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My brother has gone to the junk yard to look for another center console, but all are sticky!
i have a 2000 Honda Accord EX and i have a problem with the car...Since last year when the car run hot and i try to start it,it wouldn't start but when the car cools down it would start...So replaced the EGR valve and sprayed it with fuel injector cleaner and that seem to work...but this year i got the same problem and i sprayed some fuel injector cleaner but this time it doesn't seem to be working. What do you think i should do?
1) P1167-Manufacturer Control Fuel air metering
2) P0700-Transmission control system malfunction
3) P1739-Manufacturer control transmission
Does anyone have any comments on whether ...
1) these codes necessitate a trip to the dealer for specific Honda repair/parts?
2) any idea as to estimate on repair cost.
[note: I usually add Red Line fuel injector to the gas each tank but ran out the past two fill-ups]
Any help is appreciated. Thanks to All.
Why?
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I replaced the bulbs with HID KIT and i just need to adjust the left light just a touch.
I read on here that tranny is an issue. Yes some had problems and it were the ones made in japan. The ones made in the states are great. Mine was made in the states and i have no issue. Do a drain and fill with HOnda Syntech every 40000km and you will be fine. DO NOT add any additives, its bad for the car.
This statement came from honda!
Please send any ideas to Silvio@rogers.com
thank you
I thought I need to replace clogged fuel filter, but learned in my model there is none to replace.
Please help me analyze this puzzle, so the freaked-out wife can have her peace back. Thank you and merry xmas!
On my car (126,000miles), the posts can slop around in the cushion holes, allowing the radiator to bounce fore and aft by 2 or 3 mm. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a noticeable thump.
When I removed one of the cushions, I noted that the hole in it shows no wear, and is in perfect condition, so it hasn't been hogged out. When I bought a pair of new cushions from a dealer, they were just as large, and also allowed the fore-aft slop on acceleration and braking.
Is this the way they are supposed to be? Could someone take a look the next time they have the hood open. I would just construct tighter cushions myself, but worry that they might be too restrictive and break off the radiator top mounting posts.
Thanks.
view is shaky. I would like it to stay in place.
I'd like to know if it requires an adhesive to hold it? How did it come from the factory?
Anyone? :shades:
Mine has a bit of play too FWIW.
On the other hand, if all you need is an "overhaul", meaning replacing internal parts, re-machining the cylinder head and valves, but leaving the crankshaft stock size and not re-boring the cylinders, then it makes perfect sense to keep the engine you have.
The most rational approach is to disassemble the engine and "mic it" (measure all the critical parts) all out carefully and see what you have. Naturally this plan requires some pre-thought as to a backup plan. You also need to inspect it for cracks.
If you have to bore, and you have to re-machine the crankshaft and thus need oversize bearings and oversize pistons, that starts to get expensive.
If you're asking which way to bet *without* examining the old engine at all, and you want an engine to run another 200K, then I'd get a new short block installed. Without VTEC, that's about $2500 bucks + at least 20 hours labor.
So unless you go with a low miles used engine, you're looking at $5000 or so if a professional shop does a short block for you.
If you "overhaul" the engine yourself in your garage, and only need to send the head out for machining, and you don't have to touch the bores or the crankshaft--just rings and bearings and gaskets----then you'd get away a lot cheaper.
I suppose a shop could also do an overhaul for you for considerably less than $5000, since they wouldn't be boring or messing with the crank----but you know, when you open up an unknown engine, you have to be prepared for bad news.
So what do you do when the shop calls and says "okay, your engine needs everything, it's all in pieces, what do you want to do?"
What is your opinion of the prices I have been quoted? I really like the car and plan on keeeping it indefinitely. It is a Coupe, 4 cyl with MT and gets 33+mpg on fwy. 25 in town
She has been driving another car w/o airbags but its in sad shape so she will need to drive the Accord.
I have been unable to find anyone to do this.
Any suggesstions? I could use some help.
I purchased this 4dr Accord L model new in late 98 from a local dealer. I had some engine stalling issues early on, but this was after it came off fast idle and usually on cold winter mornings when, it would stumble and stall. After chasing this problem with the dealer for about 30-45 days, including changing out the computer module, a factory rep came to the dealership and raised hell with the service manager and staff there and did a little tune-up training claiming that they were not correctly setting the "base idle" properly. After he adjusted same, I encountered no further dying but it would still have a slight stumble at times if the weather was cold and just for the first few minutes after it came off of fast idle.
In late 2002 at around 63k miles on the engine, I would sometimes have difficulty with the ignition switch getting sort of stuck and the horn would not blow if the key was in the ignition.
I was told there was an electrical ground issue in the steering column and it cost me $557 to replace it. After that was done I had no further problems with the car until I started having some problems with the shifter sort of getting stuck when the car was parked or on a slope. The key would also be sort of sticky. I took the car in to be checked in Sept '07 with 106k miles on it and they replaced the ignition switch which had been a recall item. After that, the car ran fine until just recently.
At just about 120k miles, I started getting intermittant engine shut down while driving at speeds under 20-25mph and usually just slowing for traffic. It might happen once, then I could get the car started w/o any problems and it would drive fine for a couple of weeks and then it would do it again...one time, it died 4x on me in about a 2 hr period. I did some research on the Internet and found where this problem was plaguing a lot of Honda owners within the above model years.
I contacted a couple of local Honda specialty maintenance people, including the independant mechanic that did my regular service and they all seemed familiar with this problem as being electrical and not really engine related and most of them pointed to the faulty design or parts of the ignition switch. So, I contacted the local dealer again and told them what I had found out. I said that my car only had 14k miles on it since they did the ignition switch recall, plus it appeared that I may have also paid for an electrial problem in that steering column that I shouldn't have. The service manager saw my point and pulled the car in again for the ignition recall. He called me and said that they were able to duplicate the engine fail when giggling the switch and so they replaced it again at no cost to me. So this appears to be a reoccurring problem.
I just had the 120k engine service on this car, replacing the plugs, rotor and cap and now the car is running better than ever. So if any of you have this sudden dying of your 98-2002 Accord with this engine, you might see if you can get your dealer to to that ignition recall again. It's worth a try.
My car drives normally when taken out of the garage in the morning and its braking performance good. However, when I drive it for an extended duration without braking, (such as highway driving), the brake pedal becomes soft as rubber and I have to push it all the way down to the floor to make the brakes grip. However, the braking performance is normal. That is, the car stops within a reasonable distance once the brake grips.
This does not occur when I am in city driving, when I have to brake often and the brake feels as firm as ever and behaves normally.
I have checked the brake fluid level and it has remained well within the limits and I have not seen any oil drips on the garage floor ever.
Can any one help diagnose this situation?
Thanks!
Best way to locate an oil leak is putting the car on a lift.
As for the AC fix, make sure the compressor is not seized. If it IS seized, you may incur more expense than you think, since a seized compressor might have contaminated the entire system.
I recently replaced ignition switch myself (second time after 2002 recall), touched some wires under, wonder if it is a contacting problemm...
I have a 02 EX 4dr and boy oh boy, when i got it new took it to the dealer about 5 times after experiencing the problems on the road but "like always" the problem never occurred when it was brought to the dealer.
im at 78K and the issue is starting to reoccur.
Its driving me nuttssssssss!
i will call the dealer and inform them on what i am aware of.
1457 is a malfunction in the EVAP (Evaporative Emissions Control System) and has to be tested with a smoke machine for vacuum leaks (could also be a bad gas cap).
The fans don't come on. The drivers side fan will come on, but more often than not, you have to push the AC button to get it to come on. The passenger side fan doesn't come on at all it seems. I plugged it into the drivers side plug and it works, so I don't know why it's not coming on when plugged into it's own plug.
The top radiator hose gets hot, but the lower hose only gets warm. The dash guage sometimes goes from 3/4 to fully hot at idle. The problem is becoming more and more common as the months go by. Only thing buying me time for the moment are the cold temps. Please help.
Won't idle / Check Engine Light / stalls
This symptom started popping up at about 59,000 miles and 10 years of age. The idle became suddenly very rough and would even stall. It ran fine once over 20 MPH or so.
This is typical of an air leak in the intake some place that I used to experience with my Fords. I looked and looked, but could not find a cracked hose. The Ford hoses would crack and your idle would go bad. The other culprit is the IAC Idle Air Control valve. In my Fords it never went bad, I just cleaned it every couple of years. Looking for the obvious answer, I went looking for the IAC on the Accord. It is in between the throttle body and the intake and has cooling lines routed to it. It is also held in place by tamper proof 5 pointed star security bits. These I ordered from Amazon for $15. When I got the valve out, it was obvious this was the problem. A can of Gumout was needed to clean the oil and carbon build up that was blocking the valve from functioning normally. The part was $110, so I cleaned it up really well rather than replacing. It worked well and the car has been perfect since.
I had the timing belt done at 10 years at a local indy shop.
Just recently I replaced all 4 rotors and front calipers. The rotors and calipers are original. Front rotors had been machined once at the dealer years ago with prior pad replacement. When I went to replace pads recently, The caliper started to leak when I pushed the piston in. 2 rebuilt loaded Nissin calipers went on along with new rotors - rear got new pads and rotors - for $320. Flushed and bled the fluid, and the braked feel and act 100%. I am very happy.
This car looks and feels better than any bought new and kept 10 years or longer. My Fords were just as reliable and trouble free, but did not hold up cosmetic ally.
My 2006 EX-L V-6 is holding up very nicely with 60,000 miles. It just got 4 new rotors and pads and feels good as new - for $200. Just keeping up with oil, coolant and transmission fluid changes is enough.
Brakes pads and parts are cheap enought that I just replace and buy remanufactured rather than try and machine or rebuild. It is easier too.
So what can it be? The blower? The compressor? Trash?
Generally, it is when I hit the pedal the hardest - i.e. stop, then turn in front of cars to a side street. On a highway, the car seems to do fine on the highway and even locally - just that sometimes if I take a turn and hit the gas, it takes a split second to react, then surges, then fine. My mechanic said it may be a accelerator cable that is sticking.
Mrbill