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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jesszhondajesszhonda Member Posts: 4
    i can tell you from personal experience, your call definitely will be able to start with a flathead screwdriver. but i wouldn't recommend it in the slightest. it does something to the ignition that will lead you to have problems down the line.
    but yes, it is possible.
  • auburn6auburn6 Member Posts: 17
    I dont think it would be something he did however it could be a reason your fog lights dont work. Fix the electrical portion of the ignition switch first unless you have already had them re wired.
  • techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    edited February 2010
    I have a Honda Accord with over 280K. Recently the automatic
    transmission seized (3 mechanics confirmed its lost) and since the
    rest of the car is in excellent condition, I'm considering having a
    shop replace it with a used transmission (which is cheaper than
    getting a rebuilt one). I want the replacement transmission to last as
    long as possible.
    The owners manual recommends replacing the transmisson fluid every
    90,000 miles.
    Would changing and flushing the fluid more frequently help improve
    transmission life?
    How often would be best? Are there any differences in quality between
    transmission fluids? Anything else I can do to help automatic
    transmission longevity? Thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    1.) Use ONLY the proper Honda transmission fluid.

    2.) Don't have your transmission fluid flushed. Drain, refill, drive a short distance. Repeat that three times. That'll effectively do the same thing, but without the threat of loosening up old particles and metal flakes that'll harm your engine, like a flush would.

    All of that said; how much are you putting into this rebuilt transmission? With the car approaching 300k miles, it likely is worth less than the transmission you'd put into it. I have a '96 LX with 207,600 miles on it as of today, and love it, but if the transmission died tonight there is no way I'd put money into the car. I'd pony up a few more dollars and buy a lower mileage vehicle.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Well, to me it's not what the transmission is worth to KBB, or the insurance company. It's what it's worth to me. Lower mileage doesn't always mean it's in better shape, and looks can be deceiving. There's a lot more to a car, than the transmission. So if the rest of the car is in good condition, and you want to keep it, go for the transmission replacement.

    I would use Honda ATF-Z1, and change it more often than 90k miles. How many times to change it, and how often, depends on the condition of the fluid drained out. No "power flushes" on Honda automatics.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, to me it just doesn't make financial sense to put $2,000 of transmission work into a $1,000 car. At 300k miles, a lot of things are just going to be "used up" or nearing their life-expectancy. I dunno, just would make me nervous to be upside-down in a car that was so worn.

    Just an opposing side to the same coin. I don't know what kind of money you're (the original poster) looking at for a transmission replacement. Care to share?
  • techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    Sure. I have a reputation tranmission shop quoting me at $1500 installed for a used transmission. To me its worth it.
    To buy a lower mileage Gen-5 accord would cost me $2000 minimium, plus
    any repairs and maintenance it would require. And I don't know well the previous owner took care of it. I have taken excellent care of mine.
    My current Gen-5 accord is in excellent condition, the interior is almost brand new inside. Plus I've replaced it has many new components such as a starter, alternator, radiator. I just want to maximize the life of the replacement transmission.
    It seems that the consensus is to change the fluid every 20-25K.
    What's wrong with doing a flush? Is it harmful? Is it helpful at all?
    Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    What Honda calls a flush, is draining 3 quarts and re-filling, 3 or 4 times, with a short drive in between. There are very small passages inside the transmission, so forcing the fluid through "power flush", will force metal particles where they can get caught, and clog things up. 3 or 4 drain and fills may not be necessary, it all depends on the condition of the fluid before and after each drain and fill.

    Some people will not put more $$ into a car, if the insured value is less than what you would spend to fix it. If the car gets totalled in an accident, you lose money on the car. I have never totalled a car yet, and don't plan to, so I don't consider that a problem, and I'll take my chances that the car will not get totalled, before I get my money's worth out of it.
  • techman41973techman41973 Member Posts: 83
    For the life of my gen-5 accord, I've had trouble removing my headlight bulbs when they need replacement. I can't get them to twist out. I usually just have my mechanic do it. I'm sure there is a trick that I'm missing.
    It would be great if someone can share it.
  • adino749adino749 Member Posts: 1
    Any luck?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They must be turned COUNTER clockwise. So if you are looking down on the bulb from the front of the car, you would twist it to your RIGHT or to the car's LEFT (driver's) side.
  • joeaiutojoeaiuto Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1994 Honda Accord stick shift that starts bucking at 2500 rpms in all gears when the car is warm. As soon as I shift down it stops until I get up to 2500 in same or different gear. I've replaced the fuel filter, vtec solenoid and the throttle plare position air sensor.

    Any suggestions? thx.

    [email protected]
  • joeaiutojoeaiuto Member Posts: 8
    Can someone please tell me where the EGR is located? Someone suggested I clean it and the plugs inside. WHile i'm not much of a mechanic I am trying to save a few bucks if possible to resolve my problem. thx.
  • TrhenningTrhenning Member Posts: 15
    it should be on the firewall side of the engine, closer to the driver's side with some tubing coming out and a wiring connector at the top if memory serves me correct.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    edited March 2010
    If you do have EGR problems, this should help, if it covers your particular engine. Good luck
    http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
  • joeaiutojoeaiuto Member Posts: 8
    thx for you help.
  • obvious1stobvious1st Member Posts: 1
    try the VSS vehicle speed sensor. its fairly inexpensive.mine went out due to an oil leak. had it replaced and the blinking stopped. as far as the car cutting off -- good luck but check the obvious first. - fuel filter, air filter, alternator, vacuum lines.
  • slaserslaser Member Posts: 1
    I am working on a 1996 Honda Accord F22B2 engine. I have placed the rebuilt cylinder head back on the engine and have a question. When I placed the cylinder head back on I had the two alignment cylinders in place; however, I didn't see the oil control orifice. Does it stick out of the block or is it recessed? I don't want to have to pull the cylinder head again to look if I don't have to. I don't have anything that looks like an orifice in my parts inventory and don't recall removing it when I lifted off the cylinder head initially.

    Thanks in advance for your insight.
  • luckychuckyluckychucky Member Posts: 2
    Have a used transmission that appears to have a larger axle gearbox and bumps the firewall frame preventing me from aligning. I have 2 numbers from this transmission: NPT3 A6 & MPXA-3033650. Can anyone tell me what I have?
    Engine is 2.2L i4.
  • kchrp5kchrp5 Member Posts: 1
    My 97 accord 4cyl. with 60,000 miles had a check engine light pop up and a friend plugged in a computer to it. the code reverted to low voltage at the o2 sensors. is the sensor bad?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It appears you have an Accord transmission from a few years earlier. What you should have is an MPOA.
  • drzoltardrzoltar Member Posts: 6
    Agreed. It's an older transmission if you were able to check it that easily.

    I have found that 9 times out of 10 if the check engine light comes on in a Honda it's a bad O2 censor. Nothing that needs to be fixed immediately. Your fuel will just burn with a higher O2 content and you'll get slightly less MPG until it's fixed.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    :) Description: 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, FWD
    2.2L
    Fits: 1994 - 1997 Honda Accord
    Tag ID: AOYA, BOYA, MPOA

    :cry: Description: 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, FWD
    2.2L
    Fits: 1991 - 1993 Honda Accord
    Tag ID: MPXA (JAPAN BUILT)

    ;) Description: 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, FWD
    2.2L
    Fits: 1990 Honda Accord
    Tag ID: PX4B
  • joeaiutojoeaiuto Member Posts: 8
    I would like to thank everyon for their suggestions. I finally broke down and spent $90 for Honda Dealer to give me a read. It seems his computer was much better than my mechanics, The car needed a new distributor or a piece within the distributor. They wanted $548 for a new one but i was able to find one online for $165 including shipping!. Car run like a clock!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you handled that very well...you got the right info and then shopped around.
  • 97hondaaccord97hondaaccord Member Posts: 2
    Okay I have a 97 non vtech accord special edition and the fan will not turn on but they do both work when the a/c comes on. My coolant in boiling in the over flow tank although the gauge in the car reads its at a normal temp. I just went and grabbed an engine coolant temp sensor but where is it located on my car? i see a few that look the same. Also i checked all my fuses and tried a new relay but to no avail, PLEASE HELP!
  • luckychuckyluckychucky Member Posts: 2
    Where the top radiator hose and engine connect is an electical connector. The temperature sensor is mounted on the water return housing at the hose connection.
  • 97hondaaccord97hondaaccord Member Posts: 2
    also it could still be bad even if my check engine light is not on?
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    I have the same problem in my 1997 accord. Its driving me crazy, because i think the car is wasting more gas than it is, I can't get an accurate read out. I mean I look at the fuel gauge at a red light, and its almost full, i look back down and its a quarter tank less, its fluctuates like crazy! I can't afford to be messing around with this car, as its my only transportation. I went to the gas station the other day with a read out that my car was on empty. I filled up the tank with 11.6 gallons.
  • gooch24gooch24 Member Posts: 4
    Long story....My son drove his Accord thru a shallow creek and didn't make it all the way out. Air filter was soaked, carpet soaked, water in the oil and transmission fluid. Car would start the next day but would not stay running for very long. Over the next few days it would start less and less until it would not start at all. It was not getting fuel so I put a new main relay in and it has fuel now. However, when I was checking to see if the fuel pump was ok, I placed a jumper wire in to the wiring harness for the main relay. Thats when I got the fuel pump to work, but when I put the bad relay back in it to see if it would now start, it would not turn the engine over at all. No starter engagement, nothing. At the same time, the red security light stopped lighting up and the power door looks quit working. A Honda expert on another website said if the passenger side carpet got wet then the ecm is prolly bad since it sets under the carpet. I got another ECM and still won't turn over, no security light and no power door locks. I don't see any fuses or links blown and I put a new main relay in and the fuel pump runs but the car wont turn over. Also, I noticed a green circle around the D4 on the dash. It comes on when I turn the key on, stays on with the check engine light for like 2 seconds and they both go off. The best way to describe what happens when I turn the key to start it, is like I have it in reverse or drive and you try to start it, nothing happens. Maybe like a bad nuetral switch or something. They may not have that but that's what it seems like. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • teamjabbteamjabb Member Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone, I own a 1994 Honda Accord LX. I have had a recurring problem since I bought the car in 2004. There are many aspects to this unique problem which auto mechanics have had trouble diagnosing. It all starts with the D4 light on the dashboard in between the tachometer and speedometer. When this light is out when I start the car, then my gear shifter is locked and will not let me go from park to reverse or any other gear while my foot is on the brake pedal. I then have to turn the car off and manually override the gear shifter by placing my key in the shift lock release hole. I move it to nuetral and start the car. Now then, I can reverse normally but when I go to D4 the light is off and the car will not drive/shift gears properly forcing my to shift from 1-2-3 manually. With that said, when my D4 light is on the car is fine and drives smoothly and shifts properly. This problem happens while I am driving or before I am driving. It is very unpredictable, it can happen every other day or every other couple of months. If anyone has any idea on how to deal with this proble it would be greatly appreciated.
  • gooch24gooch24 Member Posts: 4
    Anybody got any ideas what may problem or plobems could be??????
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I'd replace the brake light switch, a simple thing, and see what that does for you.

    Otherwise, you may need to go to onboard diagnostics.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Hard to help with out seeing the car.

    Check/charge your battery for full charge.
    Look for bad fuse, relay, fusible link.
    Check wire connections, unplug/replug .
    Spray wires and connecters with LPS ,WD 40 or similar fluid to remove moister/dampness.
    Spray starter fluid into throttle body and try to start. If it hit/fires than the electrical is okay. Than must check fuel delivery.
    Is the check engine light coming on?
  • trinidartrinidar Member Posts: 1
    My car lost its coolant about a week ago, replaced coolant. lost it again. replaced the thermostat, same problem, then I noticed that the radiator cap did not look right. Bought a new one, and I could see the old was was missing parts. driving home everything looked good until I turned on the A/C, then the temp gauge went almost up to the red mark. Let the engine cool down (overnight). Started the car, and turned on the A/C, and temp gauge started going up again. Top radiator hose very hot, bottom hose almost cold. Suggestions?
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Bleed the air from the coolant system.
    Bleeder screw in or near the thermostat housing
    Water will not circulate with air in the system.
  • gooch24gooch24 Member Posts: 4
    When I turn the key on, the check engine light and the ring around the d4 gear position come on for like 2 seconds and then they both go out at the same time. I don't know if that is normal or not. I have checked all the fuses under the hood and under the dash. I have not found any bad fuses. I checked the fusible links in the under the hood fuse box. The engine will not turn over. Battery is fully charged. When the engine stopped turning over, I also lost my power door locks and the security light by the radio quit blinking and now does not work either. I think they may all be tied together but I don't know what to check.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    I believe the check engine and D4 light are functioning normal.

    I don't think you have power to the fuse circuits.

    Check for power coming to the main under dash fuse panel. there is probably a 50 amp fuse there.

    What documentation do you have?
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Download this manual, look at electrical info.

    http://manualspace.com/honda-accord-1994-1997-maintenance-service-manual.htm

    Follow directions on web pages for free access and password for unzipping
  • rob1994accordrob1994accord Member Posts: 1
    My son just returned from the Illinois Air Team emission test facility with our 1994 Honda Accord. They said they could not test the vehicle because they could not plug in their sensor and that the sensor plug has to be 'remounted'. Should the plug be located behind the ashtray?
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    The1994 Honda accord is not OBD-2 compliant.

    OBD-2 did not start till 1996 so there is no connector behind the ashtray on the 94, only 96 and later.

    I don't believe Air Team emission test facility know exactly what they are doing.
    I believe they are going to have to do the OLD TAIL PIPE CHECK.

    Call your local Honda place they will tell you how/where the test is done.

    The 1994 is OBD-1 which means there is no real standard across vehicles.

    To read trouble codes On the 94, the sc ( service connector) is not by the foot well or behind the ashtray, it is behing the glove box,, there is a 2 wire plug and a 3 wire plug ,,I think they are either green or blue ,,, you want to jump the 2 wire plug with a paper clip , put the key on and read the fashing codes on the instrument cluster.
  • tducketttduckett Member Posts: 1
    Had the same issue on my 98 honda accord... the light on the button will come on but the cruise control will not engage when the button on the steering wheel was pressed.... I replaced the brake light switch, it works fine now... :D
  • radicalriggerradicalrigger Member Posts: 1
    Where do you add the brake fluid in a 1994 Honda accord?
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    edited July 2010
    Driver side, under hood, on firewall,

    Verify the type brake fluid required, any parts supply store will give you the correct type required.
    The type is probably written on the Cap.

    Fill to line on reservoir..

    This link will show what it looks like.

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Master-Cylind- - er-Cardone-Select_5350006-P_230_R%7CGRPBRHYAMS_958646452___
  • gooch24gooch24 Member Posts: 4
    Ok people here was the problem. On a 97 Honda Accord SE, there is a door lock security control unit under the front passenger seat. If your door locks and security system both go out, I would check this module. From what I could gather, this module would only fit 97 Accord SE's. So it was a little hard finding one at a salvage yard. So to sum this whole deal up......if you drive into some water and it gets the inside floor board/ carpet wet, check the ECM and the door lock/ security control module. They are both located on or at the front passenger floor board. Peace out and Praise Jesus that I figured this mess out!!!
  • syang001syang001 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 accord with a warped front passenger side. I tried to take the rotor out myself, but it was stuck. I've worked on accords before and this one seemed to be snugged in. Is there a certain way or any advice on how i would be able to take out the warped rotor? Any advice would help greatly. Thanks
  • TrhenningTrhenning Member Posts: 15
    Hello!

    The Rotors on the 95 accord are pressed on or "captured rotors". I have seen it done outside of a shop a few times, but it is a pretty painful process and the new ones generally need to be pressed on as well, usually by a hydraulic press. I have very few complaints about the accords, but the pressed on front rotors are one of them. I usually pay my local import shop about $150 to replace the rotor and bearing at the same time.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    The rotor comes off from the back side.
    It is a pretty big job,
    The unit will need to be removed from the control arms and drive shaft,
    The unit will need to come off the car
    You will destroy the wheel bearing because it will separate when you push it from the housing.
    Honda put the screws to us from 94 thru 97 on this job
    Go here and download this Manual and read up.

    http://manualspace.com/honda-accord-1994-1997-maintenance-service-manual.htm

    Extract with password: manualspace.com

    Reply for more info if needed.
  • zcuizcui Member Posts: 3
    1997 Honda Accord LX - 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 150000 miles

    The odometer stopped work about three weeks ago, and the Check Engine light was ON. While I was thinking to change the VSS, last Friday I think I saw a kind of smoke in the front when I turned off the car at a gas station. I was not quite sure where did the smoke came from. The first thought was dust from the ground since I did not smell anything inside the car. After filled the tank, I started the car and found all meters had no signal, and the Check Engine light was OFF. There was no problem to change the gear. I drove the car home and parked it in the garage. The next day, I found the gear shift was stuck in the Parking and not able to switch to R or D. There was no power window either (I am not sure if it was gone with the gauges at the same time or with the gear shift later.)

    Now, to change the gear shift from P to R or D, I have to insert a key into the Shift Release hole after the car started. The car seems running fine on the road. However, there is no any signal from Temperature Gauge, Tachometer, Speedometer, Trip Meter, Fuel Gauge. Power Window, Clock, and Reverse Light when I shift to R stopped work as well. However, AC, turn signal lights, stop lights, head lights, high lights, Radio, and Cigarette Lighter still work fine. I checked the fuse under hood and dashboard on driver side, all of them are not burnt out.

    Another thing, a few years (3-4 yrs) ago, the Odometer (only) stopped running for several weeks, and then kept working till recently.

    What can cause the problem? What should I check?

    Thanks
    Scott
  • trcrotrcro Member Posts: 1
    my honda accordlx 94 is running hot.the cooling fan will not come on.I un plugged the cooling fan and the other fan is heeping the car cool what can I do to get both fans to work?
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