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I have a 97 Accord LX (2.2L, auto) with 60,300 miles. My MPG per fill-up (13 gallons) is HORRIBLE. I’m averaging ONLY 14 miles per gallon city. HORRIBLE for a 2.2L 4-banger. I’m trying to figure out why the mpg is so bad.
I’m the 3 owner of this car. I’m not sure what type of maintenance the other guys did. I just did a tune up (plug wires, NKG plugs, fuel filter, distributor cap etc). I haven’t done the timing-set yet...soon. While the car was getting a tune up, I noticed the muffler was completed dead – it was rotten and almost disconnected from the rest of the system. I’ve tried all 3 grades of fuel and the result was the same. I even drove “easy” after 1 fill-up and got the same result.
Furthermore, not only is city mpg bad but also highway. I went on a little highway trip this morning. 60 miles and almost quarter of a tank was used. I averaged about 65-75 miles per hour speed.
Does anyone have any idea as to this problem? What else can in do? I KNOW the MPG should be a better.
Thanks in advance.
Damian
When you took the plugs out, what did the old plugs look like? That is a good indication of how well the mixture is being burnt.
NO, the shop didn’t check for error codes in the computer. i will go back and ask them to check it. and the check engine light is not one. i had an oil change on 7/31 (when i took delivery from the dealer). I plan on changing the oil every 3-months even though i do less 500 miles a month.
The old spark plug was pretty bad. The tip was charred. i bought NGK plug wires and NGK laser platium spark plugs.
How can i find out if the fuel mixture is good or bad?
Thanks again
If all the plugs looked the same, then you need to compare the plugs to pictures which show when they're burning an oily mixture, or a too lean mixture, etc. Perhaps you can find some pictures by searching the internet if you are not familiar with how a plug should look.
If all of the plugs look the same, then you look towards common items like fuel mixture, high voltage electrical, sensors, etc. Those items would effect the burning in all of the cylinders.
And this muffler situation, is that problem just the original muffler rusted out and was never replaced....or if you look at the exhaust pipe, the deposits are also pointing to an incorrectly running engine?
Do you have state emissions in your state, and did it pass when you bought the vehicle?
thanks mikpalm
I had assumed it would have keyless entry and CD, but it didn't. The CD is no big deal as the GPS system I'm getting has mp3 capability, but the keyless entry would be nice. Any suggestions for getting a Honda system as they cannot be purchased from Honda anymore?
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
I ca get the head gasket replaced, but once you open the engine do you know what you are getting into? Additional head/valve job, piston/cylinder/rings job?
2 yrs ago I spent like $3k on miscellaneous items. O.therwise it is in great condition.
Any experience like this?
The radiator cap would relieve the pressure if excessive pressure was introduced from engine compression. I think you had a bad hose from your information.
Even if you replaced the head gasket, I wouldn't do anything to the head unless there is something that indicates a need. Low compression, oil loss around the valve stems usually indicated by exhaust smoke at startup after setting for a good length of time.
You need to find a better mechanic/ Dealer/service sounds like they are ready to rip you off.
Does anyone know where I can download a good manaul similar to what is used at a dealership
Tomorrow I am removing a F22B motor on a 1996 accord LX and installing a 1995 motor from Japan. The Japanese motor doesn't have a sensor on the oil pump. I can't find my Haynes manual which I thought was ok at best. I really don't want to buy another hanynes manual tomorrow. I need to pull the front of this motor apart tomorrow. Can anyone think of anything I should watch out for other than pinning the counter weight.
Be careful if you buy a 1996 Japanese motor. You will end up with a 1994-5 that the supplier changes the oil pump and charges you 200 more. I'm short for time the supplier put the screws to me. After setting the whole thing up a week ago, they waited for me to take the day off drive 50 miles to tell me there is no warranty because I am swapping the pump. I called them from an add on Ebay and they knew this is what I was doing. They wanted 200 more for a 96. After they put me on the spot I said I would take the 96. One of the guys slipped and said there was no time to take one of the motors and install a pump with the sensor.
Approximately how much are replacement engines for an old Accord? I assume they are rebuilt, correct?........ and you have to return your old block. Are these short blocks or long blocks?
The motor is a used motor from Japan, cost 450.00. I found out that 450 to 500.00 it the normal price. There are alot of companies importing these motors all over the US. I saw the same adds being run for months. Apparently you have to rebuild or install a crate motor at what I was told 60K due to smog.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TRSelectAutoMakeAndYear.jsp
I'm still working on that odometer.... and power antenna... But otherwise, All is fine after 1.7years. Just that the colder (70-80º instead of 90º) temperatures have made the mpg drop a bit. Its usually about 68º in the morning when I leave (6:50am) and 85º when I leave school around 3pm. Now i just drive with the windows and sunroof open which still doesn't help much.
As a sidenote, I bought one of those carspace license plate brackets. It looks nice on my accord! If only the white paint matched the white on the bracket... Oh well, it still looks good!
-Cj :shades:
The price of the knobs has gone up...$5.92 this time. It was less than 4 last time.
i guess i need to replace it, but i'm not sure how it's supposed to be put back together. any tips on what i should do? should i buy the mechanics manual and buy the parts from honda?
this is my first post.
thanks
fdonger
Generic link:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
Specific Link:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1995&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=CONSOLE
Just went in for a quick oil change and the mechanic said I have a major oil leak and I need to change my oil rings. Or atleast thats what I think he said. He told me it would cost about 165$. Does this sound about right? I can post a picture tonight but how hard would it to be to change this myself? and if not myself what would the parts be called so I can order it online. Thanks for any help you can give me! My card is hitting 230,000 and eventhough the exterior is a little worn the engine has been a trooper!
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1995&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+HEAD- +%281%29
How can you fix anything when you don’t have a clue about what the problem is.
It may be simple or it may be difficult.. You must be specific about the problem if you want good information.
Mechanic I never been too mentioned it was something like Oil Rings - Cost 160+
Oil is visible on engine parts.
What I asked for
How hard would an installation be.
How much and where would I find it online to purchase oil rings (94 LX Accord)
Extra fact : I have a mechanic friend that can teach me how to fix it while he does it.
Tell me with that line of questioning and information what else would I need other than to make sure i'm buying the right part. Know where to buy the right part, and then give it to my mechanic friend to fix and teach?
Or did I somehow offend you mr high and mighty? I think that even if I was deaf and dumb if I knew what part to buy and had the motor and cognitive skills to bring it to a trusted mechanic friend then I should be fine am I wrong? Only reason I don't ask him right away is because since its a favor I'm TRYING to find enough information to make it as easy as possible for him.
Thanks again!
It sounds like this mechanic has a sucker on the hook.
Where is the leak. top, bottom, front, back. internal engine, external engine?
Is there any oil on the ground?
If you have a picture post it.
Currently at work without a camera so will be posting them as soon as I can. It's an old car and in it's final years but currently broke because of a family incident so trying to save money and stretch it's life a little longer
I do find it funny that you took the car off the road because having the real taillights out was illegal... as if 95MPH wasn't!
What year/how many miles/what model car do you have?
also check your dashboard intensity adjustment with the parking lights on.
maybe you just need new back light bulbs perhaps never noticing they were burnt out before.
I think I am getting into this kind of late, I just took a Japanese f22b2 and swapped it over to a 1996 smog motor. It has been fun. I hope it fires up this Saturday!!!
As for oil leaks, a mechanic should diagnose an oil leak to where it is coming from. After swapping the front case so I could install the crank sensors. I saw that you could have an oil lead from one of the following areas. A mechanic should narrow it down to the area
Front of the motor
1. Front case ----- unlikely
2. Front crank seal – common
3. Front balance shaft seal
4. Rear balance shaft seal
5. Rear balance shaft gear box o ring ----- UN likely
6. Front section of oil pan.
7. Front cam seal
8. Front area of valve cover
Rear of engine
1. rear main seal housing ------ unlikely
2. rear main crank seal – common
3. rear section of oil pan
4. distributor o ring
Fire wall side
1. oil pressure sensor
2. oil filter
3. oil pan side
4. head gasket side -------- unlikely
5. valve cover side
Radiator side
1. side of valve cover
2. side of head gasket -------- unlikely
3. side of oil pan
Note the oil pan seems to be a good design an unlikely to leak.
Hope this helps
Can someone point me to the most likely causes aside from the thermostat? Thanks
Mrbill