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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • zguy77zguy77 Member Posts: 2
    How does one go about resetting the check engine light after repairs have been made on a '96 Accord EX?
  • drzoltardrzoltar Member Posts: 6
    It should turn off by itself in under 50 miles from the service. If not, take it back as something is wrong. I once had service done where a vacuum seal wasn't reconnected properly and this is why my engine light stayed on.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    To turn the check engine light off.
    1. Turn the ignition switch off.
    2. Remove the BACK-UP (7.5 A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the ECM.
    The fuse/relay box is on the passenger side near the firewall and hood hinge.
  • tigeriiitigeriii Member Posts: 5
    I was told that the TCM probably needs to be replaced on my 97 Accord. Would a problem with the TCM cause a car with a new battery to not start and then start a few minutes later?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Yes, I believe it could. If the TCM is malfunctioning to the point where it thinks it's in gear, the engine will not start. Not saying it is definitely the problem, but it could be. When the TCM went out in my 92 Accord heat was a major factor. The hotter it was inside the car, the more problems it would cause.
  • islandmochaislandmocha Member Posts: 2
    Aloha,

    I am new here. My ABS light comes on and off sometimes and starts making a clicking sound, the speedometer drops and sometimes when i come to a complete stop the car completely shuts off. Last night the car wouldn't even start. I disconnected and reconnected the battery cable and it started up. Please help im not sure what to do or how to fix it. :cry:
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Does your cruise control work, "maintain a set speed".
    If your cruise works, that tells you the vehicle speed sensor is good.
    If the speedometer bounces around 20 mph, the speedometer head is bad.
    Honda calls the speedometer cluster "combination gauge". :)
  • tybumtybum Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem and made the sistake of purchasing a VSC and it was not needed, I finally just purchased a GPS which gives me my speed and it has been the least expensive solution.
  • zilekizileki Member Posts: 1
    Hello--

    I just bought a '96 Accord EX Wagon (automatic transmission) with right around 100K miles. The car seems to be running well in many respects, BUT...

    ...it started out having a faint, but still noticeable fuel odor right when I started it. I also began to notice a high pitched noise when driving at low speeds. More recently (I've only driven it about 2,500 miles), it started to become very loud when the transmission shifts between up in low gears (it could be doing at high speeds too, but I just don't notice because of road noise). It sounds like an exhaust/muffler sound, but it also feels so sluggish that I worry it could be a transmission issue.

    I really love this car and want it to last a long time. Any advice before I take it to the mechanic?
  • bloodflowbloodflow Member Posts: 2
    how hard is it to change out the brake lines and fuel lines that run from the master cyl to the rear of the car
  • sooner_chotsooner_chot Member Posts: 28
    Lately on my 95 Accord EX Sedan, I have noticed that I hear my ABS pump more and more while driving. Typically, I would hear it after a cold start and that would be it for the day. Now, I hear it after each start, and sometimes while driving.

    The ABS warning light does come on after several miles.

    Any ideas?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    The ABS warning light does come on after several miles.
    Any ideas?


    Yep... your ABS pump is bad. Very common in those years for Hondas and Acuras. Frankly, I'm shocked that it has lasted this long for your car. Pricey repair too. :sick:

    FWIW, the brakes still work and the ABS still worked the one time I needed it way back when. My son is still driving it and I think it has over 230k miles now.
  • sooner_chotsooner_chot Member Posts: 28
    How much do you think the repair will be??
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    More than you want to spend on a car that's about 15 years old, I'm willing to bet.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Sorry... I've been out of town.

    IIRC, many years ago, the Honda dealer wanted around $1600 to replace the ABS pump for my 95 Accord. Since the brakes still work and the ABS also worked the one time I needed them, it wasn't worth the money. You may want to call the dealer and see about the cost. I'm sure an independent shop would be cheaper.
  • meanf22nontecmeanf22nontec Member Posts: 1
    I just spent a grand on my distributor cap,housing,spark plugs and wires.I took it to the mechanic because it was spuddering in the mornings when I would crank it up.I thought it was fixed untill the next time it did it again. What akind of problem does this sound like? Is it an ECU problem or a defective distributor housing? Thats the two options my mechanic gave me to fix. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • bradman3bradman3 Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 Accord stalls when driving down the road. When I attempt to start with the key, no lights light up on dash. I do have automatic start on my car alarm, so I can start the car in neutral, slide it into drive, and drive it until I hit the brake. That's what the automatic start is supposed to do. Then it will die, because the lights on the dash don't come on even when the key is turned on. I have replaced the electrical portion of the ignition switch, but it didn't solve the problem. Anyone know where to look next? Thanks, Bradman3
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    I have the coupe se 2.2L 4at no codes on the mil but sometimes it sputters and stalls and the tack jumps around (but the rpms arent really). I have fuel pressure and the coil is good, cap and wires also. Im in school for smog so i've had it on the dyno and the scope. the spark lines are good, but when I drive it sometimes it feels like its not getting fuel. Ive done the self diagnostic on it and thats when it will throw a code 11 at me. The manual says replace the ecm my teacher thinks it might be the distributer. Has anyone else had any ecm problems. ITs driving me nuts. Thanks
  • elleon804elleon804 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 accord se with 115000 miles on it ..When i push the gas lightly at a low idle, I can hear a small rattle...I can only hear this when I press the gas lightly..When I am pressing the gas harder somtimes i will hear it real quick then it stops.. The car runs and drives great..I just know that the sound that im hearing is not normal.. Can anyone give me an idea of what this can be? could it be the timing chain? or the fuel pump? or transmission? any ideas would be greatly appreciated...
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    It could be anything from loose change to a plastic fitting coming loose or a motor mount wearing out. Probably nothing to worry about since the check engine light is not on. The fuel pump is in the tank, you have a timing belt not chain, and the tranny might go "clunk" but no rattles. After 12 years on the road things get loose. Are you in park when you hear this or drive?
  • elleon804elleon804 Member Posts: 3
    I noticed it in park off and on..mostly off...But if im in park and give it gas lightly i can hear it constantly, but when i give it more gas it stops... when im in drive I can hear when press the gas lightly at the beggining ...then off and on thoughout my day to day driving...I noticed it when i drove 200 miles to San Antonio...But no check engine light..and the car runs like a champ.. I just dont want take a chance if it was somthing like the timing belt..Thanx for your imput
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    You are welcome. When you start moving the motor is using a lot of torque to transition from a stop hence more vibration hence the rattle. keep listening and see if you can track it down. You will feel much better if you can see that its nothing or something dumb. Its always a little scary when we think something might go wrong with our cars, we depend on them so much.Try opening your hood and have someone do the gas in park and in drive, and just look and listen you might see whats moving around but don't drive yourself crazy! Have a good day
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    You may just have a loose heat shield on the exhaust. They will usually vibrate more at a certain rpm. One of the bolts could be loose, or the corner of the heat shield could be completely rusted off.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    elroy5 right again
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, 200,045 now. I joined the 200,000 mile club yesterday. My '96 LX I4 Auto keeps on chugging.

    I have a CEL that's on, but AutoZone checked it out; its a bad O2 sensor. Not worth fooling with when I'm still getting 25-27 mpg in mixed use driving as a courier. Otherwise, the transmission shifts as good as ever, the A/C blows cold, and the car cranks every time without hesitation. I use this car for work (1,500 mi a month)and keep my 06 for everything else (it has 51k miles). Gotta love 'em!

    image

    TheGraduate
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    A bad O2 sensor will burn out your cat get a new one soon
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Which sensor is giving you trouble, Sensor #1 or sensor#2.
    Corkscrew
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Number 1
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Number 1 is the primary sensor. It along with the computer determines the fuel mixture that is injected into the engine. If you are running a rich mixture it will damage the cat. If this were my accord, I would be making an appointment with my local honda dealer to have it fixed.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I'm not prepared to dump much $ into a car with that many miles that MAY be worth $3000. How much should this cost to fix roughly? I don't trust my dealer anymore and will use an independent shop I've used in the past.

    Thanks,

    TheGrad
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The dealership will probably charge $350 or more to change the sensor. A local shop could be as little as $225. Depends how much the local shop pays for the sensor, and if it's oem or not. For a cheap sensor they could charge less than $200. A CAT will cost you a lot more, if the sensor causes it to fail. Of course there are plenty of cars out there with Check Engine Light's on for years, and the car runs perfectly. So who knows. Do you feel lucky? ;)
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Does your state test emissions? If they do you will fail the test and have to get it fixed anyway. I see where you are coming from, follow Elroy's advice and use a garage that you have used before, but do have it repaired. I like to ask myself " Can I buy an auto as good as this one for 3 grand"? The answer to that question usually tells me what to do.
    Corkscrew
  • kate31kate31 Member Posts: 1
    We are currently looking at a 1996 Honda Accord, just as a runabout....has 260,000 miles on it, very nicely kept and maintained, just concerned about
    the number of miles.....Any advice on what to expect to keep this car running
    in good working order...? Thanks!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    No, Alabama does no test emissions.

    As far as feeling lucky and buying a car that good for three grand, it's really a non issue, except profit wise. This is it secondary car that I use for work only; I have an 06 Accord that I use primarily.

    Thanks for all the responses folks.
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    Its like 20 bucks for a new o2 sensor it takes like 5 minutes to put in. It is right in front on your header you can borrow or buy an o2 wrench and be done with it.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Sensor located before catalytic converter $97.00 "Direct replacement"

    Sensor located after catalytic converter $134.00 "Direct replacement"

    Universal 4 wire; planar $71.00, comes with splice connectors.

    The only difference of the before or after is the connector plug and wire length.

    The connector plug is different so they can't be reversed. The ECU needs to know the difference.. No big deal using the universal.
    Been there done that, no guessing here. ;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I called my mechanic, whom I've used for several years. He told me the part itself would be $221. He double-checked, then was astounded at the cost. He told me I was better off without it, and if it was his car, still running smoothly and getting 25+ mpg mixed driving (under new EPA guidelines I should get 20/27, so that's great), he wouldn't do it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can't really tell if it's the 02 sensor merely by reading the code. Many a good 02 sensor goes into the trash at Autozone & Kragen.

    It might be something that is upsetting the 02 sensor. You'd have to test the 02 sensor values and see if they conform to the acceptable range.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Me and my communications degree don't know how to tell a good sensor from a bad one. :)

    As always, thanks for all responses everyone.

    :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's true, that's why you have a "mechanic" who is supposed to know how to do this. No guessing allowed using your checkbook.
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    I just looked at the autozone web site 89 or 67 dollars. I was curious because I have a 97. same car. But if you dont care I sure dont. If you dont have to worry about your emissions then dont trip. I live in California and a cat costs 2 or 3 hundred dollars plus the price of a failed smog test so things are a little different for me. Have a good day
  • elleon804elleon804 Member Posts: 3
    Thanx for your input... :)
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    There is one school of thought that says to replace O2 sensors when spark plugs are replaced. Sensor performance will diminish with age. Like a spark plug, contaminants accumulate on the tip and reduce its ability to produce voltage,or the sensors heater may not be working. It's also a good idea to check the sensors wiring and it's plug. If your sensor is in open loop you are running on a default rich mixture which will damage the cat over time.
    Sensors can be checked with a digital storage oscilloscope.It has a readout similar to an ekg.
    Keep one thing in mind, if you choose a universal sensor as a replacement, the wire colors may not be the same as the wire colors in the harness. On a 4 wire sensor, 2 are for the heater, 1 is for signal and 1 is for ground. The one code you don't want to see is a P0420 catalyst code.
    Regards,
    Corkscrew
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Thanks for checking.

    :)

    TheGrad

    PS - How many miles on your '97?
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    207,000 still runs great passes smog. I had a little problem awhile ago.I thought it was possessed checked everything finally realized that my coil wire was working its self loose lol
  • skyking49skyking49 Member Posts: 112
    First the Wiper issue: Until recently wipers on my 1997 Honda Accord were working fine. Recently, within the last two weeks, it started taking me a few tries to get them to work. I would turn the switch on low to high and it seem to "kick start" them. This progressed to where they would start but then stop with the wipers stuck straight up and down. Now they do not work at all. I have thought of the problem being either a short or a dead wiper motor. Could it be something else? If it is most likely the motor, how much would this hit my wallet if I just bought it and second how much to have it replaced by a garage?

    Second issue is the suspension problem I noticed that my ball joints were going bad and did a little research online. There is a recall listed at the site I listed below but the Honda folks say my VIN is not part of the recall. Over 100,000 recalls and it missed me.!? There ought to be a law.....thanks in advance for any info.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/results.cfm?SearchType=QuickS- earch&rcl_ID=99V069000&summary=true
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My wipers were worn out when I got my '96; my grandmother who had owned the car was the type to run them on high, even in a light sprinkle. They would run, by wouldn't stop where they should, slapping together at the base if the windshield, and the driver's side one would hit the windshield moulding at the top. Loudly.

    I had the motor replaced (supposedly the clutch was burned up) by my dealer for around three hudred, back in 2005. No probs to speak of from it.
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    The tranny on my 89 accord lxi went out it has the A20A3 motor. Will the tranny off of a 1990 accord f22 motor fit?
  • bensjetsbensjets Member Posts: 7
    Have 1997 Accord SE 2Dr.Coupe Auto.,2.2L Non-VTeck Just bought the car and was told that a line to AC unit missing. To get one at junk yard and recharge,and it will work fine.Was told that I could easily find this problem.No need saying how I got into this,just need some help out.Does anyone out there have a diagram of this unit,or can explain in laymans words what goes where, lines, hoses,vaccum or other wise and any thing else Im not thinking of. Should say that both lines coming off compressor are hooked up to unit and seem to be hooked on other end too. Thanks People
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    here is a site for the complete service manual. download the third one from the top. ( above honda accord 1994 zip) http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ good luck
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