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Comments
I don't want a photobucket.com membership.
Sorry
So now, not only is the light not visible but you can't hear it either. :shades:
Oddly enough the blower motor was replaced at 160K after making annoying noises and then finally faily. Just wondering if this could be anything else than just a blower motor.
Thanks
Since it's pre-1996 Autozone won't scan it (OBDI not OBDII)
but it is the same problem, once it warms up.
See below post - Mine is a Vtec but has the same problem, however, I did replace the hitachi distributor with a non hitachi, still not sure if this is the problem
Hello everyone, been reading the message back to last October and haven't found anything that matches the problem that I'm having. I have a 1995 Accord LX, I4, non-VTEC, automatic trans, with 200k miles.
On a cold engine, I can hit 4k+ RPM without problems. About 15 mins after I start the engine, the check engine light turns on and the car won't go over 3k RPM. I can drive fast, slow, or drive to the gas station and turn off the engine and it's almost always 15 mins after I first start the cold engine. When I hold the gas down steady, it will oscillate between 2.75 and 3.25k RPM and if I give it more gas, it will back fire periodically while oscillating.
Been meaning to go over to a friends to get the code but haven't been able to sync up with him. Anyone have any ideas what is going on? Am I completely hosed?
Thanks in advance for any help...
any ideas please
:sick:
You will need a scan tool.
Autozone, Advance, ETC will scan for codes.
Suspect -3 is your problem, something frozen, move it inside and let it thaw out if possibe.
Service Manual available at
http://pdftown.com/PDF-Honda-Accord-1994-1997-Service-Manual.html
Any ideas?
Down load this Service-Manual. look under the electrical tab. Fan controls, page 23-125. Diagrams and test procedure links.
http://pdftown.com/Honda-Accord-1994-Service-Manual.html
The manual reference in message 1333 is no longer available.
xxxhttp://pdftown.com/PDF-Honda-Accord-1994-1997-Service-Manual.htmlxxx
It sometimes does not start at all when it is warm. It does do a little click though.
I took it to the mechanic and he changed the started, but that did not resolve the problem. I am thinking it might be related to another problem that i have with the inside lighting system in the car, they do not work properly. The other day I park my car for 5 minutes, then tried to start it, but it would not start until I put some snow in the starter area and made it a bit cold. Any ideas?Thanks
Check for 94-97 Honda Factory Service Manuals.
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals
You will need to register to download. no big deal its free.
I checked the antifreeze level, it was OK.
Thanks
If you don't have a torque wrench, use a nut driver so you will be less inclined to over-tighten them.
It started up immediately and strongly, but then almost instantaneously died (a second or two) as if something wasn't engaging (rather than sputtering or choking or stalling as if it wasn't getting fuel). It seemed like whatever the next stage in the starting process that was supposed to occur wasn't occuring. Did this a few times with same result.
Any suggestions/help/insightful thoughts would be appreciated.
Regards,
John
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
Thanks,
John
Download this F.S. Manual it has complete documentation on the sunroof Electrical and Mechanical.
http://pdftown.com/Honda-Accord-1994-Service-Manual.html
except the horn and brake lights
Oh and also, I actually got a chance to drive my sisters millenia at night. :surprise: I COULD SEE!!! :surprise: SO not only do I have off centered headlights, but they are quite dim now too. :sick: Any tips on brighter non xenon (H.I.D.) headlights?
Finally as a sort of update, I solved my antenna issue. I just got it to retract all the way and unplugged it. So no more up and down. Then came the poor reception. I ended up just pulling it up some (spoiler height) and Its great reception without being too high. I am also saving to get some LED replacement taillight bulbs to replace my current bulbs. What are you guys opinions on this? I was going to use superbrightleds.com for my purchase but I have no clue where I want to go with this.
$111 for parts and $80 for installation.
Mrbill
I am facing the same issue with my honda accord cigarette lighter. It's loose and coming out of the assembly. Please let me know how you had fixed it..
Thanks.
Thanks.
It's very easy and should only take 15-20 minutes to do. I have almost no mechanical aptitude and I found it very easy.
I bought the car new nearly 15 years ago (about 160,000 miles), and this is the first time, I believe, that I've had this exact problem. In earlier life, when my at-that-time economic circumstances compelled me to drive a succession of used American- made beaters, this was a not uncommon problem for me, but with the passage of time and the availability of more reliable Japanese-made cars, I've kind of forgotten what the exact cause of it is, though I'm sure I must have known the answer at one time.
The first thing that popped into my mind was that the brake fluid must be low, but, as near as I could determine, the level seems to be ok. I know that in the full spectrum of automotive problems which can exist, this is a fairly common one, so I'm hoping that someone out there can jog my aging memory and tell me what's causing this symptom and what I could/should do about it.
Thanks in advance for any advice or input. I greatly appreciate anyone's insight into the nature of this problem.
No problems since, and I'm at 191k on mine. Amazingly, I've never replaced the rear brakes, and the fronts are still good after over 55k miles.
The fluid by passes the internal piston seal.
My honda had the same problem, changed the master cylinder and now have excellent brakes.
If I can't get around to a repair in the next couple of days, is it dangerous to drive this car - I mean, is there a possibility for a catastrophic brake failure?
And, that problem is fairly common, in many cars. It's easily diagnosed, typically. Catastrophic failure? Unlikely. The brake system is divided in half, I believe, so if one part goes (either Front Left and Rear Right, or Front Right, Rear Left) you should be left with the other portion.