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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • zakimanzakiman Member Posts: 71
    Does pulling fuse#13 on the passenger side for 20 secs and then putting it back resets the 'Check engine light'? or do I have to reset it by disconnecting the battery cable.
    If this is not the gas cap causing the problem, is it worth investigating?

    Thanks for your time,
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I don't know which fuse would reset the CEL on your car. If the gas cap is not causing the CEL, the cause should be investigated. Did you check the cap, and did you find a problem with it?
  • zakimanzakiman Member Posts: 71
    Elroy, I replaced the gas cap a few days ago. This morning the CEL went off , I guess the computer did a check and the light reset itself. Looks like the gas cap was the culprit. Thanks for your help. I am glad I didn't go to the dealer and got charged an arm & a leg :D
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The gas cap CEL always takes a few days to go away. Glad you got it taken care of!! :)

    TheGrad
  • garygary Member Posts: 39
    I have a 1998 Accord EX-V6L. On the HVAC control display, there seems to be a rectangular gasket surrounding the display. Over time, this gasket has moved and the lower portion is now covering some of the graphics.

    Is there a way to easily re-position the gasket or does it need to be replaced? Any quick step-by-step instructions for removal of this display?

    Please advise.
    Thanks in advance!!
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    hi,
    The left turn signal on my 99 v6 accord started blinking rapidly. When th headlights are on, the blinking is no that rapid. Both the turn signal do come on, so the bulb is not out. Google search showed too many possibilities. Has someone experienced anything like this? Please let me know what do i need to check..
    Thanks in advance.....
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    The same thing was happening on my Mazda MPV, and it turned out that the turn signal lamp had two filaments, and one of them had burned out. So the turn signal was still operational, but at a reduced intensity.
  • pccocclpccoccl Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2000 Honda accord SE and it's about 80,000 miles on it. Usually, it can run about 400 miles per tank. But recently, it only can run about 250 miles per tank after a fuel injection cleaning service at Walmart.

    I have went back Walmart to ask but they told me the problem's not from their service.

    So did anybody have same problem before? or any suggestions? Gas price is so high. :(

    Thanks in advanced for your answer
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    What is your actual mileage? Divide gallons pumped by miles driven. (250 miles divided by the gallons you pump after those 250 miles). Example: 250/10gallons = 25mpg.
  • pccocclpccoccl Member Posts: 2
    I usually pump 14 gallons or more. So it should be around 18mpg and I run city and highway both. As I know, city/highway is 23/30.
  • trikev19trikev19 Member Posts: 18
    Owning a vehicle with 175K miles on it is going to cost money. Even an Accord that has always been maintained needs work. You may not have a monthly payment, but you'll have a payment. You won't know when or how much, but you'll have one. I own a 1994 Corolla with 177K miles. I paid $1,000 for it 2 years ago and it had 127K. I've replaced the radiator, major tune-up with timing belt, catalytic converter, tires, and most recently struts. These normal repairs have cost me thousands of dollars and I still have a 1994 Corolla worth about $1,000. I have no regrets and wouldn't consider selling my car. You must consider if it makes more sense to put $4,000 down on a new Accord and know what you have and what it will cost you every month or spend the $4,000 on the unknown.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    In the five years I've had my 1996 Accord (Since Aug 2002 when it had 125k miles), I've found an average of $300 a year does it for repairs.

    Brake Master Cylinder, Radiator, Front left driveaxle, were the big-bill items. I just put a timing belt, balance shaft belt, and water pump in it for $425 (the drive axle was $300, and a new exhaust valve gasket-cover was $35, no labor since the engine was already torn-down to do the belt, which fixed an oil leak- all this was done a week ago for $760 total).

    My car still tracks beautifully with no steering slack, and will do 100 MPH without protest (I had to go stormchasing the other night and had to get to the TV Station in a great big hurry! - traffic was light and my 180k mile Honda was ready!). I live in Alabama, and my mechanic told me "I'd drive it to California, today."

    I would too.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    I have a 99 Accord EX with 59k well maintained according to the Honda manual. I just came back from a 300 mile round trip to my parents and couldn't help notice while cruising at 70, no head winds, no incline my tachometer jumps from the normal 2500 rpms to about 2800 rpms sporadically and then resumes back to 2500 rpms. Is this normal? Elroy and others have given good advice for others with questions. Appreciate any input.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    That sounds like the torque converter locking and unlocking to me, based on the RPM speeds.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    Providing that it is what you say it may be, is this an easy fix and at what cost? I can live with it, just don't want to damage anything. When cruising 70 the tach reads at 2500 and remains there for the most part...occasionally it will exhibit the symptoms posted earlier. Thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I honestly don't really know. I'm wondering how truly "problematic" it is.

    I was hoping some of our "in-house" mechanics would chime-in soon. I'd stand-by and wait for them.

    The only thing I can really think of that would be causing you a problem is the increased fuel usage, and if it isn't doing it often, then I can't imagine it is too big of a deal, but I'm really NOT the expert here. I have a couple of Accords, but have never worked on them myself beyond replacing their air filters.

    I imagine some more knowledgeable people will be posting here soon. In the meantime, maybe try posting your question on "Edmunds Answers," one of the new features on the site.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I've heard of the tachometer surge problem before, but for the life of me I can't remember what the cause was. Maybe do an Internet search. Is the engine also increasing rpm, or just the tach needle jumping up, with no change in engine speed? If the engine speed increases, does the car speed up, or stay at the same speed. The answers to these questions could tell you if the transmission is slipping, or there is an electrical problem.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    The car maintains the same speed. Thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The car maintains the same speed. Thanks.

    So if the engine is turning higher rpm (is it?), the transmission is either slipping or downshifting.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    I didn't detect anything different or sounds in the way the car drove other than the observation of the tachometers surges. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    In a Camry, the torque converter lockup is like adding another gear, and is done for fuel efficiency. It's computer controlled.

    If in lockup, and the computer is sensing it is going to need to downshift to maintain speed, it will unlock the converter, and the rpm's raise by a couple hundred rpm's. A number of times that is all it takes to get mph back up, because if you look at an engines HP and Torque output curves, you'll see the higher the rpm the more HP and Torque the engine will put out.

    If the incline is too large and the mere torque converter unlocking doesn't maintain the speed, then it will downshift the gears. Older transmissions never even had transmission lockups, it was developed for FE, and removes 'slippage' from the converter.

    I don't know if a Honda is the same or not. However in a Camry, a torque converter unlock is a perfectly natural action.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Its the same, kiawah, in all generations of Accords since at least 1990, if not before, I believe.

    That's why I suggested this originally. It's not downshifting, because the RPMs at 70 would spike to over 3,500 RPM, probably closer to 4,500.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I think you may have something with the lockup kiawah. Here is a link that shows the lock-up solenoids, if you want to read up. It has more information on the shift control solenoids than the lock-up solenoids, but it can give you an idea what and where the part is. You'll have to scroll down the page a little. Good luck.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
  • ericckkericckk Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Honda Accord Coupe that is doing the exaxt same thing. For the last year the car has been shutting off while driving, I will wait 2 minutes and it will start back up and be just fine. It will not start right away, I have to wait and then it starts up like nothing ever happened. Sometimes it will do twice in one day or 2 days in a row and then go for about a month or two. Then the cycle repeats itself. I have had the car checked and checked with no help. It never shuts off while its at the shop. Please help if you have had this problem. I can't afford a new car.
  • nmwindaddictnmwindaddict Member Posts: 1
    Hola from NM -
    I have a 1999 Accord Lx sedan w/ a 2.3l vtec and I'm looking to do some bolt on mods. I am wondering how to find what engine tyoe I have (where do I look?). I have to replace the clutch any way so i am planning to have the ACT street heavy duty put in. What about the ACT XACT street lite fly wheel? (any good?). Then an exhaust kit (recommendations?).

    Lookin' for help.
  • lwinlwin Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 accord's alarm system is abnormally triggering anytime and want to deactivate it. Anybody who knows how to deactivate the alarm security system is appreciated.

    Lwin
  • obi3iceobi3ice Member Posts: 16
    Hi all. please i need advise and help on my honda accord 98. Its not idealing well. i took it to the mech and the nozzles were cleaned. Idealed well for like 2 days and after movin iy around it starts again with the check engine light blinking.
    The mech said it was a fuel system thing and i had my fuel pump cleaned. worked well alright but started again after driving it for two days.
    Please i want to know if nozzles have life span in honda accord cars and if it might be electrical problem because the plugs are firing well though i changed them to be sure it wasnt the plugs.
    Please heeeelllllllp.
  • snw1977snw1977 Member Posts: 11
    I have a black 1998 Accord Coupe and the body is in great condition other than this one spot. It's on the roof, near my sunroof. The clearcoat is coming off and the paint is too... It looks awful and when I had it priced at a body shop, they wanted to charge around 600-1000 dollars to fix it. I can't afford that at this time, so is there a cheap alternative that I could maybe do myself? Others don't notice it, but I see it everytime I look at the car. Would it be a huge mistake to just paint over the entire spot? Thanks!

    Shana
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    The Honda dealer has touch up paint that will match.
  • notthereyetnotthereyet Member Posts: 6
    Thank you user777 and mrbill1957 for your guidance [check message #1074]. Through much Trial and Error (more error than trial), discovered it was the cooling fan timer with an intermittent problem. took awhile to locate (and broke one or two tabs :cry: ) in the process. Same general location as info you forwarded, but well hidden in newer evolution model. knuckles scrapes common. Delay in response - that's for another forum. Thanks for your insight and guidance.
  • rthomaxrthomax Member Posts: 1
    My Honda is shutting off as others have reported and I've also taken it to the dealer only to be charged for a diagnosis that didn't find the problem. In summary the dealer could not replicate the problem and thus recommended new dist cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I replaced all these parts. Problem reoccurred. Car shuts down whether traveling at any speed and anywhere. After 4 or 5 turns of the ignition, it will run fine for miles. However, every day it shuts down at some time while I'm driving.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • dharg1970dharg1970 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my 99 Accord at 90,000+ miles and tried the dealer and an independent garage. The dealer situation was like yours except I wouldn't leave it. It didn't fail during a regular visit to the dealer and I didn't want to spend $90 for a diagnostic fee. I left the car with the independent garage for a week and it didn't replicate the problem for them. Another time this spring when it cut off about 13 - 15 times in 3 miles, I took it back to the independent garage and they got it to cut off and said it was the ignition switch, but said they didn't they couldn't replace it because the dealer had to reprogram something (the dealer didn't agree when I checked with them).

    I finally took it to an auto electric specialist that wasn't quite as close to me. I gave him all the history and symptoms. There was no indication from the engine except you'd get no acceleration when you stepped on the gas and the digital odometer would go blank.

    Although he couldn't get it to cut-off, he saw a problem with the electronic portion of the ignition switch and said it should be replaced no matter what. He was very good about asking questions and ruling out the other possibilities like the main relay and the components within the distributor assembly (coil, igniter, etc.). He replaced it and I've put about 800+ miles on it with no failures.

    A good auto electric specialist usually doesn't deal with anything but electrical problems and is a lot better that the general automotive facilities.
  • estyle77estyle77 Member Posts: 2
    Hi My accord 2000, 2.0i uses oil on long distances.No smoke from exhaust and no leak from below the engine.Fault light came on after i bought it as the oil was completely finished.Engine itself is smooth and no extra noises.It has done 84000 with full service history.One mechanic has said that it's normal for the car to use oil.It's using approx a gallon for 4000 miles.Recent service has not picked up any faults
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Just to make sure. Is the car using 4 quarts per 4000 or 1 quart per 4000?
  • estyle77estyle77 Member Posts: 2
    yup it needs approx 4 quart oil semisynthetic 10/40 in total for 4000 miles.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Lot of oil! Make sure you keep the oil topped up to the full mark on the stick and moniter the oil level frequently.
  • kym28kym28 Member Posts: 5
    I put gas in my 02 Accord and it will start but then the lights on the dash will come on then it cuts off and sometimes it shakes a little before cutting off. It only happens right after I put gas in what could be wrong?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    You could have an ignition switch going out on you (electrical part). There may have been a recall on it. Check it out.
  • kym28kym28 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks will check it out.
  • tbloomtbloom Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Accord that has the side curtain airbags. My SRS indicator light is staying on. I've checked the seat belts tensioners and they seem fine. Any ideas?
  • zbxzbx Member Posts: 30
    I have identical (intermittent) problem with my 2002 Accord. For a temporary fix (i.e. I don't know how to fix it either) I pull the door side of back of the passenger seat towards drivers seat.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Below is a link on how to reset the SRS light. Good luck
    http://www.ozaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Check with your Honda dealer. There may be a free fix for the srs light. Any light package in the seat will cause mine to come on.
  • carinflightcarinflight Member Posts: 3
    No, that's a great deal, I paid about $50 more for the same stuff to be done last year. I hit 150k so i did the seals too, but i did the seals for the FIRST time at 150k, but it might be more about age rather than mileage, not sure which. (mine is a 98) but, since it takes lots of work to acess the timming belt, and no extra parts to be removed to replace the seals, go ahead and get them done. The issue with the starting could be several things, and you should ask the mechanic who is replacing all the belts and seals, just ask and see if they will check for free. I had to replace a FOAM seal in the fuel recycling port thing (simply, it is a valve that resupplies the engine with unburned fuel to fully burn the fuel. this was stuck open for me, so no new fuel would be supplied to the engine and old fuel (which could not be supplied) was getting recirculated back in, causing sputtering. BUT , this was once it was running. Therefore, I would say it might be the solenoid in the starter. You can just replace that, but a whole starter is $79 at pep boys or autozone and gaurnteed for the life of the car under your ownership. the whole starter costs $47 more, but you get the 47 refunded when you give old part back. The starter is not just the problem, but giving you a heads up for when the starter starts to fail in the next few years. my guess, sparkplugs, or something with ignition (not starter). best of luck!
  • carinflightcarinflight Member Posts: 3
    catylatic converter, this is the reason for the light, almost all accords have a bat cat these days, the rattle in exhaust is a dead give away, pep boys or autozone is 179 ish for a exact oem replacement. try new spark plugs for the engine cut off, and there is a FOAM valve that can get stuck open, which supplys engine with unburned fuel. Thus, your running on vapors until new fuel slowly creeps past valve.
  • carinflightcarinflight Member Posts: 3
    I have a clicking prob now with 166k miles and its NOT the cv joints, I had the honda dealer check a week ago (actually they said the cv joints are in great shape for their age). I have a broken left front stabilizer link, which they recommended to replace both. $90 per part through dealer, but should cost MUCH less elsewhere. It clicks when turning under 45mph and accelerating from a stop nomatter what acceleration. I have drivin the car to a max several times in this condition, but I finally have enough money to replace, so its not vital, just important, and you should do it now if you have the money. labor and parts PER side is $119 at dealer, but should again be much less through anyone else, hope this solves it for you.
  • pablo9pablo9 Member Posts: 29
    THere IS a recall on the ignition switch for the 6th gens. It includes some civics, too. Call your dealer, provide your VIN, and they should be able to take care of it.
  • dharg1970dharg1970 Member Posts: 3
    In the case of my ignition switch, it had already been replaced under a previous recall for the ignition switch. The dealer said they would only replace it once.The symptoms started up sometime over 93K miles but wouldn't replicate for the dealer and most other shops. I had checked the Honda site and there weren't any recalls other than the one that had already replaced the ignition switch.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I was under the impression that recalls were forever. In other words, Honda would be responsible for fixing the issue, no matter how many times it happened.
  • 2hondaonr2hondaonr Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to eliminate cigarette smoke smell from A/C.

    Can anyome tell me where Air -intake for AC is located??

    Also Any Other ideas for eliminating odor
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