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Comments
If this is not the gas cap causing the problem, is it worth investigating?
Thanks for your time,
TheGrad
Is there a way to easily re-position the gasket or does it need to be replaced? Any quick step-by-step instructions for removal of this display?
Please advise.
Thanks in advance!!
The left turn signal on my 99 v6 accord started blinking rapidly. When th headlights are on, the blinking is no that rapid. Both the turn signal do come on, so the bulb is not out. Google search showed too many possibilities. Has someone experienced anything like this? Please let me know what do i need to check..
Thanks in advance.....
I have went back Walmart to ask but they told me the problem's not from their service.
So did anybody have same problem before? or any suggestions? Gas price is so high.
Thanks in advanced for your answer
Brake Master Cylinder, Radiator, Front left driveaxle, were the big-bill items. I just put a timing belt, balance shaft belt, and water pump in it for $425 (the drive axle was $300, and a new exhaust valve gasket-cover was $35, no labor since the engine was already torn-down to do the belt, which fixed an oil leak- all this was done a week ago for $760 total).
My car still tracks beautifully with no steering slack, and will do 100 MPH without protest (I had to go stormchasing the other night and had to get to the TV Station in a great big hurry! - traffic was light and my 180k mile Honda was ready!). I live in Alabama, and my mechanic told me "I'd drive it to California, today."
I would too.
I was hoping some of our "in-house" mechanics would chime-in soon. I'd stand-by and wait for them.
The only thing I can really think of that would be causing you a problem is the increased fuel usage, and if it isn't doing it often, then I can't imagine it is too big of a deal, but I'm really NOT the expert here. I have a couple of Accords, but have never worked on them myself beyond replacing their air filters.
I imagine some more knowledgeable people will be posting here soon. In the meantime, maybe try posting your question on "Edmunds Answers," one of the new features on the site.
So if the engine is turning higher rpm (is it?), the transmission is either slipping or downshifting.
If in lockup, and the computer is sensing it is going to need to downshift to maintain speed, it will unlock the converter, and the rpm's raise by a couple hundred rpm's. A number of times that is all it takes to get mph back up, because if you look at an engines HP and Torque output curves, you'll see the higher the rpm the more HP and Torque the engine will put out.
If the incline is too large and the mere torque converter unlocking doesn't maintain the speed, then it will downshift the gears. Older transmissions never even had transmission lockups, it was developed for FE, and removes 'slippage' from the converter.
I don't know if a Honda is the same or not. However in a Camry, a torque converter unlock is a perfectly natural action.
That's why I suggested this originally. It's not downshifting, because the RPMs at 70 would spike to over 3,500 RPM, probably closer to 4,500.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
I have a 1999 Accord Lx sedan w/ a 2.3l vtec and I'm looking to do some bolt on mods. I am wondering how to find what engine tyoe I have (where do I look?). I have to replace the clutch any way so i am planning to have the ACT street heavy duty put in. What about the ACT XACT street lite fly wheel? (any good?). Then an exhaust kit (recommendations?).
Lookin' for help.
Lwin
The mech said it was a fuel system thing and i had my fuel pump cleaned. worked well alright but started again after driving it for two days.
Please i want to know if nozzles have life span in honda accord cars and if it might be electrical problem because the plugs are firing well though i changed them to be sure it wasnt the plugs.
Please heeeelllllllp.
Shana
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I finally took it to an auto electric specialist that wasn't quite as close to me. I gave him all the history and symptoms. There was no indication from the engine except you'd get no acceleration when you stepped on the gas and the digital odometer would go blank.
Although he couldn't get it to cut-off, he saw a problem with the electronic portion of the ignition switch and said it should be replaced no matter what. He was very good about asking questions and ruling out the other possibilities like the main relay and the components within the distributor assembly (coil, igniter, etc.). He replaced it and I've put about 800+ miles on it with no failures.
A good auto electric specialist usually doesn't deal with anything but electrical problems and is a lot better that the general automotive facilities.
http://www.ozaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39
Can anyome tell me where Air -intake for AC is located??
Also Any Other ideas for eliminating odor