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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Don't wait, drive the car directly to the nearest mechanic and have the master cylinder checked out.This problem happened to my wife's car and we put it off. Two days later she came to a stop sign and the pedal went to the floor, no brakes. She made a quick right turn and just missed being hit by a pickup truck
    Corkscrew.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    Thanks for that information.
  • techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    I need to replace the condenser fan, one of the two fans attached to the radiator.
    It seems to mount to the radiator with just 2 bolts on top (easily accessible).
    Has anyone done a replacement without removing the radiator?
    Im trying to get an idea how difficult the job is going to be. Thanks

    Background on the problem:

    I have a 97 Accord with about 280K. Often the AC compressor will shutdown (most likely from overheating), mostly when I am driving low speeds or idling. On the freeway I NEVER have this problem. Engine coolant temperature and coolant levels are fine. I discovered that EVERYTIME I have this problem, the accessory (2nd) radiator fan isnt spinning. I believe its this fan that helps cool the AC evaporator. If I move the blades with a pencil, they do start spinning. Which means the fan is getting electrical power. The bearings are probably starting to go. No doubt I need to replace this electric fan.
  • tmontana09tmontana09 Member Posts: 1
    hi im new to this site but im been browsing and i liked it......well i have a 97 honda accord and for some reason whn i release the gas pedal my car slows down on its own.....im guessing my brake pad stick to my rotors can n e 1 tell me whts causing this so i can fix it....also is it true the hub or the bearings wht ever it is messes up whn u replace the rotors......
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have you checked for low refrigerant level?
  • techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    I was on a cross country trip from California to Michigan in my 97 Accord 2-dr EX. I pulled over to check a map in Reno, Nevada and when I put my car back in D, the engine just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position resulted in movement of the vehicle.
    Ironically I was on my way to a local Reno Autozone to read the OBDII code becuase my check engine light has been on for a week. California Autozones won't lend the equipment anymore (some lawsuit) and I wanted to avoid the $80 most places charge to read the codes. I would bet that those codes had something to with a malfunctioning transmission and I was ignoring the warning. Lesson learned: buy one of those engine code readers and keep it in your car. I called a local Reno Honda mechanic and two transmission places and all of them including the AAA tow truck driver said the transmission is toast and needs replacement (especially with 280K on my car). I couldnt risk an extra tow to a mechanic to have this verified for sure (I have only 4 free tows from AAA a year). One place quoted $2600 for a rebuilt transmission, another shop quoted me $1800 installed for a transmission from a low-mileage Accord. A new tranny in California is no doubt more expensive. So now I am having it towed back to my house in California. I will probably keep it in my driveway until I can sell it for parts. Its really a sad day. I love my Gen-5 Accord and I feel like dumping $2K+ on a transmission would be a waste of money. Even with a replacement transistion, there is atleast 2K of other work that it eventually needs, and its up for California Smog in 4 months (2 years ago it barely passed). To me its not just another Gen-5 accord. I have some mods, my interior looks brand new and the wear and tear give it its unique character. Perhaps some of you were once in the same position and can offer your thoughts.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My advice - sell the car for what you can get for it. The transmission work will cost more than the car is worth.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    280K? The car owes you nothing. It's been a great soldier, so give it a decent burial. Last thing you want to do is put a brand new transmission in a car with the other 90% worn out.

    I doubt the warning lights would have saved you. It was just the car's time--you beat the odds by 100K.
  • gariegarie Member Posts: 3
    '96 Honda Accord
    150k miles
    standard transmission

    Recently, my car has been stalling when I start it. The car starts, but then the car slowly dies. It hasn't stalled after I've driven and am sitting at a red light. I talked to a mechanic and he says he wants to do a diagnostic check and get data from the onboard computer but I feel like that's a waste of money since I'm pretty sure a checklist could diagnose my problem. I thought it might be a fuel pressure issue but he said that's extremely rare. The car only seems to stall when it's hot outside - tonight after it was quite cool the car started very well and the RPMs didn't dip at all.

    On an unrelated note, the car makes a ticking noise when turning left. I think it's because of the CV joint. Will anything bad happen if I ignore it? I'm (obviously) trying to spend as little money as possible but I don't want my axle to break in half while turning or anything.
  • aarceeaarcee Member Posts: 2
    My dash light have gone, how can I check them without pulling the dash apart?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    My dash light have gone, how can I check them without pulling the dash apart?

    All of them at once? If so, I'd check the fuses first.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Yes a check list of 10,000 items makes perfectly good sense. It probably will only take a couple hundred hours and cost thousands of dollars. Those code things can't be trusted.

    I would just keep on driving it with the CV joint ticking noise. When the wheel locks up you will know for sure what the problem was. At that time it will cost only a couple thousand to repair the damage.

    You conclusion make perfectly good sense :sick:
  • gariegarie Member Posts: 3
    As I understand the "code thing", it requires the engine to report a problem code. I may be no expert, but I'm pretty sure if the car's computer detected a severe problem and reported such an error code, the "check engine" light would come on, which hasn't happened, or I would be happy to look at the error code.

    I had my friend's boyfriend check out the cooling system and it ended up being an 8 dollar fix. Guess that checklist thing would've worked after all if the man at the auto place had actually listened to me. I saved $92. I'm also moderately sure that there aren't 10,000 different things that could go wrong with the cooling system.

    Pardon me if I don't fully believe you when you imply that the wheel will lock up if I keep driving on a bad CV joint when I consider the rest of your post, but I'm not going to spend money if it is unnecessary. I was ASKING if it was unnecessary. I define necessary to be life threatening, car totaling, or cost me a great deal more if I wait. If someone who doesn't belong to the Internet Hate Machine and actually read my question would enlighten me as to what can happen if someone were to drive on a bad CV joint, I would truly appreciate it.

    I'm pretty sure most people who ask questions here are looking to save money or they would just hand the car over to a mechanic and say "have at it". I'm very sorry if my attempting to not waste my money horribly offends you.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I don't think the CV joint breaking would lock the wheel, but when it does break, you will not be going any further toward your destination. The clicking noise is a warning, and you are driving on borrowed time. It could last a year, or it could snap tomorrow.
  • aarceeaarcee Member Posts: 2
    Neither of my fuse boxes match the diagrams on them, so I had to check every fuse. They appeared OK.
    Can a fuse appear OK but still be blown?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes it can appear okay and still be bad. Best to check them with a continuity tester (ohmmeter)
  • tybumtybum Member Posts: 4
    Barry I have the same problem with my speedometer did you ever find a solution? If so please let me know what I must do to get the speedometer working.

    Joe
  • gariegarie Member Posts: 3
    =/ Ok, I'll get it looked at as soon as I can. Thank you for your help!
  • jakewhitejakewhite Member Posts: 1
    i have a honda accord 4 cyl vtech think it is 2.2 i have a mis that starts about 2000 rpms to about 2500 rpms i change spark plugs fuel pump went bad change it and filter put in new rotor and cap. it starts maybe after 4 or five minutes driving then last all the rest of the time i have pulled of fuel injectors wires one at a time to see if they would mis and they did. lost do know where to go now
  • terryv2terryv2 Member Posts: 1
    Ony one of my high beam lights work, I have checked fusses, bulb. Also my drive lights are not working, is this a concted problem? Does anyone know where I can find the Daytime running lights control unit? I did run a jump wire acrose the high beams this does not solve the dive lights problem. Help I need to get this ready for an out of province inspection.
    Terry
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hey all, quick question.

    I have a '96 LX 4-cyl 4-door with 193k miles on it. Lately, I've noticed that my blinkers will hesitate from the time I push down the stalk to the time they start flashing. It is worse when temps are cooler, and when the car hasn't been driven for the day. As time goes on, the hesitation goes away.

    I'll move to signal a turn, nothing will happen for about one second, then I hear the click but at double-time speed (no flashing on the instrument panel or outside) much like when a bulb is out, then it will pick up and blink like normal. Today was the longest time-period with no blinking (over 5 seconds) and it nearly got me rear-ended; I had to go to the next block and double back to make my turn.

    Any thoughts or suggestions on what the problem could be? Any/all replies are most appreciated!

    Thanks!

    TheGraduate

    PS: No bulbs are out, and the hazard flashers work immediately when you press the button.

    image
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    My guess is your turn signal flasher is acting up. The last time I worked with flashers, there were 2, one for the turn signals, one for the hazard flashers. Typically they use the same flasher module, which means if you can locate them (follow the sound) and swap them with each other, you can see if you have a bad one or not without spending a dime.

    Mrbill
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    How might I get to it I wonder... (not just asking you MrBill), if anyone knows, thanks!
  • tybumtybum Member Posts: 4
    My speedometer quit, wife drove the car played with the odometer reset and speedometer worked for a few miles. Cruise always worked. Changed the VSS( vehicle speeed sensor) did no good, but since I change the VSS the odometer has registered an additional 40 miles and I am sure the speedo worked during those 40 miles I just did not notice. Speedo registers 20 mph all the time the switch is on. Since it worked and does not worked it sounds like a loose wire or connection but where do I look or is there another solution??

    Sure would like some help,

    Tybum
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    You can find info on fuses in your owners manual under "taking care of the unexpected" Turn signals are located in the under dash panel on the drivers side.
    Regards,
    Corkscrew
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    It's not the fuses that are the problem; its the flashers. They aren't the same thing, right?
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Signal flasher is located in the under-dash fuse box. As I recall, hazard flasher is located in the under-hood fuse box located on the passengers side in the front of the engine compartment. If they both are the same, you can put the hazard flasher in the slot for the signal flasher to verify that the signal flasher is the problem.
    Flashers and fuses are different but they tend to be located in the same box, either under hood or under dash. You should find a diagram under each cover that shows where the flasher is and which fuse controls what circuit.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Awesome. Thanks for the info. So all I (likely) have to do is pull them out, like a fuse, and swap them?
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    As long as both are the same. The diagram under each cover will give you that info. If one is 7.5 amps and the other is 15 amps don't swap them, buy a new one.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    If your unsure exactly where the flasher is, or which module is the right one, turn on your turn signals and listen for the click. Most flasher modules produce the clicking noise, so they are usually easy to locate. An online parts store shows both the emergency flasher and turn signal flasher as the same part number, so swapping them out should work. They just pull out/push in. They are bigger then fuses.

    Mrbill
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    To both:

    I simply took the "Extra Fuse" that is in the fusebox (the 7.5 amp one) to replace the 7.5 amp turn signal fuse. We will see how it works. I didn't drive the car today, but did run the car for a second to make sure they were operational; they were.

    Thanks both of you for your help. I knew how to check/change fuses, but didn't realize that's what it might take to fix it.

    :)

    Thanks again!

    TheGrad
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Check the operation of your signal lights before using the car. I think you may have replaced only the fuse in the circuit. If the problem is still there, check above the kick panel. The first black flasher is for the turn signals.When you pull the flasher out it should say "turn signal" on the panel. Sorry, but I assumed that the flasher would be in the fuse box,.
  • pearbear1pearbear1 Member Posts: 1
    I've lost both the plastic brake fluid cap for my 1994 Honda Accord and the knob that holds the bar that holds up the hood. Will my car be ok without these caps and knobs? And if not where do I find replacement ones?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If brake fluid spills, it can damage a lot of things, especially paint. I would not drive the car without the cap on the brake fluid. Brake fluid also absorbs moisture, so when you do get another cap, I would change the fluid. Maybe you could find a cap at a salvage yard. Get another cap, whatever it takes. I don't think the holder for the prop-rod is all that important, as long as the rod can't swing and damage something else.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I did replace only the fuse, and it didn't solve the problem. They're operational, but still with the delay upon the first few uses.

    My main issue is getting down there. I'm 6'5" and fitting down there is tough! I'll try it tomorrow.
  • 808badboi808badboi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 accord wagon boosted.The car starts but can barely idle and when I push on the throttle it stalls.I checked all the injectors with a noid light and they all flash.I also cracked open the fuel line while it was idling and gas just shot out from the flange area.The fuel pump also screams when the car is idling I can hear it when I sit in the drivers seat while the car idles.Need help please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Since you seem to have fuel, have you checked the fire from the spark plugs?
  • svsrdrsvsrdr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Accord EX auto with 115k. In neutral the car will idle good and smooth, in gear it often has a miss and this miss is evident while accelerating up to about 2000rpm. This weekend I ran up into the mountains for a family bbq and the car ran very badly with missing under even moderate load and idling in gear. If I have an additive like 44K or the Lucas injector cleaner it runs much better, no engine light has come on. When it was running poorly in the hills it really seemed like a carbureted engine that was jetted to fat for altitude. I had replaced the cap, rotor and plugs when the miss first started, the wires are from 2004 and have very few miles on them since that point.
  • oldmanhonda99oldmanhonda99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 accord v6 and my speedometer and odometer rarely work. the speedometer is stuck on 20mph yet no mileage is registering. I would like to fix this myself only I'm not sure what to replace. I would like to buy the right part the first time. any advice is much appreciated.
    thank you!
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    This just happened to me too. Turn signals work fine, but occasionally will not work. Hazards don't work at all though. I'm going to check this out later to see what comes up.
  • pj_columbiapj_columbia Member Posts: 12
    Need some help from those of you experiencing and conquering the main relay problem. I am on my 3d relay and continue to experience a similar problem - when it gets hot and muggy the car won't start. Once started I experience no problems the rest of the day. AND the starting problem ONLY happens when it's hot and muggy. My wife just traveled out west and back and experienced the problem a few times and I swapped out the main relay a month before she left. I bought the last one from the dealer thinking that I might have gotten a bum relay from someplace that wasn't the dealer. They've all been MITSUBA RELAY [non-permissible content removed]'Y, MAIN RZ-0088 12V JAPAN. Has anyone else been able to correct the problem successfully? I took the car to my mechanic 2 years ago when the problem started to get out of hand. He replaced the plugs and distributor rotor. My wife is ready to trash the car and this is the only thing wrong with it; I hate to get rid of it...THANKS for your help.

    PJ
  • stokeskielstokeskiel Member Posts: 1
    Hi, new member :p i have a accord that i have to remove the side skirts from, i have removed the plastic screws from the bottom but they have clips on the side of them that go into the body and you cant get to, do you just pry them off or is there a special way to remove them? cheers for the help
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    .Here is a link to the main relay. There is a lot of info to read but there is one thing you can try with the relay that is giving you problems, mount it upside down. Heat rises and affects the soldered joints. Upside down gets the heat away from the soldered joints. There is also a section on drilling more holes to let the heat out:
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/solutions.html
    Regards,
    Corkscrew
  • pj_columbiapj_columbia Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, Corkscrew - I broke open one of the relays and it's Greek to me. I'll check it out with someone from the shop I take the car to. Appreciate your insight!

    PJ
  • erchavezerchavez Member Posts: 5
    I seem to have a hissing sound coming from where the master cylinder meets the brake booster. Seems to be an air leak????? 94 honda accord EX with ABS
  • rwyatt80rwyatt80 Member Posts: 4
    I just recently replaced my O2 sensor (a few weeks ago; after the cat converter) and it went bad....because I have a performance exhaust, should I just go with a performance sensor, or stick with OEM???
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Depending on your mileage, your o2 sensor may still be covered on the the Honda FACTORY recall. Its covered for up to 13years or 130k miles iirc. I took it to the dealership and they replaced it for me for free. Heh, they even changed my oil. :D

    Good luck! :shades:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Not to nitpick, but it is 14y/150k. :)

    How do I know? I have replaced two in my car's lifetime under this recall, for free.
  • zguy77zguy77 Member Posts: 2
    I was running some errands the other day and looked down at my temperature gauge to find that it was well beyond the red. So as soon i got home i shut the car off and popped the hood to take a look at the coolant level to find that it was bone dry. I also noticed that two hoses, the upper and the lower, were collapsed. Does this mean that the hoses were old and just needed replaced or is there something else going on that would have caused this to happen? Anyone with some advise would be much appreciated.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    The system does create a small vacuum when cooling down which then draws coolant from the overflow tank. If both hoses are collapsed, I would suspect the radiator cap is not opening/closing. Another possibility may be the overflow tube by the radiator cap to the tank is plugged.

    Mrbill
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