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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • domino2332domino2332 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you very much for the indepth response. I will look into it I know I have to replace my EGR valve I just received a 1491 error code. I will take a look at all the possible options.
  • ffreemanffreeman Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for responding. I had the alternator replaced. The battery light has not come on anymore. :) So far, all is ok. thank-you. ;)
  • ffreemanffreeman Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the update on the ABS pumps. I'll probably leave the ABS light as is and use the money elsewhere :D . Just curious, were you told what the fix or resolution is?
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Yup... replace the pump. As I said, common problem for ABS-equipped Hondas and Acuras.
  • bplairdbplaird Member Posts: 4
    '97 accord, 135,000 miles runs great, but has a slight straining/groaning sound at 35-45 mph w/wo ac on; this lasts only a few seconds at a time. Last tune-up was 10 months ago. Need some re-assurance that I'm not facing a major problem! Finances are limited at this time, but afraid if I put it off, it will only get more severe. Reputable mechanic who did last tune-up said he was amazed at the great condition of the car. Any suggestions out there as to my next step??
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    You need to provide more information. Are there any changes in your car recently (before the strange sound started)? What was the last thing you have do something major in your car (anything different to a tune-up)? Have you check all your car belts??. Any new tires?? When was the last time you change the oil of your transmission?
    Anyway, if you are not able to exactly locate the sound then (do this only if all the things I mentioned in my previous paragraph are checked) I'll suggest to raise your car completely and place it over some good jacks... some people like to raise only the front side but for me that doesn't represent your car at the floor level (won't be horizontal). In that position and with the hood open, ask somebody to start and "drive" your car; as soon as you start hearing the sound try to locate where that sound is coming from... if no luck, then as part of the "driving" as your helper to move the wheel to all the right and then try all the left and check for the sound.
    Let us know what you find. Good luck
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    I had a '95 Accord V-6 till I traded it in 8 months ago and I agree that the ABS module is the one element which is the WORST in this model.... Otherwise I LOVED that car very dearly!

    If your ABS light is on, your ABS does NOT work.

    I would suggest:

    A. Open the little gray rubber cap on the top of the module (on your left when you open the hood), and then carefully pull up the plastic cap under it. Add VERY SLOWLY some brake-fluid, and check if you see it rising up in the clear plastic reservoir. If you were low on fluid -- that may fix the problem. You may have a leakage in the system and need to top up every now and then...

    If, after you added the fluid, the light still stays on --- open both caps again, leave the module reservoir open, and then turn on the engine and leave it running for 10 minutes. This way air comes out of the system and the fluid penetrates into the module (this is all based on what happened to me the last time I did it).

    B. You can find a USED ABS Module for less than $200, according to my experience. Just check with the appropriate car-parts dealer. Installing it is about another $150. So instead of $1,200-1,600 (which Honda dealers charge, and they use REBUILT modules, not new), you can do it all for about $350.

    Hope this helps!
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    I hate to say it but its been 4 1/2 months since my last visit to honda and they still haven't gotten the part in. I called them up and they said try back friday. I'm glad its for something minor!

    The good news is that I did redo my window tints. Before, it was all bubbled up in the rear and hard to see through. Like looking through a clear paper cup filled with grape soda! Now its a shade darker all around and now I can feel the difference between the amount of heat. Only paid $100! It was $30 to remove the old tint and $75 for the tint i picked. He just gave it to me for $100. Thats for 5 windows.

    My last few pet peeves to work out are the front window tint, antenna, and dealership. My front window has the stock tint embedded in the glass but the "95" sticker left an imprint that won't go away. So did the "SALE" sticker. Does anyone know how to banish them?

    The antenna won't go up, it won't go down. It makes noise and is still irritating. Suddenly, I remember why I wanted a 1996 or 1997 :sick: ... Oh well.

    Finally is my dealership issue. I'm still waiting for the parts for the TSB to come in. My check engine light greets me daily and i wish it would go away! I really dislike the color orange now! As i mentioned before, the part I need is causing the squealing sound only when the revs are sustained above 3k for cruises or 2.5k when accelerating. They also recommend me change my oil filter, air filter and oil. 1 I can do but the rest, not so much. The dealer is making my MPG suffer because it went from 24mpg city average to around 19city :cry: . BTW, i had my 1st sub $35 fill up. $30 exactly. I'M CELEBRATING TONIGHT :shades: !!

    ps: I forgot to mention how hard it is to find a sale on size p205/60r-15 tires...

    -Cj :sick:
  • joannemjoannem Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Honda accord that is not a V6. Does anyone know if this is actually covered under the service warranty you have mentioned? I have a similar problem with my speedometer, it doesn't go up and down all over the place, it either works or it doesn't. I recently got my radiator replaced and am wondering if maybe the VSS is lose or detached. Do you know how I would check?
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Sorry it isn't. The 98-081 service bulletin is only for 95 accords with a v6, and all hondas from the 1996 and 1997 model year (DEJA VÚ?). Personally I think is just the speedo itself.

    Hope this helps.
    -Cj
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    If your ABS light is on, your ABS does NOT work.

    That's what I thought... until I hit a patch of snow while turning and hit the brakes The ABS kicked in! I asked a dealer about it and he said that it still worked if the light was on. It simply added to my confusion but I know it worked because I could hear and feel it.

    Thanks for the advice though. I may have to look into a used pump now that my son is driving it. Although we don't get much snow here.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    ABS is not only for snowy conditions... You need it all year round. Without ABS your wheels can lock whenever you press hard enough on the brakes, especially on a wet surface.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    As a western Washington native, I know all about having to stop in the rain. ;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I was driving at 55 MPH (the posted limit) on a 4 lane highway yesterday when a traffic light changed in front of me. It was either run the light or slam on the brakes. I hit the brakes, and my ABS kicked in in my 06 Accord; dry weather, 70 degrees, hasn't rained in 2 days, so the road was not slick.

    ABS is GREAT!

    BTW, I've crashed my 96 Accord in a wreck that could've been prevented with A.B.S., so I'm a big proponent of it!
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    Yes, me too. After leasing my first ('93) Camry that came with no ABS and almost got killed, I decided to lease my next one ('96) WITH ABS and since then I wouldn't buy any car without it.... One of the main factors in deciding to buy that '95 Accord (V6EX) for my daughter (which I later kept for myself till 8 month ago) -- was the fact it was equipped with ABS.

    The only problem, this was new technology for Honda at the time, and their ABS technology simply SUCKED...
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yes, one of the few common-problems that seems to plague mid-90s Hondas is ABS system failure. The brakes still work normally, but often times, the ABS pump/unit fails so you are left with simple, locking, brakes.
  • dridmangdridmang Member Posts: 10
    every morning when i start up my car, a huge thick cloud of white smoke seeps out of my exhaust pipe. this would last for about 30 seconds and then go away. but its normal for the rest of the day. this only happens when i first start the vehicle in the mornings. could this be a sign of a blown head gasket? has anyone experienced this problem before?
  • neeper_97neeper_97 Member Posts: 20
    Does the odometer not work also? If it does and the check engine light doesn't come on then have the speedometer checked. If the engine light comes on and your odometer doesn't work,I would say it's the VSS. Try this site for a good price on a VSS. http://www.carpartswholesale.com/store/index.php?catalog=auto+body&cat=31&cylind- er=4&liter=2.2&year=1995&make=Honda&model=ACCORD. You will have to have the computer reset after you change it if the engine light is still on. Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes should reset it. If not Honda can do it. Hope this helps
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    No, its common on cool-to-cold mornings on any car. It is a matter of atmosphere I believe (like blowing out and making white smoke come out of your mouth in freezing weather)... I don't know the exact science of it, but any car starting in below 60 degree weather with the right humidity will do this. My car when it is REALLY cold, say, 20 degrees, will do this for the first mile or two of driving before stopping.

    Just wondering, do you park outside?
  • dridmangdridmang Member Posts: 10
    I do park outside actually. The temperature is around 60-65 degrees. This just started to happen recently, after a long trip on the highway with the AC on for an hour. I also just recently changed my o2 sensor. I have a new radiator installed less than 2 years ago. I mean there is a thick cloud of white smoke that scares away people walking by. I hope this is not a sign of a blown head gasket. Thanks for the reply.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, I believe it is more common on engines parked outside (maybe something to do with moisture buildup burning off?)... my old Accord does it more often when parked outside; same is true of my new one.

    You say it is thick though, maybe run by a mechanic and have it checked out just in case. I wouldn't want you to get stranded somewhere because of something I said!
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    The way you describe the large amount of white smoke, I would suspect that yes, it's antifreeze leaking past the head gasket. Catch a drop or two of the liquid dripping out the exhaust pipe, and rub it between your fingers. Does it feel like water, or does it feel a little slippery? If so, it could be antifreeze.

    Check your fluids for cross contamination, (antifreeze in oil, oil in radiator)

    Also keep an eye on the radiator coolant level.

    Mrbill
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    Hey everyone,

    I have a 1997 LX and it has been giving me some ocassional trouble when starting. I will turn the key all the way, and the dash lights will come on, but the car will not start. The starter will not even engage.

    So I will try it another time or too, and if it still wont start, I will pull the key out and wait a second or so, then try again, and it will start right up.

    It doesnt happen everytime I go to start the car, maybe once every 7 or 8 times.
    Does anyone know what might cause this?

    thanks.

    Nate
  • mford37mford37 Member Posts: 2
    Recently my 1997 Honda Accord has been shutting off randomly while I am driving. It has happened 3 times on the highway when I am driving 70 miles per hour. The wheel locks and I have to pull over to the side and turn it back on. It has no problems turning back on, but usually it will do it again a couple minutes later. Then it won't do it for another two weeks or so....then it happens again. It has happened at various speeds, temperatures, etc. so I really can't figure out a common thread. Any ideas?????
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    You may want to check your ignition switch. I believe Honda had some problems with ignition switches but I don't know if there was ever a recall. I remember reading that the quality was not that good and the problem with them could increase specially if you have your key ring too heavy. Also, I know that over the time it could get dirty inside, so I will recommend to clean it (search for ignition switch in this forum to see how) and remove as much keys from you key ring as you can and see if that solves the problem. If it only improves it, then go ahead and change it. Good luck
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    I'm having the same problem (mine is a '94 accord EX) but I haven't been able to pinpoint the source of the problem yet. Here are some ideas of what you need to check (they are ordered from most probable to less probable):
    - Main relay. It is known that the main relay in accords (before 2000) have been a problem. Seems that the electrical contacts get loose after sometime. You don't need to buy one, just solder again all electrical contacts. Even though a lot of people indicates that this may be the problem, I can not associate a main relay problem with a non spinning starter when turning on the SW.
    - Ignition switch. Seems that after sometime could create a random false contacts. This is the only component that I haven't change.
    - Clutch SW (manual only)
    - Wiring problems. When you turn over the ignition switch your starter needs to at least spin. The only components in the starter circuit are: Ignition SW, fuse, starter cut relay(Manual only), clutch interlock SW(Manual) and starter; make sure the wiring is ok (no false contacts) between all these components.
    - battery
    - Starter
    Good luck.
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    Interesting.

    JJV -- thanks for the help. Mine is a 5sp man, so It could be the clutch switch. I have no experience in doing wiring work on cars. Are these wires difficult to access? Is there a website I can go to or anything you could recommend for seeing a diagram of these wires and switches, including the main relay?

    I appreciate any advice and direction you can help me with.

    thanks,
  • natedeardorffnatedeardorff Member Posts: 17
    Hey check this out:

    http://www.internetautoguide.com/auto-recalls/67-int/1997/honda/accord/se/index.- html

    NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 02V120000 - Hide Details
    Recall Data: 05/16/2002
    Components: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
    Units Affected: 1000000

    1997 HONDA ACCORD ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
    Recall Date: 05/16/2002

    Summary:
    ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.

    Consequence:
    WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.

    Remedy:
    DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE 14, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.

    Potential Units Affected: 1000000

    Notes: HONDA ACCORD
  • mford37mford37 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks! I will look into it / I appreciate your help
  • bdeihl86bdeihl86 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 V6 Honda Accord with 154,000 miles. While driving on the highway a couple days ago my tackometer started dancing around and going crazy. It did this for about 5 minutes before the engine started bogging a little bit. I was about to pull off the highway and everything went back to normal. Late that day driving back my tack started acting up again but the engine was fine. Also, when I start my car, my ABS light comes on even though there is no problem with the ABS. If the light does not come on immediatly, the fuse box makes a buzzing noise anywhere for 5 to 30 seconds before the light comes on and the noise goes off. Im not sure if these two problems are related and I think that the problem with the ABS light is a bad relay. I am far more concerned with my engine bogging. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • jjv99jjv99 Member Posts: 33
    First check if the ECM returns any codes before you change anything. Let us know what you find.

    The only thing I can imagine it could've happened is that the Ignition coil for some reason has send a spike to your tachometer. This current needs to go thru the fuse box before going into your tac.; so maybe some fuses got affected because of this spike (and that is the reason of the strange sounds in your fuse box..which is affecting your ABS panel light)....bottom line check all your fuses and make sure there are no false contacts or strange smells (burning smells).
    Your ignition coil handles very high currents that are sent to the spark plugs and is being controlled by the ICM (Ignition control module). Ignition coil can malfunction creating spikes to its primary solenoid (internally it contains 2 solenoids, the primary solenoid is the one that has less current and it is connected to your tac.) because some internal malfunction on its insulators (this insulators prevents shortcuts between these 2 solenoids).
    How to check malfunction of your Ignition coil in a V6?
    Turn off your engine, disconnect both connectors (high tension lead and the 4 pin connector). If you place in front of the 4-connector and taking the top notch as the upper reference you will have the following arrange of connectors:
    A B --> Upper connectors closest to the top notch
    C D
    First measure the primary resistance (terminals A-C). It should measure 0.3-0.4 Ohms.
    To test the secondary resistance, just place one of your probe on the high tension terminal against terminal A. It should measure 22-34 K ohms.
    Hope this helps. Good luck!
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    tackometer started dancing around and going crazy --- If you mean your SPEEDOMETER dancing, you have a problem with the SPEED SENSOR, which is that little "thing" attached to the Distributor Cap. The "dancing" can also be felt as if the car is "bucking" slightly. You probebly need to replace the Distributor cap too. Your car has passed the 150,000 miles so it's not covered by Honda's special extended warranty anymore, a warranty that would have covered this very problem.

    the fuse box makes a buzzing noise anywhere for 5 to 30 seconds before the light comes on and the noise goes off.--- Actually the buzzing noise really comes from the ABS module. Your ABS is having a problem. Please go back and read what I've suggested about it couple weeks ago here (#518)... This is all based on my own experience.
  • seranikoseraniko Member Posts: 27
    driver's side fan does not kick in...check both fans with 12v source, ok. chk both relays besdie the fan, both ok....didn't do the other relays yet. what's next?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    you checked to see if the relay coil, energized with 12VDC caused the n.c. / n.o. to com continuties to change state, or just that you could hear the relay actuate? big difference.
  • neeper_97neeper_97 Member Posts: 20
    I have a different problem with the ignition switch on my 97 Accord EX. My problem is that the key will not turn at all. The farthest that is will move and that's after jiggling it for a while is just enough to unlock the steering wheel, but not enough to get power to the dash lights. I think that it's just worn out, but does anybody have any experience, ideas or info on this problem?
  • emcsqrdemcsqrd Member Posts: 1
    I recently changed my trans due to slipping. After replacing the tranny the same slipping is still happening. My thought is I used the same black magnetic cylinder and it appeared to not go in correctly. What I need to know is what this black 3 inch long one inch round magnetic cylinder is called so I can order a new one. Anyone know.. THANKS
  • hudgikahudgika Member Posts: 4
    Ok everyone I will try to be to the point .. I need help! I have owned my 1996 Honda accord LX w/113,000 miles for 2 years and it has never not started. Monday morning I stop for gas, get back in my car and it won't start. It sat at the gas station for 9 hours. I go to back to it thinking I will have to jump it but it started. I drove straight to auto store and they said bad battery. I replaced the battery and still no start. The next day I replace the starter, still no start. Several hours after I replace the starter I tried to start the car and it started. I drove it home. The next day again it won't start. I have now replaced the ignition switch and still no start. When you turn the key all lights and radio come on. Any ideas????
  • neeper_97neeper_97 Member Posts: 20
    Do you hear anything when you turn the key? Any clicking? Do you have an aftermarket alarm installed? The reason I ask this is because between my two 97 Accords and my 89 Civic Si I have had the same type of starting problems. Check the battery cables both positive and negative. They may give you enough power for dash lights, but not enough to turn the starter over. The next time the car doesn't start jiggle the battery cables and see if it starts. You may have a loose connection or a corrosion problem. Clean or replace them if necessary. It cost me $15 each, problem fixed. Another time the car would start when it felt like it. I had changed the battery and starter and it still had the same problem. Finally, I got so frustrated I figured what the heck and changed the starter kill relay on my aftermarket alarm. Found out is was sticking open cutting power to the starter. After all that money spent it was just a $5.00 relay. Hope this helps
  • neeper_97neeper_97 Member Posts: 20
    Update,
    Was hoping for bad tumblers in the ignition switch, but the switch just plain wore out. Cost me $300 to have Honda replace and rekey it.
  • hudgikahudgika Member Posts: 4
    Thanks. I believe we may have figured it out. I believe it may have something to do with the relay you mentioned. We figured every time I used my fob to unlock and then my key it would start, but if you did not use the fob to unlock then the car will not start. I know it has something to do with the anti-theft system or alarm. Now that we thought about it being the alarm , I remember a couple of weeks before it started doing this problem it was giving me problems like; the door locks would go up and down by themselves, I would not lock the car and would come back to it and it would be locked, and I would go to unlock it w/the fob and the alarm would go off. So can you tell me where the relay is located?
  • hudgikahudgika Member Posts: 4
    Oh and I forgot ...I am not sure if the alarm is aftermarket or not! Is there a way I can tell?
  • lonus29lonus29 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Honda accord ex with a 2.2 4cyl. automatic. I am having high revs when it goes to shift to 3rd and 4th gear. I don't know that much about transmissions so I was wondering if I am losing my transmission or could it be something simpler or cheaper? :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    How high are you talking here? Granted, it may be a moot point, but it might help some experts here (one of which I'm NOT, even though I have a 1996 2.2L Auto LX). I wish you the best of luck regardless!
  • neeper_97neeper_97 Member Posts: 20
    Sounds like your alarm could be malfunctioning or you just need to disarm your alarm/starter kill using your key fob every time you start your car. If this is different than what you have had to do in the past and it's your only inconvenience just leave it alone. If not, have it looked at. Without looking at your key fob or alarm I can't really tell you if it's a stock alarm or aftermarket. My two 97 Accords didn't have the option of a stock alarm. Take it to a car alarm installation shop or if you know anybody that has any experience with alarms they should be able to tell you. Good luck
  • carrelman2carrelman2 Member Posts: 80
    I own a 1994 Honda Accord with 241,000 miles on it. I love this car and it has been very good to me. All of the standard repairs have been performed that are usually ascribed to a car this age.
    My current problem: losing oil and coolant replacing 1 quart a week.
    My dilema :sick: : I received a quote of $1600 to remove/replace engine head and valve. Replace gaskets and tune up parts.
    The body is in good shape. There is no way I can afford a can afford another car at this time. Possibly a preowned certified one for abut 8K if I sweat it. Shall I put the 94 on life support for another year??????
  • hornedphroghornedphrog Member Posts: 2
    My 1994 Accord will not always start. The ignition/starter makes the usual start-up sounds but the engine never tries to engage. Occasionally the D4 light would flash during this time. I figured out (really dunno how I came up with this one) that if I jumped up on the back bumper, the car would start immediately. It seemed to be related to how much gas was in the car. That worked for 5 months then suddenly no longer worked. Now I have to turn the ignition off and on (without engaging) several times before trying to start it and then it will start. If this stops working I guess I will have to start chanting or something to get it going, I realize my solutions thus far may be more ritual than diagnostic. It never dies or has problems running after it is started.

    Ran the computer analysis (counting blinking lights) and it said there was a problem with the EACV (electronic air control valve?) but dont know if this is even related.

    I'm thinking starter or electrical problem at this point, but it really doesn't account for all of the symptoms. I'm having to do this on a budget, which is why I have waited so long to get it fixed, so has anyone had or seen this type of problem. I do not have enough money to fix a list of parts to weed out the problem. Thanks.
  • seranikoseraniko Member Posts: 27
    if your monthly repair bills exceed your monthly payment for the car....time to shop for a replacement. with your mileage a lot of other parts needs replacement sooner or later. it's all economics in your case.
  • hornedphroghornedphrog Member Posts: 2
    No monthly payment, it has been paid off for years so a $1000 in repairs for the year is still cheaper than buying into a new car. I agree that soon a change will be necessary, but right now, it is nice not having a monthly payment, and it should run to at least 300k
  • blackexv6blackexv6 Member Posts: 503
    I agree, your 1994 Accord should last +300k miles. $1000 in repairs may not be a bad way to go. Are you sure nothing else needs replacement? Tires, brakes, struts?

    IMO, if you decide to replace the car buy a brand new one. Used car prices (especially Honda) are crazy. You can get a new '07 Accord LX for around $18k.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It really depends on whether your old car is in line for OTHER repairs in the near future, like said.

    There is some risk in putting a new or rebuilt cylinder head on an old engine. If the old engine is very worn internally, a new head and the increased compression coming from that renewal might pound the heck out of old bearings and rings. So you might start burning even more oil than you do now. That's a possibility you might have to live with.

    But if the internals on the engine are sound, you might get away just fine.
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