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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    A friend's father owns a shop, and his and other shops often have one oil viscosity in the shop 10W-30, and they use this in any car that comes into the shop, and requires a oil change. It doesn't hurt to use it especially if it's only one time, but I tend to go with what the manufacturer recommends.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yeah, the manual states 5W-20, and on a temporary basis, 5W-30 to be replaced with 5W-20 at the next change.

    i think with tolerances what they are today, it's smart to stick to the recommended weight oil.

    if you live in a cold climate... i'd be cautious going with off-recommended weights.

    unscientifically, changing from a 5W-20 to a 10W-30 suggests it will take more time and engine effort for the cold oil to get to the moving parts of the engine on startup... this is the time when the most wear occurs right?
  • daylldayll Member Posts: 26
    I noticed while changing oil that the rubber boots on my 98 Accord (110,000 miles)struts have rotted away. Is this something that has to be rectified immediately or ? The ride is still good at this point. thanks - dayll
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I assume you are talking about the half shafts (the drive shafts going out to turn the front wheels).

    You need to get this fixed pretty fast, damage might already be done.....which will mean replacing the half shafts. The boots keep the grease in and the water out, which will ruin the bearings on the inside.

    You actually might be better off just having the half shafts replaced anyhow, and be done with it for another 100K miles.
  • daylldayll Member Posts: 26
    kiawah - thanks for such a prompt reply. I'll take it in today. Will the cost be astronomical if the half-shafts are replaced? dayll
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    confused, rubber boots on struts and on half-shafts / cv joints are two different things.

    if there are rubber boots on a strut (i can't remember), unless there's a sign of leaking or suspension bouncing, i'd keep driving with them.

    on the half-shaft or CV joint, personally, i wouldn't wait.
  • daylldayll Member Posts: 26
    Sorry - I meant half-shafts not struts. They are being "rebooted" right now. Thanks again for the info and assistance. - dayll
  • swillettsswilletts Member Posts: 1
    i have same problem,did you ever sort it out? and how?
  • niceguyniceguy Member Posts: 20
    Hello all,

    Hope someone can shed a light for me here :mad:

    I tơok my car to the dealer for transmission fluid change and wheel alignment this morning. When I got my car back, the SRS light went on. Can anyone tell me if the SRS light has anything to do with the work done ? and is there anyway that I can reset the SRS light ? I hate to spend more for the dealer.

    Thanks
  • miggymasemiggymase Member Posts: 6
    There is an extended warranty on it. Somethign with a sensor and the seatbelts. It happened to me and they replaced the seatbelt fastener and a sensor no-charge, good luck.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If you want to try it yourself, here's a link that may help. Good luck
    http://www.ozaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39

    If the light comes back on again, you need to get it checked out though. :(
  • niceguyniceguy Member Posts: 20
    Thanks elroy5 and miggymase for your suggestions. I just did a quick search and found a few recalls for the 2000 Accord model and wonder how come Honda did not notify me eventhough I'm the original owner. I'll bring the car back together with the recall lists from NHTSA Monday and hope they can fix it for me for free.

    Have a nice weekend all !
  • rossm1rossm1 Member Posts: 14
    Hi

    I have 02 accord
    My air condition makes noise
    I took off a cabin filters and notice a lot of samll papers
    (napkins) somehow got there, I tried to clean everything I see
    but is still makes noise like pece of paper got stuck on the fan, wich I can not see
    What can I do
    I do not see fan, how can I get to it???
    Thank you
    Ross
  • niceguyniceguy Member Posts: 20
    Update:

    Dealer has agreed to fix the problem for me for free. Apparently there was something wrong with what they called AN OCCUPANT POSITION DETECTION SYSTEM (OPDS). Anyway, if any of you has problem with the SRS light on like I do, you can refer to the link below for the recall and show it to the dealer to get it fix free.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/defect/results.cfm?action_number=PE05- 043&SearchType=QuickSearch&summary=true

    Cheers ! :)
  • alan30alan30 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Honda Accord with power windows. Tonight 3 of the windows would not go up. The driver`s side window goes up and down fine. When I press the controls for the other 3, there is nothing (no noise, no movement). I pulled, checked and reseated the fuses for these windows and one for the power window motor. No change.

    Any ideas on what I should check/do?

    Thanks, Alan :confuse:
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Does your 01 have a lockout switch for the power windows? The switch usually locks out all but the drivers window from functioning. Maybe the switch is acting up.

    Mrbill
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Mrbill is right, check the lock switch (the switch with the word "ON" printed on it, I think). Make sure it is unlocked first. If it is, play with it some, it may be that switch.
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    I will be replacing the pump soon as the whining noise has become pretty bad, but wanted to know whether it is a good idea to replace the hoses at the same time, considering the age of the car. Some vendors seem to recommend the use of a filter also, any thoughts as to whether it is really necessary?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Filter is a good idea. As for replacing the lines I guess that depends on a) how much they cost (the pressure side can be expensive on some cars) and b) if you can easily take them out and inspect them for cracking, kinks, etc.
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    I am more worried about the degradation of the hoses internally and any particles or pieces getting into the system - not sure whether the current pump problem at the relatively low mileage of 70K is because of that. The high pressure hose sells in the $70-$100 range, the return hose is not expensive. If the filter is not used by Honda, is there a need for it now, and will it cause more headaches than it is worth?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Filters are OEM on many cars. I'd say either get a filter or be sure to clean out the fluid every 30K or so with a turkey baster and replace it.

    Yeah I was thinking if the lines are off they can be cleaned and inspected. $100 isn't chickenfeed for a hose.

    I guess bottom line would be how hard it would be to replace the hoses at another time. If they are a real pain to get at, then maybe now's the time, but if it's just a matter of going on a lift and unscrewing two fittings, then if the hoses look good now, you might wait.

    On some cars that are prone to hose bursting I'd say do it but I'm not aware that your car is susceptible.
  • rogerziprogerzip Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 honda accord with 4 cyl. I recently had a failure of my fuel pressure regulator. This has been replaced. However highway fuel economy has dropped from 34 to 28 mpg. Car also feels a little sluggish. Honda dealer has not been able to diagnose problem. Have replaced fuel injectors,plugs,air filter and did a 120K check up. All to no avail. I get a intermittent check engine light that Honda can not find cause for? Any ideas as to what is going on here?
  • alvan1alvan1 Member Posts: 1
    I am coming up on 105,000 miles and have been advised by my dealer to get a new timing belt. Along with it he advises replacing the other main belts and the water pump. It's all going to cost about $850. Is that a reasonable price for the procedure? It sounds bloody expensive to me; I imagine there's quite a mark-up on those belts. I'd appreciate any input. Thanks!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    It's not the belt that cost so much, it's the labor to change it. $850 seems like a lot, but you don't want some half [non-permissible content removed] mechanic doing this kind of work. So you have to be careful who you pick to do the job. $650 is about as low as an experienced mechanic will go, but you may have to shop around to get that price. Then you have to make sure they are not charging less, because they are changing less parts. Some will charge less, but not change the water pump.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Maybe the Oxygen sensor?
  • jeneyjeney Member Posts: 9
    I checked my vin number and my Honda Accord EX 2001 is covered under the Honda lawsuit. My transmission shifts very roughly. I have 57,000 miles on the car. If I bring it to the dealer will they replace the transmission. Will it cost me anything - labor, parts, etc. Please let me know what you think
  • lletournlletourn Member Posts: 19
    If they replace the transmission under the extended warranty there will be no cost to you.

    My understanding is that it won't cost the dealer anything either since Honda reimburses them for recalls, so as long as they feel it qualifies you shouldn't have any problems.

    It seems like the only potential costs you could run into are if the issue isn't related to the recall/extended warranty or if the dealer attempts to charge you a fee to look at the issue. The dealer near me tries to pull this w/ me for all warrantied items (seat belts causing SRS light and transmission), but when I speak to a supervisor they waive it.

    Good luck.
  • nielsniels Member Posts: 2
    My 1998 Honda Accord EX V6 idles very low when it warms up, almost as if it will stall at any moment (it never does though). Also in neutral, the it will only go up to 4500 rpm and then run very rough. Check engine is also on. Any suggestions? :( Thanks!!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Go to Autozone (or Advance) and get them to retrieve the trouble code(s) for you (they do that for free). The code will give you a better idea where the problem is.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I would not take my car above 4,000 RPM before it got fully warmed up, for fear of damaging it. The roughness may be related to the fact that the engine is cold (if in fact it's cold when you are revving in neutral).

    Why are you revving in neutral again? :)
  • hondadriver21hondadriver21 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX V6 which I purchased 2 years ago (I am the second owner and I keep up regular maintenance). Presently, I have almost 95,000 miles on it.

    Today, almost all of the dash indicator lamps came on: malfunction indicator lamp (my mechanic told me that is due to the ERG recall, I've had problems with this for a while), the brake lamp, battery light, and door ajar light suddenly came on simultaneously and will not shut off. The car's engine also began making a loud grumbling/humming noise.

    Does anyone have any clue what is causing this? I have never heard of anything like this. THANK YOU for any help!
  • normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    I know this is probably too late, but there is a TSB on this issue: 01-031.

    The ECM/PCM can set a false P1149 code, which is the O2 sensor.

    I found this out after I bought and installed a new O2 sensor. The front one is quite easy to change, you might want to consider saving money by doing it yourself, if you end up doing it.
  • normkolnormkol Member Posts: 135
    Often a sign of a faulty alternator. Have it checked.
  • nielsniels Member Posts: 2
    The car was hot when I went up to 4000 RPM, I did it to see how it would respond. I also found out that it only has this (RPM) problem when the car is not in gear, in drive it goes up to normal rpm. Could have something to do with a fuel filter?
    I am going to Autozone to get them to pull the code.

    Thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hmm. Not having revved in neutral before (not particularly good for the car to do so), I can't say I know why it would do that. I don't know for sure, but it would seem to me a fuel filter wouldn't change in function in neutral versus drive.

    Going to autozone is likely your first and best choice.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    Has anybody had to replace any front end stuff on 02 accord. I have a thumping/clunking over bumps. Dealer has said it is lots of things Links, bushings, Upper ball joints, and Upper control arms. Car only has 60K. Any known issues on any of these areas.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Could be any one, or maybe even two of those things. I would guess either bushings or ball joints. But, unless you've been driving in death valley, I doubt they could all be bad. Maybe you need a second opinion.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    another possibility: strut / strut tower interface (strut is loose because of weld burrs). it's happened on ODYs, MDXs, I presume it can happen on Accords too.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    thanks. I'll keep an eye on it and do 2nd opinion. No unusual roads - fully paved. I was just wondering if there were any particular known issues in these areas. All my searches turned up negative so I suspect they were trying to pull a fast one.

    thanks
  • kaioteskaiotes Member Posts: 3
    I need to change some fluids and i would like to know the capacity of the following items. My car manual does not state the amount and i can't seem to locate this info, my mechanic and dealers all are giving me different numbers.

    I have a 98 accord v6

    Steering
    Brake
    AT transmission 7.6qt (pls confirm)
    Coolant 1.98 Gal (pls confirm)
  • thegodfatherthegodfather Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Accord LX, recently the battery, brake, and doors open lights all come on simultaneously, what on earth does this mean? The bulb in the rear window brake light is out, but I don't think that would cause all this to happen. Great car, 300k + and still runs like a champ!
  • bknibbsbknibbs Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Honda Accord LX that is having all sorts of electrical problems. Now as the temps are going up it has started to stall. It has been cool here in the northeast the past few days so it's been running ok, but today its hotter and it's stalling again. Any ideas?
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    Hi,
    On my 99 Accord (115K miles), the check engine light came on. Took it to a local Honda specialist and he checked teh code and told me that i need a new catalytic converter.
    The quote he gave me seems pretty high
    699.00 - Parts
    20.00 - Gaskets
    120.00 Labor
    Total: 839 + Tax

    Can someone please give me some idea regarding what is a reasonable cost for changing catalytic converter?

    also, is there anything i can try before replacing the part?

    Thanks,
  • el123el123 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Honda Accord, automatic trans., 140k miles. It recently started having trouble shifting. The D4 light began blinking and the check engine light turned on. I borrowed a diagnostic meter from an autoparts store to connect to the car. The meter detected two problems, PO700 and PO780 (both transmission-related). Finally, this is my question: does anyone know of someone who has had the same trouble and was able have their transmission repaired under the transmission settlement even though it is over the 100k miles?
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    Hi,
    As i mentioned in my earlier post, catalytic converter on my 99 v6 accord failed. I had done a timing belt, water pump etc job few months ago. I read that improper engine tuning can cause the catalytic converter to fail.
    Is it possible that the timing belt job has something to do with failure of my catalytic converter?
    Thanks in advance...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not unless the car was running like an absolute dog. Yeah, improper engine tuning is one thing, but a mis-aligned timing belt gives way more than a 'subtle hint" that you screwed up.
  • tylerwm94tylerwm94 Member Posts: 26
    I had the catalytic converter replaced on my 98 Accord 4 cylinder about a year ago for $620 + tax (which included a 10% discount from the place that did it -- not a dealer).
  • blufz1blufz1 Member Posts: 2,045
    When is the last time the transmission fluid was changed at a Honda dealer using Honda transmission fluid? The trans can be finicky and shifts best with Honda brand trans fluid.
  • activex111activex111 Member Posts: 41
    Thanks Mr_ShiftRight..
    My car was running fine after the timing belt job, but i did notice a drop in mileage after. Is it possible that the timing belt was running fine but the engine was out of tune and givingout richer exhuast?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sure...bad O2 sensor, things like that.
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