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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sl156sl156 Member Posts: 2
    My 99 accord had the ignition switch recalled and replaced by the dealership in 2002 and also had another the ignition key safety recall in 2005. I have put in over 200,000 and recently I have experience what you all have regarding frequent engine dies on the road but able to restart without problem. However I have to hold the key for a second or so while starting the car otherwise the engine would start and die immediately. I am not sure the dealer will replace the ignition switch free this time.
  • tiruvantiruvan Member Posts: 10
    Just noticed that our 2002 Accord has a bump that runs along the floor (foot area) on both the driver and the driver's rear seating area. Is that normal? We bought it new in 2002 and have never noticed such a thing.

    A couple months ago we got rear ended at 15 mph pushing our car into the front car. I suspect the collision center that ran the checks missed this bump. Please let me know if anyone else found the bump in their car.

    Thanks!
  • jakekocjakekoc Member Posts: 1
    Since 2-3 months ago, when I drive faster than 75 mph, I hear a very noticeable rattle noise from the front passenger side. I'm not sure where it exactly comes from, but it sounds like something is possibly loose and rattling around. Can only hear the sound above 75 mph, once I slow down, the noise is gone. Noise also fades in and out if I'm cruising at 80 mph, it is not a constant noise. I don't hear the noise during normal driving of 35-50 mph.

    I took it to the dealer and they replaced the heat shield which didn't fix the problem. They also replaced a tie rod and bushings which also hasn't fixed the problem. Anyone know what could cause this rattle at high speeds?
  • alangpalangp Member Posts: 13
    I guess that I had the same problem on my 02 LX 5speed as early as in 2003 (first manual car, living in Iowa, 12k mile / year). What I did in the middle of traffic was to shift it out 1st gear, release the clutch and try again. It usually would do the second time.
    Never mentioned the problem to dealer because I didn't think I can SHOW them what's wrong. I am still having the problem, but it happens once or twice a year. So I still keep the car.
    You definitly can talk to dealer.
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    This was written a while ago . . I don't know if it would apply to your situation.

    The dealer never could diagnose the problem properly. Why? Well, because I drove the car there and since it was on and not in a "stalled state" the proper code never appeared. A new battery, tune up and ignition switch only made the dealer more money.

    The problem was a bad FUEL RELAY SWITCH. Make sure that they check this component.

    Bad fuel relay switch caused my car to stall at high speeds, low speeds, and in all weather conditions.

    Good luck...I know how maddening the situation is.

    http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/a/honda_hot_start.htm
  • newb435newb435 Member Posts: 4
    my wife has a 2000 accord v6; she has a similar issue that only occurrs when its hot and after 2-3 re-starts. I'll have her try the fuel thing; do you recommend any certain fuel? I have replaced coil packs, plugs, mainrelay, ect value; none of these have helped. I'll try anything at this point. Its symptom is like a vapor lock.
  • jrsmoothjrsmooth Member Posts: 11
    Hi all experts: started a few days ago, when my Accord 2002 is in parking, I can't get it out of parking while I was breaking until I try a few times. What I am saying is, when the car is in parking, normally I will have to hit and hold the break while I attempt to pull the stick out of PARK into D4, but started a few days ago, it will take me a few tries in order to get the stick out of the PARK. I would hear a click normally, that's when I know I can depress the drive stick and pull it out of PARK, but again, it will take me a few tries in order to hear the "click".

    Help! Much appreciated!

    --JR
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a sticking Shift Interlock solenoid or a funky electrical connection to it from the brake pedal switch. Remember most cars do have a little slot next to the gear shift where you can insert a screwdriver to release the shifter, should you get "stuck" sometimes.
  • mrpenskemrpenske Member Posts: 2
    synai - my problem hasn't happened again since that time. i think it had something to do with the weather. it was raining alot when it happened. someone suggested that it could be moisture getting into the distributor.

    but i can't reproduce the problem (not that i want to)
  • hbund216hbund216 Member Posts: 162
    Thanks alangp. Checked around and it seems to be the 1st gear syncros. Basically it will require me to replace the transmission. What you explained works for me also. Another thing that works is to hold the shifter towards 1st (light push) and take up the clutch. The shifter moves into place smoothly. Have to say this is premature failure. I'll drive it until the wheels or transmission fall off and then get rid of it.
  • savannah1savannah1 Member Posts: 6
    i have replace the EGR valve, fuel injecter, got a tune up, replace spark plus, fuel cap, ignition switch, and catalytic convertor. After all that it has stopped dying when I drive. I would be on the interstate and it would just shut off! Sometimes i wouldnt even have to pull over, it would just come back on and keep going and sometimes i'd have to pull over and restart it. It is now giving me problems starting. I live in Louisiana and it has been a steady 90degrees-100 degrees. In the morning my car drives great on the way to work but, after its sat out in the sun all day and i try to leave it will noot start! I have to come back later at night when its cooled off to get it and it runs fine. People have mention the battery not having enough water or something to do with vapor?? has this happened to anyone and what to do to fix it? everytime i've taken it to a car place they seem confused
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I would try changing the fuel pump main relay next.
  • savannah1savannah1 Member Posts: 6
    thanks i'll ask about a new fuel pump
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Not the pump. The main relay. They are known to have problems in hot temperatures. The relays don't usually cause the car to die though, so I would check the engine computer too. Are you getting any blinking Check engine or D4 lights?
  • dmunshowerdmunshower Member Posts: 3
    Savannah1 I have a 98 Accord 6cyl and had all the same problems. The stalling while driving was getting worse it was happening every day, morning commute as well as evening commute. The interesting part was I had the turn off the car and let it sit for a least a minute or it would not restart. This always made me believe that the problem was electrical like a bad chip and not mechanical like fuel injectors. I also experience problems starting when sitting in the heat all day only to come back later when it cool down and it would start, again a chip that was to hot? This went on for two years, I took it to several mechanics and no one could figure it out. They recommended all the same fixes you have done only I did not do any of them. I have 200,000 miles on my car and recently my transmission had to be rebuilt. The shop plug in a device thru the electrical outlet by your shifter to check and see what computer codes were coming up. Well it turns out not all the code were coming up and one code they had never seen before. so they rebuilt the transmission and re booted the computer volia I have not had a stall in over a month. So my suggestion is maybe to have Honda clear your computer and see what happens, all this could be a code problem and is the cheapest and easiest thing to fix.
  • livetoride1livetoride1 Member Posts: 1
    My gas light turned on (about two years ago) and it wont turn off. (yes i have filled up my car many times). any idea to whats going on? I dont want to take it to a dealer and get charged up the wazoo if i dont have to
  • hokie28hokie28 Member Posts: 16
    Just wondering where I can find some good prices on OEM parts for my V6 2001 Accord. Any good trademotion websites?
  • alicebettyannaalicebettyanna Member Posts: 13
    My 2000 SE Accord has been great. It has close to 84,000 miles and since 2005, it get less than 5k a year on it. Usually just driven around town, occasionally short high way trips. Unfortunately, this weekend the transmission seems to be shot in the lower gears. It revs, but skips. Taking it in tomorrow. I am really bummed and wondering weather to fix it or buy another car. Other than crappy tran, it is in fantastic condition and very well maintained. I have records & may contact Honda. Do you think a transmission is worth fixing? :cry:
  • snukesnuke Member Posts: 81
    Anna...I have a 2000 V6 Accord with approximately 88,000 miles. My car also is in fantastic condition and has been very well maintained. Fortunately, I have not had transmission problems but if I would, I would get the transmission fixed. Because my car is in excellent condition, I feel that is reason enough to have the transmission repaired. If the car had other major problems, then my decision would probably be different. Let me know what you decide. If you decide to get it fixed, I would like to know the price you paid......this would give me an idea of what I might can expect in the future.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I tend to agree. In order to sell the car and get anything for it, you'll need the transmission repaired anyway. I'd try and find a decent price for repair, and consider my options (keep, sell, etc) once I've paid off the transmission fix.
  • pot2pot2 Member Posts: 1
    hii... I hv accord 2000 and the headlight covers are blurry. I tried some chemical on it, but still blurry. i dont its on the outside or inside. so I want to remove the whole headlight n try to clean the inside cover. is anybody know how to remove the whole headlight and the clear plastic cover?
    Thank you so much for the help.
    God Bless
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might try this method first:

    Cleaning Fogged Lens Covers
  • awt1awt1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Honda Accord with 66k miles and both the recall problem were fixed and now the symptoms have reappeared and Honda regional office said that car is not under the warranty and there are no recalls on the ignition switch even though the symptoms are exactly the same as before when they had to replace ignition switch in 2002-2005 period. Local Honda dealer wants $500 to replace the ignition switch and recode and swears that this not part of the previous recalls that had something to do with being able to pull the key out while the car was running and was not interested about the 2nd recall. I have already filed a complain with the Highway Safety and suggest everyone should do the same even if they have the problem fixed by paying from their own pocket.
  • alicebettyannaalicebettyanna Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for replying. Unfortunatley, it is the transmission, althought it drove perfectly today. The cost for used is $1,000 - $1,500, a new one is about a thousand more. I guess I am thinking it's about 5 new car payments. I am going to complain to Honda though. You never know, or wishful thinking.......

    The odd thing is it just happened, no warning at all. :(
  • greatlakesjrgreatlakesjr Member Posts: 109
    '98 Accord 4 cyl. I have had a Check Engine light on for awhile as well as some problems with stalling (not often). The acceleration has been shaky from a standstill as well, it hesitates. The diagnosis was that it needs a new PCM. Quote was $1,000 parts and labor. Reasonable? Thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    For the record, I don't intend this to sound like I'm patronizing you, because I'm not...

    At 84,000 miles, the transmission should have been serviced at least once, preferably twice. If you have had this done, take those records (if you have them, if not, ask for them to look up when it was serviced) with you when asking for repair. Make sure everyone in that dealership knows you did have the car serviced, you'll have a better chance at getting some "help" towards the cost of your transmission if you can prove you were proactive at maintaining it.

    Keep us posted, I'm eager to know how it turns out! :)

    TheGrad
  • alicebettyannaalicebettyanna Member Posts: 13
    I'll let you know. I called Honda and opened a case. Our reliable mechanic for 20 years quoted $1,790. for a used transmission, double if it's rebuilt - no warranty. :( Wednesday, I take it to the dealer where I bought it to verify it's trashed to Honda and wait and see if they offer any goodwill. I have faithfully followed all maintence, including transmission. I had the car serviced at the dealership where I bought it for 8 out of 9 years, and still go there for anything I'm really concerned about (replaced starter in Jan 09).
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Well, at very least they can't hold it against you that you didn't maintain the car properly. Maybe they can help you out. We'll keep our fingers crossed! :shades:
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Have you had the transmission fluid drained and refilled? If so,did you use Honda brand transmission fluid?
  • 330blast330blast Member Posts: 49
    Hi there,

    I have a 1999 Accord, LX, 4 cyl. The odometer reads 132,xxx miles now. At 120,000, I took the car to Precision Tune for a major service, during which they changed the transmission fluid and break fluid.

    I happened to read the manual yesterday and notice that it says always use genuie honda fluids for both. "You may temporarily put in alternatives like Dexron III ATF, and Dot 3 break fluids, but should bring the car to the dealer and changed to OEM fluid as soon as you can".

    Given the fact that my car has been running normal for the last 12K miles, I am wondering whether this is just to release honda from liability. Basically, should I go to the dealer and have both changed to Honda fluids now, or I can wait until 150,000 miles service.

    Thanks in advance for your input.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    As far as the transmission fluid is concerned, I've read MANY posts from troubled Honda owners who were upset that the transmission died after using other transmission fluids. I'd go ASAP simply based on the number of posts about the issue in the maintenance boards.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    There are people who say they've had success using other brands of fluids in their Hondas. I don't doubt most of them do. I have always used Honda fluids, and maintenance items. The only thing that goes in or on my Accord that does not have a Honda part # is oil, (but then Honda branded oil isn't made by Honda either, it's Mobil). The few times I tried aftermarket parts on a Honda, the results were not good. The dealership's regular prices are high, but there are ways around that. ;)
  • odysseyfan1odysseyfan1 Member Posts: 33
    I had somwhat similar problem where the climate control went dead one day, no button will lit, neither will the AC work.

    Since in your case sometime it works, it might be a bad fuse. Check the driver side fuse box, and see if the fuse for the panel is ok. try replacing it the same power from some other slots to see whether it fixes the panel. If you can't find another fuse of the same power from the driver side, try getting the passenger side fuse box, and get similar fuse.

    Other option would be bad climate control (my case), read on the net that the climate control panel is gone, went to the local junkyard, bought the 99 climate control panel, and installed it myself. everything on the climate control started to work.
  • odysseyfan1odysseyfan1 Member Posts: 33
    This issue started when I had my climate control went burst, after I replaced the climate control panel from the local junkyard, things started to work on the climate control (button lights, AC etc), but heating works sometime eventhough I moved the know all the way to the hot side (this started back in winter 08).

    Now I am seeing that even the contol knob is on fresh air position, I am getting warm air, so it seems that whatever controling the fresh/hot air flow, is messed up.

    If I press AC, then I start getting cold air, but with AC off, I get fresh air sometime.

    I am getting the Air blows fine on all speeds eventhough I noticed the air pressure is little off.

    Thanks.
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    For automatic transmission and power steering, I would use Honda OEM fluids.

    For manual transmission, brake fluid, and coolant I would use non Honda name brands.
  • snukesnuke Member Posts: 81
    WOW.....I had no idea a transmission could be so expensive, especially a used one. I now understand your dilemma. That would be a difficult one for me because I love the shape of the new Accords. The interior of my 9-year old Accord looks so ancient compared to the newer Accords. But, I love not having a car note especially since I am retired and living on a fixed income.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Transmissions are now electronically controlled and pretty complicated. They are starting to rival engines themselves in terms of replacement cost.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    The reason I asked re the Transmission fluid, is that sometimes a drain and refill with Honda ATF will stop any slipping that is experienced.
  • alicebettyannaalicebettyanna Member Posts: 13
    Strange turn of events: Got a quote on a used, no warranty trans, and one from Honda, rebuilt, 3 year warranty. Honda offered a good will of 25% of the bill, we would cough up $2,500. However, for whatever reason, the car seems to have fixed itself and the trans is fine! A mechanic (who quoted us the used) AND the Honda dealer (who replace w/the rebuilt) can no longer find any fault. I'm not complaining, but I am puzzled. We had the transmission changed, they said it was dark, but not overly so.
    Hmm, is this a warning? Anyway, for now we continue to drive.

    We looked at new Honda CRV, Honda, and Nissan Altima just in case,

    So, if your trans goes, don't hesitate to contact Honda and ask for good will :)
  • abqjfcabqjfc Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Honda Accord EX has taken to dying driving down the road and/or not starting until after a few tries.

    When starting the car, the engine turns over but immediately dies. The car "sees" the key and the indicator goes off, but, no dice.

    Turning off the ignition and starting the process again seems to get the car started.

    Not sure if it is related to steering wheel position.

    More often when it's warm or hot, but still random.

    Any thoughts?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I'm guessing it's the electrical part of the ignition switch. If you start the car, but don't let the key go all the way back to II position will it keep running? That points to the ignition switch. There may have been a recall on the switch for your car. I would check that out first. You may get it fixed free of charge, if there was a recall.
  • mldd2003mldd2003 Member Posts: 5
    What happened to your car?

    I have a 1999 Accord, was told and shown that the upper control arms/ball joints
    are loosen, I saw it was not more than 1/2 (up and down). hope to learn from your experience. Thanks!
  • mldd2003mldd2003 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1999 Accord, was told and shown that the upper control arms/ball joints
    are loosen, I saw it was not more than 1/2 (up and down). hope to learn from your experience. Thanks!
  • aztrazaztraz Member Posts: 3
    For the past 2 months I've been having a problem with oil in the radiator. It all started when I got small punctures in two radiator hoses and the car ran hot really badly. I've replaced all the hoses, even the top and bottom ones. Now it's just a matter of replacing the head and/or gasket I suppose.

    My main question is this: What are the odds replacing the head and gasket will do the job? How likely is it I have a cracked block instead? I've seen other forums where other people have had the same problem, and 9 times out of 10 it's a bad head and gasket, but it's that 1 scenario where it's a cracked block that worries me. Is it worth it try to replace the head and gasket and hope for the best, or am I taking to big of a risk on the off chance my engine's block is damaged?

    Specs: 99 Accord LX, 4 cyl, 2.3L, ULEV V-TECH, auto trans.

    Thank you in advance for any advice.
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    What are the costs involved?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's an interesting video that might help you:

    VIDEO ON CRACKED BLOCKS/HEADS
  • aztrazaztraz Member Posts: 3
    Anyone know the timing sequence or have the diagram for a 99 Honda Accord LX 4 cyl 2.3 L ULEV VTECH? I'm getting those repairs I mentioned earlier done and that's the only missing piece to the puzzle.

    Can't find the Honda repair manual or the Chilton/Haynes books in stock anywhere except online and I need the info a lot sooner than when they can be shipped.
  • aztrazaztraz Member Posts: 3
    I found a new head for less than 350, I got the head gasket set for 100, and my labor guy is willing to do the job off the clock for 400 bucks. Total with oil, new filter and coolant, about 875.

    I might not even need the head, so if I have to return it that'll save me about 275 (350 minus 75 dollar restock fee to send it back)
  • thepupthepup Member Posts: 1
    When I start up either cold or hot engine the transmission has difficulty changing into 2nd gear and also 3rd. The jerk is strong and at times. Any ideas other than a new transmission I could look at....
  • lucas123lucas123 Member Posts: 7
    I own a '98 honda accord and the ride has been getting a little rougher with more rattling over bumps recently. I replaced the front with stock shocks from a friend's accord (who totaled the car) about 4 years ago. The back were replaced about 3.5 years ago with monroe sensatrac. I live in Los angeles and frequently drive on the winding sunset blvd. Would replacing my shocks/struts with monroe vs. KyB Gr-2 make much difference? Or do I need to get better struts? Tokico? (I know those can be pricer) Also, agility handling is not as crisp as before (it is 10 years old). What about sway bars? Or changing the sway bar bushing kit? My tires are not too bad right now (yokoh....brands), so I'm not worried about that. I'm trying to keep my car for another 1-2 years, but was wondering what the best thing would be to do to keep good agility and suspension. I don't mind if it's a little stiff like my friend's Acura Tsx....that handles really well...thanks.
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