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While this WILL improve your gas mileage, it will also cause a loss of power (a 14.7 part air to 1 part fuel is the ideal emmisions point). Anything leaner (say, 16 parts air to 1 part fuel) will result in not only loss of power, but it will burn hotter and lead to overheating. A lean mixture doesn't have as much power, so will also lead to stalling, hesitation problems (but you will get better gas mileage).
Possible causes: The car's computer controls the exact amount of fuel being injected continuously, and corrects for any departure from the ideal 14.7:1 ratio. So why is your car's computer not correcting for the lean mixture? There are two possibilities:
1) there is an "oxygen sensor" in your car's exhaust manifold that senses when the mixture is too lean and is supposed to signal the car's computer to correct for it - but it doesn't appear to be working properly in your case.
The other possibility is 2) that the fuel pump system is just not capable of delivering enough fuel to the fuel injectors, and so even despite the car's computer's best efforts to request more fuel, it just can't pump enough fuel to supply the engine's needs (under certain circumstances).
A good mechanic would have a fuel/air ratio meter and could check the exhaust mixture to confirm if it is too lean or rich - the smog check people used to have this equipment but it's been dumbed down in recent years so I don't know if they could tell you (worth asking). An excessively lean mixture results in high NOx readings (not good for smog). If you had an old smog report, you might see a high NOx reading.
A great mechanic would own a fuel/air meter; they can be purchased for ~$350:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0402_innovate_air_fuel_ratio_meter/inde- - - x.html
There are two relatively simple checks that can be done: 1) have the mechanic take a "plug reading" by pulling the spark plug and looking at it to confirm if the mixture is running lean, (plug will be clean and WHITE, not black with carbon) and if so, consider replacing the oxygen sensor. A oxygen sensor that is mistakenly sending a "too rich" signal will fool the computer into leaning out the mixture. The voltage from the oxygen sensor is measurable and runs about 0.45V; this can be checked at the car's computer to confirm an electrical connection.
Kragen Auto Parts has a replacement oxygen sensor for around $35 while the dealer will charge ~$100 - a special wrench is needed ~$12, plus labor. A broken wire leading from the oxygen sensor would also cause similar problems, but the car would run really bad if at all. Personally, I'd like to confirm with a fuel/air ratio meter before replacing the oxygen sensor, but this is not always practical.
The 2nd simple check is to check the pressure on the fuel injector "rack". The pressure gage can be obtained from Harbor Freight Tools for $9. The pressure should be a specified amount (say, 36 psi - the mechanic should look up the required pressure). If the fuel pump is bad, the pressure may only be 5 psi - which would starve your engine of fuel during acceleration, but the car would idle. A plugged fuel filter ($12) would also limit flow - it's rare these days, but possible. A marginal fuel pump system is really hard to diagnose without the pressure gage, but don't overlook the possibility. Some days the car will work (cold days), but when it gets hot it fails - very tough to diagnose when the problem is intermittent. Fuel pumps are expensive compared to oxygen sensors (~$350-$450).
A improperly operatiing oxygen sensor is most likely. It could cause rough low speed operation, lack of power, poor drivability due to hesitation, overheating, although it might be possible (depending on the computer) that the car could idle, or more likely, the car will idle when it is cold, but start behaving badly as soon as it warms up (the computer gives a slightly richer mixture on cold start).
Another possibility is a vacuum leak (or a vacuum hose that was not replaced where it belonged - look for loose hoses or cracked vacuum line hoses) - a vacuum leak will lower the vacuum, and therefore lower the amount of fuel/air being sucked into the engine, but the oxygen sensor SHOULD compensate for this - to a point. Shouldn't cause overheating if the oxygen sensor is working right. Check for loose wires also (left unplugged from where they belong). I've had rabbits eat my wires, so it's possible that some wires are broken/disconnected, but usually the check engine light will turn on (not necessarily with the oxygen sensor gone bad).
Some of the newer cars have multiple oxygen sensors; if one of them goes bad, the computer will know it and usually will set the 'check engine' light, or certainly be readable from a download off of the car's computer.
A plugged PCV valve can also cause rough operation ($7) - it just needs to be checked that it's not plugged with junk and air can get thru. If the previous owners didn't change their oil often, it tends to get plugged, otherwise it should be OK (won't cause overheating or better gas mileage though).
The burnt plastic smell may be an artifact from an engine that is running very hot, or it could be that plastic has in fact fallen on some hot part in the engine. Be very careful to avoid overheating the engine - a boiled-over radiator is very serious - don't drive the car when it is overheated, park it and call a cab. What happens is that when the engine overheats hot enough, the piston rings will lose their "spring" as a result, and the engine will start burning oil - get the overheating problem fixed pronto. If they put in a new radiator, did they put in a new thermostat?
Your timing belt will either be working great or broken completely - no in-between. Recommendations for timing belt replacement is every 100k miles, although I've gone 185k before replacing and the belt still looked servicable. Replacing a belt is expensive from the labor standpoint, but if you can get the car to operate properly, then consider getting it replaced (along with the water pump). Quotes I've heard are ~$1200 for fan, timing belts and pump with labor - you might do better.
You ought to be able to find someone to fix this problem, but it's amazing how few people that work in the car business seem to know what they are doing. You've done a very good job describing the problem - you ought to be able to take the written statement to a dealer/mechanic and they should be able to diagnose the likely problems (like we did here) withou
If you are having O2 sensor problems, catalytic converter problems how did you get it through inspection?
-What's the normal RPM range for a V-6 Honda motor? At 70 mph, I'm running around 3200 rpms... is that normal?
-My temp gauge is way low (seemingly). Came down a mountain today, temp gauge went below cold. Heat in car didn't work. I'm assuming new thermostat... am I correct? And do i need to replace the gasket on the thermostat if I replace the thermostat?
Thanks!
You should check the coolant level before you do anything. A gauge will not read correctly if the level is too low, and will also read incorrectly if you have air trapped in the cooling system.
You can take your thermostat out and test it, and yes, you do need to replace the gasket as well. I'm not so sure the thermostat is your problem here, but maybe. WIth an old car, who knows what someone else put in there.
A car will tend to run colder when coasting downhill anyway.
Couple other things.
There is a hot water shutoff valve inline with the hose going into heater coil.
lever inline with hose = open, lever 90 degree with hose = off. this will affect air condition and heat. Location, engine side, near fire wall.
Bleed air by opening screw located on or near thermostat housing.
Old hand trick, is the engine hot or cool to touch. Is the radiator hot or cool to touch.
The other possibility is a defective temperature sending unit causing the temperature gage to read low - you can check it by removing the coolant cap, starting the car, and putting a thermometer in the coolant while the car warms up - the thermometer should track the gage on the dash.
Your RPM's depend on whether you have an automatic or manual transmission: automatics run the engine 500 RPM faster than manual transmissions, by design.
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Thank you for your help and time.
Any advice / help will be much appreciated.
Chris
Other known areas where this engine leaks would be the cam sensor gasket and the balance shaft seal.
Did they bleed the system?
There should be a bleeder plug in or near the thermostat housing.
It is also possible to bleed at one of the higher hoses by removing it.
Are you sure it is overheating or is the gauge giving you a false reading?
Could be temperature sensor or gauge is bad.
Are the fans running when hot. If not you need to look at the fan sensors.
The system not being bleed will cause all the sensors to read incorrect.
Look in the radiator cap and see if you can see the water moving.
Joe
http://www.searchrapidshare.com/download.php?id=a0e5afdc99e4a92c03ea&stp=02
Wait for Free Download (timer count down) and download PDF file.
Go to AC/Heater section to trouble shoot
He finally wired a switch betwenn the PCM-FI relay and terminal 4 and 5 so if it does not start you can bump this switch so the fuel pump will start. If
I read that post right I know that board must have a crack and that is why he could not find the problem. We finally drove it last night w.out blinkers and dash lights but I think he knows how to fix that. I am going to suggest he read some of these post though even experienced auto guys need a tune up every now and again. THANKS AGAIN!!!
Looking at the radiator though, you almost get the impression that it is composed of a plastic section mounted on top of a metallic section. If that were the case, and since only the plastic section is at fault, it seems that if one could just remove the plastic section and replace it, you would fix the problem.
So, I guess my question is: is it possible to just remove this plastic section and replace it, and if so, where would you obtain just the plastic section to do that? Thanks for any replies.
Here's ONE EXAMPLE, although I don't know the product so I'm not necessarily recommending it. I'm just trying to give you some ideas and encouragement.
ACCORD REPLACEMENT RADIATORS
This is a common problem with the Accords.
I replaced mine with one from a salvage yard.
I would advise replacing the complete assemble be case the assemble is made up of a lot of circuit boards. could be any one part bad.
Do not let some one tell you it is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
Prove this by turning on the Cruse Control, if the car maintains the speed the VSS is good.
Honda calls the Gauge assemble a "Combination Gauge"
The speedometer head is part of the "Combination Gauge"
Go to this site and download the service manual for the 94-97.
this will show how to remove the the "Combination Gauge"
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
The Gauges are available on Ebay or scrap yards, just make sure they are selling good parts.
Ebay
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=honda+accord+gauge+cluster&_sacat=&_dmpt- - =Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=honda+gauge+cluster&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_- - trksid=p4506.m270.l1313
"Manual and Automatic or ABS "
Make sure the gauge fits your car "Manual and Automatic or ABS " they are different.
Been there done that don't waste money on a speed sensor.
It is a pretty simple thing to replace the combination gauge.
One hour plus/minus. $100.00 plus/minus
Make sure about automatic, manual, ABS brake.
Down load the service manual it will tell you how to remove the gauge.
I try to give correct information when offer input on a problem.
Most likely I have been there and done that, so it comes from past experience.
Some folks try to help but often their info is bogus. so be careful. A lot of good folks on Edmund's, just make sure the advice is from someone who has done the work.
Look at the used tire shops for tires if money is tight.
You can find almost new for third the price of new, usually includes balance and installed. try to match at least two at a time.
Valve cover gasket approximately $25.00. Gasket should include outer perimeter face rubber gasket and spark plug holes rubber gaskets . You will need silicon gasket sealer for the corners at the distributor housing. No big rush on fixing the gasket just put it on the calender to do. Easy job to do.
Down load the manual, you wont regret it
I shut off my car and coasted for about 2 miles then parked it for about 10 minutes. when i got back in, the tranny seemed fine, for about 5 minutes, then it started doing it again.
has anyone had anything similur happen? someone told me it might be my tranny cooloer, something. I dont know.
Determine if you have spark, spark across plug that is connected to plug wire and grounded. on old timing light is excellent for this connect and see if light flashes, flash means spark is good, check all wires.
Check if getting fuel, spray some starter fluid into intake while cranking,
engine should fire on the stater fluid.
Go to this site and download the 94 service manual
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
1) check to see the injectors are connected electrically and are getting power from the computer. You can use a 'noid' light or a voltmeter, as described here:
http://www.ehow.com/how_7290982_test-fuel-injector-voltmeter.html
You have to check because if you are spraying fuel manually, all you know is that the spark works. You don't know if the injectors are connected electrically (could be computer/fuse/wiring, etc.)
2) If you have electrical power to the injector, the next thing to do is measure the pressure in the injector rack. You can get a gauge from Harbor Freight Tools (check on-line too) for about $9-$12.
If you have pressure in the injector rack when cranking (it should be a constant pressure put out by the electric fuel pump), then you have clogged injectors.
Fuel pumps are tricky and expensive - if you are getting intermittent stalls, it could be due to a flaky fuel filter/clogged line/clogged injector/bad electrical, or it could be the fuel pump itself - any of these can cause a loss of fuel pressure. The fuel pressure gauge will definitely tell you if you are maintaining adequate fuel pressure. If you have constant fuel pressure, and electrical signal to the injectors, then it is definitely clogged injectors.