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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    What brand of ATF are you using and when was it last drained and Filled?
  • smaduressmadures Member Posts: 1
    So it seems that I was trying to lower the rear window with the driverside window control and my son was trying to raise the window with the controll on the backseat door at the same time. The window slipped most of the way in the window slot. I can hear the motor trying to go up or down when I push the power window button but the window doesn't move. Does anyone know what might be the problem and how to fix it?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Sounds like your regulator cable broke. Bad thing is, I don't think you can buy just the part that's broken. They sell the regulator as a whole, if not the motor too, which means big bucks. Pushing both switches at the same time, should have just canceled the switches out electrically. It should not have forced the window in both directions. Maybe the cable was about to go anyway.
  • artnjartnj Member Posts: 4
    Repair shop said they would charge $400 but I could probably get it way cheaper and they would put it in. Where to buy that is reputable that would have it?

    This is for a 2000 Accord SE 4 cyclinder
  • bman12bman12 Member Posts: 1
    Probably going to need a new regulator for the window, usually around 125.00 with a new motor. Pretty simple swap, about an hour.
  • roblester09roblester09 Member Posts: 1
    I just recently installed a new after market cd player into my 2002 Honda Accord lx and i got the cd player working great but there is this red wire and it controlles my dash lights and now they dont work. I have no idea where to put this red wire what do I do? Can someone help me please?
  • azcardsfanazcardsfan Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 accord and recently the factory installed alarm goes off whenever. The battery in the remote went dead so was using the key to unlock. I have also checked to make sure the wire to the security system in the door was connected. It is. I have taken out the horn relay for now, but would like to know if the security system can be disconnected and if so, can I do it or does it have to been done at a dealership? Thanks for any help you can give.
  • don_ncdon_nc Member Posts: 9
    I have a 99 ex v6 with 117k miles and had a rebuilt tran installed about 5 yr and 60k mi ago. It has started shifting similiar to yours (feels like it goes into nuetral between 1st and 2nd shifts for about 2 to 3 seconds and then shifting hard), but only in the morning and for the first couple miles. I'm thinking about having it looked at and at least getting the tran fluid flushed. Keep us posted on what you find
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    You would have to give some more information on when the car alarm goes off, what are the circumstances. It keeps going on and off for no reason? It could be haunted . .
    :)
  • azcardsfanazcardsfan Member Posts: 2
    It goes off for no reason, in the middle of the day, in the middle of the night. I have also unhooked the battery and hooked it back up.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Don't flush it. Just have the dealer drain and refill with only Honda ATF.
  • don_ncdon_nc Member Posts: 9
    I checked my records and the tran fluid was changed about 20k miles ago when the 100k service was done. The dealership called this morning and said a new trans was needed (again). Ugghhh!!

    Has anyone else had to replace the transmission twice and if so, how much did Honda cover ? Original price is $2900 and the dealer offered to reduce it to $2200.

    Thanks
  • marvin6marvin6 Member Posts: 72
    I have a 2000 accord lx 4 cyl auto that I bought new. I have maintained it very well and have had no problems other than one motor mount and some serious transmission issues. There was a class action suit against honda for transmissions that I fell under and I have had three rebuilt transmissions put into my car - all done under warranty by honda . Each rebuilt transmission has clunked when shifting - to include the current transmission. I have simply learned to live with that. My concern is the loss of power. I live in northern alabama and with the original transmission my car almost never downshifted. Since the original transmission, each rebuilt transmission in my car has been the same - my car shifts at every little hill. On the interstate I cannot use cruise control as I will be going 4400 rpm at 70 mph on any hill. I prevent that by anticipating hills and running to about 80 before the hill. With the original transmission, my car ran about 2800 rpm at 70 mph. With each replacement transmission it runs about 2500 rpm at 70 mph and thus it shifts all the time. With the lower rpm I would expect better gas mileage, but I have lost about 4 mpg with the rebuilt transmissions. I have done all the maintenance and put new plugs in at 50k and 100k and they did not alter the mileage. Any suggestions?
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Sorry,Don. There were transmissions that were replaced free by Honda in the 98-2002 model years. Honda has a list of the serial numbers that were deemed defective and replaceable free of charge. Was your first transmission replaced by Honda for free?
  • don_ncdon_nc Member Posts: 9
    Hi,

    Yes, it was replaced free about 4 to 5 years ago. I guess I should have sold the car earlier so I wouldn't have to deal with transmission problems again.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I'd be tempted to try a drain and refill of the ATF. Otherwise, you could take it to another dealer and shop price on a replacement trans. Maybe then go back to your current dealer to see if they would better the price. Note that an above poster got 3 free transmissions. So negotiation will save you some money.
  • marvin6marvin6 Member Posts: 72
    I now have 113k on my car and my transmission is still under warranty. Each rebuilt transmission comes with a 3/36 warranty. The only problem is - in my opinion - is that they are inferior to the original transmissions. In fact, the dealership actually put a rebuilt honda transmission in my car and the it was worse than the one that was being removed so I had to wait a couple more days for another transmission to come in from Honda. In retrospect, I should have gotten rid of the car when the transmission was first replaced, but we live and learn.
  • gkepler1gkepler1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 Accord, with the 4 cyl. engine, appox. 120,000. Engine was rebuilt around 98K, with timing belt, fluids, belts, water pump. It has been oil changed since new with regular oil. I wanted to know what the advantages are to switch to synthetic oil, and if there's a particular way to switch, i.e engine flush, etc. Thanks!
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    If synthetic oil is not recommended for your engine ( and I know it is NOT for this engine), switching to synthetic oil just increases your oil change expense and makes you feel better.

    Regular oil is just fine for your car. Just stick to 3K mile oil change interval. I have heard that switching to synthetic oil in an older engine could actually cause oil leak/seepage around seals/gaskets/piston rings and increase your oil consumption. That is due to superior flow characterisitic of synthetic oil.

    Joe
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    My last Accord (92) had to have the oil pan removed, and the oil pick-up screen for the oil pump cleaned out, even though I changed the oil every 3,000 miles. This was just after 100k miles, using Castrol GTX 5w-20 oil. I have switched to Mobil 1 on my 03 Accord thinking it will prevent sludge build up in the engine. The car started out on conventional oil, then switched to Syntec, then to Mobil 1. The car now has 67k miles, and no oil leaks, or consumption issues.
  • gkepler1gkepler1 Member Posts: 4
    thanks much, that is something to think about.
  • gkepler1gkepler1 Member Posts: 4
    did you do anything to clean out all the regular oil when switching to synthetic?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    did you do anything to clean out all the regular oil when switching to synthetic?
    No.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    I would run a more dense 5-20 synthetic than M1. I would prefer Pennzoil Platinum 5-20. $20 in a 5 quart jug at WM.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    The primary reason to switch from regular to Synthetic oil is the ability to safely go more miles between oil changes. Synthetic oil will not degrade as fast as regular oil under normal use. I started with regular 5w-30 and switched after the first 50,000 miles. I didn't do anything different when I changed to Synthetic except leaving it drain overnite to remove as much as possible.
    I noticed No difference in oil consumption.
    The Amzoil Oil Co. advertises 25,000 miles or 1 year between changes. I only drive aprox 10,000 miles a year now so I change my oil once a year. They sell an oil testing service which I used after my first year/10K use and the Co. that analyzises the sample reported No degradation and very little contaminants. It was their opinion that under the same useage/conditions it could have lasted at least twice as long. Tht made me a believer!
    ON a side note I am retired Airline employee and wanted to try it because all Airlines use Synthetic oil in the engines.
    :shades:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The Accord owner's manual states (and I agree) that you can use Synthetic oil, but NOT to extend the maintenance intervals. Wether it is dino or synthetic, it still gets the same amount of contamination. Why wouldn't it? Every time you start a cold engine, condensation gets into the oil, and blow-by still happens. I use Mobil 1, but I still change it between 3k and 4k miles. How does using sythetic oil reduce contaminants? Answer, it doesn't. If you are switching to synthetic, to extend the change intervals, just stick to dino, IMO. I switched to synthetic to reduce sludge build up, that's it. I have doubts about how reliable these oil analysis companies are.
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Where I live, oil changes cost only about $20, so what is the big deal about changing oil once every six months? I have never heard Honda recommend synthetic oil, so I wouldn't change after all these years of using regular oil. Also, the quality of "regular" oil has greatly improved over the last several years.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I didn't say Honda recommended synthetic oil. What I said was, Honda says it's OK to use sythetic oil, so I do. I also don't have a problem with changing oil every six months, as long as it's not over 4k miles (for my car). The op said his engine was rebuilt at around 98k miles, so that's only about 20k miles ago. I am hoping using synthetic oil will prevent sludge build up. An oil change with Mobil 1, and a Honda filter costs me less than $30, (and I know some rookie at Jiffy Lube or WalMart didn't screw it up). I can handle that.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    One of the claims of synthetic oil is better gas mileage. I use synthetic oil in my 04 Accord, but don't have proof if it helps with mileage or not. If it does, lets say by +2mpg, I change oil at 5000 miles, with gas at approx. $2.50/gal, thats a savings of $25, which just about pays for the oil and filter that I change myself.

    Mrbill
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    If using synthetic oil would really give the Accord 2 more miles per gallon, why wouldn't the Honda engineers recommend it? Maybe they are stupid?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I guess they are!!!

    LOL

    Mrbill
  • jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    I am surprized as this. All I can think of is that you do a lot of short stops may be in cold weather. One thing all can do if we do have a lot of stop and go driving, is that once a month, get the car on the highway, and go somewhere for an hour to allow the engine and the oil to warm up to its real operating temp. This allows the oil to fully flow through the engine and also allows the engine and exhust to get rid of moisture.

    My 93 Ford Ranger with 4.0L V-6 engine and 145K miles is lightly used, but once a month I take it to my 70 mile work commute. It still has the original muffler, and I change the oil once a year using regular oil.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I am surprized as this. All I can think of is that you do a lot of short stops may be in cold weather.

    Not in cold weather. Here in South Louisiana the temperature has been between 95-100 degrees with very high humidity. During the week, my car gets mostly short trips (less than 4 miles). I think any oil my engine consumes, is easily replaced by condensation. The Accord owner's manual interval for "severe conditions" is 3,750 mile oil changes. I will go with that, even using synthetic. Some engines are probably more prone to cause sludge than others, but by the time you find out your engine does, it's too late.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    There are many individual strong proponets of oil change intervals and type of oils.
    (Regular vs Synthetic)
    The bottom line is that each of us will do what we consider in the best interest of our vehicles.
    I am sure no one wants to ruin their engine and with some length of experience we determine what works best for our vehicle, engine, and type of miles driven.

    There is no one answer that satisfies us all.

    And if we find that something is not working correctly we change.

    Usually with experience and age comes something we find that works and which we like.
    :shades:
  • cgphil1cgphil1 Member Posts: 29
    I know that this has been discussed here before but I wanted to know if anyone has bought an evap canister & shut off valve for their Accord at any discount parts store and if so where. local shop replaced the evap bypass solenoid and 2 way valve to fix P1457 code for $370.00 including diag fee. CEL is still on and they want to install the new part for $283.00. I can install part myself just needs to know best Honda parts online store to order from.
    Thanks
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    I am sure synthetic oil is fine, but to me it isn't worth the extra expense. I know some cars like Mercedes require synthetic oil, in which case you should keep up with that. Consumer Reports said they could find no obvious difference in either oils, perhaps if you drive very hard miles, it would be worth it.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    If any posters on the Forum are interested in having their oil evaluated the link is:
    www.oaitesting.com Phone# 877-458-3315 Oil Analyzers Inc.

    A sample kit for testing and 2 way UPS shippimg cost $27.85 when I last used it.
    It involves taking a midstream sample when you change oil.

    You will recieve a detailed analyisis of your oil and a phone number to talk to a representative if you want a more detailed explanation regarding what the evaluation means.

    They test Oil, Fuel, and Coolants.

    :shades:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Can these people who analyze oil tell you that sludge is building up in your engine or not? I doubt it, since every engine is different. The oil from two different engines could look the same, but not protect the same, in those different engines. I'm not convinced these companies can see inside my engine, by looking at my oil.
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Member Posts: 420
    Oil sludge appears mainly in certain engines that have not been well-designed. Toyota comes to mind in that regard, not Honda. Honda apparently has had trouble with some of its transmissions but not oil sludge, not that I have heard of. Of course if an owner never changes the oil that will damage any engine.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    What kind of vehicle and engine did you expierence a sludge build up in?

    :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    When my 92 Accord (stock F22 engine) had just over 100k miles on it, the pickup screen on the oil pump got clogged up enough that the oil light would come on at low rpm (idle). This was despite 3,000 mile oil changes (religiously). Apparently, it doesn't take much to clog up these screens, because there have been other Accords with the same problem. This engine (03 V6) may not have the same type of screen, but I'm going to try synthetic, and see how many miles I can get that way. I plan to have this car for a long time.
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    Re:'92 Accord
    Did you get it New or Used? (miles if used)

    I read that you are in Louisana so I was wondering if driving conditions were
    rural, pavement or some combination of both?

    When I was on the farm in Ks. conditions were frequently dusty with gravel roads
    which necessitated more frequent everything.

    The only way I know of checking on Sludge Buildup is dropping the oil pan or taking off a valve cover.

    Oil analyisis only tells oil condition.

    :)
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    I was checking '92 Honda Accords on Edmunds Review of them and according to
    them '91,'92, and '93 Accords had "significant" engine problems but I didn't run across sludge buildup as an issue.
    You may want to pull it up and see if their listed Reliability reports mesh with your experiences.
    There was some interesting reading and responses by consumers,
    almost all of which were very favorable.

    :)
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    I ran across a message on the Forum:
    Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair
    On Page# 1 and Msg# 7 the writer states that oil prior to 1999 was not as effective
    as current oils in regards to sludge buildup.
    Can anyone expand on this and explain why?

    :surprise:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Re:'92 Accord
    Did you get it New or Used? (miles if used)

    I bought the car new, in 91, and kept it until 03, after I bought the new Accord. I had very few problems with it, but most of them are common for that model. I spend a lot of time on other Accord forums, and many owners still report the same issues I had. Oil leaking into the spark plug holes was a big one. The radiators were prone to crack at the top of the plastic tank, and there were plenty of frantic posts about "my oil light comes on at idle". I was always able to fix the problems myself, so the car was very cheap to own. I don't think I want to pull the oil pan, just to check for sludge, at least not at this point (67k miles), but I will remove the valve covers when I do the timing belt (at 105k).
  • bajajoesbajajoes Member Posts: 48
    Can you share any thoughts on your experiences with your 2003 Accord V6?

    I would have loved one in my '01 but it wasn't offered with the manual trans and

    I have always enjoyed a stick.

    The extra power of a V6 would have been fun and I doubt the difference in mileage is

    an issue.

    :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    I love the V6 engine. It moves the car effortlessly and silently around town. If an Accord takes off from a stoplight, and you can't hear the engine, it's probably a V6. ;) I get 23mpg around town, so I don't think that's bad at all. Where the V6 really pays off is out on the highway. I'm not one to ride in the slow lane, so it's nice to have that passing power. You don't have to sit behind slower traffic, waiting for a large opening to pass. The car has been at least as reliable as the 92 was to this point. I am well satisfied. The V6 engine has spoiled me, and I don't think I would go back to 4 cylinder power now, without a fight.
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    Ditto,Elroy. The V6 Accord feels like a completely different,upscale car,vs. the I4. Was the #14 car smooth or what?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    It's all relative. When I made the move from my 130hp '96 LX to my '06 model with 40 more horses and a lot more sound-deadening material, I felt like I'd moved into a road-rocket. My best friend just got an 05 V6 that I've driven; it is a real hot-rod, but I don't mind wringing power out of my 2.4L once in awhile when I need to; it sounds great at 6000 RPM, and gets upper 30s on trip mileage at 75-80 MPH. That balance works for me. :)
  • gkepler1gkepler1 Member Posts: 4
    I guess I'm still on the fence whether to switch or not, but thank you very much to all of you who replied!
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