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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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  • gogetergogeter Member Posts: 5
    Just did a emission test back in June 2007 in PA and passed. At that time, there's no broken fuse. Today, I went to a goodyear garage to do VA emission test, and was told that their computer can not communicate with the PCM on the car, so it failed. I do have a broken fuse for the radio/cigar lighter, and I know the audio system is protected by a security code. I wonder if this is the cause of the loss of the communication. Can replacing the fuse, inputing back the security code for the ratio solve the problem? Thank you for your suggestions.
  • yankeey2gyankeey2g Member Posts: 5
    Hey Guys:

    I have a 97 Accord LX (2.2L, auto) with 60,300 miles. My MPG per fill-up (13 gallons) is HORRIBLE. I’m averaging ONLY 14 miles per gallon city. HORRIBLE for a 2.2L 4-banger. I’m trying to figure out why the mpg is so bad.

    I’m the 3 owner of this car. I’m not sure what type of maintenance the other guys did. I just did a tune up (plug wires, NKG plugs, fuel filter, distributor cap etc). I haven’t done the timing-set yet...soon. While the car was getting a tune up, I noticed the muffler was completed dead – it was rotten and almost disconnected from the rest of the system. I’ve tried all 3 grades of fuel and the result was the same. I even drove “easy” after 1 fill-up and got the same result.

    Furthermore, not only is city mpg bad but also highway. I went on a little highway trip this morning. 60 miles and almost quarter of a tank was used. I averaged about 65-75 miles per hour speed.

    Does anyone have any idea as to this problem? What else can in do? I KNOW the MPG should be a better.

    Thanks in advance.
    Damian
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Is the check engine light on? and/or are there any error codes in the computer?

    When you took the plugs out, what did the old plugs look like? That is a good indication of how well the mixture is being burnt.
  • yankeey2gyankeey2g Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for replying.

    NO, the shop didn’t check for error codes in the computer. i will go back and ask them to check it. and the check engine light is not one. i had an oil change on 7/31 (when i took delivery from the dealer). I plan on changing the oil every 3-months even though i do less 500 miles a month.

    The old spark plug was pretty bad. The tip was charred. i bought NGK plug wires and NGK laser platium spark plugs.

    How can i find out if the fuel mixture is good or bad?
    Thanks again
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    So one plug looked different than the rest? A charred tip is very suspicious, given the relatively low mileage that you have. If so, then perhaps you have a blown head gasket, an intake manifold leak, or a valve bad in that cylinder. You might want to have a compression check done on the cylinders.

    If all the plugs looked the same, then you need to compare the plugs to pictures which show when they're burning an oily mixture, or a too lean mixture, etc. Perhaps you can find some pictures by searching the internet if you are not familiar with how a plug should look.

    If all of the plugs look the same, then you look towards common items like fuel mixture, high voltage electrical, sensors, etc. Those items would effect the burning in all of the cylinders.

    And this muffler situation, is that problem just the original muffler rusted out and was never replaced....or if you look at the exhaust pipe, the deposits are also pointing to an incorrectly running engine?

    Do you have state emissions in your state, and did it pass when you bought the vehicle?
  • leodogleodog Member Posts: 7
    What is the best way to get those pressed on front rotors off ? I have new rotors and then found out what a pain there were to change. Do I need to remove the strut assembly and then press the hub out of the knuckle or is there an easier way?
  • mikpalmmikpalm Member Posts: 2
    I have 95 Accord EX the heater motor just quit one day. have had motor out it works fine, the electical schematic shows a realy and rheostat before the motor anyone know where these are located? or any other suggestions
    thanks mikpalm
  • forgopforgop Member Posts: 16
    I bought the '97 w/ 158k miles on Sunday and brought it home. I paid $3500 and it drives great.

    I had assumed it would have keyless entry and CD, but it didn't. The CD is no big deal as the GPS system I'm getting has mp3 capability, but the keyless entry would be nice. Any suggestions for getting a Honda system as they cannot be purchased from Honda anymore?
  • sam421sam421 Member Posts: 14
    Do a search on the internet (i.e. e-Bay.com, etc.). I love my 1996 Honda Accord. Had an inital problem with a CEL but that has been resolved for months. I put a new exhaust syatem in and front axles and the car is running like new! I paid $1700.00 and put $800 into it. I think it was well worth it. Good Luck! :D
  • accord97exaccord97ex Member Posts: 2
    I am the 2nd owner of a 97 Honda Accord with 98K miles. I am facing prominent jerks while accelerating or slowing down. The gear shifts seem to be very hard. I got the transmission fluid replaced, but the performance has not improved. Can anyone suggest what could be the issue? Transmission change looks like a very expensive option.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Cleaning the shift solenoids could help. Any idea how dirty the fluid was before the change? It could also be a speed sensor, but not likely. Is the check engine light or D4 light on the dash on or blinking, when it shouldn't be? This link has more detailed information on the transmission. Hope it helps. It is for older Accord transmissions, but it may help you. Good luck.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
  • accord97exaccord97ex Member Posts: 2
    The fluid was nearly black when I got it changed. None of the lights are blinking on the dashboard. I checked out the link you gave, has valuable information. Thanks very much. I hope its not a serious problem, will check with a Honda Dealer probably.
  • user5user5 Member Posts: 8
    1997 Honda Accord Lx, 4-dr, auto, a/c, 137000 miles. Replaced radiator and water hose (radiator to engine) last year. This year the hose split/cracked longitudinally. Dealer/service tells me that the replaced the hose and tested the cooling sytem. They think that head gasket needs replacement - the gas pressure from the engine leaks into th cooling system, that is why the hose split.

    I ca get the head gasket replaced, but once you open the engine do you know what you are getting into? Additional head/valve job, piston/cylinder/rings job?

    2 yrs ago I spent like $3k on miscellaneous items. O.therwise it is in great condition.

    Any experience like this?
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    You don,t change the head gasket because they !!!!!!!!! THINK !!!!!! the head gasket needs replaced. If they tested the cooling system they would know !!!!!!!! FOR SURE.
    The radiator cap would relieve the pressure if excessive pressure was introduced from engine compression. I think you had a bad hose from your information.

    Even if you replaced the head gasket, I wouldn't do anything to the head unless there is something that indicates a need. Low compression, oil loss around the valve stems usually indicated by exhaust smoke at startup after setting for a good length of time.

    You need to find a better mechanic/ Dealer/service sounds like they are ready to rip you off.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Here's the link: lil_llama89, "Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair" #958, 11 Nov 2007 5:55 pm.
  • googieboygoogieboy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX 4 door 4 cyl. SOHC. I wanted to change the thermostat because a friend of mine said that the temperature gauge goes normal to hot back to normal then to hot. I was looking in the engine but have no idea where the thermostat is located and how to change it. Can someone tell me where it is at and how to change it? Thanks
  • cknapp58cknapp58 Member Posts: 5
    Hi everyone,
    Does anyone know where I can download a good manaul similar to what is used at a dealership
    Tomorrow I am removing a F22B motor on a 1996 accord LX and installing a 1995 motor from Japan. The Japanese motor doesn't have a sensor on the oil pump. I can't find my Haynes manual which I thought was ok at best. I really don't want to buy another hanynes manual tomorrow. I need to pull the front of this motor apart tomorrow. Can anyone think of anything I should watch out for other than pinning the counter weight.
    Be careful if you buy a 1996 Japanese motor. You will end up with a 1994-5 that the supplier changes the oil pump and charges you 200 more. I'm short for time the supplier put the screws to me. After setting the whole thing up a week ago, they waited for me to take the day off drive 50 miles to tell me there is no warranty because I am swapping the pump. I called them from an add on Ebay and they knew this is what I was doing. They wanted 200 more for a 96. After they put me on the spot I said I would take the 96. One of the guys slipped and said there was no time to take one of the motors and install a pump with the sensor.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    If nobody else gets back to you, you could try www.helminc.com

    Approximately how much are replacement engines for an old Accord? I assume they are rebuilt, correct?........ and you have to return your old block. Are these short blocks or long blocks?
  • cknapp58cknapp58 Member Posts: 5
    Kiawah,

    The motor is a used motor from Japan, cost 450.00. I found out that 450 to 500.00 it the normal price. There are alot of companies importing these motors all over the US. I saw the same adds being run for months. Apparently you have to rebuild or install a crate motor at what I was told 60K due to smog.
  • cbpentoncbpenton Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the original tires that came on this vehicle? I am buying a used accord that shows 152K on title but only 52K on odometer. Thank you in advance.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    You can always try the TireRack web-site:
    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TRSelectAutoMakeAndYear.jsp
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    All is fine with my accord. I filled up yesterday at HESS and accidently put 89octane inside the tank :surprise: . I tell you this is the best my car has ran in a long time! All that jerking from before has gone and it rides like new! I hope it stays that way when i go back to regular in about a week... :P I didn't even notice a difference in price because gas has been changing in price so much lately but its starting to settle a bit at $3.10-$3.20 for regular.

    I'm still working on that odometer.... and power antenna... But otherwise, All is fine after 1.7years. Just that the colder (70-80º instead of 90º) temperatures have made the mpg drop a bit. Its usually about 68º in the morning when I leave (6:50am) and 85º when I leave school around 3pm. Now i just drive with the windows and sunroof open which still doesn't help much.

    As a sidenote, I bought one of those carspace license plate brackets. It looks nice on my accord! If only the white paint matched the white on the bracket... Oh well, it still looks good!

    -Cj :) :shades:
  • kychriskychris Member Posts: 1
    I have removed the screws that hold the cover on the dash. I have found four screws but I am being held up around the controls and center vents. how do I get this section loose
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I just replaced the temperature knob in my 1996 Accord for the umpteenth time. All you do is pull it off, pull the metal sleve off of the male coupling, and stick the new knob on.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sure you don't mean the temperature control knob? It's usually the one that cracks from the cable binding. You have to turn the knob slloooowwllly, without too much force, to avoid cracking the knob.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well I said temperature knob, I figured that was close enough. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sorry grad, I saw Fan control on the titles, and got discombobulated. :blush: But the real point was to help save someone from cracking anymore knobs. The cable binds up, if you turn the knob too quickly, and it can be prevented by allowing the tension to release. :D
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yeah, this was actually the first "twist" of the season. I didn't make it 4 clicks before it broke.

    The price of the knobs has gone up...$5.92 this time. It was less than 4 last time. :(
  • fdongerfdonger Member Posts: 1
    hello. I have a Honda 95 Accord. the cigaratte lighter has worked fine for years. recently, i pulled out a cell phone charger and the whole thing fell apart mechanically in pieces.

    i guess i need to replace it, but i'm not sure how it's supposed to be put back together. any tips on what i should do? should i buy the mechanics manual and buy the parts from honda?

    this is my first post.
    thanks
    fdonger
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I'm sure dealerships stock up on these knobs around this time of year, ;) when people start turning the knobs from cool to hot.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Yep. I'm happy to have an electronically controlled knob in my 06, instead of the mechanical linkage. They did that starting in 1998 thankfully.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    Try Majestic Honda's webpage:
    Generic link:
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

    Specific Link:
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1995&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=CONSOLE
  • okami1okami1 Member Posts: 9
    Hey All,

    Just went in for a quick oil change and the mechanic said I have a major oil leak and I need to change my oil rings. Or atleast thats what I think he said. He told me it would cost about 165$. Does this sound about right? I can post a picture tonight but how hard would it to be to change this myself? and if not myself what would the parts be called so I can order it online. Thanks for any help you can give me! My card is hitting 230,000 and eventhough the exterior is a little worn the engine has been a trooper!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the mechanic is talking about the O-rings under the rocker arm assembly (non Vtec engine), the O-rings are probably less than $5.00, but changing them is not easy. You have to know what you are doing to attempt this project. Sounds like a good price, if that is the actual problem.
  • okami1okami1 Member Posts: 9
    Do you know a place online I can order these? I have a buddy that lives a little farther off but he's a mechanic and lately been paying him to teach me when he fixes my car. Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think it would be #19 in this illustration. I just took a shot at your year and model. This is what came up for a 95 LX. If this is what's leaking. Is the oil entering the spark plug tubes?

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1995&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+HEAD- +%281%29
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    It sounds like you don’t have a clue what you are talking about.
    How can you fix anything when you don’t have a clue about what the problem is.

    It may be simple or it may be difficult.. You must be specific about the problem if you want good information.
  • okami1okami1 Member Posts: 9
    Wow have you read my follows ups or my full question. Right now I have this information

    Mechanic I never been too mentioned it was something like Oil Rings - Cost 160+
    Oil is visible on engine parts.

    What I asked for
    How hard would an installation be.
    How much and where would I find it online to purchase oil rings (94 LX Accord)

    Extra fact : I have a mechanic friend that can teach me how to fix it while he does it.

    Tell me with that line of questioning and information what else would I need other than to make sure i'm buying the right part. Know where to buy the right part, and then give it to my mechanic friend to fix and teach?

    Or did I somehow offend you mr high and mighty? I think that even if I was deaf and dumb if I knew what part to buy and had the motor and cognitive skills to bring it to a trusted mechanic friend then I should be fine am I wrong? Only reason I don't ask him right away is because since its a favor I'm TRYING to find enough information to make it as easy as possible for him.
  • okami1okami1 Member Posts: 9
    Oh and Elroy! Thanks for the info. I'll look at the spark plugs tonight. I replaced them with my friend about 6 months ago so should be easy to see if there is new oil in there. I'll try posting a picture to make sure.

    Thanks again!
  • omarromarr Member Posts: 88
    A mechanic mentioning was something like Oil Rings doesn't cut it.

    It sounds like this mechanic has a sucker on the hook.

    Where is the leak. top, bottom, front, back. internal engine, external engine?

    Is there any oil on the ground?

    If you have a picture post it.
  • okami1okami1 Member Posts: 9
    The whole reason for the post was to make sure the mechanic wasn't just straight lying. First indication would be overcharging for the job which is why i asked. And BTW how does it make me a sucker when I'm finding out myself whats up? You are a funny cat. If I knew all the details and could fix it myself easily why would I even post in the forum?

    Currently at work without a camera so will be posting them as soon as I can. It's an old car and in it's final years but currently broke because of a family incident so trying to save money and stretch it's life a little longer
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There is no such part as Oil Rings, so I assumed you were talking about O-rings. If you can see oil around the outside of the engine, the O-rings are not the problem. Ok, you finally said 94 LX, right? How many doors? Automatic or Standard transmission? Vtec or Non Vtec engine (if it's a Vtec engine it will say so on the top of the engine).
  • larockon0311larockon0311 Member Posts: 1
    Well me and a friend were driving down the highway doing about 95 mph when all of a sudden the dash lights went out. Also when we got home the rear running lights were no longer working so we had to take the car off the road because it was illegal. What could be a solution to fix this problem..Any ideas !! Thankyou
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Do you have the "BRAKE LAMP" malfuntion indicator lamp lit?

    I do find it funny that you took the car off the road because having the real taillights out was illegal... as if 95MPH wasn't!

    What year/how many miles/what model car do you have?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i presume the multi-function switch has gone bad or the connection to same is loose.

    also check your dashboard intensity adjustment with the parking lights on.

    maybe you just need new back light bulbs perhaps never noticing they were burnt out before.
  • anjelanjel Member Posts: 3
    I have an automatic 94 Accord EX. This morning I started the car as usual. When I put it into reverse, the engine turned off. This happened twice. Later in the afternoon the car started normally. Any ideas what could be wrong?
  • cknapp58cknapp58 Member Posts: 5
    Hi guys,
    I think I am getting into this kind of late, I just took a Japanese f22b2 and swapped it over to a 1996 smog motor. It has been fun. I hope it fires up this Saturday!!!
    As for oil leaks, a mechanic should diagnose an oil leak to where it is coming from. After swapping the front case so I could install the crank sensors. I saw that you could have an oil lead from one of the following areas. A mechanic should narrow it down to the area

    Front of the motor
    1. Front case ----- unlikely
    2. Front crank seal – common
    3. Front balance shaft seal
    4. Rear balance shaft seal
    5. Rear balance shaft gear box o ring ----- UN likely
    6. Front section of oil pan.
    7. Front cam seal
    8. Front area of valve cover

    Rear of engine
    1. rear main seal housing ------ unlikely
    2. rear main crank seal – common
    3. rear section of oil pan
    4. distributor o ring

    Fire wall side
    1. oil pressure sensor
    2. oil filter
    3. oil pan side
    4. head gasket side -------- unlikely
    5. valve cover side

    Radiator side
    1. side of valve cover
    2. side of head gasket -------- unlikely
    3. side of oil pan

    Note the oil pan seems to be a good design an unlikely to leak.

    Hope this helps
  • ashawashaw Member Posts: 1
    Greetings. The heater in my 94 Accord blows cold air. I have replaced the thermostat, but no help.

    Can someone point me to the most likely causes aside from the thermostat? Thanks
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    There is an in-line valve in one of the heater hoses. When you turn the "temp" knob on the dash, the cable opens/closes the valve. Usually they are mounted to the rear of the engine compartment, just in front of the fire wall. I'm guessing that something is disconnected/broke, and the valve isn't opening.

    Mrbill
  • bambu151bambu151 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 honda accord wagon, manual trans ive replaced the radiator water pump and belt thomostat fans turn on i have fluid in my radiator what could be the problem
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