysherry · March 2006

The check engine light goes on intermittently, usually shortly followed with the odometer and speedometer quitting. The light thing started a little before I had to replace the alternator. The car is running great, it's been tuned, oil's good. Any ideas?

optimo · March 2006

Yeah, I know about plastic and I know about paint. I used to work at a car stereo place. What's weird is that I can't get a ground I think that with the car running or with the key on the power and the ground are balanced out. I know that sounds weird. Someone said that a wire could be grounded out to the metal nearby and not enough to pop a fuse or to burn anything but enough to throw off the ground. I have never heard of such. I have a clean ground point i just can't get a gound there.

camerondvr · March 2006

I have a 93 Accord with 180k on it. It has been 60k since last timing belt change 5 1/2 years ago. The dealer tells me that it should be done every 90k or 6 years. Since I could probably drive a 2+ years without getting to the 90k, how important is it that I change it before I get to 6 years?
Also, the clutch level is low and the dealer says they just want to watch it to make sure the clutch isn't going out. The car still has its original clutch so I am not surprised, but is $850 a lot to have it replaced?

I've had this car 10 years and have put 140k of the 180k on it, but don't want to put too much $$$ into it-at least more than it is worth.

I would appreciate your advice. thanks

Mr_Shiftright · March 2006

As for the clutch, just use it until it fails or is close to failing. You already got more than your money's worth out of the clutch and obviously you are a careful driver.

As for the timing belt, I'd be more concerned with mileage wear than age wear---the only exception would be if you could see oil on the timing belt. that's not good.

lastwraith · March 2006

Do the door yourself, it's easy. Screws are in the likely locations. There are mostly snaps holding on the interior panel of the door around the edges. There are also some screws covered by caps, especially near the armrest section.

As for the check engine light (CEL), you need to get a code from the car. Take it in to Auto Zone or wherever and have them pull it for free or just jump the connector on the passenger side and read out the codes on the CEL.

kevsabo · March 2006

my 1992 accord has the following symptons!!!
1 its an intermittent problem ive got, sometimes happens
sometimes not and a engine restart usually clears it!
2 nasty screach noise from engine bay(sounds like bust water pump bearing but its not)
3 only happens at low speed or tick over!!
4 idle speed goes erratic to the point of stalling
5 engine check light comes on when the noise gets bad!
6 my cars an automatic
havnt done the engine diagnostic code stuff yet to see if anything is wrong there.
as i say if i stop the car and restart it mostly goes away
and may or may not happen again on that journey
any body out there got any clues for me ???
distribitor ?? gear box? ecu? ect??
car has 104k miles and apprt from this is sound
regards Kevin in Edinburgh

nd2chill · March 2006

I was replacing my spark plugs and noticed that the gaskets on three of the four spark plug tubes were so old that they were allowing oil to leak in through the cam cover. There wasn't much but what there was drained down into the head when I removed the spark plugs. Will this cause any permanent damage? Thanks Shiftright!

Mr_Shiftright · March 2006

Nah, no problem, as long as no large objects fell down there! A little oil in there is probably good actually. :P

kk262 · March 2006

Hey, my 91 accord (manual trans) just had symptoms very similar to yours. It was hard to start up the engine, a lot of times it would basically sputter, I'd try to give it gas but it would stall and die anyways. And I would get a high pitched screaching noise, which sometimes continue even if it started up and I drove it. If I did drive it, the "check engine" light would sometimes come on. As time went on the symptoms got worse, and the check engine light would go on right when I started the car and stay on the entire time I was driving it.

So my brother, who works in an auto parts store, asked a mechanic he knows about it (the guy specializes in Hondas). Right away the mechanic said it was probably a bad distributor, he said that the distributors in these Accords start siezing and not spinning smoothly, and that is what's causing the problem. So I bought a distributor from a junk yard for $75, and swapped it out for my old distributor. Sure enough, when I tried to spin my old distributor by the sproket on the end of the shaft, the shaft totally resisted and creaked around and I could feel some soft of resistance. It wasn't spinning smoothly, like a good distributor should.

So I disassemlbed the old distributor, and I found that the sealed ball bearing assembly around the shaft in the distributor was seriously rusted out; some of the ball bearings were very rusted, and the retainer ring that is supposed to hold the ball bearings in place was pretty much totally disintegrated. That's why the distributor wasn't spinning correctly.

So I'd say take your distributor out and try to turn the shaft. If it isn't spinning smoothly, there's your problem -- if it is spinning smoothly, put it back in and move onto the next possibility.

Note to everyone -- these ball bearings are NOT in the distributor cap, so replacing the cap will not fix this problem. Neither will replacing the plugs, wires, rotor, etc. Just because you replaced those parts doesn't mean that the distributor works!

Note -- I have pictures of the rusted out ball bearing assembly, if anyone is intersted.

nd2chill · March 2006

Thanks for the help with the oil leaking into the spark plug tube issue. I knew you'd have a quick response for me. Thanks again.

camerondvr · March 2006

Thanks for your help. I will keep driving with the clutch like you said. I don't notice anything going wrong with it anyway.

kevsabo · March 2006

hi there!
thanks for the reply as to my screaching noise!
yep looks like you could be right as i ve sussed this out
too.
on closer inspection and checking the ecl codes it surely is the distributor at fault.any chance you can email the pics that youve avaiable?
my email address is kevsabo@blueyonder.co.uk
would appreciate it if you can
thanks again
regards Kev in edinburgh

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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