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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your question has been addressed in your duplicate post in our Answers Department

    YOUR QUESTION IS HERE
  • dburk3dburk3 Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    Hi, Did you find out the problem for you car. We are having the same problems, with my daughters 94 Accord. Can you get back to me Thanks. She is off to college this week.
    DBurk
  • zcuizcui Member Posts: 3
    I found the Meter Fuse under the dash board was burnt out. However, after replace it, the new fuse was burnt out too immediately when started the car. There must be a short somewhere.

    Is it possible caused by the bad VSS, since the VSS had problem before burnt the fuse?

    Thanks
  • zcuizcui Member Posts: 3
    I bought a VSS on online with $40 (Autozone cost $110). However, I have not replaced it yet. I guess this is the first step at least in my case. It seems not easy to replace since there is no much space and may need remove several other parts before reaching the VSS.
  • 94accord_lover94accord_lover Member Posts: 42
    My 94 Accord coupe has a popping noise coming from the front end. It happens when I hit potholes or go over a speed bump. It sounds like a solid "thunk" when I hit bumps. I don't know how better to describe it. I can feel it in my steering wheel, but it doesn't seem to affect handling at all. My dad seems to think that the bushings on the upper control arms are bad, in which I'd have to replace the entire assembly. I think it's either that or the struts, or both. I'm not sure. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Most likely the V.S.S has nothing to do with it. V.S.S sends info to E.C.M, E.C.M sends info to speedometer
    Quick check on V.S.S. is to see if the cruise control maintains a speed. If the speed is maintained the V.S.S. is good.
    You probably have a short some where . The instrument cluster is easy to remove Honda calls the instrument cluster a (Combination Gauge). With the cluster out try the fuse if it does not blow, may be short in cluster, move some wires around under dash and under hood. Be careful with the screws on the back of the Combination Gauge (fragile connections) If nothing works on the Combination Gauge and a fuse is blowing you have a short some where.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    My 94 Accord coupe has a popping noise coming from the front end.

    IIRC, my 95 had a tie rod issue that may be what you are experiencing.
  • anjelanjel Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Accord EX. The wipers come on when I start the car. It's happened randomly about 3 times in the past 6 months. The wiper control is off. I turn it on and off and it doesn't turn off. I also tried restarting the car to see if it would turn off and it didn't. Two of the times, the wipers turned off on it's own when I was waiting at a stop light. The most recent trip was a short one and I believe it turned off after I turned off the car.
  • mfaresmfares Member Posts: 3
    1995 lx accord, auto transmission. During any regular trip, when i stop on a red light or during any jammed traffic, what i am trying to say: when i step on brakes to full stop I will feel the engine hesitating/jerking / big shaking almost engine going to stole, than I shift to neutral situation will be 10% less hesitating/jerking. rpm is normal. i don't feel it while i am driving. any idea what will be the problem?
  • osuskatesosuskates Member Posts: 2
    Problem Summary:

    The car unexpectantly dies within ½ - 1 mile from my house after I start it up first thing in the morning and start driving down the road. The problem is random. It hasn’t done this since I replaced the ignition control module (ICM) on February 8th, but died twice today (February 21th). I have taken about 10 or more trips with the car during this period. Some times I have gone 1-2 days between driving the car. Once I get past the 1 mile mark, without stopping at a nearby grocery, corner store, etc. it runs fine and will run fine the rest of the day. I’ve never had it die after the initial first start of the day *and* within the 1st mile of operation or stopping at a close market/store.

    Additionally, the car idles under 500 RPMs (usually around 400 RPMs). According to my Haynes manual, the idle speed should be between 650 and 750 rpms with IAC valve connected. Also, there is no check engine light before or after the car dies unexpectantly.

    So, now I’m wondering what I should try next to resolve this unsafe issue. Others have reported their cars dying even after running for a long time, but mine so far has only died within the 1st mile after starting it up after sitting overnight *or* for a day or so.

    What would people on this forum suggest I troubleshoot next or try replacing?

    Car: 2.2 liter (4 cylinder) NON-VTEC engine. The faulty ignition starter switch has been replaced (in 2002) that was part of a Honda recall. Local Honda dealership has tested this part and confirmed it is working properly.

    Details:

    On January 27, 2010 I purchased a used 1997 Honda Accord LX that had about 128,400 miles on it. The car had no maintenance records with it, so I was purchasing it “blindly.” When I was initially looking at the car, I started it up and let it run in the dealer lot for a few minutes and a couple of times it stalled while I was checking out the various functions of the car (A/C, door locks, radio, windows, etc.). The dealer chalked it up to the after market car alarm system installed and my extensive testing of the various peripherals. Due to the fact that the car wouldn’t start while the alarm system was engaged, I thought he was right and we just armed/de-armed the system to get the car to start up again. I took the car for a test drive had an independent Honda dealership do a full inspection of the car (worthless in the end) and everything checked out so I purchased the car - which was in excellent shape visually (inside and out).

    Well about two days later the problem with the car not running smoothly started to crop up again. I left my house and drove about ¼ mile down the road to pick up some food before heading to a friend’s house and was in the store about 5 minutes and when I returned to my car, it started fine but stalled and it took me about 3-4 minutes and several tries to get it started and idling correctly. After this it ran fine, but I noticed while I was driving down the road, the tachometer jumped all around for a few seconds before “settling down” (this only happened once). The car ran fine the rest of the night.

    The next day the same thing happened when I went to purchase some fuel injection cleaner (thinking this might be the problem) at the local auto parts store that is ¼ mile from my house. When I got out of the store, I couldn’t get the car started initially. It took several tries before I was able to get it running again.

    The next instance of dying unexpectantly came on a rainy day right after I left my house. Within 1 mile of my house the car unexpectantly died while doing about 40 MPH. I couldn’t get the car restarted, so I had it towed to the dealer I bought it from. We were unable to reproduce the problem, so we expected the alarm system might be faulty causing the engine to cut off unexpectantly. So we disconnected it and I said I would monitor the problem and report back.

    About 2 days later, it died after I turned into the parking lot of the grocery store down the street (about ¾ of a mile down the road). I was unable to get it to stay running each time after I got it started (about twice). I tried holding the RPMs at 2000, but after about 2-3 seconds of running, it would just die cold. I pushed it to the parking area, and called my mechanic and was going to have him listen to problem, and it started up just fine and ran fine.

    After this I turned to the Internet and found several others who were having similar problems with their 1990 vintage Hondas. Many of the experienced Honda techs suggested the ICM module and external coil pack had gone bad (an apparently common problem with Honda Accords from this time period). So, on Feb 8th I replaced the ICM module (the old part was an original Hitachi ICM with the Japanese factory stamp on it) and put silicone heat transfer paste from Radio Shack on the module as well as the heat transfer plate.

    The car has run great with no problems until this morning (February 21th) when it died twice within 1 mile from my house. Both times I was able to get the car to start right up unlike previous times when I had to wait 5+ minutes to get it to start again or try repeatedly for a few minutes. I even let the car warm up for a few minutes in the driveway of my house (this has never made a difference in the ongoing problem).

    Update 10-9-2010:

    Well, I have more concrete evidence to report on my particular problem. It looks like it is weather (temperature specifically) related. I haven't had one single mysterious stall since April/May when the weather here in Florida warmed up (above 80 degrees). Yesterday morning, October 6th, the thermometer said 71 degrees and after I started driving it down the road it stalled again. Two stalls within the first mile on October 7th. I drove the car in the late afternoon on October 8th after the temperature had warmed up, and the car did not die at all.

    I looked at the circuit board for the fuel main relay yesterday (October 8th) and did not see any cracked solder joints which can cause problems. Anyone have any ideas on what parts might be affected by the cold morning temperatures?
  • acuity1997acuity1997 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Accord SE. I have an error message PEO when attempting to play a CD. Is there a way to correct? Thanks much --Ken
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Here is a link where there is a lot of info that may help you. Start with the ignition troubleshooter and flowchart: http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html. Hope this helps.
    Corkscrew
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    PEO is supposed to stand for Player Error Optical. It may be just dirt on the laser. Some folks recommend cleaning the laser lens inside the unit with rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip. Others say you need to replace it.

    It sounds like this can also be caused by high humidity.

    I have no experience with this code... I just googled it.
  • dadajidadaji Member Posts: 4
    I know it is a very noob question, but I have to replace the heater\AC control knob and was wondering that when I buy another one, do I just need to push it in and will it be secure, meaning will it come off if I pull it out?
    Thanks.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    edited October 2010
    You got it.
    Honda Accord Heater knob is very easy to install by sliding off the metal stem.
    :P

    Should be able to find for around $6.00
  • bboy702bboy702 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Honda Accord EX and whenever the car has been sitting for a while, I'll turn the key to the ON position and usually the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is on before I crank the car(most of the time). Usually when this light is on, the starter motor works, but the engine doesn't turn over. But usually about 2-5min, the light shuts off and the car cranks up just fine. Then afterwards, the car acts like a champ during the rest of the day. But waking up the next day knowing the car has been sitting for a while it does it to me again and again. It's just a hassle wating for the check engine light to cut off for my engine to turn over. Help would be appreciated on this issue, trying to get this problem resolved ASAP. Thanks.

    -Matt
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the "check engine" light is on, there should be a code stored. Use this link to retrieve the code (you might have to scroll down a little). Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ecu.html
  • peterorionpeterorion Member Posts: 8
    I am in a pinch with a newly purchased used 1997 Honda Accord LX. The previous owner gave me a heads up concerning starting problems in sub 45 degree temps. I test drove it in slightly warmer temps and it didnt show any symptoms. The seller led me to believe it was a simple fix, "probably a sensor". So I foolishly trusted him and took it directly to a trusted mechanic for diagnostics and repair. Unfortunately it has proved to be quite the enigma even for them. Waiting for the right cold weather spell has been the first challenge to recreate the symptoms. With no codes or check engine light they said to drive it until I could find any symptoms. That very evening I discovered what the seller was referring to. At appx 40 degree temp I had a difficult time getting her started but managed to and drove it 45 miles home in light rain. The car ran fairly well(no stalls or rough idle) but I noticed that the wipers were very slow and the power windows were almost non functional. Once home and after sitting for 30 mins I went back out to run an errand and test the slightly cold start again. No problem and the slow wipers and windows seemed to go away. The next morning however was a no go. The car cranked strong but there was no sign of it getting started. While cranking the battery light was pulsing on and off. Now Ive been through enough alternators and batteries in my days to think it may have been alternator related but after passing that info along to my trusty mechanics they cant seem to figure it out saying it is showing spark. Brief summary is it starts and runs fine when its 50 degrees or warmer but under that it wont start. Plus the unmentioned slow wipers and power windows? Please anyone I am busted as this car replaced a Deer Accident victim that I could barely afford to replace with this nightmare.
  • peterorionpeterorion Member Posts: 8
    I am in a pinch with a newly purchased used 1997 Honda Accord LX. The previous owner gave me a heads up concerning starting problems in sub 45 degree temps. I test drove it in slightly warmer temps and it didnt show any symptoms. The seller led me to believe it was a simple fix, "probably a sensor". So I foolishly trusted him and took it directly to a trusted mechanic for diagnostics and repair. Unfortunately it has proved to be quite the enigma even for them. Waiting for the right cold weather spell has been the first challenge to recreate the symptoms. With no codes or check engine light they said to drive it until I could find any symptoms. That very evening I discovered what the seller was referring to. At appx 40 degree temp I had a difficult time getting her started but managed to and drove it 45 miles home in light rain. The car ran fairly well(no stalls or rough idle) but I noticed that the wipers were very slow and the power windows were almost non functional. Once home and after sitting for 30 mins I went back out to run an errand and test the slightly cold start again. No problem and the slow wipers and windows seemed to go away. The next morning however was a no go. The car cranked strong but there was no sign of it getting started. While cranking the battery light was pulsing on and off. Now Ive been through enough alternators and batteries in my days to think it may have been alternator related but after passing that info along to my trusty mechanics they cant seem to figure it out saying it is showing spark. Brief summary is it starts and runs fine when its 50 degrees or warmer but under that it wont start. Plus the unmentioned slow wipers and power windows? Please anyone I am busted as this car replaced a Deer Accident victim that I could barely afford to replace with this nightmare.
  • osuskatesosuskates Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I'm in a somewhat similar situation as you. The temperature affects the running of my engine. The difference is I can get mine to start every time in the morning when the temperature is around 70 or below, but after about 5 minutes of idling or driving down the road, it will stall. I then wait about 5 minutes and then start the car back up and it runs fine the rest of the day. Never have had a second stall throughout the day. I can drive, park, let it sit, and start it back up and it will run fine. Runs fine all the time in the summer when the weather is really warm here in Florida. Check out my YouTube video of the stalling problem. I still have not figured out the problem and don't have the money right now to just start replacing parts. I know the routine I have to go through everyday to get it running good, so I'm just living with the issue for now. Let me know if you come up with any good suggestions. Every mechanic I've taken it to has been stumped.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNBZ9snNpDc

    -Steve
  • peterorionpeterorion Member Posts: 8
    edited December 2010
    Hey, you might find this helpful. There is a Master mechanic named "Eric the car guy" on you tube who owns an integra and has A++ videos regarding no starts for Hondas/Acuras. One is basic diagnostics for no starts and the other is regarding fuel pump issues which he says are rare. The good news is that he provides some cheaper alternatives to scrapping the car altogether. To get to the chase, he has a video about the "main relay" which is easily located and removed to expose a circuit board with soldered connections? which sometime crack? in adverse temps? He shows how to cheaply fix or one could replace it. I just googled the part which he suggests going with original Honda parts OEM? preferably and its showing up as appx a $70 dollar part with a doable do it yourself instruction. After waiting for two weeks for a trusted mechanic to tell me talk to him Monday I am ready to try this in his junkyard lot and drive it away!!!!!! Only thing I can afford is a positive frame of mind. Thanks for letting me know I'm not alone. Sending a message out into space can be somewhat hopeless. Bright Blessings.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Here is a link to an ignition system troubleshooter. More info can be found under "main relay fix/overview". Hope this helps: http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
    Corkscrew
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    There is also a TSB for battery testing procedures:
    http://www.mediafire.com/?7fmrt991ez2
    Corkscrew
  • peterorionpeterorion Member Posts: 8
    Corkscrew, I wanted to send my sincerest gratitude for trying to help me out. On a weekend no less!!!
  • I noticed a sound today which may be a normal one, but it's never attracted my attention in the past. Anyway, I'm curious as to what the explanation for it is. I have a 95 Accord LX 4 door manual transmission. When you turn the key clockwise to the position just before the start or ignition - the number II position (but don't actually start the car) the lights on the display all come on, and I hear kind of a hum, an electronical sort of sound, as if something were being energized. After a moment or two, the sound stops,and the battery light goes out, as well as the display lights for the open doors and trunk. The other display lights remain on. The fan was in the off position when I did this, so that wasn't what was making the noise.

    As I say, this may be normal and I've just never noticed it before, but if it is abnormal, I wonder if it might be diagnostic of some impending problem? In either case (normal or abnormal) I'd be curious as to what is causing the sound and would appreciate any explanation. Thanks.
  • montijomontijo Member Posts: 15
    That hum you hear is your fuel pump. lol totaly normal dont trip. have a good holiday
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yep; normal. My '96 LX 4-cylinder with an auto does it too - it is indeed the fuel pump. Other cars (not just this series of Accords) do this as well.
  • Thanks for those replies, explanations, & holiday wishes. :)
  • washhousewashhouse Member Posts: 1
  • peterorionpeterorion Member Posts: 8
    Much to my dismay the saga continues after 5 weeks and 2 shops. The most recent shop specializes in electrical diagnostics. Their suggestion which sounded more like a request was to replace the distributor. The problem i am having with that is it has a brand new distributor along with spark plugs and wires all of which are OEM. Additionally, my first mechanic supposedly replaced the ICM within the distributor noting they are notoriously problematic. To repost my enigma, the car starts and runs fine in 50 degree weather but cranks and wont start when it is colder than that. Thanks to corkscrew I am armed with a honda troubleshooting link that goes through more info than one could hope to find. My plea is: Is there anyone that can give me their thoughts regarding a TW sensor aka coolant sensor and could one be faulty enough to create a no spark condition when its cold? Also could the Main relay somehow prevent spark in any way? For history's sake both shops are treading down the same path, poopooing the possibility it may be something out of the ordinary. I was told they use the internet as well, maybe the same website? HELP
  • awaywegoawaywego Member Posts: 3
    My sons car - lights flicker on and off- clicking noise but engine will not turn over - could this be a starter or ???
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    I am giving you a couple of WAG's.

    See if you can eliminate the problem to electrical, fuel or mechanical.
    Buy some starting fluid from parts store, Walmart, etc.
    Find a place that you can introduce some of the fluid into the intake air flow,
    Spray some in and see if the engine fires a few times. If it does it is a fuel problem.
    Connect a timing light and see if it light up (flashes) as you try starting. If it does the distributer is probably okay. You can also pull a plug wire and with a plug held on a ground (metal, screw,etc on engine or frame) and see if there is a spark. A spark would also indicate the distributer is okay. Any wire is okay because you are not checking timing.
    Take a heat gun or hair dryer and warm any/all wire connectors, sensors one at a time to see if the problem is affected and the engine starts. this includes the key switch.
    I would think if you had a problem with a sensor there would be a check engine light on. Sensors can cause the problem. Example temperature sensors tell the ECM on how much fuel to supply.
    Reply for follow up.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Try jumper cables to start or have battery checked at parts store.
    Check for bad battery, cables or loose connections.

    Most parts stores will check/charge battery at no cost
  • awaywegoawaywego Member Posts: 3
    we replaced the battery about 2 months ago - purchased it from Les Schwab? Any other thoughts?
  • awaywegoawaywego Member Posts: 3
    My message is attached to the cold no start msg and it doesn't start due to cold weather. I replaced the timing belt almost 2 years ago and the car has 90k miles - I think after reading your reply it may be the fuel pump as my son is always running the car almost on empty - what your thoughts on this?
    Thanks,
    R
  • a_good_mana_good_man Member Posts: 1
    This dash light is now red. in the past, it went to green after an oil change. not this time. What should I be lookign for to correct??
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Are you sure you are looking at a light.
    All the 94's I have seen have a mechanical type indicator that can be reset with pressing the end of your key in at the indicator.
    Whoever that was changing your oil must have been resetting it but not the last time.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    As omarr said, look for a slot in the dash near the "light". Insert your key, push, and it will reset to green. It's all mechanical.
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  • peterorionpeterorion Member Posts: 8
    So I finally have my 97 Accord back with a laundry list of new parts. If anything, it can be learning lesson for me and others. I also wanted to thank omarr for his great advice of troubleshooting with a heat gun/hairdryer and re thank corkscrew for his help as well.Unfortunately it was already in its second garage with time invested so it was left to them. To get to the chase here is what was done in order. First: a new distributor was installed. At first I was leery of this as the seller had pointed out that he had just installed a new one claiming it to be OEM. It turned out that there was a missing set screw which secures the rotor to the shaft within the cap. It was the first one they had seen like that =no set screw and pre drilled hole. So the rotor was just floating? I did ask 2 see and save all the replaced parts to verify this. I was told that it didn't feel as heavy either so I would guess this was a cheap knockoff. Second. ignition switch. In my one and only drive of this car I had a hard time getting the wheel out of lock position making it almost impossible to turn the key. I'm not sure if this was the main culprit of the no start but it was suggested that I replace it so I agreed. New keys etc it turns like new of course. Included with the switch came a new harness. This was a major bonus for me because I was just reading about some harness nightmares with the 97. I'm guessing Honda did this because of complaints. The old harness was split open and had signs of a modification for probably a car alarm. There was also a splice on an individual wire. Third: New coil, tech said that the original tested ok but was weak on 2 of 4 of the legs. It was already apart so I now have a so so backup if I ever need one. Lastly the ECU was from a junkyard. At this point it didn't surprise me but at least I know. So now I have a new problem. My wipers wont work on relay, no wiper fluid and I have to time turning them off so they are in the down position.? Switch or motor? Harness related?
  • jimdempsterjimdempster Member Posts: 34
    edited January 2011
    Based on the symptoms described, the cause of the engine stalling is caused by fatigue cracking on the soldered fuel main relay mounting tabs.

    This is a Honda ***DESIGN*** problem with the relay - this is one of the few defects in an otherwise very reliable vehicle. The heat produced by normal operation of the relay causes the metal mounting tabs to expand, however the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is rigidly restrained, so the thermal expansion stress is transmitted through the solder joint. Eventually a high number of thermal cycles causes fatigue cracking in the solder joint (which it was not intended to resist).

    Over a number of years, the crack progresses all the way through the joint, however the car will continue to operate as long as the cracked joint can maintain electrical conductivity (such as when it is cool in the winter). When it gets hot however, the combination of normal relay heating added to ambient temperature will expand the main relay solder joint apart and the fuel pump will lose electrical power (and the engine will stall).

    The reason you may not have seen the crack when inspecting it visually is that the crack is finer than a human hair (you will need a 10X magnifying glass to see it - but it is there). The joint will test fine electrically when it is cold, but fail when it is hot. (If you have electrical ability and a schematic from the library, you can *manually* jumper the relay to perform the function the relay ought to performing. The stalled engine will start up and run normally - I operated for several months 'hot-wiring' the relay until I could get time to repair the relay - but I don't recommend this if you can just fix the relay).

    If you're cash-strapped (who isn't these days?) and have a little mechanical ability, you can repair the part yourself (or have a friend do it). You'll need some socket wrenches with extensions to move some electrical boxes out of the way under the dash so the relay can be removed. Pop off the cover on the relay and look at the solder joints under a magnifying glass - there will be an extremely fine crack in the solder joint. Just re-solder the joint to "reset" the solder joint back to factory initial condition (only the main relay tabs are affected, and usually only one joint has a fatigue crack) and reassemble. You will get the same amount of life out of the relay you got the first time (~50,000).

    Alternatively, take the car to the shop and have them replace the relay (~$70 plus labor - takes about 15 minutes if you've done it before). Your engine stalling will be a thing of the past (for the next 50,000 miles anyway - it will last as long as the first relay did).

    Honda is aware this is a problem: I've replaced 4 relays on my and my friend's Hondas - they must have replaced virtually ALL of them. Honda is reluctant to fix the problem. A simple "Z-shaped" stress-relief notch in the PCB (which is commonly done in the consumer electronics world) would reduce the stress below the point it would become a problem. Honda probably figures that 50,000 mile failures will be beyond any warranty problem, and scrapping inventory would be $$$, so the problem persists. The replacement relay you would purchase WILL possess the same exact design defect.

    This is a simple, quick fix for a known common problem on Hondas of this vintage.

    There is a remote possibility that the fuel pump has some weird problem whereby it doesn't produce enough fuel pressure, but this is unlikely. Harbor Freight Tools has a pressure gage ($9) to check the fuel pressure in the injector rack. If the fuel pump is weak, it will register a low pressure on the gage, but a fuel pump is expensive to replace (~$400+) but I've not seen this problem on Hondas. Could be a flaky electrical connection also, but it is *99% sure* it is the fuel main relay.

    Your low idle speed is likely a separate issue. Yes, a low fuel pump pressure could cause low idle speed, but if the pressure was THAT low you'd have problems accelerating away from a stop sign and the car would never operate smoothly.

    Check the basics: The idle speed is computer-controlled, so you would suspect junk in the idle circuit, or more likely, a vacuum leak or unplugged/improperly plugged/cracked vacuum line. Replace any and all suspect vacuum lines (look for cracked rubber). If that doesn't fix the problem, look for vacuum leaks in the manifold area. Check your spark plug gaps. Check for proper operation of the Positive Crankcase Valve (PCV) valve or replace (it's not expensive) and clean out the manifold ports. If all of these items are in good condition, you ought to get a good idle. If not, you have a more complex situation and will need some tools to diagnose - at least the problem will be repeatable and not intermittent or unpredictable (like the relay).
  • jchopyjchopy Member Posts: 1
    My 04 Pilot heater control is not working. When set to Lo I get AC (as expected) but anything above that is full heat. No in-between. Has anyone heard of this or know of a manual or docs that describe the heater control?
  • peterorionpeterorion Member Posts: 8
    Just a suggestion, you may want to weed through this sight to reach a forum that might relate to your vintage/year of Honda/Make. I believe you are posting in the 1994-1997 Accord page. Out of curiosity, I was wondering if you also had a separate AC button as well? If so is that light engaging?
  • woodywwwoodyww Member Posts: 1,806
    A buddy of mine has a '97 Accord w/90K miles. Says it need new struts--it sure seems like it, it rides like a "log wagon"--& the local gas station quoted him $1600 for 4 new struts (!). That sounds insane to me. He also just bought 2 new Yoko. Avids for the fronts--I'm wondering if the worn struts could be wearing out the tires.

    Questions: What should struts cost installed, & what kind to get, & where? I saw someone here got Monroes. Or would OEM Honda struts be best, perhaps installed at a Honda dealer? TIA for any advice.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would think for a car like that something like KYB struts would be fine. The price of parts and installation rather depends on how much you do---if you include struts + strut mounts + 4 wheel alignment + strut mounting fork, that could all get pricey.

    But roughly, ball park? Maybe $1000 -- $1200 bucks for quality parts and quality repairs. Maybe if you cut every corner, $750 to $800.

    Or you can do a down and dirty chain store version but they'll probably try to oversell you.

    And yes, weak struts can wear out tires, mostly definitely---it would be called "cupping" and once a tire exhibits cupping, it's toast.
  • jimdempsterjimdempster Member Posts: 34
    Most of that $1600 is in labor, not parts.
    You didn't describe the type of tire wear. While the struts could contribute to tire wear, it would more likely be the **'scalloped'** type of wear. If you have, however, wear on the **edges** of the tires, this is more likely due to alignment, and/or not rotating tires on schedule (every 5,000 mi). At 90k miles you should be looking at replacing suspension ball joints too.

    If you push down on the fender and the car bounces up more than 1.5 times, the shocks/struts are worn. I have 200k on my Accord and the original struts are still fine - just depends on your situation.
  • karentmkarentm Member Posts: 2
    Going to try that, THANK YOU so much. My odometer only worked part of the time and was going to change the whole assembly. Both my cruise and speedometer worked just fine.
  • karentmkarentm Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 96 Accord only it's my passenger side high beam not working. I changed out my whole head light assembly for both sides and still no high beam on passenger side and me drl don't work. Any ideas? PLEASE?
  • leenygirlleenygirl Member Posts: 5
    I bought this car almost a year ago for $2850, it had only 102K miles, leather interior was flawless, a couple of dings on the exterior, no big deal. After about a month, I noticed the brake pedal sometimes sunk to the floor, had the master cylinder replaced ($450), about 2 months later, the car overheated on the freeway, had to be towed as the cap came off the coolant reservoir and lost all the coolant, fried the radiator cap. Replaced radiator cap, and a week later car overheated again, towed home and took to shop where they replaced the radiator and cap ($200), car started running a little rough so took it to shop for major tune up ($200), no change in rough idle of car which is now worse. Was advised to get front and rear brakes and alignment done ($250) which I did. Temperature gauge stopped working and had temperature sensor replaced ($75), noticed that car would shake and idle rough at stoplights and temp gauge would raise toward HOT when doing so, noticed radiator fan was not coming on when engine got hot. Radiator fan tested fine by mechanic, so he replaced engine coolant switch and thermostat ($85). Started to notice somewhat loud noise when accelerating after shifting while driving, made the car sound like a junk bucket (to me). Lately, gas mileage has decreased noticeably, there is a loss of power, and sometimes while driving, the car feels like it's floating, for lack of a better term, as if it's not getting any gas for a second or two, only air. I know this sounds weird, but it's freaking me out! Also, over the last few days, when stopped at a light, I've felt the brake pedal sink, not all the way down, but alarmingly similar to when the master cylinder was failing. Tonite coming home from work, the car was really shaking when idling at a stoplight, and the dash lights dimmed briefly twice while at the stoplight. I know I probably need to replace the timing belt and water pump since I have no confirmation it's been done. This car now has 108,000 miles, only 6,000 more than it did when I bought it a year ago, and starting today, I am smelling something like burnt plastic while driving. Did I buy a lemon, is this car worth putting more money into, or should I cut my losses? I don't feel safe driving this car!
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    I do not mean anything disrespectful, but it appears you are not able to do any of the repairs yourself. If you are going to own any older vehicle you must be able to do the repairs your self or have a willing friend to help.
    From what I read you have been taken to the cleaners a few times as they say.
    With a little time and about $150.00 dollars would have taken care of all your problems.

    I suggest you sell it to sell it to some one who can give it a good home.
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