Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

13132343637

Comments

  • leenygirlleenygirl Member Posts: 5
    You're right, I cannot do the repairs myself, I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of my imagination. I bought this car because the price was one I could afford, the owner assured me it had been driven gently, it had low mileage and Honda's have a reputation for being solid vehicles. I agree I have been taken to the cleaners and am afraid the car is a money pit. Will an auto diagnostic show me whether the problems are even more monumental than I realize or is that a waste of my money as well? Single mom here with limited income, I really need to know.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    You took a good gamble. My son is driving my old 95 EX and it has over 230k miles. There are some normal maintenance issues but nothing like you've experienced.
  • peterorionpeterorion Member Posts: 8
    I feel your pain. You will find my posts regarding a cold weather crank no start problem with my 97 Accord Lx. I paid $2000 for it and just shelled out $1250 to an electrical specialist recommended by a trusted mechanic. It turns out that the electrical specialist was wrong and didn't fix my car after all. If it makes you feel any better, since early November I have only driven it a total of four times and have had it towed three. But I am hopeful that I may offer some advice. I truly get that what you bought it for plus what you have put into it will be hard to walk away from. I am in a similar situation and I'm either stupidly stubborn or over zealously determined. First, where is the car from and where are you driving it as far as State/climate. Your brake problem sounds similar to my last car a Honda Civic 99. Bad brake lines, they failed and I almost died. The leaking brake fluid may be hitting your exhaust and giving off that acrid smell. The rough idle and junk bucket sound may be your catalytic converter. A faulty one will cause your car to run rough and can also make it hard to start. Lights dimming may just be symptomatic of the car wanting to stall. You can get the alternator checked at autozone for free. Any check engine lights or codes from the computer? Autozone will check for free. Also it is very important to check the obvious; battery and terminals/muffler exhaust. Maybe you can call for estimates to get a feel for what your looking at price wise. If your going to ditch it, take it to a honda dealer and see what they say. Then take it to another dealer and compare info. Maybe you can shame them into treating you fairly. Unfortunately for us there are way to many posts regarding our vintage of car. If anything you will become more savvy and might even pick up a wrench. PS look up Eric the Car Guy on Youtube. Hes a Honda tech and offers free advice/diagnostics. Do yourself a favor and watch all of his vids. Peter
  • leenygirlleenygirl Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the empathy, Peter. I was told my car was worth $4200 blue book with the low mileage and condition of the car. Now I wonder whether the seller rolled back the odometer or just never drove it much due to it's problematic condition. In any case, at this point I am well over the $4200 invested with the purchase price, repairs done, battery and tires replaced as well, I may not be a mechanic, but I am very proactive when it comes to maintenance. I used to own a 1989 Accord Lxi coupe, loved the car, it ran great, but I sold it a few years back and have regretted it ever since. I am so disappointed that this car has completely skewed my confidence in Hondas, but it's all I have, so I need to live with it for now. The last mechanic that worked on it advised me to take it to a muffler shop to check the catalytic converter, I did research that online, and I have all the symptoms of a faulty cat converter, but they are soooooooo expensive!!Online they only cost about $135, unless you live in California, which I do, and then they cost $350 and up, not to mention labor. Does anyone know, can a timing belt slip during operation of the car, causing a feeling of "coasting or running on air" prior to actually going out? Because of the way my car drives, I don't listen to the radio, I am always listening to any sounds the car makes, and watching for any new symptoms, convinced the car is going to take a dump on me. This sucks. And what else could be causing the burnt plastic smell? This just started, and initial online research says to check the brakes,................wait a minute, I already replaced the master cylinder and front and back brakes! UGH!!
  • jimdempsterjimdempster Member Posts: 34
    edited January 2011
    The way you describe the problem was very helpful, specifically that the gas mileage improved (most people wouldn't think to check it). If this is the case, what is going on is that the fuel/air mixture is getting leaner (less fuel is consumed for a given amount of air).

    While this WILL improve your gas mileage, it will also cause a loss of power (a 14.7 part air to 1 part fuel is the ideal emmisions point). Anything leaner (say, 16 parts air to 1 part fuel) will result in not only loss of power, but it will burn hotter and lead to overheating. A lean mixture doesn't have as much power, so will also lead to stalling, hesitation problems (but you will get better gas mileage).

    Possible causes: The car's computer controls the exact amount of fuel being injected continuously, and corrects for any departure from the ideal 14.7:1 ratio. So why is your car's computer not correcting for the lean mixture? There are two possibilities:

    1) there is an "oxygen sensor" in your car's exhaust manifold that senses when the mixture is too lean and is supposed to signal the car's computer to correct for it - but it doesn't appear to be working properly in your case.

    The other possibility is 2) that the fuel pump system is just not capable of delivering enough fuel to the fuel injectors, and so even despite the car's computer's best efforts to request more fuel, it just can't pump enough fuel to supply the engine's needs (under certain circumstances).

    A good mechanic would have a fuel/air ratio meter and could check the exhaust mixture to confirm if it is too lean or rich - the smog check people used to have this equipment but it's been dumbed down in recent years so I don't know if they could tell you (worth asking). An excessively lean mixture results in high NOx readings (not good for smog). If you had an old smog report, you might see a high NOx reading.

    A great mechanic would own a fuel/air meter; they can be purchased for ~$350:
    http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0402_innovate_air_fuel_ratio_meter/inde- - - x.html

    There are two relatively simple checks that can be done: 1) have the mechanic take a "plug reading" by pulling the spark plug and looking at it to confirm if the mixture is running lean, (plug will be clean and WHITE, not black with carbon) and if so, consider replacing the oxygen sensor. A oxygen sensor that is mistakenly sending a "too rich" signal will fool the computer into leaning out the mixture. The voltage from the oxygen sensor is measurable and runs about 0.45V; this can be checked at the car's computer to confirm an electrical connection.

    Kragen Auto Parts has a replacement oxygen sensor for around $35 while the dealer will charge ~$100 - a special wrench is needed ~$12, plus labor. A broken wire leading from the oxygen sensor would also cause similar problems, but the car would run really bad if at all. Personally, I'd like to confirm with a fuel/air ratio meter before replacing the oxygen sensor, but this is not always practical.

    The 2nd simple check is to check the pressure on the fuel injector "rack". The pressure gage can be obtained from Harbor Freight Tools for $9. The pressure should be a specified amount (say, 36 psi - the mechanic should look up the required pressure). If the fuel pump is bad, the pressure may only be 5 psi - which would starve your engine of fuel during acceleration, but the car would idle. A plugged fuel filter ($12) would also limit flow - it's rare these days, but possible. A marginal fuel pump system is really hard to diagnose without the pressure gage, but don't overlook the possibility. Some days the car will work (cold days), but when it gets hot it fails - very tough to diagnose when the problem is intermittent. Fuel pumps are expensive compared to oxygen sensors (~$350-$450).

    A improperly operatiing oxygen sensor is most likely. It could cause rough low speed operation, lack of power, poor drivability due to hesitation, overheating, although it might be possible (depending on the computer) that the car could idle, or more likely, the car will idle when it is cold, but start behaving badly as soon as it warms up (the computer gives a slightly richer mixture on cold start).

    Another possibility is a vacuum leak (or a vacuum hose that was not replaced where it belonged - look for loose hoses or cracked vacuum line hoses) - a vacuum leak will lower the vacuum, and therefore lower the amount of fuel/air being sucked into the engine, but the oxygen sensor SHOULD compensate for this - to a point. Shouldn't cause overheating if the oxygen sensor is working right. Check for loose wires also (left unplugged from where they belong). I've had rabbits eat my wires, so it's possible that some wires are broken/disconnected, but usually the check engine light will turn on (not necessarily with the oxygen sensor gone bad).

    Some of the newer cars have multiple oxygen sensors; if one of them goes bad, the computer will know it and usually will set the 'check engine' light, or certainly be readable from a download off of the car's computer.

    A plugged PCV valve can also cause rough operation ($7) - it just needs to be checked that it's not plugged with junk and air can get thru. If the previous owners didn't change their oil often, it tends to get plugged, otherwise it should be OK (won't cause overheating or better gas mileage though).

    The burnt plastic smell may be an artifact from an engine that is running very hot, or it could be that plastic has in fact fallen on some hot part in the engine. Be very careful to avoid overheating the engine - a boiled-over radiator is very serious - don't drive the car when it is overheated, park it and call a cab. What happens is that when the engine overheats hot enough, the piston rings will lose their "spring" as a result, and the engine will start burning oil - get the overheating problem fixed pronto. If they put in a new radiator, did they put in a new thermostat?

    Your timing belt will either be working great or broken completely - no in-between. Recommendations for timing belt replacement is every 100k miles, although I've gone 185k before replacing and the belt still looked servicable. Replacing a belt is expensive from the labor standpoint, but if you can get the car to operate properly, then consider getting it replaced (along with the water pump). Quotes I've heard are ~$1200 for fan, timing belts and pump with labor - you might do better.

    You ought to be able to find someone to fix this problem, but it's amazing how few people that work in the car business seem to know what they are doing. You've done a very good job describing the problem - you ought to be able to take the written statement to a dealer/mechanic and they should be able to diagnose the likely problems (like we did here) withou
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited January 2011
    If you are in the San Francisco Bay area, I can send you to mechanics who are highly competent.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    I thought California required a vehicle to pass an emission inspection.
    If you are having O2 sensor problems, catalytic converter problems how did you get it through inspection?
  • tarheelpatriottarheelpatriot Member Posts: 2
  • tarheelpatriottarheelpatriot Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a 1996 Honda Accord. I have two questions:
    -What's the normal RPM range for a V-6 Honda motor? At 70 mph, I'm running around 3200 rpms... is that normal?

    -My temp gauge is way low (seemingly). Came down a mountain today, temp gauge went below cold. Heat in car didn't work. I'm assuming new thermostat... am I correct? And do i need to replace the gasket on the thermostat if I replace the thermostat?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    3200 sounds about right.

    You should check the coolant level before you do anything. A gauge will not read correctly if the level is too low, and will also read incorrectly if you have air trapped in the cooling system.

    You can take your thermostat out and test it, and yes, you do need to replace the gasket as well. I'm not so sure the thermostat is your problem here, but maybe. WIth an old car, who knows what someone else put in there.

    A car will tend to run colder when coasting downhill anyway.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    I agree with your info.

    Couple other things.

    There is a hot water shutoff valve inline with the hose going into heater coil.
    lever inline with hose = open, lever 90 degree with hose = off. this will affect air condition and heat. Location, engine side, near fire wall.

    Bleed air by opening screw located on or near thermostat housing.

    Old hand trick, is the engine hot or cool to touch. Is the radiator hot or cool to touch.
  • jimdempsterjimdempster Member Posts: 34
    I would suspect you have no thermostat at all (it has been removed), or, it is stuck open; otherwise the coolant temperature wouldn't drop below the normal operating temperature. Usually there are problems with the temperature being too high, not too low. Yes, you need a new gasket anytime the thermostat is replaced to avoid O-ring compression set (unless it was a week ago-they're cheap and you don't want a leak).

    The other possibility is a defective temperature sending unit causing the temperature gage to read low - you can check it by removing the coolant cap, starting the car, and putting a thermometer in the coolant while the car warms up - the thermometer should track the gage on the dash.

    Your RPM's depend on whether you have an automatic or manual transmission: automatics run the engine 500 RPM faster than manual transmissions, by design.
  • electrotech1electrotech1 Member Posts: 1
    have you replaced the ignition coil assy, I had problems similar to yours and I replaced the ignition coil assy, all fixed problem gone(two years now) hint is if any tach irregularities at all.
  • leenygirlleenygirl Member Posts: 5
    I wish I were in the Bay Area, but I moved to Modesto 2 years ago, and keep getting juiced by auto mechanics over here. The last mechanic that worked on my car (replaced the radiator, thermostat, engine coolant sensor and temperature sensor, major tune-up, 4 wheel alignment, front and rear brakes, paid him $800!) told me my catalytic converter might be going out. I researched online and found that extreme engine overheating probably had something to do with the cat failing, and that now the failing cat is causing my car to continue to overheat, is that true, and if so, how ironic is that?!! My fuel economy has now dropped sharply, I seem to keep losing coolant, though it hasn't leaked underneath the car or at least that I can see, I have checked the oil to make sure there is no coolant mixed in with it, and just last week when I was driving the car I suddenly found it painful to breathe. It was as if my sinuses were breathing in fiery hot fumes, and I actually began to panic. I rolled down all windows and opened the sunroof and could not get in any air without pain and distress. When I did get home, I ran into my house and immediately found that I could breathe without any discomfort or burning sensation. For lack of automotive technical knowledge, I have to ask, is what I experienced a symptom of an extreme exhaust leak? Is that caused by the catalytic converter going out? I am now afraid to drive this car, and convinced it's going to kill me. I know it sounds dramatic, but this is so scary and unbelievable for me. What would you advise I do to achieve at least a short term fix so I can try to sell the car and get something else that doesn't freak me out everytime I have to go somewhere? I should mention that the interior of the car is immaculate, title is clean, there are some dings on the body but nothing serious, and the car doesn't even have 109,000 miles yet. I've had it for 13 months now, and it's been nothing but trouble for months now. What would you do if you were me?
  • leenygirlleenygirl Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for your words of wisdom, I will definitely take the advice you gave so generously, anything helps at this point!
  • nickcazares01nickcazares01 Member Posts: 3
    Did you find a solution to your problem. I have a 1996 Accord LX 5 speed and I also have NO Dash Lights or Rear Lights. The only thing that works are my head lights. I need solutions PLEASE Anybody
  • alfistaralfistar Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Honda Accord the old Axle broke now that I'm trying to put the new one in it will not go in all the way i have attached a picture of what i think is on the way of the axle can you confirm that and please tell me what i should do next.
    ">

    Thank you for your help and time.
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Member Posts: 6
    I don't see where I can view the pic. But as long as you removed the end that goes into the transmission and the clip on the spline is still on the old one than the new axle should go in really easy. Just --- with one hand holding the outer end of the shaft and the other end holding the inner end. Slide the spline into the trans and push it in as far as it will go. Then put both hands on the outer cv joint, pull it out a very little and then with some force snap (push) it in. It should go right in, just as long as you haven't already damaged the clip on the end of the spline.
  • airbrn508airbrn508 Member Posts: 2
    My honda seems to be leaking oil pretty heavily. It looks like it's coming from the back left corner, as I'm standing infront of the car. I replaced the valve cover gasket. Didn't help. I started the car again, when pressure builds it looks like the oil is coming from the base of the EGR valve area. Could this be possible? Would that mean that oil is getting into my exhaust system? This car has over 210,000 miles. 2.2 VTEC engine. I'd like to fix it myself it possible. I don't want to put a bunch of money in this car.

    Any advice / help will be much appreciated.
    Chris
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Is this at the exhaust manifold bracket, near the AC compressor? If so that's a known issue---a cracked engine boss that holds the exhaust manifold bracket. You'll have to use some kind of bonding sealer on that crack and then attach a new manifold bracket to the AC compressor bracket. If there is no AC, (DX model) you'll have to install an AC bracket.

    Other known areas where this engine leaks would be the cam sensor gasket and the balance shaft seal.
  • airbrn508airbrn508 Member Posts: 2
    Ok, my mistake. I now believe the part I'm referring to is the Solenoid Assembly. I think maybe I need to replace the Solenoid base Gasket. I'll let you know if that was the problem. Thanks for the help.
  • nikkie24nikkie24 Member Posts: 3
    ok so my honda is overheating the water pump thermosate cooling fan and most hoses are new. i looked at the radiator no leaks. what i want to know is there any hoses that are underneith where i cant see from the top? i really need someones help with this one.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    edited May 2011
    Who replaced all the parts?
    Did they bleed the system?
    There should be a bleeder plug in or near the thermostat housing.
    It is also possible to bleed at one of the higher hoses by removing it.
    Are you sure it is overheating or is the gauge giving you a false reading?
    Could be temperature sensor or gauge is bad.
    Are the fans running when hot. If not you need to look at the fan sensors.
    The system not being bleed will cause all the sensors to read incorrect.
    Look in the radiator cap and see if you can see the water moving. :D
  • nikkie24nikkie24 Member Posts: 3
    i changed the parts myself and yea i did bleed it the fans r running like they should yes the water is moving in the radiator my car is overheating i got the waterfall to prove its not giving me a faulse reading u can see it coming out if u look under the car but i cant find where its coming from i dont know if there r hoses some where that i cant see from the top or what
  • tybumtybum Member Posts: 4
    Nikkie, check to see if you have a head casket leak. I did and use a new stop leak from Advance Auto that is guaranteed to fix it. On the second try it did work, pour it in slowly.

    Joe
  • nikkie24nikkie24 Member Posts: 3
    ok thanks i will try that
  • des1243des1243 Member Posts: 2
    From the sounds of your problem it seems that your fan is wired to the air conditioning which isn't the way it should be. You may have to have it rewired to where it's correctly wired and make sure that it won't continuously go because if it does after that then it's connected to the battery and that's wrong to. I hope this might be a consideration in the problem.
  • des1243des1243 Member Posts: 2
    The radiator in the car was replaced recently and the secondary fan never stops going because the repair shop wired it to the battery and it keeps killing the battery in my fiance's car. We had to disconnect it so I was wondering if anyone would know how to rewire the secondary fan so that it isn't wired to anything that it's not supposed to be wired to. I would very much appreciate the help.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    If it were me, I'd take it back to the repair shop and make them do it right.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Go to

    http://www.searchrapidshare.com/download.php?id=a0e5afdc99e4a92c03ea&stp=02

    Wait for Free Download (timer count down) and download PDF file.
    Go to AC/Heater section to trouble shoot
  • mrsdoyle1mrsdoyle1 Member Posts: 1
    My cars has been doing the samething. I cuts off when im comming to a stop or idling. Somthimes the A/C doesnt work too all of a sudden. I had my alternator and battery replaced. It still does the same thing in the middle of traffic. I took it to my guy to find out whats wrong and he couldnt give me an answer. Someone else wrote me though and said she had a steering switch installed, a starter cable assembly and the connector to the positive post was corroded and needed to be replaced. I HAVE NO IDEA what that means. but it hasnt pooped on her in the last 6months yet..must have dont something : (...wish i could find out i just bought this car.
  • dnannerdnanner Member Posts: 2
    Whomever posted this THANK YOU. My husband replaced an engine in a 94 Accord almost three weeks ago. It started the first time and ran for a while checking the temp and such. It would not start again! He has traced every wire and tested every thing going down the pages in the service manual.
    He finally wired a switch betwenn the PCM-FI relay and terminal 4 and 5 so if it does not start you can bump this switch so the fuel pump will start. If
    I read that post right I know that board must have a crack and that is why he could not find the problem. We finally drove it last night w.out blinkers and dash lights but I think he knows how to fix that. I am going to suggest he read some of these post though even experienced auto guys need a tune up every now and again. THANKS AGAIN!!!
  • My 95 Accord LX 4 cylinder 4-door started leaking radiator fluid. It appeared to be coming from the underside of the upper radiator hose, where it attaches to the (Toyo) radiator. Upon removing the hose however, I found that the plastic part of the radiator over which the hose fits had actually broken, causing the leaking problem. I have the Service Manual for this vehicle, and I'm getting the sense from that and from a Parts place on the Internet that the radiator is a one-piece affair, and that the entire thing will now need to be replaced, even though it's just this one plastic "neck" section that seems to be the problem.

    Looking at the radiator though, you almost get the impression that it is composed of a plastic section mounted on top of a metallic section. If that were the case, and since only the plastic section is at fault, it seems that if one could just remove the plastic section and replace it, you would fix the problem.

    So, I guess my question is: is it possible to just remove this plastic section and replace it, and if so, where would you obtain just the plastic section to do that? Thanks for any replies.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I wouldn't bother to try and mickey mouse it--you can buy all aluminum replacement radiators for under $100, and given that overheating is fatal to small alloy engines, it seems prudent to just replace the whole thing, with a superior product at that, and be done with it.

    Here's ONE EXAMPLE, although I don't know the product so I'm not necessarily recommending it. I'm just trying to give you some ideas and encouragement.

    ACCORD REPLACEMENT RADIATORS
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited June 2011
    I guess I figured that would probably be the smart move - thanks for confirming that. I'm inclined to try doing the radiator replacement myself - is that advisable for a relatively adept do-it-yourselfer, or should I leave this job to a professional?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The book says that for a 4 cylinder Accord, 1995, that the labor for a professional mechanic is 1.8 hours with standard transmission and 2.2 hours with automatic (because of the cooler lines to the automatic that you have to deal with). That doesn't sound too intimidating but you should read up on how to re-fill an empty radiator.
  • It took me a little longer (ok, a lot longer, lol) than the 1.8 hours, and I made a couple of boneheaded mistakes along the way (luckily recoverable ones), but it now seems to be working fine - thanks for the encouragement
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I did say "professional" mechanic, so you should still congratulate yourself for jumping in and finishing it. You can't expect to match the time of a trained person who does this day in and day out. I mean, think about how long it would take you to do your own root canals. :P
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    A friend of mine called me today and asked if I could help him with a speedometer problem in his wife's '94 Accord LX . It has 168K on it and has been a great vehicle for them and he feels strongly that it can go another 100k with no problem. He claims that the speedometer needle goes to 20 MPH and that's it, it just sits there and shakes. He's been told that there is NO CABLE on this model Accord with auto trans, and it must be the Vehicle Speed Sensor or something of this nature. I had a '78 Accord myself in the early 80's, and I remember my speedo doing all kinds of things and making such a racket once that I thought it was going to pop out of the dash! But that model had a cable and all I had to do was pull the cable out and coat it with lithium grease and that solved the problem. Now is it possible that it could be the VSS and could anyone tell me where I might look for it- I would think that it would be somewhere on the tranny. If they're gonna keep the car, they need the speedometer working correctly before it's next State Inspection here in Pa in August. I told him we'd get together next Saturday and see what we could find out. But I'd certainly appreciate any help anyone can give me on this. Thanks a bunch and may God Bless!!
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    edited June 2011
    The problem is the speedometer head.
    This is a common problem with the Accords.
    I replaced mine with one from a salvage yard.
    I would advise replacing the complete assemble be case the assemble is made up of a lot of circuit boards. could be any one part bad.

    Do not let some one tell you it is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
    Prove this by turning on the Cruse Control, if the car maintains the speed the VSS is good.

    Honda calls the Gauge assemble a "Combination Gauge"
    The speedometer head is part of the "Combination Gauge"

    Go to this site and download the service manual for the 94-97.
    this will show how to remove the the "Combination Gauge"

    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
    The Gauges are available on Ebay or scrap yards, just make sure they are selling good parts.

    Ebay
    http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=honda+accord+gauge+cluster&_sacat=&_dmpt- - =Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=honda+gauge+cluster&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_- - trksid=p4506.m270.l1313

    "Manual and Automatic or ABS "

    Make sure the gauge fits your car "Manual and Automatic or ABS " they are different.

    Been there done that don't waste money on a speed sensor.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    Thank you omarr for your timely response to this problem. I will call my friend Mario and explain your fix to him and probably print out what you have written. I'm sure he's not gonna be too happy about it as this is quite a bit more work than he thought. I haven't been to the site you listed above yet, but is this a difficult repair? I took apart the instrument cluster on my Dodge Dakota last year to replace a tiny light bulb and I have to say that went smooth. I will tell him that it's the Combination Gauge and I guess we'll have to go from there. There's a local U Pull It salvage yard not far from us that may have that part we need. I'm wondering now what years this Combination Gauge will fit, or is this just something exclusive to the 94 Accord? Anyway, thanks so much for the info and I'll post later how it turned out.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    I believe 1994 through 1997 are the same.
    It is a pretty simple thing to replace the combination gauge.
    One hour plus/minus. $100.00 plus/minus

    Make sure about automatic, manual, ABS brake.

    Down load the service manual it will tell you how to remove the gauge.
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    Many thanks, Omarr, for your response to my friend's speedometer issue on his daughter's '94 Accord. He got a replacement instrument cluster earlier this week at a salvage yard for 75 bucks. We did the job this morning and it went great! Everything works as it should. I drove the car with him right after we got the gauges in without putting all the trim back to make sure it was OK. As I said, the car has over 168k on it, but it has plenty of power for that 2.2 motor and seems run just fine save for a few minor things like the tires, while all are the same size, they are different tread patterns, so I suggested that he or his daughter(most likely HIM) replace them. I pulled off a spark plug wire and noted that there was an accumulation of oil in the hole. Is this normal for this motor? 2 of the 4 had some oil in the hole. I didn't take the plugs out to check them, but as I said the car seems to have plenty of power. Thanks again for the wise advise, Omarr, and have a Blessed day!!
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    edited July 2011
    Thanks for the feed back.
    I try to give correct information when offer input on a problem.
    Most likely I have been there and done that, so it comes from past experience.
    Some folks try to help but often their info is bogus. so be careful. A lot of good folks on Edmund's, just make sure the advice is from someone who has done the work.
    Look at the used tire shops for tires if money is tight.
    You can find almost new for third the price of new, usually includes balance and installed. try to match at least two at a time.

    Valve cover gasket approximately $25.00. Gasket should include outer perimeter face rubber gasket and spark plug holes rubber gaskets . You will need silicon gasket sealer for the corners at the distributor housing. No big rush on fixing the gasket just put it on the calender to do. Easy job to do.

    Down load the manual, you wont regret it
  • damtrudamtru Member Posts: 1
    when my 1997 4 cy automatic honda accord is hot, my tranny slipps out. Then I have to come to a stop, put in in my lowest gear, and i can build up some acceleration and get it back into my lower, regular drive. If I use my regular drive gear, my tranny will disingauge and my rpms shoot up.
    I shut off my car and coasted for about 2 miles then parked it for about 10 minutes. when i got back in, the tranny seemed fine, for about 5 minutes, then it started doing it again.

    has anyone had anything similur happen? someone told me it might be my tranny cooloer, something. I dont know.
  • cecjetsetcecjetset Member Posts: 1
    Help! How do you fix the speedometer when it quits. Also,the odometer and cruise control does not work when speedometer quits. Thanks, Charlotte :(
  • bturner1bturner1 Member Posts: 2
    I sure could use some help I have gone round and round with the starting issues on this 94 accord of my sons. I have replaced distributor (tonight) fuel pump, pgm relay, ignition switch, installed new plugs, along with cap and rotor. the original problem would be turning over but never cranking but if let to sit it would crank the next day or so. after installing distributor I would try to crank but nothing first crank. after two or three cycles of trying to start it will crank and run great. When you turn it off and crank again it will fire right back and run. If you let it sit for a few minutes the same thing happens. It is almost as if its losing its prime or some temp switch is out of wack. I have been working on cars for over thirty years and this has got me. Even my honda contacts and connections are no help! anyone have a suggestion.
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    Do this trouble shooting and re-post.

    Determine if you have spark, spark across plug that is connected to plug wire and grounded. on old timing light is excellent for this connect and see if light flashes, flash means spark is good, check all wires.

    Check if getting fuel, spray some starter fluid into intake while cranking,
    engine should fire on the stater fluid.

    Go to this site and download the 94 service manual

    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • bturner1bturner1 Member Posts: 2
    Yes I have already done this early on, thats when I replaced the main relay and then the fuel pump. and yes it does try to run on the fluid when sprayed in the intake
  • jimdempsterjimdempster Member Posts: 34
    If it runs when fuel is sprayed in the intake, it means you aren't getting fuel from the injectors.

    1) check to see the injectors are connected electrically and are getting power from the computer. You can use a 'noid' light or a voltmeter, as described here:
    http://www.ehow.com/how_7290982_test-fuel-injector-voltmeter.html

    You have to check because if you are spraying fuel manually, all you know is that the spark works. You don't know if the injectors are connected electrically (could be computer/fuse/wiring, etc.)

    2) If you have electrical power to the injector, the next thing to do is measure the pressure in the injector rack. You can get a gauge from Harbor Freight Tools (check on-line too) for about $9-$12.

    If you have pressure in the injector rack when cranking (it should be a constant pressure put out by the electric fuel pump), then you have clogged injectors.

    Fuel pumps are tricky and expensive - if you are getting intermittent stalls, it could be due to a flaky fuel filter/clogged line/clogged injector/bad electrical, or it could be the fuel pump itself - any of these can cause a loss of fuel pressure. The fuel pressure gauge will definitely tell you if you are maintaining adequate fuel pressure. If you have constant fuel pressure, and electrical signal to the injectors, then it is definitely clogged injectors.
Sign In or Register to comment.