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I have only one key to my honda accord-v6. Can any one tell me,
1. where to get or make the duplicate key
2. how much time does it take
3. cost.
Honda Accord 2000 V6 4 Dr, key has remote unlock/lock feature and has a battery as well as the physical key for ignition and doors and dikey
A single physical/metal key for all operations, lock unlock, dickey, panic
I don't mind a duplicate physical only key too without remote feature (without remote lock/ unlock feature) which may be cheap I guess.
Thank you
I placed the order today with Majestic Honda. About an hour later they emailed me indicating that there is a $75 charge when sales are made to Canadians. Apparently this covers duties and taxes. In the past Majestic was billed customs for additional delivery charges, duties and taxes.
I called Majestic back because I don't believe that there are any duties on these parts (US made). Also the taxes are easily calculated and don't add up to $75.
Apparently majestic does this to all Canadian orders. Has anyone else experienced this?
Regards
Ivica
The funny part is that I took the car to get a NY inspection yesterday, after it passed I tried to start it up to leave but my car had other plans. The mechanic on duty said that I probably need a new distributor (but I believe my car does not have a distributor). The mechanic then held down the gas and idled the car at about 1.5 until the car could run on it's own. My parting gift for this was that now the check engine light is on....Arghhhhhh!
Any ideas how to remedy this issue?
I changed the spark plugs and air filter less than three weeks ago.
car used to start and engine would stop before I change the gear..
Anyone have any addl thoughts re this??
I have an 02 Accord, the car is in perfect shape, never been in an accident.
A few weeks back, when I was unloading groceries, I found a lot of condensation of the underside of the trunk lid. Thinking that this was from the frozen food, didn't give much thought to this at the time.
Another time when I opened the trunk, the entire trunk mat was wet, condensation all over the underside of the trunk lid, and water in the spare tire well. I blotted it up using a shammy.
I have an extended warranty for my car - would this be covered?
make sure the rubber gasket isn't torn anywhere around the perimeter of the trunk.
i'd also make sure there isn't any built-up dirt / grime / leaves / pine straw resulting in blockage from the water moving freely in the channel where the gasket lies.
make sure the trunk lid isn't mis-aligned.
see if there is condensate in one of the rear light lenses.
if you suspect the gasget / trunk-lid alignment, perhaps i might use some construction paper placed around on top of the gasket, hit the vehicle with a hose and see where the paper is wet on both sides of the gasket.
My guess is a leak in the rubber gasket, but with the amount of water accumulating, it would seem that I didn't have a the gasket at all.
Last night, the car alarm kept going off and I determined it must be all water somehow telling the car the trunk is open. How do I know this?
Go to lock the doors - I see the doors lock however the lights do not flash. Open and close trunk, hit the the door lock button - I get the visual indicators that the car is fully armed, press a second time and the horn honks.
Wife got really upset waking up every hour to disarm the alarm. Left the doors unlocked last night.
I'm hoping that Honda will fix this for me under my extended warranty, otherwise I'll be searching for the leak myself.
Thanks in advance
http://www.motors.ebay.com/?_trksid=m37
When you get there, under "Parts and Accessories" choose "Manuals & Literature." There's about 50,000 (literally) things listed, but there are various ways you can narrow the search way down. I've purchased several Accord dealer brochures there, and I've noticed there are always tons of owners manuals and service manuals for sale.
If this link doesn't work right, just go to eBay's site and choose "Motors" to get to the same place. Good hunting.
Jim
My 1996 4-cyl requires a timing belt change at 90k miles, but my grandmother's 2002 (which would be the same as a 1998) requires it at 105k miles.
I recently bought 2000 Honda Accord SE ULEV with 85K miles. I am third owner of the car.
Everything has been going on great except two problems:
1) Brake indicator on the dashboard remains on for about 10-12 mins after I start the car in the cold mornings. Later during the day, unless car is sitting in real cold, it does not come on. I searched this forum and figured that it is due to the cold the brake fluid contracts and float sinks lower than it is supposed to. For the safety, I checked brake fluid level is which is quite full and I haven't experienced much difference in the breaking of the car. Is there a way I can get rid of this problem without having to wait for engine to warm up and heat the master cylinder?
2) My gas tank was getting real empty. I guess only a gallon or less was left. As I was driving towards gas station, hoping that the car would reach, the Check Engine Indicator Light came on. I immediately felt this could be due to sensor getting some bad gas as the tank was getting empty. I got the gas and tightened the cap. Later I checked the manual and it said that it could happen due to lose cap and it will go away after three driving trips. I went out and tightened the cap again. Three clicks. Now
- What is meant by three driving trips?
- Is there a way I can reset it ?
- Do I need to take it to the mechanic?
- Should I contact honda dealer or is it okay to show any mechanic?
I tried searching forum for some satisfactory answer, but haven't come across yet.
Thank you in advance for help.
Regards,
VJ
2) If the gas cap being loose was causing the Check engine light, it will go off on it's own, after a few times driving the car. If the cap was not loose, the light will continue to stay on, as long as the problem exists. If the light stays on after a few drives, the cap could be bad, or there could be air in the system (from running the tank low) or an air leak somewhere else. Hope everything works out.
Thanks for a quick reply.
I will check for the a rubber boot in the cap. What do you mean by bleeding the system? Since I purchased the car just over two weeks ago, I am not sure about the break oil change. But they seem to function well without pulling to one side. The duration of light seems to be connected with ambient temperature. On a cold day with light snow it takes 10 mins or so, while once on a warm day it went off in just 2 mins!! What do you suspect? Also what do you mean by bleeding the system?
2)I will check the cap and report again.
I really don't want to invest any money now. Hopefully things get solved by themselves.
Thanks
You're right! I haven't worked with cars so far. But I can always learn. Thinking of taking up volunteer work at Honda Dealership !!
I checked the cap of the brake fluid reservoir under the hood,
1)The cap was lose. So tightened it.
2) The fluid is not clear, it is kind of dark. So it seems to have absorbed moisture or it might be time to change the brake fluid.
3)For CEL, when I opened the cap yesterday, it kinda hissed as if pressurized vapor escaped the hole. I tightened it but CEL still glows. The CEL light has come on suddenly, when my tank was really low. So I like to think that it might be just trapped air.
http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/brakebleed.htm
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ee9949a?displayRecent
check post 1514.
My catalytic converter is going as well, I just purchased all of the parts from Majestic Honda, waiting delivery this week.
My honda is a 98 also.
Cheers.
I have an interesting update. This morning after a whole freezing night I started the car and brake light was as usual on. But I immediately turned the car off (in 30 sec), I opened the Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap to see the color of the fluid. It was of amber color and I could see the bottom of the reservoir (it was that clear). Also there was a cylindrical piece of white rubber (I think you called it rubber boot) attached to the cap of brake fluid reservoir. I moved it up all the way near the cap. Though it didnt stay put. I just locked the cap on and guess what? the brake light did not turn on at all. Generally, it will remain on for 10-12 mins when I start the car after keeping it over night.
What do you suggest? BTW thanks for the link. I am going to get the car checked and serviced as soon as I get the salary.
Thanks,
VJ
Thanks, Jim
The car was at the dealership for six days. They found the leak in the sunroof. They said the drain tube on the rear passenger side was not installed properly, and it was draining into the rear cabin. They found the trunk wet as well as underneath the rear seats.
All of this was fixed, covered under warranty. They said it was probably not installed properly from the beginning. I guess I never discovered this problem because the car was either covered or in the garage.
It seems that the sagging boot is the main problem. Everytime, I pull it up close to the cap, the break indicator gets turned off!
Plus guess what? My check engine light went off by itself. I did check if the lamp was working or not, by observing that the light glows when I start the car.
Low Fuel Indicator: I have never seen this indicator lighting even when car starts. What do you suspect? A burnt lamp?
Odometer light doesn't work either. I again suspect burnt lap.
Let me know your opinions!
Thanks,
VJ
This shouldn't illuminate, if I recall correctly. I'm positive my 1996 Accord doesn't illuminate the Low Fuel Light when cranking, and I'm also pretty positive my grandmother's 2002 Accord doesn't light up upon startup (I am who drives her car the most).
I suspect you just don't let your fuel get low enough to set it off, and that's definitely ok.
My guess is it was the gas cap causing the CEL. Glad it went out.
Low Fuel Indicator: I have never seen this indicator lighting even when car starts. What do you suspect? A burnt lamp?
I remember thinking my LFI was out on my 92 Accord, but finally one day I let the fuel get low enough, and sure enough it still worked. :surprise: I wouldn't run the car out of gas, trying to make the light come on.
Odometer light doesn't work either. I again suspect burnt lap.
If the numbers are still there, and the odometer is still working, I certainly wouldn't take the dash apart, just for that light.
Again, i changed the wheels to alloy and the tires to fat ones (225 R15) and every time i enter a bump, the left bac tire touches the underneath. Could this b the shocks or the springs... I would be glad if anyone hints me on the solution to these problems.
Obi3ice
As for the "sharp sound", that's just not definite enough a description to say anything about it.
Do you mean a chirping sound, like a bird? That could be a pilot bushing in the flywheel (where the transmission shaft plugs in). A good mechanic could identify a pilot bushing noise right away.
The 1998-2002 generation Accords had a well documented problem with the catalytic converters giving problems prematurely. I had to replace mine on my 1998 a couple of years ago. The vibration that you are experiencing isn't related to the catalytic converter. Traditionally, bad motor mounts are one of the few issues that Honda has had regular problems with across vehicle platforms. I've seen this with both Civics and Accords dating back to 1989 models. Fortunately for you it really isn't that big of a deal to have it replaced. I would have the bad motor mount replaced as soon as possible though--as a bad motor mount can cause unwanted additional stresses on other engine components due to the increased vibration that it introduces.
Sorry
Does anyone know how many miles I have left before I need to replace the front pads considering my driving is 90% highway? And do you recommend replacing them now?
Thanks in advance for your comments,
Oil is suddenly disappearing from this vehicle at a rate of approx. 3/4 liter per 1500kms. It has been inspected by a Honda dealer and there was no evidence of a leak under the vehicle. A strict oil consumption test was performed which yielded the figures above. A drive clean (emissions) test was performed showing zero hydrocarbons. Is it possible for the vehicle to burn this much oil and pass an emissions test with zero HC?