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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I gotcha. My mom says I'm too concerned with the small stuff. My driving isn't conducive to getting very accurate numbers. I don't drive more in town or on the freeway. I think I'm more 50/50, but on the freeway usually the engine is barely warm before I shut it down.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Does anyone know if it would be easy to replace a front bumper on an 03 LX Coupe I4 auto? Reason I ask is because somebody hit my car in the parking lot at work and cracked up the passenger side. My insurance will cover it, but that'll leave with the $500 deductible :cry: and I can't afford that. The parts aren't really all that expensive, but the labor is the killer.

    I got a couple estimates so far and one was $698 and the other $793. I want to see if I can do it myself or have a friend who may know body work do it, but I also don't want to screw anything else up.

    To put it in perspective the crack is about 1.5 feet long and there are softball sized holes along the lower edge of the bumper, could ice have been driven under the car to create that sort of damage when it was hit?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'm not sure how you'd do the paint/matching work yourself unless you're really skilled.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    That's what I thought. I'm just bummed about having to come up with the money to do it especially since I'm coming due for some maintenance pretty quick. :mad:

    Anyway, I know that the color on mine is about as common as booger green or earwax cold was in the 70's which is to say it's everywhere. I have a silver coupe and honestly every coupe I've seen of the generation save maybe 6 has been silver.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I hate to rub salt in the wound here, but silver can be pretty difficult to match. I think this is one you're gonna have to get fixed yourself. You don't know who hit your car?
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Absolutely no idea. I just walked out and saw the crack. I was mad. Oh well I guess thank god it's tax time and I should get a decent amout back.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'd poke around the parking lot and look for any damaged vehicles, maybe you can match paint colors?

    Not sure where you work - if its a shopping center type of place, its anyone's guess. As far as where I work, its the same people every day.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I work at Wal-Mart and I'm telling you most of the people that come in are some of the most ignorant people around. I'm telling you there idiots. I don't know if it's different anywhere else.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I've gotten a buggy in the side at Wal-Mart - made me so mad I could spit bullets.

    I've become a Target fan since then - more medians in their parking lot so you can park in an "end" parking spot, get half the chance at a door ding, and buggies are stopped from rolling all the way across because of the curbage there.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,064
    Mine is cracked too, and ~$650 seems to be what i recall the repair estimate was. I elected to just leave it along (the hole isn't that bad looking!) since my son was just getting his permit, and why fix it so he can just bump into something?

    You best bet might be to find a used one in a wrecking yard. I really is pretty simple to pop on and off, so if you could find one cheaper, it might be the way to go.

    Depending on what the damage is like, it is also possible to patch it. My body shop offers that, but on my car, the bumper was too deformed to just patch the hole.\

    So that, or silver duct tape?

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (mine)

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Silver duct tape, poor mans body shop. My brother had a fender held on with duct tape once. LOL. Anyway, the crack is at the very edge of the bumper and it's flopping around. I need to get it fixed. If you like it's almost a tear if plastic bumpers can be torn.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Trying to find one in a junk yard sounds like a good idea. I had my rear bumper replaced by a body shop, and they did a good job, but no one can match the paint perfectly. If you could find one that color in a junk yard it would probably match better than a new one painted by hand at a shop. I would look reeeal hard. Good luck
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Yeah silver's a dime a dozen. Unfortunately, I haven't found many junk yards that have vehicles as new as mine. Otherwise, the few that I have found don't have the part. Grr. Oh well. At some point I'm thinking about having the whole car painted as there are a couple other surface scratches and a dent in the hood that need to be done. However, all of that is very low on my priority list. Right now fixing the bumper is numero uno.

    Most of the junk yards around here have primarily 10 year old cars and older.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 701
    This is still an issue.... The last I checked (My wife drives this car usually), at idle speed, when in gear, the RPM is at 600.... And the vibration (again, this is a V6) is quite noticeable.....
  • parvizparviz Posts: 484
    Another option to consider is what we are doing for a friend of mine whose son damaged the front bumper of her 528. We bought the bumper on line, had it painted at a body shop (in Sacramento, if you live close by and need info) and then the son put it back on. This way you save on the labor of R&R but have it professionaly painted.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Have you checked the engine mounts? I think 600rpm is about right for the idle speed in gear.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Just one more little thing to consider and I just thought of it today. If you engage the hand/emergency/parking brake and let somebody else drive your car you should tell them about it. Just about 10 minutes ago I let my mom's friend drive the car, I've been starting to try and use the handbrake because a lot of what everybody has said makes sense, and she didn't even look to make sure that the handbrake wasn't engaged. Long story short she was trying to get out of the driveway and spinning the tires because the rear tires weren't moving. I guess if one person uses the car once in a while they won't think to check. I was scared because once I disengaged the brake she left and almost "front-ended someone."

    That's a little phrase I just made up for hitting the front end of a parked car.
  • f0rl0rnf0rl0rn Posts: 71
    If you lend your belongings to someone be prepared to pay the price for their mistakes.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I know that's true. I was simply stating that if you're going to do something, apply the handbrake, that not everybody does you should warn them. I never gave it a thought until today.
  • twildtwild Posts: 5
    I need to replace the accessory power socket on my 2004 Accord. I have the new socket but don't know how to remove the surrounding hardware??? Any have a diagram?? Thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Hope this helps
    image
  • twildtwild Posts: 5
    Thanks! This should solve my problem.
  • twildtwild Posts: 5
    Any diagram about removing the center console as it covers the other consoles I need to remove.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Any diagram about removing the center console as it covers the other consoles I need to remove.

    Still there? Still need it? If so, let me know, and I'll copy it for you.
  • I have an 03 accord 4cyl manual with about 42K miles on it. The past month I've noticed three things that are alarming me.

    1) my brakes make a slight grinding noise when applying them but it doesn't happen all the time. it seems to happen mostly after a rain or when there's a lot of moisture in the air. And it isn't a loud grind, it's very subtle and sounds almost more like a rubbing noise. it's very low-frequency as well. And it always goes away after a few minutes of driving the car. is it time for new pads? any other ideas what could be wrong?

    2) when it's cold out the starter takes a couple extra seconds to start. it always starts (at least up til this point) but in real cold temperatures (below freezing) it sounds like it's about to die right before it starts. what could this be?

    3) in that same cold weather, i notice that sometimes the acceleration is a little choppy in 1st and 2nd gear (mostly 1st). i do let the car warm up for at least a minute before i drive. any ideas what this could be?

    thanks!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    #1 - most likely pads, don't want to let it grind metal to metal or you'll ruin your rotors and have to have them replaced as well. Get it checked out.

    #2 - most likely your battery is at end of life. They normally last about 4 years. Take it to an autoparts chain (pepboys, autozone, etc), they do free battery and alternator load checks.

    #3 - not enough info, given engine performance could be a zillion things.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    1.) After rain, a thin layer of oxidation forms on the rotors, because of the moisture in the air. Braking for the first couple of times after the rain removes the oxidation, but is noisy in the process, making a rumbling/grinding noise. No problem. YOU DO NOT NEED NEW PADS until you hear the high pitched squeal coming from the brakes all the time when they are NOT applied. You'll know it when you hear it. Don't fret about the brakes, you do not need them replaced.

    2.) This is normal for most any car. I have a 2006 which takes longer to crank in cold weather. Any battery will have less charge in cold weather (by cold i mean Freezing or colder, typically). If it is WAY off from normal, you might get it looked at for free like Kiawah mentioned, but I ran into this the other day when the low was 17 degrees, and my car is much newer than yours.

    3.) This is normal as well, in every Honda we've ever had this has been the case. (2000 Odyssey, 1996 Accord, 2003 Accord, 2005 Accord, 2006 Accord). In fact, all of the symptons have applied to all of these vehicles, except the 1996 which seems immune from the oxidation on the brakes.

    To repeat, everything you've mentioned seems well within the range of normal operation. Also, you don't have to let your car warm up - drive moderately (keeping things under 3,000 RPM) until the car gets warm (check your temp gauge). This prevents excessive waste of fuel, and won't hurt anything at all. Just don't go redlining when the engine is cold.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 15,064
    If that is the original battery, you might want to invest in a new one. You pretty much got the expected life out of it.

    Honda puts a real weak battery in the Accord. Mine just turned 2 years old, and in 40 degree weather, it sounds like it is almost dead.

    Last oil change, it tested fine, but that was 416CCA (off of a rated 440cca). Most replacement ones are rated at 600-700, which certainly could explain why it is lethargic in cold weather.

    THe brakes do sound like oxidation being scraped off (I get a lot of grinding like that too, and my pads checked out at almost new thickness). You didn't mention miles, but most tire places will do a free check, or just get it done with the next tire rotation.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's) and 2007 Volvo S40 (mine)

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Have you guys ever listened to the engine starting on the 3.0L Accord vs. the 2.4L? It makes the 2.4L sound asthmatic and lethargic in comparison. The 3.0L cranks with rapid fires, almost machine-gun like. The 2.4L cranks with a slow coughing sound, not nearly as quick as my 2.2L 1996 does.

    I love my 2.4L, just thinking about some things that aren't quite pleasant about it (obviously I'm nitpicking to the nth degree here, just thinking out loud).
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The 3.0L will crank for a long time, if you don't let the fuel pump prime up. If I turn the key all the way from off to start position, without giving the fuel pump relay time to pressure the system, it can crank for a while. Honda dealerships will usually change the pressure regulator when someone brings the car in for this, but it will not completely resolve it. If I take my time turning the key, it will crank right up. It also depends on how long the car has been sitting. If the car has only been sitting for a short time, all the pressure is not lost. The Accord's 3.0L engine must be pretty easy to turn over though, because my battery was almost dead, and it would still start the engine. My old Toyota truck (also a V6) would crank forever before it would start, and actually burned up the starter's brushes after a couple years.
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