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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You could have had air trapped in the heater/engine initially, which has now purged itself.

    With the radiator cold, you should refill both the radiator and the overflow tank....and watch it for the next 500 miles to make sure you don't have another occurence where the antifreeze level drops.

    You need to be on the lookout for either a leak in the coolant system (radiator, hoses, waterpump, etc), or a blown headgasket in the engine. The headgasket could cause antifreeze to be lost into either the engine oil, or out the exhaust (both bad situations). Check your engine oil level with the dipstick, to make sure it isn't over the top fill line....and make sure it's clear/black oil (not creamy).

    Goodluck
  • pj_columbiapj_columbia Member Posts: 12
    Sandieh - My wife arrived home after her big trip and had no problem on the drive back from the Mid-West. However, we discussed the occasions when she had the problems and each time it was hot and muggy. So, I'm thinking it's also the main relay. It's supposed to be hot and muggy starting today, so we may experience the same symptoms. Hope you've had good luck getting your problems fixed. Let us know if you are successful. And Thanks to Elroy for providing the link to the techauto site.

    PJ
  • scooterscarscooterscar Member Posts: 1
    My car is a black 95 honda accord with a V6 engine. I was on my way home last night when I was stopped at a red light. When it changed to green I put my foot on the gas and it would not move. The engine just reeved up. I then tried to use drive 3 and still the car would not move. Finally I used the third gear which is marked 2 which I drove in for about 20km. I checked the tranny fluid when i got home and it was oka. There did not seem to be any burning smell or leaking. I don't know much about transmissions. I hope somebody can give me some good advice on what I should expect the diagnosis to be at the mechanic shop.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I hope somebody can give me some good advice on what I should expect the diagnosis to be at the mechanic shop.

    Is your D4 light flashing or staying on (when it shouldn't be)? It could be a shift solenoid that's stuck too. Has the fluid ever been changed? How many miles? Have you been having problems with it before this happened?
  • zanza247zanza247 Member Posts: 1
    i drive a 95 accord and iv just put a large amount of money into it :cry: and it seems that my car just seems to have a new problem after i fix something.
    at this point i had left my car to go somewhere and i came back and my car wouldnt start.
    well my D4 is flashing and i dont know why and the car turns over.
    i know it cant be the:starter,distributor, alternator, or any belts because i just replaced all of them and they are all brand new :sick:

    any suggestions???

    it also to me seems like im getting very bad gas mileage im getting something lik 15-16. and for a sedan i found that to be surprising.

    it just seems like this car might be a lemon :lemon:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If your D4 light is flashing, the computer has stored a transmission code. If you go to Autozone, Advance, or some other parts stores, you can get the code read free (I think). I have pasted a link below with some information on this. Just click on transmission at the left. It's a great site (especially for older Accords). Good luck
    http://techauto.bravehost.com/
  • only95konly95k Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your reply and advice on my 1997 Accord. I did as you suggested and now at 95,755 my 97 Accord isn't using any water. Sounds like there was some air in the system.

    However, the car is running hotter. Specifically, the temp gauge before I had the radiator and thermostat replaced was always at 4pm, no matter the load or weather. Now, the gauge goes up to just before 3pm above 50 mph or if I use the A/C. Also, the cooling fan goes off more often. The 3pm position is ok per the owner’s manual. The shop I took it to has double-checked the cooling system and they said to let me know if it goes above 3pm. They also confirmed the new parts meet Honda specifications. Am I being overly concerned? :confuse:

    Thank you
    only95k
  • mrgold35mrgold35 Member Posts: 73
    My 97 Accord I-4 with 160,000 experience the same symptoms right before the transmission completely gave out 3 days later. The cheapest I could find around town to replace the tranny with a rebuilt was $1800 (Honda wanted $3800).

    I went on-line and purchased a used Japanese Accord tranny w/ less than 30,000 miles for $595+shipping and mailed the tranny to a local mechanic to put it in for a total cost of $1100. It has been +7 months and the car feels even better than before. This was the only major problem I’ve had with this car other than A/C condenser cooling fan going out twice.

    http://www.asapmotors.com/used-transmissions-honda-c-249_262.html?zenid=805f705c0003ce1b6627d699ab7c8788
  • craigchatscraigchats Member Posts: 1
    If the speedometer works but the odometer doesn't you might want to try resetting the maintenance required light - just use your key to push in the button next to it. It worked for me - I just found out about it but my odometer hasn't been working for the last 2 years, and now it works!!
    Note, you may want to do it while driving and hold it in for a little bit if it doesn't work the first time.
  • shadingdingshadingding Member Posts: 16
    I drive 97honda accord LX with 82K. The pointers(techometer and speedometer) suddenly went down after I pushed cruise control button while I drove on highway a week ago. I guessed the battery had gone out because it at least is for 10yrs, so I bought a brand new one. This morning (a week apart) those pointers goes out after about 5 miles driving. I shut off engine with my check engine light on. I try to restart my engine, it won't start with no any sound.

    What could be a problem?

    thanks
    shadingding
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    I wouldn't think the battery would have any thing to do with the tachometer and speedometer.

    Battery and no start different issue, check your cables and wiring.

    Suggest you look at VSS.
    Go to http://techauto.tripod.com/ and check VSS.
    If you need a VSS don't get ripped off by over priced.

    Look at http://www.doctorautoparts.com/sites/drAutoParts/index.cfm
    $45.00 VS advance auto and others $100 plus for same part.

    VSS will give check engine light
    P0500--VSS Circuit Malfunction (M/T)
    P0501--VSS Circuit Range/Performance (A/T)
  • shadingdingshadingding Member Posts: 16
    thanks omarr for your reply. It is in the middle of day, in center Texas. I tried to start my engine a few mins ago, it worked. When turned signal light on (or reading light), the tachometer went zero again. No start after shutting engine off. If these more symptoms could help with diagnosis.

    thanks again.

    sdd
  • bteddliebteddlie Member Posts: 5
    Hello all,

    96 EX 4 cyl vtec 169K miles

    I've got a belt that sqeals at engine start and when the AC compressor first engages. After a short warm up, the belt quits sqealing when the compressor engages.

    I've inspected the belt and it looks fine. I then tried to adjust the alternator to tighten the belt. Per my Haynes repair manual, I loosened the pivot bolt at the back of the alternator and then turned the adjustment bolt at the bottom of the alternator . If I did lefty-loosey, of course, the adjustment bolt loosened but that didn't seem right. So I did righty-tighty and leaned on it hard. I re-tightend the pivot bolt. I still have the sqeal.

    The tension on the belt seems about right, per the manual (3/8 - 1/2"). But if it sqeals it must be too loose, right?

    Is there something else I can check or is my alternator adjustment technique incorrect?

    Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance.

    Brian
  • shadingdingshadingding Member Posts: 16
    just a feedback.

    There is a loose bolt on alternator causing no charge on battery.

    thanks.

    sdd
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Squealing usually from one of three reasons:
    - the belt is too loose
    - the belt is worn
    - the compressor is bad and putting too much of a load, which is impossible for any belt to turn it.

    If it was my vehicle, I would replace the belt as they are relatively cheap, and as such would eliminate the first two of these problems. If the squealing continues with the new belt, suspect air conditioning compressor concerns.
  • squidfishsquidfish Member Posts: 2
    hi have just getting a 1994 honda accord 4 door the fob was not working so put new battries in still no joy someone has told me it needs reset can anyone help ? :shades:
  • edandtom1edandtom1 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 1994 300k miles. Someone tried to break in and messed up the locking system just after I bought it. The locking system still works but it still goes into the lock and unlock stage. Mine has done that for about 13 years now so I wouldn't sweat it.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Member Posts: 707
    the gauge goes up to just before 3pm -- which is the MID POINT, right? Then all is good. No worry. Even at 3pm or even slightly above it, it's normal (hot day, lots of A/C).
  • yemmyemm Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1992 4-dr. Honda Accord and lately I have been having a difficult time getting it to start. Once it starts and I shut off the engine after driving, it starts right back up. It is just the initial time of starting that it has difficulty catching and turning over. It seems to happen whether it is warm or cold.. as I live in a tropical whether-humidity is strong here. I have tried everything-fuel filter change, ignition part changed, sparks plugs, battery, timing belt, carburetor deep clean,adjust the timing cycle...Some mechanics insist should be the fuel pump others that is the start engine. Please, I need some advice here..Thanks/ Desperate!
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    A few things.

    1 - This probably technically belongs in the 90-93 forum since you have a '92 (though your problem is general).

    2 - Are there any codes?

    3 - (not incredibly important) Unless you have a very special '92 you actually don't have a carburetor, it's FI.

    4 - Possibly engine coolant temp. sensor or something else operating temperature related?

    5 - Can you hear the click of the main relay and the engaging of the fuel pump when there is a no start condition?

    You basically only need fuel, spark, and compression to start a car so it has to be one of these areas.
    Here is a website that takes a lighthearted approach at giving you a trouble tree to run through.
    No go ;(
  • yemmyemm Member Posts: 2
    thank you for the tips...

    My car is not FI- actually my car is a Honda 1992 - 1993 Accord EX 2.2L, 4 Cylinder..and it has indeed a carburetor, located exactly where the air filter is

    #5..yes and I can hear the click of the main relay
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I was pretty darn sure that by 1990, all Accords had EFI.

    Edmunds agrees. Here's an excerpt from their "Model History" of the Accord, this particular section speaks about the 1990 model. (Skip to the last paragraph).
    **********
    Home > Honda > Accord

    Honda Accord History

    1990-1993

    The 1990 Accord was completely revamped, inside and out. The fourth-generation Accord grew in size, power and popularity (in fact, the Accord was the best-selling car in America for three years in a row, 1990-1992.) The hatchback was dropped, leaving a notchback coupe and a four-door sedan as available choices. Wheelbase was increased by nearly 5 inches (now 107.1 inches), and weight went up, though even the heaviest Accord, the EX four-door, still weighed less than 3000 pounds. Styling in and out was very clean and purposeful, with a low beltline, large greenhouse (window area) and slim roof pillars that minimized blind spots. The uncluttered and chiseled appearance of the '90 Accord gave an overall impression of quality and solidity. This notion was confirmed when one simply hopped in the car and shut the door or turned a knob to put on the headlights. Doors shut with a solid "thunk" and switchgear had a precise and satisfying action.

    In keeping with Honda's logical system of offering a few versions of each car with increasing standard features (as opposed to the American car makers' philosophy of offering a confusing array of options and option packages), three trim levels were available. One could choose a basic DX, a well-equipped LX (which, as before, had power windows/locks/mirrors, cruise control, A/C and a decent stereo cassette all standard) or the top-shelf EX (which added a power moonroof, alloy wheels and 5 more horsepower to an LX).

    On the mechanical side, carburetors were history, as fuel injection was made standard on all Accords. The new 2.2-liter engine pumped out 125 horsepower in DX and LX trims, and 130 horses in the EX. Other changes included electronic control for the automatic transmission and motorized front shoulder belts (the latter to satisfy government safety requirements).
    **********
    The link to this page is here
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    You sure you don't have one of these sitting up in your engine right at the top near the windshield? ;)image
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Go to this link and click on "overview"
    http://religion.p5.org.uk/techauto/mainrelaydefine.html Do these systems apply to you? The main relay controls the fuel pump. If you live in a hot climate where the temperature is 90F/34C and the cabin temp is high, check out the main relay. The two words in your post that caught my attention are "tropical and humidity" Hope this helps
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    OOPS..under main relay symptoms click on green arrow for carb models. Yes indeed sports fans, some had carburetors. ;)
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Good page!

    As far as carbs go, yes the page does have info for non-FI vehicles but that doesn't mean that his 92 has a carb. If you notice, in the same paragraph you get when you follow the green "carb" arrow it specifies that the location is for second generation accords. 90-93 is third gen.

    Anyway, good link at least.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    Hello Yemm,
    As a frequent traveler I remember seeing carbureted autos in europe in the early 90s. Do you reside outside of the U.S.? In any case, if your mechanic says you have a carbureator look at the fuel pump.

    Regards
    Corkscrew
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    As far as carbs go, yes the page does have info for non-FI vehicles but that doesn't mean that his 92 has a carb. If you notice, in the same paragraph you get when you follow the green "carb" arrow it specifies that the location is for second generation accords. 90-93 is third gen.

    You are right, no carbs after 1989 for US Accords (the 2.2L was the only engine, and its fuel injected.)

    But, the 1990-1993 is the fourth generation. :)
  • gallonofwatergallonofwater Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1994 Honda Accord with a break light/rear light problem. Whether the car is on or not the rear light (dim light not the break light but still the same bulb) stays on and wont turn off unless i disconnect the battery. I checked all of the fuses and the lights still stay on. Does anyone else know what is wrong with me car? Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I suspect the brake position switch is either broken mis aligned, or needs adjustment. the switch is located either above or below the brake pedal. You may have to remove the lower panel on the dash to find it. Good luck.

    PS: If the car is an automatic, is it difficult to get the shift position lever out of park? Or more likely in this case, will it move out of park, without pressing the brake pedal. This could confirm some things.
  • ddunbarddunbar Member Posts: 31
    My 1995 Accord Wagon has 106,000 miles on it. I've owned it for a little over 2 years now. The rear brake calipers recently froze and so I just replaced those plus pads and rotors. The tires also need replacement now. The car is a little bouncy and so my mechanic recommends replacing the struts when I get the new tires so as not to damage them. I also have just noticed a leak in the exhaust, and it seems I need a new muffler and pipe between the muffler and catalytic converter. Final bill including the work I just had done on the rear brakes is around $2300. Is it time to sell it off rather than putting more money into the tires/struts/exhaust? Or, am I likely to be past big repair bills for awhile?

    One more note. The transmission seems to work fine, but my mechanic noticed the car is a bit slow to get into gear. Is this a sign of trouble ahead soon? The transmission fluid looks fine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    With 106,000 miles, you are a long way from the end of your car's life.

    I have a 1996 Accord with 174k miles on it and it costs about $300 a year to keep running (only about one repair a year).

    The transmission is nothing to worry about if it is shifting fine up through the gears. He's probably used to a different car. Mine takes a second or more sometimes to get into gear.

    The 4-cylinder Accords from this (and the previous) generation (1990-1997) are just incredibly bulletproof. I have honestly never heard of a transmission problem out of a car like ours. As for exhaust, shocks, and brakes, well, that's something that won't need fixing again for another long period of time - its just maintenance. I actually have the original shocks/struts on my car.

    Let me ask you though, have you had the timing belt replaced already? If not, you should have at 90,000 miles.
  • ddunbarddunbar Member Posts: 31
    Thanks much. I did have the timing belt replace at 90K.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    dunbar,

    Any relation to Dances w/Wolves?
  • ddunbarddunbar Member Posts: 31
    One might think so, but John is actually my middle name.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Just curious and polling people...

    How much should I expect to pay for an Auto-Transmission flush?

    (not that it matters, but I'm asking about my 1996 4-cyl Accord).
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    Indeed they are 4th gen, that'll teach me to write things at 3am local time....;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Trust me, I've made that mistake before too... it makes you say crazy things, doesn't it!! :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I would expect $150 (9 quarts of fluid and 1.5 hours labor) from what the going rates are these days. But then I haven't had a mechanic look at any of my vehicles in 15 years or more (so what do I know ;) ). When are you going to do it? What do you think?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I may get it done tomorrow. I had no idea how much it costs to get it done.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Grad, just shop the price on the net then get your dealer to match. I got new fluid for $50. Always use Honda brand fluid, the trans is finicky.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Oh, I knew to use only Honda fluid. My local dealer just changed hands and is now money hungry (the minimum oil change went from $23.95 to $38.

    So, i hate to go back there.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Bummer. My dealer changes my oil for $10. I provide the filter and the Mobil 1.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yeah... I'll be taking my newer car to the dealer while it is still under warranty, but for my '96, I'll be going elsewhere. The timing belt is coming up too. My granddad called the dealership and they wanted $720 to do the timing belt and water pump. The mechanic he went to (someone he's used before and trusts) changed timing belt, water pump, and all the belts for less than $500.

    On a college student budget (working part time), $200 is huge.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Understand. Maybe it would be less expensive to sell the 96 and just have 1 car. Just my .02.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yeah, except my parents have just moved back to AL (5 hours from me at the Gulf Coast) from OK and may be needing that car to have at their new home in Gulf Shores. They currently pay the insurance on it, so it was worth it to me to keep it running.

    So, it really doesn't cost much to me in actuality. There are a lot more details that would explain my family's rationale for me having the main access to two cars, but I have neither the time nor energy tonight!
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Sure if they pay the insurance,etc.,that helps. No explanation needed.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, there's no etc...

    :) That car has been in my family since Nov. 1995, so it is long paid for. I just keep it running, and they keep it insured. We also keep it because I am cheaper to insure in that car than my 2006 Accord (which will be my primary car after college - my parents promised a new car if I got a full ride to college. I delivered, and they did too).

    Instead of selling the '96, at the time, it was our third car in the family of three. My parents recently moved across the country (Birmingham to Oklahoma City) and now have moved back to Alabama, to Gulf Shores. They didn't want to drive the '96 across the country, but now, I imagine they'll take the '96 away soon. They currently are using just one car, their Atomic 2007 Civic EX Sedan.

    That's the short version.

    I'm outta here, good night blufz and everyone else! :)
  • philly2dabayphilly2dabay Member Posts: 2
    MY 1995 HONDA ACCORD HAS BEEN ACTING FUNNY LATELY. FIRST, THE GAUGE LIGHT WENT OUT. THEN, THE FRONT AMBER LIGHTS WENT OUT ALONE WITH MY TAIL LIGHTS. MY BRAKE LIGHTS WORK FINE. I GOT PULLED OVER BY A COP THE OTHER DAY BECAUSE MY TAIL LIGHTS WERE NOT ON. WHAT'S GOING ON WITH MY CAR....AND HOW CAN I FIX THIS? I ALREADY CHECKED THE FUSES.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I suppose it could be the combination switch (the switch that turns the lights on). You would have to test it to be sure. The brake lights are controlled only by the brake pedal position switch, and will work without the combination switch.
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