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Comments
I notice that randomly and infrequently when the car is paused at a stop light/sign when I begin to press on the gas pedal the car will will make a small but subtle jerking motion then everything is fine. It is very difficult to reproduce this problem. Would a valve adjustment fix this or does it sound more like transmission problem?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Jack
You can get a full maintenance schedule for your Accord here at Edmunds.
Here's the link:
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/select.html
This particular serviice is expensive and extensive and if the person was getting ready to sell the car it may have been neglected.
:confuse:
If you are handy you can do all of these except transmission service.
EDR(engine data recorder)? I have heard that some cars have these units
which record various parameters of the car such as speed, brake use,seatbelt use,
air bag deployment and are subject to supoena in case of an accident.
Anyone have info about this?
:confuse:
My son drives this car and I noticed the light being on. The car has 128K miles. I have done all the maintenance on the car and it does not need to go to the dealer for any service so far.
Thanks,
Joe
1. TURN OFF THE ENGINE
2. PRESS AND HOLD THE SELECT/RESET BUTTON ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, THEN TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH ON
3. HOLD THE BUTTONS FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS, UNTIL THE INDICATOR RESETS.
I hope this helps.
I am curious about a number of repair items suggested by my mechanic.
The car runs ok, with the ride being a tad stiff. And, I think that the engine could be a little more efficient.
I sometimes hear a loud screech when turning the car tightly at low speeds. Based on a friend's suggestion I thought that the CV boots needed replacement. After looking at the car the mechanic recommended the following repairs:
Replace both axles: $350+
Replace both front struts: $450
Replace sway bar links: $150
Additionally, replace distributor housing: $330+
Total around $1500 with some other small items.
Questions:
Are these replacements expected for a car like mine?
Are these quoted prices reasonable?
Which one of these repairs can I live without for now?
Should I plan for another automobile?
Also, I want to get the engine efficiency issue looked at, but I am scared that will also be a large bill and I might be tempted to go for it.
You will find it much easier if you have the replacement blub/socket. You do not take any of the housing off.
Joe
Seems like it should be the reverse.
Any comment on how to switch this to be brighter at nite?
:confuse:
Sounds like it's working fine to me. They dim the clock assuming it's getting darker inside the car (as well as outside) and you don't want as bright a display as you would when it's daytime.
Mrbill
If there is a way to stop it from being dimmed when going to night mode that would correct the difficulty I am having reading it.
Their price was like $2.30. If you are getting several items like wheel covers, bolts, belts, hoses, or filters, it makes sense to go online. If you just need this bulb, go to your local dealer and pay the extra $ to get it.
Joe
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/
Joe
Few questions regarding my 2002 Accord/Vtec-4ccyl with 135,000 kms.
1) The fuel economy has gotten very bad. I've had the following serviced in the past 18 months: Plugs, Fluids(All), new Tires, battery.
Any thing else I should consider?
2) The Green Backlight on the Odometer reading LCD died. Is this repairable?
3) Yes the Tranny is a bit rough. SIGH. Slips once ina while or is just super slow.
Spaman made an entry (#10930) in June of 2005 that suggests his wife had a similar problem and "We finally changed the electronic board that controls the spark plug firing ($200) and it solved the problem." That makes me hopeful but I want to make sure this indeed is a correct solution.
I'm new to the forum and don't yet know how to contact a member and so hopefully this will get the word out. Anyone had this as a solution?
My mechanic tells me that transmission fluid is leaking from my car and that there is a crack in the case. The transmission will have to be replaced and it will cost $1700. I have a few questions:
1. Since I already have 126K miles on the car. Is it even worth to spend that much money on transmission replacement. Cant I just keep refilling the fluid as it gets low?
2. If I do get it replaced. Is $1700 a reasonable price? What warranty I should get along woth that?
3. What price I might get if I trade in my vehicle as is? (I spent $1650 on the car last year for the 105K miles sevice)
Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
After looking under the car and finding nothing, I thought about the brakes at first, but it occurs while cruising as well. Speed is not a factor and we actually hear it better moving slowly through residential areas.
Sure would appreciate some input on this.
Thanks,
bassmark2000@yahoo.com
It's common when removing a tire to lower it before it fully clears the thin metal shield behind the rotor. They can be easily bent and will rub the rotor. When you make your right turn, the rotor tilts ever so slightly and makes contact to shield.
Mrbill
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/odometer-lights-327164/
Obi
Someone needs to read the trouble codes first off, then do the basics of cleaning the MAF sensor, throttle body, checking the EGR, checking for vacuum leaks, and of course the obligatory tune up. Also switching gasoline and using some fuel injector cleaner is not a bad idea.
Without the proper methodical diagnosis, it's hard to say if it's worth it or not. Doesn't sound like a huge problem on the face of it.
we tested against a good running honda and new out of box coil. seem to be in range.
Any Ideas or sugestions?
Thanks, Kurt
e-mail kkaufman001@roadrunner.com if you need to send photo.
Error codes: P0301,0303,0305,0306,1399
Please advise
one or more B.O. Coils could cause the error codes I am getting.
Best Place to get OEM honda parts at best prices?
Thanks, Kurt
The Fix, One (1) Bad Coil.
Had to run them in a known good working honda, One at a time to locate the bad one.
Yes it was the last one tested. I know, Bummer. !!!!
I have a 50K spray insolation I want to test on the old one just for the hell of it.
I did replace with a new part and runs great.
Well, Thanks for the support ~
Kurt